ferret

I wasn't aware that Subaru made a FWD vehicle later than 1996 ( ??? somewhere in the mid 90's ??? ). Thought in 1996 they were AWD ONLY. So you would have to swap the older 4EAT into a newer vehicle. Anything could be done, for given the time and cost.

Right from Subaru.com Site: ( By the way, Sensors including the Oxygen sensors, are covered by the 3 year / 36,000 miles Federal Emision Warrenty ). Below covers the Cat and ECU . Federal Specification Emissions Extended Defect Warranty Coverage: 8 Years / 80,000 Miles Some specific major emissions control components (catalytic converter, electronic emissions control unit and the onboard emissions diagnostic device) are covered by the Federal Emissions Defect Warranty for a period of 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever comes first. The complete list of parts covered under this warranty is included in your Subaru Warranty and Maintenance Booklet. That booklet also contains other important information about your Federal Specification Emissions Extended Defect Warranty including additional coverages, limitations, and your responsibilities under this warranty. Please read your booklet carefully. If you’re not sure about whether a specific failure on your Subaru is covered, your Subaru dealer will be able to inspect your vehicle and answer any questions you have.

IAC Idle Air Control. That which under control of the ECU, opens and closes an air bypass passage to maintain a set idle speed. Small foamy thing is a One way vacuum valve.

Some OBDII scan tools only display a code or 2 and then reset the Check engine light. What I refer to is a tool which allows you to view the 'freeze frame' data that was taken at the time the error code occurred. As well as displays stored codes ( codes which did set the check engine light but are not acting up right now ), or the engine 'readiness' cycles which may states now require to be set to good during an inspection. As well as current live display of more than 1 sensor that you can monitor as you drive to allow you to troubleshoot slow or intermittent sensors and signals. This to me is what is needed to fix many reoccurring check engine lights when changing the first thing called out doesn't help.

When I last had to purchase one of these, over 2 years ago, it was about $200 for the parts, and about the same from the upholstery shop. So it was about $400 to repair one seat. That was then, now.....and depending on the upholstery shop you choose....I'm certain it hasn't gotten any cheaper.

Subaru sells a 'repair' kit which is a new lower AND back heating element. Then an Upholstery shop to replace the elements, unless you are into 'hog ring' and hog ring pliers as well as sewing the element back into the seat cover. Much cheaper to get a used seat at a junkyard. The back and lower pads each have a thermostat as well. Shuts off at a preset temperature as so not to overheat and catch on fire. You can usually fell the thermostat right thru the cover at the rear of the seat bottom, or bottom of the seat back. Since everyone is shaped differently, some people can feel these all the time and complain about the lumps in the seat. The failures I have seen have not been the thermostat, but opens in the coils themselves from the flexing with the seat cover.

My own experiences with this code across many different vehicles ( not only Subarus ): 1. Look for exhaust leaks anywhere from the engine to the rear oxygen sensor. Many times I have found this to be the biggest cause. 2. Failed or failing Catalytic converter. Owners usually don't want to hear this, but unless there is a leak, or slow responding oxygen sensor ( front or rear ), the code is correct when it is set. If you reset this code without fixing anything, it will usually come back in a day...2.....week....next 2 weeks....The converter should be replaced. 3. Cheaper than the converter but usually not the cause, replacing the front, rear or both oxygen sensors. Without a code pointing directly at the sensor, or charting the sensor to prove it has a slow response, this is cheaper than replacing the converter, but in most of my experiences, it just puts off replacing the converter. I have seen converters last years and 150K + miles. But it seems the ones that were part of the 99 and newer vehicles are of a different substrate and don't seem to last as long. Somewhere in this time, car manufacturers had to lower emissions again and introduced a slightly different converter and oxygen sensors. Both don't appear to be a long lasting as in the past. My own experiences....and $.02. Take it for what it's worth. You are welcome to input with your own.

You got it already...Front O2 sensor. 01/02 Subarus are known for this, but only by sevice dept's who have tripped across it. They gave you the answer when they said no codes, but the from O2 sensor was not reading correctly. It intermittently thinks the engine is running too rich and cuts the fuel way back or even shuts off completely. That's why it doesn't set a code. Feels like you have a tank of bad gas. Usually fine at startup, but acts up after warmup. Another reason to have more than a code reader if you are a serious Do-It-Yourselfer mechanic.

I had a 90 LS wagon 5 sp that I bought NEW. In 1990, the LSi was not available. That was in 1991. Also mine had the power antenna. All the rest you mentioned was correct also. Mine also came witha VHS videotape in the glovebox that showed the owner how to check fluids and use the jack to change a tire. That's long gone also. The rear speakers were also mounted on the toop of the strut towers. Not the best sound I ever heard. I liked the 90 LS alloy wheels also. Only year they looked like that. Mine died in a rollover in 1996 in the NY thruway. My wife walked away with seatbeat abrasions. I do miss it. It gave me 162K miles without a problem. Edit: after reading thru that info, I remember the commercials Subaru ran for braking the endurance record with their NEW EJ22.

Subaru dealers still use the 'cap' type filter wrench. But on some Turbo boards they have recommended the following found at Napa stores.

No PCV in the WRX...it has a solenoid to control the crankcase vent flow depending on vacuum or boost in the intake manifold. Many people put oil 'catch cans' on the turbos to catch any oil before it gets into the inter cooler and coat the inside effectively making it less efficient.

Here's the spec on the original filter the EJ's used up til 2003 or so: Threads:M20x1.5 Type of Filter:Spin-on Anti-Drain Back Valve:No Height:2.95 Relief Valve P.S.I.:20-25 O.D.:3.15 Now heres the apec on the new smaller filter: Threads:M20x1.5 Type of Filter:Spin-on Anti-Drain Back Valve:Yes Height:2.93 Relief Valve P.S.I.:14-18 O.D.:2.69 Their specs USED to include filter area, and the newer smaller filter had MORE filter area in that smaller can. Don't ask me how, but it does.

Subaru filters were ( and may still be ) Purolator. But Walmarts OWN brand is made by Champion. Good filter especially at such a low price. Better than that Fram which you will pay more for. ( My opinion...I HAVE had 2 Frams fail on me.....never again ! )

Nice picture...Follow that same hose down to the rear motor block. Starting in 2002, on the USDM 2.5L, the PCV was placed on the other end of that hose, now screwing down into the block, just above the oil separator plate. Also note it is a different p/n since it now controls crankcase ventilation from the threaded to the hose side. Older Subaru's, even my older EA16, EA18 and EJ22's, were in the intake manifold and flow was from the hose side to the threaded side. As far as I have found, the newer ones are dealer only. If you use an older one on the newer motors, the check valve will close and there will be no ventilation and lots of blow-by. Also If I remember, they both have different thread sizes to prevent using the wrong one.

I agree with Eric, In the FSM it states after a front O2 replacement, the ECU should be reset either by the Subaru Select Monitor or ODBII generic device. It's easier to pull the battery lead for 15-20 minutes. Then start the car and let it idle for 15-20 minutes without driving. This will begin the new ECU learn. During this time you can reset the clock and your radio stations.

See Greg at Marin Subaru......He's an active vendor on a few other boards. Tell him one of the Subaru Forester guys suggested you call him. Maybe he'll raise the price instead of lowering it ( heh heh heh ) Or try Subiegal right here...She's in Washington State but ships all over the country.

Been discussed on other boards. 2009 will be the next Forester major Redo. That was either a photoshop or someone having fun.

I'll bet it's the front Thrust bearing, or front main shaft snout. I've only come across one of these, but unless you know someone who can machine this, it requires the front casing to be replaced. That is If this is the cause and YES it does make noise when the clutch in out and the front main shaft is spinning. The noise will get worse, and may contaminate the clutch itself and require a new flywheel and pressure plate. F&S in Roxbury Ct. refer to it on their website. I used to deal with them in the 80's and 90's. but lately they have become more expensive. http://www.fsautoparts.com/ From Monroe, I don't know of any local good mechanics around ( there may be some as I lived in Florida NY in the 80's and there were none then ). I would stay away from Feders or Kolb. I used to drive to Liberty ( Oradell NJ ) for parts and warranty work. But do my own for all else.

Did it come with an owners manual? Wheter it did or not, you can go to www.my.subaru.com and register your vehicle. There they will have any service data listed that was performed by the dealer. If you don't have a manual, the attached .pdf contains your service schedule. Also sending you a PM.

Nice picture. Keep it for future reference. 90 to 04 legacy/Outbacks are here. Impreza / OBS up to 05 are here also. As are 98-05 Foresters. It's either a 30K or 60K (miles that is ) replacement item depending on which maintenance schedule you choose, regular usage or severe usage. After that, they went to a tank filter, as on the WRX and Turbo's. That's a real pain to replace. And YES it is still a maintenance item.

Attached .pdf for EJ engines

Standard on Can and USDM 2.5L Automatic Foresters. Also on all Turbo Foresters. Not on the 5 speed Non-Turbo.

same place as every Subaru of this generation, on the left ( drivers ) strut tower. Held by a spring clamp. Do a search for replacement, been covered here many times.

EJ22 used in the Legacy/Outback. EJ22E used in the Impreza. Slight change to the pistons. EJ22G as described, bored out for limited production in the WRX ( about 450 world wide was the number I remember ). Don't remember what countries it was sold in as the WRX's I have seen have been the 2.0L.

2006 NA Forester is a MAP engine, so there is no chance of contamination there. The Turbo IS a MAF engine however. This has been discussed at length on other boards and the conclusion was that if you plan to keep the vehicle either a K&N or Amsoil filter is the way to go. Only for the cost savings, not for performance. N/A way to increase HP starts with allowing the exhaust to breath better. Either with a header and 2 1/2" exhaust, or a custom exhaust from a local custom shop. After that the cost to get add'l HP out of the N/A 2.5L gets expensive and can cost more than the Turbo from the start.