ferret

Did you just replace the Air Filter? If so, it's easy to knock off one of the hoses causing a vacuum leak which will act just as you describe. Look toward the rear of the throttle body for a loose black vacuum hose.

Here's 1 page from the FSM. Disregard if you don't have illuminated switches. As you can see +12 goes to both the front and rear switches. But the ground return only thru the front main switch. From the motor, thru the rear switch ( whether activated or not ) to the front main switch (whether activated or not ). So no matter which switch you attempt to use, the ground returns thru both switches. So either can cause the window not to operate.

Also when they diagnosed the bad head gaskets on the SOHC, What is the failure? Internal Coolant to Combustion chamber failure ( engine overheating ). This does happen but is more rare on the SOHC. Or external coolant leak, usually toward the rear of the head. Many of these can be fixed by adding the Subaru Coolant conditioner. Some really bad ones however do require the head gasket to be replaced if the conditioner doesn't stop the leaking or seeping. If your Aunt's car was involved in this recall, and has under 100K on it, Subaru will replace the head gaskets under the extended 100K warranty. Just more information for you to consider.

Being in Rochester at least you are near one of the largest Subaru Dealers in the US, Van Bortals in Victor. I've heard many good, and only a few bad things about them. Their parts dept, by the way, is excellent. Been by there a few times. I travel to Rochester every month or 2 on business. The people I see there have good things to say about Van Bortals. Lets see 2000 Forester, SOHC 2.5L, MAP no MAF and 2 cat's. The forward one has the front oxygen sensor ( A/F ratio sensor used for fuel trim ), and a rear cat with the rear oxygen sensor on it. This is the one that usually causes the P0420 Cat Efficiency not within spec. Also note the 2000-2002 Subaru's have Cats that are known to have a higher failure rate than the ones older or newer. Ask any parts dept which cats he orders the most of. Best of luck fixing it up. It should serve you well for many miles.

With a 5 sp manual, Subaru recommends the TEMP spare be put on the front. So if you have a flat in the rear, you have a tire to move as well as replace. That way if it is a smaller temp spare, it's on the 'open' differential and not on a possible LSD rear. WRX's and others with the LCCD front differential ( Torsen closed differential ) come with full size spares tires only.

If it's the one by Drinker St you can readily see from Rt.81, IT's De Naples. DeNaples Auto Parts 570-346-7673 Mill St Dunmore PA 18512 They have been there since I was a kid in the 50's / 60's. But a better place theses days is to go 35 - 40 miles further south to Harry's U pull it out in Hazelton or closer to NJ they are also in Allentown. Harry's U Pull It (610) 433-9901 1510 E Jonathan St Allentown, PA 18109

Preface this...Subaru's AWD systems are wonderful. Both different. Both require matched tire sizes and tire maintenance ( air pressure and rotation ). There are many out there driving Subaru's with non-functioning or damaged AWD systems and don't know it. (Center viscous coupling defective, Duty-C solenoids gummed up so they can't control clutch engagement pressures, Center couplings BAD from tire mismanagement) I've owned both. I prefer the manual, My wife the automatic. Manual starts in a 50/50 split. Driving it in the snow feels more like a RWD and handles like it. I can fishtail around corners if I give it a little more gas, but the front will take over. It is ALL mechanical and requires a small amount of wheel slippage to 'shear' the fluid. AND YES the transfer changes from 50/50. But no driveline bang or clunk like when the duty solenoid engages the rear on an automatic. Automatic starts in FWD mode. When it detects slippage, and YES a wheel here can turn for a second or 2 in the snow depending on speed, condition or just the turned steering wheel where the open differentials are only turning their input shafts back to the tranny at a fraction of the other side, then the TCM via input from the front and rear speed sensors, will pulse the duty solenoid to lockup the front and rear drive shafts up to a 50/50 split. Any more spin than that 1-2 second and your automatic is not AWD anymore. Also an early 90 Legacy manual stated you would stay locked in AWD until the vehicle speed fell below 7 mph or some low speed like that. I attached 2 .pdf file from the current service manuals. As you peruse the automatic one, it refers to VTD. This was for turbo-charged cars only. So your non-turbo Legacy or Outback does not work this way. 03._Center_Differential.Pdf 11._Awd_Transfer_System.Pdf

Well, that's where is was on MY02 and MY04. Since the 99 is like the 02, I thought it would be there also.

Small retangular plastic module with 3 wire plug. Just above brake pedal held by a single screw to the steering column housing.

If you don't want the driveshafts, separate the lower ball joint on each side and remove the driveshafts from the transmission after drifting out the 'roll' pin on each inner CV joint.

Symptoms of a cross threaded ( Easily done on the Gen 1 Foresters 98 - 02 ) or loose unsealed gas cap on the Forester are: When the gas gauge drops to about 3/4 tank from a full tank, the light comes on. Then after refilling the tank, the light remains on until the gauge once again falls below 3/4 tank, then goes off. Other errors will usually clear after 2 to 4 driving cycles without the same error being detected. In the Subaru also, the last error is SAVED even though the light is out on the OBDII equipped models ( 96 to current ). But it must be readout only with an OBDII tool.

I think they meant the Subaru Indiana plant. The one Subaru and Isuzu jointly own and operate. I don't remember when they started producing Legacy's there, but I do know by the 2nd generation, 1995, they were in production.

Best of luck, had a 90 legacy LS AWD wagon 5 speed . The Electro-Pnumatic suspension was on the Automatics only. Be glad you didn't get it. My neighbor back then had it on his 91 LS...and many many $$ in problems until in 96 they replaced it with standard struts.

They will be here to save for a few days MSA5T0125A27506.pdf MSA5T0125A27508.pdf

Rear .7 to 1.2mm or .028 to .047in

I had an 85 wagon ( non fuel injected ) but the same body and 1.8L guts. It has a distributor and 2 cam belts. Although it was very reliable, it required more service and the engine did leak oil. I also owned a 90 Legacy AWD wagon that I replaced that 85 with. It was the 2nd best car I ever owned. It was totaled in 1996 on the NY Thruway. My wife walked away without a scratch. At that time it had 186K miles on it, and other than 1 full set of brakes ( it was a 5 speed) and normal maintanence, I replaced the water pump and 1 front axle (failed CV joint). My choice would be the Legacy hands down.

I had Kumho Ecsta'a on my 02 Forester they were great. When the factory Geo's needed replacement on the 04 Forester, we replaced them with Kumho Solstice. They are every bit as good as the Ecsta's, in the snow and summer. They went on in Oct 05. I cover 7 states in the NE and they have been a great tire for a bargain price. P.S. I come up the Merritt/Wilber Cross a few times a month.

That was installed on the 1990 as part of a recall. It's supposed to last the lifetime of the vehicle. Service was still required on the internal filter in the tranny sump. As far as I remember, it was a Subaru only part. That was years ago however, so you might find it online.

Oh we would like to believe this, but the output of the knock sensor is used by the ECU to control timing. If you have one that's a little too sensitive, or an older engine with a few more metallic sounds than it had when it was new, the sensor reads these as 'knock' and the ECU does it's job of retarding the timing. On other forums this has caused hesitation and drivability problems without ever setting a code. Just more food for thought.......P.S......passed thru Dillsburg many times since I grew up in Pa......on the way to Gettysburg or better yet Hanover...to get UTZ cheap at their company store.

The PCV Valve is a one way check valve. It's purpose it to allow air to flow FROM the crankcase to the intake so the oil bypass fumes can be burned up and not released to the atmosphere. By being a valve it closes when there is pressure, not vacuum in the intake such as an engine backfire or misfire. At that time the intake can have a flame in it and the valve stops the flame from igniting the oil fumes in the crankcase thereby destroying the engine. Granted backfires are not as common on todays electronically controlled engines, but they do occur.

Some Automatics put the Transmission controller there.

p044X like P0442 when the gas cap is loose

If it had Electro-Pneumatic suspension, could have been the control unit. They were under the passenger seat on early Legacy's. They had a small hole toard the rear which thru which a LED would pulse out the error.

not really....completely under control of the ECU

SB7100 or SB7100s The later is a bit shorter and fits better, but speedbleeders catalog will suggest the first one.