ferret

Bingo...I just went to the garage and YES it is 303 Aerospace protectant.

Another vote for Areospace 3000 . A buddy of mine showed me this 4 or 5 yrs ago. He uses it on his Kayak and then started using it on his basic black dull Toyota bumpers. It is OUTSTANDING. Available at any outdoor sports shops. Here in northern NJ, I get it at EMS outdoor sports shops. Does a great job on the dashboard and interior also.

Here's a list of changes...as well as the previous yearly changes: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2007.html

That Forester was the Euro spec (IIRC) which made it the DOHC 2.0L N/A, not available to us in the USDM. The only 2.0L avail (again to my Subaru Hands on knowledge) is the DOHC Turbo closed deck engine. Same displacement, but different block, heads, intake, fuel delivery, etc, in other words a completely different engine than that one at LeMans. Thats the same 2.0L N/A available also to the Aussie's which due to it's lower torque, can get a Dual Range Tranny not available either to us in the USDM. If I am incorrect in any of the above statements, feel free to update or let us know differently. Sorry SID for hijacking this thread......let's get back to the reason for the thread...those marks are normal wear from the small amount of crankshaft creep. I wouldn't worry and go ahead with the rebuild as long as the machine shop gave the rest of the engine halves the Golden Go Ahead.

90-96 have proven to be the most reliable engine Subaru ever built. They broke endurance records with them back in 1991. The current models and 2.5 have not done that. Starting in 97, the 2.2 underwent it's first major upgrade to squeeze a little more HP out of it but more so to change valves and timing to help meet stricter emissions. These changes resulted in a higher failure rate of the valve train as well as making the engine an 'interference' type making maintenance more important than ever. In 99 they did away with the redesigned 2.2L heads and used the 'new' 2.5L SOHC head design as well as internal changes (thrust bearing) and engine/transmission mtg changes. These all lead to an engine that meets the stricter specs and can take additional torque and HP, but the reliability has never meet the original EJ design set by the 2.2L.

Regarding the thrust bearing, ONLY the 1999 model 2.2L have the rear (5th position) thrust bearing. These were also the models built with the SOHC 2.5L type heads. I look at the 1999 2.2L as a smaller displacement 2.5L since it is more like the 2.5L SOHC than the previous 2.2L. IMHO, the earlier 2.2L (90-96) were the bulletproof ones, more so than the 97-98 'improvements' or the 99 25th anniversary.

Vehicle Dynamic Control......Helps prevent skidding and improve control in adverse conditions. Follow this url, then click on the AWD Technology grey link on the left side and choose VDC for AWD system. Subaru explains it well here. http://www.subaru.com/shop/overview.jsp?model=OUTBACK&trim=30_R_VDC_LIMITED_WAGON

Older...early 60's vintage automatics had a rear pump to allow push starting since starters in the 40's 50's could be unreliable. The Subaru 4EAT only has a front pump. Push starting, like towing, could damage severely this type of transmission as there will also be No cooling or lubrication of the inner gears and bearing races without that front pump pushing fluid thru the transmission.

AHH, I see in your 1st post a TCM...so you have an Automatic. It could be as easy an a poor connection on the ECU ( signal wire goes to Instrument cluster then from that same pin the signal goes to the ECU, So since the speedo is working, the ECU connection may be making to make a good contact. I would try reseating the ECU connectors. This will set a P1507. 2nd, it may be the Neutral switch...Not only do they use this for activating the starter relay, but they also use it to tell the ECU when the car is in park or neutral ( no engine load ). This will set the P1507. The others, I would 1st check the accellerator cable, a pinched cable or one not returning to idle can cause P0500 or P1540.

Manual (5sp) or Automatic (4EAT)?

Anytime I have to remove a steering wheel or do any work around it, it doesn't matter the manufacturer, I disconnect the battery, and go for a cup of coffee...1/2 hr or so later, I begin.

MY79, 82 and 85 all had the E-brake lockup the front disks. Starting with MY90 Legacy LS AWD wagon and newer models, they now activate either the rear drum brakes or small shoes in the center of the rear disks.

I have an 04 Forester and 3 03 Foresters are my direct neighbors. Where we live in NJ we do get ice on the cars many times through the winter and all 4 of us haven't had any problems. Yeah I hear you though, if the remote doesn't work and that 1 lock is frozen or otherwise unusable, you may be out of luck. If any power door locks fail, you can always unlock them from the inside, the tailgate is slightly different. You have to be agile enought ot crawl into the rear with the seats down and remove a filler plug to get to the unlock lever. That's documented in your owner's manual. But the point here is you must already have access to the 'inside' of the vehicle.

JF1 - Passenger Vehicle S - Subaru Brand Line F - Wagon 6 - 2500cc AWD 3 - L trim 5 - Passenger vehicle with manual seat belts and SRS X - check digit to insure vin is valid Y - year.....this shows 2000 H - fulltime AWD 4EAT automatic 731667 - build sequence number (serial number) Good way to tell, look under the hood. 1998 was the ONLY US year the Forester came with a DOHC.

Not US spec (USDM). All were SOHC. In other parts of the world they had 2.0L DOHC AND Turbo Foresters since 1997.

Try running it without the recirc on (Fresh air setting) and spray some Lysol or equivalant aerosol that kills mold/bacteria into the fresh air vent in front of the windshield to kill off the mold/bacteria built up. My 90 Legacy was the only car I had to do this on. My 82 or 85 didn't do it, neither do my 02 or 04 Forester.

Does it have the Short Shifter? If it does, these were dealer/port of entry added instead of factory, so it's possible a tech/mechanic forgot to torque that rear shifter bushing. It's not the easiest to get to. Access to it stinks. There are aftermarket bushings (Kartboy) which stiffen (tighten) the shifter. I've replaced these and know how tight that area is. Anyhow...Good Catch.......Enjoy your Subaru.....I have...owned 7 of them, all new, all 5 speeds, since 1978.

On the Forester, this is all in the switch assy. There is NO separate module. Also the L has a set delay, the S model it's adjustable. So there are 2 different part numbers. If you have a L model, you can spend the extra few dollars and install the S model wiper switch assy. It will give you the variable delay option instead of the fixed delay. Simple to replace, lower the steering wheel (lowest tilt position), remove the stalk assy covers (2 or 3 screws from the bottom). Take the top & bottom apart (they are clipped together and sometimes need a little persuasion to separate them). Then unplug the wiper switch and remove the 2 screws holding it in place. Done it a few times....maybe take you 15 mins tops the 1st time you do it.

Never thought of it that way GUILTY 68 bug...70 bug...71 411....73 411...all used 4-5 yrs later....all needed contant attention....but flat 4 YES.....replaced thet 73 411 with a 78 DL FWD and never looked back...been in a Subaru since.

True statement about the welds. On EVERY vehicle we have owned since 1980 (Saab 900T at that time), The welds were the point of failure !! Other than an accident damaging the exhaust, the mufflers and pipes have survived well, but the welds especially by the flange or spring loaded movable joints were our weak points. End of my $.02

99 to current Forester is 105K miles.

Here's a nice writeup right out of the Subaru Shop Manual for the 5sp.

Here is what F5 supplies: License plate light Tail light LH Tail light RH Trailer connector Front clearance light LH Front clearance light RH I might start by looking at the trailer wiring connector in the wheel well ( If you don't have a trailer hookup). It might be pinched or shorting. Also when my buddy put his rear 'spoiler' on his 2001 forester, he drilled a hole right thru the rear harness up high in the tailgate. So if you have that spoiler, another place to look. Also you might try unplugging the rear tailgate since you have 2 extra parking (finisher lights as Subaru calls them) on the tailgate. That can rule them out. Your light switch supplies power to F5, so if that were a problem a different fuse would be blowing.

Air Assist Injector Valve is right in the front of the engine, in front and to the left of the ignition coil. Mounted in the intake manifold. 2 hoses on it and an electrical connector. It's purpose is under certain load and rpm's the ECU signals it to open to add additional air to the Fuel Injectors to add air and alter the spray pattern (make it finer). Usually the failure is the valve itself or there was a tip back in 2002 which stated a front oxygen sensor CAN set this code if it is marginally out of spec. From Subaru's Warrenty position, Both the Air Assist Injection Valve AND the Oxygen Sensor are covered ONLY by the 3/36 warrenty.

Fuse #2 in the Main Fusebox under the hood by the battery. Provides power to: Clock Combination meter Compass mirror Luggage room light Radio Room light Security control module Spot light Trailer connector