ferret

1992 had a speedometer cable, and the speed sensor was part of the speedometer in the dashboard and yes IIFC all models had it as it's part of the ECU and the 4EATX uses the signal as well.

The 3.0 chain is designed to last the life of the engine according to Subaru. There are really 2 chains under the casing cover.

Working on cars for over 45 yrs here are my observations, (sorry if any of this is a restatement, but are my views): Chains do stretch, are noisy, need lubrication, cost more and are not as precise on timing. Also as stated were part of the oiling gallies to keep them properly lubricated. Newer vehicles, especially OHC, brought to the world a longer reach for that timing chain, and long chains had keepers or tensioners added which had to be much heavier and heftier to control a larger moving mass. Long chains, when at speed, also shiver, shake and squirm more leading to more wear and tear. Belts have a lower mass, are more easily tensioned, keep timing more precise (especially needed for todays emissions). Also can go up to 100K these days without normal maintainence. I remember doing a lot of Chevy's, Pontiac's and Ford's timing chains with a lot less than 100K on the Odometer. Either they broke, stretched and jumped a tooth, or as pointed out had a nylon coated timing gear which shattered and the chain lost all drive timing capabilities. I now look at Motorcycles and remember the chains on bikes on the highway and watching the chains shake and squirm (and require lubrication). The new ones with belt are so quiet....and less lost to belt squirm or vibration. End of MY $.02...

Being I grew up in W-B and my 1st Subaru (a 79 DL 2 dr FWD) was from Minooka Motors, is that the dealer you are referring to?

When you first start turning a 2 wire regulator, it's output is nothing. You MUST provide a small amount of voltage to the exciter circuit. That comes from 12v thru the Light in the dash. Once 'excited' or charging, that circuit goes to 12v. So the dash light has 12v on each side and is not illuminated. However when the regulator fails, that side continues to draw current and keeps the bulb illuminated to indicate a charging failure. Only once have I seen a regulator short and the bulb was out and the regulator was toast.

You bypass is exactly why the light is initially used. It 'excites' the voltage regulator. That's why without a bulb, a 2 wire alternator doesn't put out voltage. Now is the bulb in your dashboard the correct type? If it is too small amperage, it comes on, but will not start the regulator charging (Excite it).

John, the 2.5L DOHC is all interference....valve to valve..and piston to valve. Belt Maintenance on any interference engine can be catastrophic if the belt snaps at high rpm's. Doesn't matter what the valve hits, another valve or piston, the cylinder looks like a grenade went off inside, and the motor is trash. I have read a few who broke at low RPM, and got away with only a belt replacement, but the 2 I saw, and Emily from CCR can attest to, they do severe damage at speed.

In the 96 model year, the 2.2L was unchanged. For the 97 model year is when they did the next phase of the 2.2L which included different piston design and solid lifters, then another head change in the 99 model year. In the 99 model year, the heads were similiar to the 2.5L heads.

I don't know what that digit does, maybe since the 2.5L was available, that was the reason for the change. As far as the 2.2 Not being an interference engine, Starting with the 97 Model year, the 2.2L Became an interference engine, due to the addition of Solid Lifters. So ALL 97 and on EJ 4 cylinder engines ARE interference.

Look in your fuse box for the left or drivers side fuse. It's probably blown. This should be in the Fusebox under the hood by the battery.

Try this URL since you said it's in the Timing Belt Area: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EngineNoiseInfo.pdf

Picture is worth a thousand words: As per below...I was resizing it while you responded. This board only accepts 640x480

Subaru.com list both the 96/97 2.5L at 60k. Not until 98 does the 2.5L go to 105K. Endwrench on page 2 says all 2.5L can go to 105K http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Conflicting Information even from Subaru sources. I would suggest using the Owners Manual. I know the 96 2.5L is different from the 97 and the 97 looks the same as the 98-99. I would say the Alldata would be correct, but the Subaru sites do differ.

96-97 2.5L is 60K Starting in 98 to current the 2.5L went to 105K

Only place the 2003 had XS on the body was the tailgate. You ran a Carfax. I would just check to insure the rear wasn't repaired anyway. It could have been damaged where a police report or insurance wasn't involved in the repair. Another way to tell: 2003 X had dark gray rough bumpers 2003XS bumpers were steel gray smooth (sounds like what you have) 2003XS premium had body colored bumpers In any Case, Best of luck....I have an 04 XS premium 5 speed. my 7th Subaru.

Check your fuses. This is the symptom when a fuse is blown. Subaru provides 12V thru a seperate fuse to the "common'" point of each light element. Then they ground either the low or high to turn on that element. When the fuse for instance, for the passenger light is open and you have the LOW beam on. The 12V for the drivers side goes thru the LOW beam element to ground and that side lights. HOWEVER, there is also 12V going thru the High beam element to a common point on the HIGH/LOW dimmer switch. From there it travels thru the High beam element of the passenger side, thru the common point (not at 12V since the fuse is blown) thru the low beam to ground. Hence the passenger side appears on dim. The HIGH beam indicator is also across the passenger side High beam element wiring, so it is ALWAYS lit. sometimes a little brighter than others. Common problem in Subaru's since they apply power to their headlights in this manner.

go to the CCR site. They are teamed up with an Axle Reman company. Emily can help www.CCRengines.com Moderator edit: CCR is not associated with this company. The axle company is a friend that works next door to CCR and specializes only in Subaru axles. His website is here: http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/index.html He will have his own URL soon.

There was a recall on the VERY EARLY 05 Legacy/Outback. The side curtain airbags were installed backwards and would have deployed upward instead of down toward the windows. If I remember correctly it was less than 2000 units. Recall should be on the NTSB site. Make: SUBARU Model: LEGACY Type: ANY Year: 2005 Recall Number: 04V274000 Summary: THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN AIR BAGS IN CERTAIN VEHICLES INVOLVED IN THIS CAMPAIGN MAY NOT FULLY DEPLOY RAPIDLY ENOUGH WHEN ACTIVATED IN A SIDE IMPACT COLLISION. DURING A SIDE IMPACT TEST CONDUCTED BY THE INSURANCE INSTITUTE FOR HIGHWAY SAFETY (IIHS), THE TEST RESULTS INDICATED THAT THERE WAS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE IIHS TEST RESULTS AND THE RESULT OF SIDE IMPACT TESTS CONDUCTED BY FHI. Consequence: THIS MAY RESULT IN FAILURE TO PROVIDE THE INTENDED HEAD PROTECTION, INCREASING THE RISK OF INJURY TO A SEAT OCCUPANT. Remedy: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE CURTAIN AIR BAG MODULES. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JUNE 11, 2004. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT SUBARU AT 1-800-782-2783. . Notes: SUBARU RECALL NO. WWR02. CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATIONS AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236). http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/RecallSearch.cfm

Obsidian Black Pearl......been on Forester's since 05. Before that it was Java Black Pearl, Gold flakes in the paint instead of bluish. I had 90 Legacy LS was Java Black.

Plain ole' dino will always work. Only problem is cold weather shifting. Last change I put in Redline Ultralight shockproof. Mustard colored. I also tried the MT90 with grinding results. Same with Mobil-1. So I went back to dino. That was in MY02 Forester. Now in MY04, back in Sept.05 at the 30K interval, I put in the ultralight. Shifts easily ALL the time...Warm...Cold....and no gear crunching.... End of my $.02

No need for a flush. When replacing just clean the magnet on the drain plug. You should notice a buildup up dark gray material on the magnet. As long as it's just a molasses type buildup, you should be fine. It you find any larger pieces of metal there, I would look further. But if you have no problems and are just changing it for maintainence, then you should be fine. Manual trannys don't have the small pressure passages and valves which are so critical to an automatic to it's operation. ALSO cover the Y pipe just below the drain. It will get the used gear oil on it, and stink for quite a while.

Are you using a Hayes Manual? if so they are wrong on the torque spec for the front caps. It's 7.2 ft lbs. It is 14.5 on the center and rear. but they are tighten on a sequence to prevent shearing them off. See attached .pdf

Spoiler was an option on the WRX, Came with the Premium package and STI. So if it has a Sunroof, the spoiler should have been there and I might suspect it was in an accident and not replaced. (and wonder what else was shortchanged) I would be cautious of any high performance car with low mileage. It may be a good bargain, but I would still be wary.

I disagree, about the ABS light coming on AFTER driving. It depends on the failing component. A simple wheel sensor, either open or shorted, will fail the diagnostics run at startup and keep the ABS light on and the ABS from functioning. Read out the code instead of guessing.

2 Attachments below. Page 5 of the 1st tells you how to readout the ABS codes by attaching a terminal to the test connector. Then how to clear the ABS memory. The 2nd one is the Diagnostic Trouble codes.