ferret

Friendly Jack, you are correct, I didn't notice the 010 I wrote. The correct pump does end in 110. As I stated, in the past few years, these have been used interchangeably on 2.2L and 2.5L. I haven't seen and problems with either. And I do not believe, this leads to a bad head gasket. The Head Gasket problem, IMO, was just the design and materials available when the engine was produced. As I stated in another thread, I've done more other Mfgr's than Subaru's, so this is a shortcoming of aluminum heads and other engine parts dealing with different expansion rates. Fords, GM's, Mopars, Honda's the list goes on. And each group of owners think their vehicles are the only Mfgr failing. Also that recall was for US production 2.5L and ONLY for the factory installed pump. I don't remember seeing a stock action for shelf parts. Also Note, Subaru allowed dealers a total of 2.1 hrs for pump replacement, including reusing the original timing belt. Here's the question to ask your dealer, then why after a list price of under $200 for a water pump and belt, do you charge so much for 2.1 hrs labor?

Just a note....the Original 97 Parts listed the 010 (last 3 digits) water pump as the 'high velocity' pump for the 2.5L DOHC. The 007 was the standard pump on the 2.2L. (so your pop knows his stuff !) They are interchangable and both can bolt on. I have seen the std (007) pump on both 2.5L DOHC and SOHC. The Subaru parts still calls for the 010 on the DOHC. As time went on, aftermarket vendors used 1 pump to supply both needs. Some dealers do this also, but there are those who will not sell you an 007 pump for a DOHC.

95 2.2L in any US Spec Subaru is non-interference.

Reason for the SHOUTING.......recommended maintenance on the timing belt should NOT be ignored. I am not aware of any motors today with a timing belt that are not interference. So take the scheduled maintenance seriously. Your vehicle, your money. Like an old commercial, "pay me now, or pay me later".

FYI, This comes up alot: ALL 2.5L ARE Interference, doesn't matter if it's a DOHC or SOHC ALL 4 Cyl DOHC ARE Interference ALL 4 Cyl 97 and newer are interference. This was the year the 2.2 went to Solid Lifers. Which makes it a fact, ALL US Spec Subaru 4 cyl 97 or newer are interference engines.

Luigi, I would pull the drivers front side of the timing cover and check the tensioner. The early 90's had a tensioner pulley and a seperate tensioner plunger against it. It would sound just like a rod knock. just like this. I use a piece of heater hose to my ear and with the other to the vehicle, like a Dr's stethescope, to listen to where the noise is coming from. A defective Cam tensioner sounds just like a rod knock. The odd thing here is you get it during accelleration AND decelleration. Usually a rod knock goes away during decelleration. (most times that is). If it is a rod bearing, the entire engine has to come apart (seperate the engine halves). In that case, I might look into a rebuilt, or used engine. My $.02

Just had something similar on a 96 Caravan. After trying many parts, the PCM (Mopars ECU) was the fix. 2 weeks later problem reoccurred. A mopar mechanic I see in my son's scout troop told me the COIL was blowing the PCM. It's resistance was lowered (possibly a few wires internally shorted making the resistance lower and drawing more current from the PCM and eventually overheating and blowing the driver transistor in the PCM). He said it was a common problem and when they replace the PCM, they also do the coil at the same time. I did put the original coil back in. SOO it was off for another PCM and this time a coil......$$$$ later, Caravan still running. Point of story, did you put the original coil back in as I did on that Caravan? Maybe you have a similar problem. End of my experiences and $.02

Here's a .pdf file on how to remove and take it apart. A little more than what you asked for, but it's all one section:

What Sensor? The keyless remote is a small module on the 2001/2002 mounted in dashboard just above the foglight / cruise switches. It has an internal antenna with an average range of about 50 feet. The remotes have a small flat round battery and not only do the batteries go dead, they become weak or are susceptible to poor connections. I clean the contacts each time I replace a battery.

Having had 5 speeds in all my Subaru's for 28 yrs, I have always taken the car out of gear and coasted up to Stop signs, red lights etc with no Ill effects. As far as coasting in an Automatic, The only difference I see in the above statement between towing and coasting, is coasting with the engine running has the transmission front pump moving ATF thru the transmission thereby lubricating and cooling gears, clutches and assemblies. But I can't say if it will do any harm. On the other hand, towing usually doesn't involve the motor running, hence miminal or no lubrication and no cooling.

Blitz, When I talked to the Rep over a year ago, the Ultra-light was weighted at 75-90. That's the weight that Subaru recommends so that's why I chose the Ultra-light yellow over the regular shockproof Blue. I don't remember it's suggested equivalent weight was, but it was heavier than the Ultra-light.

I have tried a number of tranny fluids over the past 28 yrs in my Subarus. Dino ALWAYS works. My only complaint is being in the north, winter cold shifting is difficult at first startup. I tried the synthetics also, to try to make winter cold shifting easier but they usually ended up with shifting crunching. So far I have come across only 1 that shifts EASILY when cold AND does not cause any synco-smashing. That is Redline Ultralight Shockproof. Yellow mustard colored. But after a year in MY04 Forester 5sp, I can tell you, it's as good as dino as far as no shifting crunch AND easy easy shifting in the cold. I know what their site states about using it in transmissions, but if you talk to their Reps, you get a different answer. My opinion, experience and $.02

I doubt that this is the cause of your no start condition, but it may have to do with the conditon you had previous to shutting the engine off. This is simply the ECU is not detecting a signal from the TCM. It is a straight wire connection. So there is either a bad contact on the ECU or TCM, OR broken wire between. The diagram shows it from pin 16 of the ECU to pin 13 of the TCM. It is used to detect engine torque by the TCM to allow a smooth shift or vary the shift point by xx%.

Subaru's only use bank 1. Bank 2 would be for a V6 or V8 with a Catalytic converter and front and rear oxygen sensor on each side. Subaru's have the converter and Oxygen sensors after the Y pipe, hence only 1 bank of sensors. Scanners are set up for generic vehicles. As an example, there may be a MAP sensor you don't have a reading on because you have a MAF, or vice versa. Having grown up in PA....(other side in Wilkes-Barre)......GO STEELER's

Here is a single page showing the screws and clip to be removed. After all the screws are out, just pull straight out toward the seat to release the assy from the hidden clip.

If it is a Forester 98-02, it would be Fuse 18. It also controls: AT shift lock control module Back-up light switch (MT) Cruise control main switch Cruise control module Daytime running light control module Daytime running light relay Hi-beam relay Inhibitor switch (AT) Keyless entry control module Security control module Wiper deicer relay Wiper deicer timer So of you have a 5 Speed L model, without cruise and without DRL (high beam relay in only on Forester with DRL), you might not notice anything else wrong.

Biggest Subaru Junkyard...dealt with them long before the internet (since 1983). They're in Roxbury , Ct. Just east of Danbury on I-84. Right on their Homepage you will see the fix: http://www.fsautoparts.com/

No Neons/PT Cruisers that I service. BUT our immediate neighbor had a 97 2.4L Caravan. That engine was Replaced 2 times in the 4 years they owned it. All under warrenty. Needless to say, they since replaced that van. That left a real bad impression on me for that engine. I have read about those 2.4L failures on Mopar BB's, but I offer information from my experiences.

Just FYI and more information. I'm a neighborhood mechanic, and since we moved into our current home (10 yrs now), I've only done 1 subaru headgasket. Remember I'm in a small town and neighborhood, but have a good cross section of vehicles. The MOST I've done have been 6 mopar 4 cylinders (2.2 and 2.5), 2 GM V6's, 2 Fords and 3 Honda's. The WORST were those Fords. Too much SHRAPNEL on the engine to remove before getting to the motor itself. So I don't have figures from Subaru, but in my small patch, there are other manufacturers out there with a much higher rate of failure. Seems aluminium heads and rates of expansion have lent themselves to need a gasket more capable of 'stretching' with the head / block relationship. The latest MLS (multi-layer-steel) gaskets look like they have stepped up to that challange. Also I have been a loyal Subau owner for 28 yrs, starting with my 78 DL FWD, and they have not been without their other problems. MY85 with dual cam belt problems, stretching w/o an automatic tensioner, carb problems( $450 carb net cost back in 86 ), duty solenoids on those carbs to control air mixture, Electro-pneumatic suspensions, etc. So Subaru has had their fill of other problems. But for me, they have satisfied my needs for 28 yrs, even with their own 'nits'. End of MY $.02

This is the Rear O2 sensor....back by the tranny tailshaft. I had it on MY02. Subaru wouldn;t cover it at 39K. They said sensors were only covered up to 36K. I remember about $150 in 03 for that sensor. Hope it's cheaper for you by now.

Try this Endwrench article. See if the pictures and description help: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf

Should be under the hood, mounted with a spring clamp to the driver's side strut tower. After the fuel pressure bleeds off, less than 5 minutes to replace. Reuse the rubber insulator or mounting cushion.

I think you have all PCV hoses hooked to an intake vacuum which would do give you the condition you have. Oil all in the intake. Still could be the Oil rings. I have seen compression good on all cylinders and 1 cracked oil ring causing very high consumption. Remember this is their job. Here's a quick crankcase ventilation overview: Fresh air > Filter it (subaru takes fresh air after the air filter) > into valve covers (usually into both covers) > purges crankcase of fumes > exit at top rear of block just above oil seperator plate > into intake thru PCV valve to be burned with the fuel. Now to the exceptions....Since there is engine vacuum, that lower pressure will keep the flow as described above. However at Wide Open Throttle, vacuum at the intake is low or non-existant. So they put a Y here to allow flow either way into the intake or airbox. Without fresh air in the crankcase, the pressure builds, and forces oil out anywhere it can, backward thru the PCV system into the intake hose (as is the case with a stuck closed PCV valve), or give you blowby on the rings. PCV stuck open....all works well.....unless you have an engine backfire...Thats when the PCV valve is a lifesaver. With a mixture of fresh air and oil fumes, a spark or flame coming in thru the PCV line is disasterous.....saw the remains of that once back in 67 or 68.

Follow directions in attachments:

Don't know year or model you have, but I was just at 1st Subaru parts.com and listed under body / hood / release cable, they list the assy for $16.24 for a 1997 Legacy/Outback. You also have to supply them with the interior color when you order it. Try there.