ferret

As the owner of a recently acquired 2001 Outback Base I bought as a mechanics special, then rebuilt the 2.5L, CatCon, struts, brakes, 2 calipers, rotors and sway bar links and bushings. All total paid $1000 for the car, $1200 for parts and labor was,,,,,,, ME. Here's what else I would look for ( knowing you have the H6 and possibly VDC ) : Look for rust... seems common on certain areas of these bodies, Rear wheel wells, Open the rear doors and look at the lower rear of the door frame for rust. That was another $1000 for the rust in the rear. I didn't want our daughter to have all that water coming the the rear inside well and causing MORE rust damage. A local guy did a great job cutting out the rust and welding in new steel. I can tell the lines are not as crisp as they should be, but if you were not looking , you would never know. He did a lot of work for a grand. There WAS a Recall for the Rear Subframe on these in the RUST BELT states. 2000 - 2002 IIRC, If they did the recall, they coated the subframe, but some STILL rusted. I would bring a wrench or small hammer and make certain it's still SORT OF intact. Checkout the front driveshafts. They may need new boots. My total $3200.....purchase, repair and bodywork. ... would I do it again....... YES... this is my 10th Subaru and I know the EJ25 well enough to be comfortable around it. Just more things to check and food for thought.

Here's the one I put on our 01 Outback about a year ago. Fit just like the original. Comes out of Canada with a 5 year warranty. It included Gaskets and the spring bolts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2005-Subaru-Outback-H4-2-5L-Direct-Fit-Catalytic-Converter-and-Gaskets-/282406562508?fits=Make%3ASubaru&vxp=mtr&hash=item41c0be2acc

So long as it works, I would let it be. The clutch will WEAR over time and the gap increase. But this is right out of the FSM: Check the clearance of entire circumference around the drive plate and pulley. Specification: 0.3 — 0.6 mm (0.0118 — 0.0236 in)

Subaru Released a TSB about failed A/C compressor clutches: Item Code: 10-84-16R Title: New A/C Compressor / Clutch Assembly This bulletin announces the availability of a new Air Conditioning compressor / clutch assembly to address customer concerns of the system not operating. Electrical windings located inside the clutch assembly have been changed to eliminate the condition. The service procedure will involve replacement of the A/C compressor and clutch as a complete assembly. Information contained in any technical document found on the STIS web site should only be used as reference material for highly trained automotive technicians. Only automotive technicians have the training and the special tools/equipment to repair Subaru vehicles. 10-84-16 10-84-16R

Few things come to mind reading this thread, so I will add my experiences. Could solve your problem or give you more to check into. You mentioned replacing the rear differential AND you have an H6, so I would be certain you have one with the proper gear ratio. IF not, this can cause a lot of different issues I have seen. IF the ratio was CLOSE, the car was drive-able, but above 25 mph or so, the trans went crazy trying to engage AWD and cause strange stuttering from tires scrubbing. This was obvious knowing the rear was just replaced, and checking the numbers to find the WRONG gear ratio. Also my 2 experiences replacing STAKED IN U JOINTS were NOT good ones ( 98 Forester Auto, and 04 Forester 5 speed ). Both times I had a local shop TEST and Balance the shafts, but each had vibrations starting about 45 mph and got progressively worse. I finally replaced them with used ones with lower mileage and from cars that were not crashed too badly as to damage the center drive shaft. My experiences and thoughts...... good luck..... just bought and fixed a 2001 outback 2.5L for our daughter in Pittsburgh last summer, She loves it.

From PINNED Top of the forum ENDWRENCH articles. Pg 6 of the following pdf has a picture and the paragraph has the teeth count. You can always MARK UP your timing belt at the proper tooth intervals. EJ25D is a DOHC. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/dohctbelt.pdf

I never purchase an extended warranty, and if I did never needed it. You have PLENTY of time to even think about it, You don't need to do it at purchase time, but anytime during the normal warranty and sometimes beyond. I still receive notices from Subaru to purchase an extended warranty on MY14 Impreza which turned 3 on Jan 2, 2017 and 62K miles. As far as the DI engine, the BRZ has had that on the FA20 engine from the beginning. And the Turbo FB20 also. So this is not new to Subaru. MY90 and 96 Legacy wagons were both built in Japan. MY01 Outback ( bought last year for daughter ) and the 04 legacy I owned for a short time were Lafayette built, This is what I refer to when I said I could NOT tell the difference build or quality wise from either plant of manufacture,

I have owned 10 Subaru's since 1979. Most were made in Japan. 2 were not. Other than the VIN not starting with JF2 but with 4S3 , I couldn't tell the difference. YES they were DIFFERENT venicles, but most had a version of the EA engine , many EA25's and either 5 speed or 4EAT. Still could not tell the difference. Reliability and Dependability........ still couldn't tell the difference. Good luck with the new 17 Impreza on the Global Platform. I feel certain you also will not see a difference in Reliability and Dependability .

I thought of that when I first saw this thread, but IIRC, the 03 does not have an EGR. None I ever saw did. The 04 Forester brought it back... the electronic Mitsubishi one.

You must pick the RIGHT exhaust setup for your Outback. EXCLUDING the 2 different ones for the H6 model, the 2.5L H4 can have one of 3. ( Graphic Above looks like H6 due to Muffler and resonator chamber on the side of it ) First is the 48 state. Similar to what Subaru did for YEARS. Front Y pipe, dual Cats, Spring Donut, Center pipe, Muffler. The Front Y and Dual Cats here are pretty much interchangeable. When we bought our 2001 last year had to replace the Y pipe and Dual cats, The ones I purchased fit a dozen or so Subarus from that period. Second was NY State. This used pipes as shown in the graphic above. 2 front O2 sensors, bank 1 and bank 2, and 1 rear sensor. Third was California, Also used pipes as in Graphic above, Different Cats due to Calif law, NOW 2 front O2 sensors, bank 1 and bank 2, and 2 rear sensors in the pipe just behind the front cats Again Bank 1 and bank 2. I have seen ALL THREE configurations here in NJ, with used cars sold in so many states anymore, you could have ANY of these. If you change from one exhaust type to another , you will have to replace wiring harnesses AND ECU..

I agree completely about the Oil, Any conventional oil causes havoc on these. Synthetic is a MUST. The oil passages are as small as a needle on many of these. In any case, here's a description right out of the FSM, and correctly identified as the passenger side ( US models that is ) and the UPPER valve, Intake for cyl 1 & 3. DTC P000A A CAMSHAFT POSITION SLOW RESPONSE (BANK 1) 1. OUTLINE OF DIAGNOSIS Detect the AVCS system malfunction. Judge NG when the amount of intake AVCS actual timing advance does not approach to the amount of AVCS target timing advance. REMEMBER, this is just the CONTROL for the advance. The advance is really done by allowing the oil pressure into the front of the intake cam pulley. Then inside the pulley the oil pressure causes the pulley to change position relative from the chained sprocket to the attached cam shaft. So the valve may be allowing the oil to pass, but the pulley may not be advancing fast enough.

Since this is a 5 speed, I would suspect the Neutral Switch. All the things you described can be caused by that. Here's a link to the Forester board where I wrote it up years ago: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/neutral-switch-78655/ COULD also be the EGR. It's an electronic one on yours also. Here's another thread I wrote up. Posted described his problem in thread and I posted reply and link in 2nd answer: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/intermittent-rough-running-424289/

Also, 2000 Outback does NOT have an EGR, the 04 Forester did, at least the 04 5speed I owned did, So you may have to get a plug for the port on the rear of the one head. That's the easy way to go. It's when you NEED and EGR port and your doner engine doesn't have one that causes a problem.

Call your dealer and get the ECU flashed. This is a known 'Crank NO Start' problem with the 2012 - 2015 Impreza. Has to do with a sensor the ECU detects as in 'error' when it is not, so it immediately shuts off the injectors. Mine was covered by the warranty, here's all the service reciept stated: Reprogramming, Engine Control ModuleFound link to the TSB title: http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/engine-drivetrain/53450-tsb-11-155-15-released-reprogramming-file-extended-engine-cranking.html

Don't overlook the driveshaft. I mean what Subaru refers to as the center driveshaft. It could be out of balance, as lost a weight, or the front or rear universal joint could be defective. The joint at the front of the shaft ( transmission rear ) is usually the culprit. IT's difficult to see and diagnose.

As far as the rotor being TIGHT or NOT TURNING AFTER you tighten the Lug Nuts, I have had this on MANY MANY aftermarket rotors. The problem is NOT with the parking brake at this time, but with the small RIM of the parking brake hub extending TOO FAR beyond the rear of the hub. As you tighten the lugs, this rim now squeezes against the backing plate to the point it will not turn. So what I have had to do MANY TIMES is get out my grinder and grind down the rear edge of that hub on the rear of the NEW rotor. If you look at the new rotor from the rear from the edge, you will see it does protrude. As to how much to grind off, some took just a little, others I had to remove quite a it,.

I would suggest that,, but I am not certain the 90-94 had one. I AM certain starting in 95 it was there on the 5 speed. But it WOULD give these symptoms, IF your trans has one. If it does, it will look just like the backup light switch mounted on the drivers side of the transmission.

Probably a worn A/C clutch. You can check and adjust the gap, but here's a post I made a few years back: reply #11 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/98733-2003-legacy-h6-intermittent-ac-issue/?p=832091

You never stated, but if it's a 5 speed, could be the 'neutral switch' on the side of the transmission. If it thinks it's ALWAYS in a gear, the ECU will not control the idle. I documented how and what the switch does years ago over on the Forester Board: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/neutral-switch-78655/#post870591

I would suspect the Neutral Switch as I described in this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158305-error-code-p1101-neutral-switch-circuit/?do=findComment&comment=1322085

Instead of retyping in this forum, here's an answer I posted over on the Forester Board back in 2010: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/low-idle-stuttering-erratic-jerking-various-rpms-76450/index3.html#post887065

I know you were not near it, or didn't mention it in your notes, but a stuck open EGR can cause rough idle and misfire on all cylinders. I would also recheck the IAC, hoses and connection. When operating properly, it will either 'hum' or 'buzz' at an idle as it opens and closes the reed valve quickly. And you were right by the engine TEMP sensors ( next to the IAC ), I would check that they are properly attached, Hope Crank sensor was proper number.... I have had parts people give me a CAM sensor, On some they look alike, but have different characteristics . Still own a 98S, daughter uses it for college..... continues to be a great little AWD wagon. Owes us nothing if it dies tomorrow, but can't afford to replace it right now.

This is a switch on the side of the manual transmission, like the backup light switch. Dealer only item, pretty inexpensive and easy to change. High enough on the trans that you will not leak any fluid. Purpose, , to tell the ECU when you are in Neutral, so either you are decelerating or the ECU must control the Idle. Example, you are driving WITHOUT your foot on the gas, Car in gear, The ECU doesn't have to control the idle. You shift into neutral, NOW the ECU MUST control the idle. It's detected as a fault when the switch is bad ... you are IN GEAR, without foot on the gas, but the ECU DOESN'T KNOW IT, so the ECU now tries to control the idle AND IT CAN'T. So it thinks it's at a HIGH UNCONTROLLABLE IDLE. Older manuals usually call out IAC , TPS and other Idle controls for this error.

Also look at the drivers side ( left ) cam sprocket AND Crank pulley.. Especially the REAR. If the doner was a JDM motor or from elsewhere, they may have used different timing triggers along with a different ECU. Be certain they are the same. If not correct, YES you will have spark, but at the wrong time, or incorrect sequence.

Check the main/center driveshaft universal joints. Expecially the one at the tailshaft of the transmission. That front universal is difficult to see when in the car, but you should be able to check it to see if it's worn.