ferret

Phase I 2.5L was DOHC non turbo. These have a higher than normal failure of headgasket failure between a coolant passage and cylinder. This causes high coolant pressure under load conditions (coolant gets pushed out the overflow bottle) and the engine overheats. The current multilayer replacement headgasket seems to have addressed the problem and should be considered a long term fix. Phase II is a SOHC non turbo. These also had a smaller percentage of headgasket failures. But here the leak was external and causes coolant loss and puddles under the vehicle. Here Subaru tested and released a coolant conditioner that should be added at each coolant replacement. This recall covers all 99 to mid-year 03 2.5L SOHC. In the MY03 it's determined by VIN and/or build date.

P1507 says the ECU applied current to the IAC (Idle Air Control valve) and the RPM did NOT change. Either you have a vacuum leak, hose off, loose intake manifold, loose throttle body etc. Maybe spray some brake kleen, wd-40 etc around intake and listen for change in idle to help locate the leak. OR since you replaced the IAC, maybe one of the air passages coming to it or going after the throttle plate are clogged since your idle is so low. Or maybe the IAC valve is sticking and not moving. Could also be that the IAC has a bad connection or broken wire either from the Main Relay (supplies +12V) or from the IAC to the ECU. I don't know what any further code pulls would reveal unless there is another code accompanying the P1507. Good Luck finding problem.

Subaru, as we all know, is a Japanese automobile. And being such uses Metric sizes. The Differential drain/refill plugs are no different. They are 13mm square drive. We in the US use a 1/2" drive to remove them. 1/2"=12.7mm. This is why a 1/2" drive feels a little loose. On the job we use a combination of metric and ise spec fasteners. When it comes to a 13mm or 1/2" nut/bolt, most guys these days carry and have been using their metric sets. But when they need to hold the other side and that's the same size, they often force the 1/2" wrench or socket on the 13mm nut/bolt. Needless to say they are that close. I've replace the differential oil many times. Opening the top first, (If you can't get that open, how are you going to refill it). Then open the bottom and let it drain into a pan. The plugs are 2 different sizes and the lower one has a magnet on it. Then clean the plugs and I use a non-adheasive sealer on the threads (I use locktite red non-adhesive sealer). Then replace the lower plug and torque it to 32 ft/lbs. Fill the upper hole until it drips. Then replace the upper plug. All done without jacking up and on a level surface as not to overfill. Total time 30 minutes or less. End of my $.02.

It's called the front window Gusset. The triangle shaped piece toward the front pf the window where the outside mirror attaches. This is held by either 2 ot 3 bolts. you see them after you remove the inner door panel. Common replacement for 'wind noise' at highway speeds. As they wear, the rubber seal on the outside of the glass leaves crack. Just large enough to sound like the window is open a little bit at highway speed and cause a nuisance. Most Subaru dealer stock this item.

Replace the water pump then get the proper bolt. The threaded boss hole is part of the water pump casting. This is more common than people realize.

Very Easy, here's a .pdf file. You can do it without removing the center exhaust section as they describe:

Depends on which DTC you have: P0181 means temp sensor out of range, replace the sensor P0182 is open circuit, connector or wiring open to sensor, or sensor itself open or out of spec. P0182 is sensor circuit high, ECU not putting out the 10V to the sensor, wire shorted to ground, or once again sensor itself with resistance too low. If it happens only at lower temps, I would lean toward the sensor itself being out of spec. My $.02

Being a neighborhood mechanic, I help people out with this problem a lot. A buddy of mine with a body shop, takes the lights out, wet sands them and coats them with clear coat. That seems to work. But I can't do that so I have 2 alternatives: Meguires PlasticX clear plastic cleaner. Most good auto store have it. Works very well, but does require a few ounces of 'elbow grease' mixed in. Here's a url with the product just so you know what it is......... http://www.autobarn.net/meplclplclpo.html Or if that doesn't work, I give them a chance for new headlights. The following is the cheapest place I've found. And they have been very good every one I've ordered. This url takes you directly to the Legacy/Outback headlight. About $124 a piece. http://www.autolightwarehouse.com/legacy95-97.html Hope this helps......By the way...Ford headlights are the worst to cleanup. End of my $.02

OB99W, you can either email Jamie (Subiegal on this board) for a price, or go to Liberty Subaru (here in Oradell NJ). Russ there is excellent also. Either Call or email them. Both have websites if you do a search. Been dealing with Liberty since my 1982 GL. Either one will give you a great price and service. As for the rusted bolt........"snap"......douse it with some liquid wrench or PB Blaster to help work it loose. These are small bolts and snap easily. (ask me how I know, been there with drilling and easyouts). In either case, enjoy your Subie, and the nice area around Ithica. Been there many times.

The 99 motor was an Anniversary edition of the 2.2L. So Subaru at the time put a 'special' motor in these. The block is basically a 2.2L block with the year to year improvements since it's introduction in the 1990 Legacy. They then used the phase II , 2.5L Single Overhead Cam heads. These are 4 valves per cylinder as the previous 2.2L, but at a more acute (sharper) angle to the piston head. This allows more complete fuel/air mixture and decreases the emissions. However, this is also what makes this an Interference Engine. If the timing belt fails, A piston can come to top dead center when a valve is left open. The result is bent valves, possible valve stems damages (head is trash), and with the angle of the valve, the edge acts like a chisel edge and cracks or shatters the piston. Hence in a very few revolutions, the engine is destroyed. Bearing this in mind, it's also a very good engine design elsewise. So long as you do the required maintanence, you should get many years of good service from these. The 2.2L didn't exhibit the head gasket problems the 2.5L has. They may be on the recall list for the sealant, but I haven't seen the 2.2L leak externally. As of 2004, I'm not aware of any manufacturer that now has a non-interference engine. I know there may be some I'm not aware of or have come across, but Timing Belt Service has now become a MUST and so have the parts that go with it, water pumps, pulleys, tensioners etc.

23 = Left Front ABS sensor high (open circuit). Unplug the sensor and check to see that there is a resistance reading of 1K to 1.5K. If incorrect, replace. Since this is a startup diagnostic failure, I would suspect the sensor, or a connector, or damaged wiring back to the ABS module. If it were encountered when moving then the following may apply also: If the resistance was correct, then check the Gap to the tone wheel should be .3mm -.8mm. Also check the tone wheel for damage Hope you find your problem....

I've had this one since 1998, when Bonnie had the BR1 version(BR stands for Bonnie Rodman who researched, builds and keeps up that site). At that time it was $59 postage paid. I have used it extensively and can highly recommend it for any OBDII vehicle. The software supports all 4 protocols for FREE. At $99 it's still a steal. Used it on Subarus, Toyotas, Mopars, Fords, BMWs, GMs.....always been good to me...Best $59 tool I bought in years...and got my $$$ worth out of it since. Have an old IBM thinkpad...486 version and use it with a Cigarette adapter right in the car. Only thing I use that old laptop for these days. Track sensors (up to 4) on a large display as I drive and test a vehicle. Makes diagnosing a bad O2 sensor or MAF much easier than just guessing. Plus it does all the other good stuff like looking at the Freeze frame date when an error occurred, which Driving cycles are completed and reseting the Ck engine light. Far better than just a 'code' reader.......end of my $.02

Here's the repair .pdf from the Service Manual

Just a standard plug, maybe a dealer would have one, or just about any EJ (18, 22 or 25) would have a plug here. If you have access to any old junkers. Maybe even an old 'oil drain' plug might work.

1st picture looks like the motor was from an automatic. The automatic Foresters come with an Oil cooler. It's a finned cooler which uses engine coolant. The cooler mounts between the block and filter. It has a coolant hose attached to that 1st picture on the block, the other side goes to an extra connection on the gooseneck where the thermostat is. In other words, when you have the oil cooler, your gooseneck is different. A hose and tube run across the bottom front of the engine to the Oil Cooler, then exit there and enter the block where you see the nipple. If you are not going to use it, just install a plug in the block and either a cap over the extra fitting on the gooseneck or use a gooseneck without the extra fitting.

I also beg to differ...I have drive both extensivly and agree whole hardly with AllTalk. Just go to www.Subaru.com and click on the AWD flash in the lower left. Then click on 'Whats the Difference'. The Manual tranny is Continuous, The 4EAT auto is 'Active'. It also explains the other VTC...VTD and DCCD used on more expensive models. My wife prefers the Automatic tranny (nothing to do...but an occasional 'clunk' as the duty solenoid kicks in). I prefer the Manual so I have control and some fun in the snow.

Dave, year , model, 1.8L, 2.2L, 2.5L ???

I am not aware if your 02 is a DOHC or SOHC. The DOHC is capable of bending a valve if the cams are rotated in the wrong direction when the belt is off. The valves are at such an acute angle and so close, when one opens, if the other comes open, they hit one another. Turning the cam in the wrong direction at this time can then damage the valve seat, or worse, bend it. As well as hitting the piston crown. The SOHC doesn't have this problem. And turning the cams (left or right) and the crankshaft to line up the timing marks will not cause a problem. The SOHC is capable of self destuction when running at speed and the belt breaks. The momentium of the pistons against the valve 'float' can cause the valve to hit the head of the piston. Once again the valve angle is acute and the edge of the valve can strike the piston, damaging it like a chisel and bending the valve. Hope this info helps and points you in the right direction. The SOHC replacement should be no different than your older 2.2L (except the tensioner is different).

Be SURE all the vacuum hoses are on. There is one toward the Throttle Body easily knocked off when you change the Air Cleaner or service near rhe read of the engine.

About mid MY02 production, Subaru changed the bearing and the seals used on the Forester. The Legacy used stronger roller bearings which subaru parts dealers would sell you to replace the earlier Forester bearings. After removing the trunions, take them to a local machine shop. They will remove and press the new bearings in. If you attempt this, don't ever hammer the bearing in or out. you can damage the trunion or new bearing. Here's the info and proceedure as posted on EndWrench: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf

I vote for rear bearing also. The one's I've heard sound like a steel caster rolling across a cement floor. And they do get very loud with speed. Also the trunion (housing they are pressed into) gets much too hot to touch. Just try to feel them after a long run. The good side will be noticably cooler than the defective side. My $.02

Not all OBDII readers are the same. There are 4 different protocols. Some readers supply only 1 when you purchase, then you need to purchase the additional software to support the others. Some readers support 3 of the 4, others all 4 for free. They are: VPW (GM Vehicles), PWM ( ford), ISO-14230 (many BMW's) and ISO-9141 (Chrysler, Japanese, Korean, many other Europeans. Subaru OBDII uses ISO-9141. By 2007 All vehicles will be CAN Bus supported. Completely different form OBDI (Manufacturer specific analyzing tools) or OBDII. All CAN Bus MUST follow a single protocol framework. So then a CAN reader will work on ALL Can supported vehicles. Some US vehicles are already CAN Bus. They started in 2004.

Sounds like the air assist injector valve, if it is the same as the 01/02. It is controlled by the ECM to allow air to the injectors at low speed to atomize the fuel at a better rate. See if the .pdf below fits your missing sensor:

I did this from time to time with MY02 Forester. No gas flows thru the injectors until the ECM receives a pulse from the crank / cam sensor. I never had a problem. On a hill, I just turned the key to on, rolled down in 3rd and released the clutch slowly. Started easily every time. Since then we moved and I have done it also in MY04 Forester, but due to flatter terrain around our home, not as frequently. But I assure you, I have still done it on MY04. I expect it saves the starter and solenoid contacts. No probelms....No adverse effects.

Did you replace the MAF sensor? If I remember correctly, the early 2.2's had a Different MAF for the automatic vs the manual. The ECU will be expecting the proper MAF. Just a thought as I read this thread.