ferret

4) Unplugging the O2 sensor WILL set a code. Reset it by disconnecting the battery for 15 mins or longer. Open loop mode is when there is no feedback to control mixture for emissions. Usually a vehicle default is to run rich. I did it when the car was really acting up, pulled over, shut it off, then unplugged the sensor. The Ck Eng light will immediately come on, but you can drive away and the bucking is gone. 6, IAC is Idle air Control. Once you have the throttle open, this is out of the picture. Your 02 Forester has a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. It can cause a no start, no run, but doesn't usually cause the intermittent problems seen with a contaminated MAF sensor strip. The TPS (Throttle position Sensor) can cause this, but when I have seen them do it, Subaru's usually set a code. (Mopar 4 bangers of the 80's and 90's rarely did however. And GM and Ford's are just as difficult to troubleshoot)

Couldn't find the other thread I replied to....must have been too long ago. I had this on MY02 Forester, My neighbor on his 01 Outback. Both were fornt O2 sensors. Ran great from startup....then 1/2 to an hr later, it acted like bad gas, or shutting the ignition off. Both cars were under warrenty. His was flatbedded to the dealer and ran great, until the next day. No codes, nothing pointed to the O2 sensor, until I unplugged it and ran the engine in 'open loop' mode. Granted that set a code, but both ran great. We both had the same dealer, and both front O2 sensors were replaced. Trouble gone.

For 4 yrs now I have use version 1 of the scanner described below: http://www.obddiagnostics.com/ I paid $45 us for it. Now it's into version 3 and up to $96 us post paid. I hook it to a laptop I have plugged into the lighter outlet so I can even track sensors as the vehicle is driven. Mapping an O2 sensor helps show when you may have a slow one that doesn't set a CEL light. It reads all (except newer CAN BUS). ISO9141 (Mopar, European and Japanese) , Ford and GM. I have used it many times on many vehicles over the last 4 yrs. Software is updated right at their site. Best $45 I spent on getting an insight into the sensors and what they think the engine is doing at any given time. My $.02

Cory, It goes to the OBDII connector pin 10 (connector B40) and to the Subsru Select Monitior connector B79 pin 12. Used for diagnostice tester.

I have the wiring diagram for the Forester. I don't see any reference to SST or GSM .....Can you tell me what pin from the ECU connector it's from?

97 If I remember correctly......here's a URL to Subaru p/n's. Good reference. Pages thru other parts to get to Timing Belts. http://endwrench.com/oepropdf/maintenanceparts.pdf?PHPSESSID=0c7f073583cd8643e62d17abf77b19eb

go to page 9 of the following gates url, it shows the 99 has a different p/n from the 97/98. It may not be the bible, but I use it as a starting reference. http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=TBR05.pdf&folder=brochure Also try calling Liberty Subaru in Oradell NJ. Russ there has been there over 25 yrs, very knowlegable and helpful. 201-261-0900..ask for Russ.

Material it's made from....your older had an interval of 60K...newer ones are 105K. Also newer ones, using the newer style heads and hydraulic tensioner, are a different p/n. I haven't laid them side by side, but I suspect one is longer than the other. If you don't want to pay Subaru prices, Gates and Napa also sell these replacements. Here are 2 URL's on Ebay....1st is an Aution, 2nd is a full kit with Idlers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Timing-Belt-1996-2005-2-2-2-5-Liter-Engines_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8003270417QQtcZphoto http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-Impreza-Forester-Timing-Belt-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8003013047QQtcZphoto P.S....grew up the NE Pa....before Montauge was there......Enjoy the Pocono's and the outdoors....

On my 78DL and 82GL, I used every other pad you could mention. Starting with my 85GL 4WD, 90 Legacy LSAWD, 02 Forester (and yet to do an 04 Forester), I have gone to the dealer, got the pad 'set' (includes the necessary shims and hardware to stop the 'squeeling'), and have never looked back. Can tell you there are cheaper, and other opinions out there, but for me the OEM's are a good buy. Replace them, no noises, problems until the next replacement. (my $.02 is up)

Sorry, not on this model. This is a simple circuit with 2 switches and 1 bulb. Handbrake switch and low fluid reed switch. No diodes, connecting circuits or 3rd switch, like GM used, to the proportioning valve. On later models with DRL, there is a single diode added to isolate and input to the DRL module. This is the trigger used to turn off DRL's when the handbrake is engaged.

Well I can't attach the 2nd pdf which describes how it all works, seems I exceeded my attachment quota.....maybe this will work PS I also live in the Garden State...love it in winter when someone else gets cold pumping gas....

The Valve in the filler neck on 98-2000 Subaru's have been a source of just this problem. The proper mechanic, who has seen it, will be able to diagnose it. If you have any mechanical ability, I have attached 2 files which describe it's function. If it IS the problem, the filler assy comes out and the valve alone can be replaced.

Open the brake fluid, add a little and push the 'bladder' back into the cap. Had this on my 82GL, 85GL wagon, 90 Legacy wagon and 02 Forester. The Bladder goes down as the fluid fills the caliper when the pads wear. The bladder keeps the air out of the brake system. Only problem is as the fluid gets low, it also pushes down the float which trips the reed switch and illuminates the Brake light on the dash board. This is a Subaru anamolie.....and one they haven't done anything about in over 20 yrs of my experience with them.

Latest EndWrench is on the Web, Sent to subscribers in July. Link below has a great writeup on the MAF, and some troubleshooting ideas. If you have a vehicle, not only a Subaru, with a MAF, this can be of assistance when troubleshooting a suspect MAF problem. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EWMAFAug05.pdf Also have a writeup on Pre-OBDII (85-95) and how to diagnose: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EWPreOBDAug05.pdf

Or just about any Autozone, Advance Auto, Napa.....Nothing special, just a washer check valve. Maybe a blister pack of one of those red HELP packages.

There are MAP's and there are MAF's. Subaru has used both. Not sure what you have, But: MAF - Manifold Air Flow Sensor, usually mounted in the Air intake after the air filter but before the throttle body. These usually have the Air filter mounted on the inner fender. These are small thin dissimiliar wires that measure the air flow density by the resistance measurement between the different elements. Usually any contaminient (oil, dirt, etc) upsets or damages it. If you have a MAF, I would try to remove it and carefully clean the wires with a q-tip and isopropal alcohol. Ebay many times has used good ones cheap. MAP - Manifold Air Pressure is a sensor mounted on or behind the throttle body exposed to the intake vacuum. Here the Air filter can be mounted directly on the throttle body If space permits. This uses a barometric type sensor to measure the air pressure within the manifold. This type sensor is a little more rugged. Either work with the ECU with the engine temp sensor and throttle position sensor to help generate a gross fuel trim (combustible mixture). The fine fuel trim uses the Oxygen sensor and feedback method to further control emissions. This is why cars will run in 'open loop', without oxygen sensor feedback, but will fail to even start without a MAF or MAP input. I know...more that you need to know or asked, but I the words were just in the right place at my fingertips today.

My 90 Legacy LS AWD wagon was a dealer demo. Bought it with 9.2K miles in August of 1990. Had Full Factory warrenty. Dealer even agreed to extend the then 36K bumper2bumper to 45K. This Demo was used by his Wife. Had a few minor paint mars and interior marks, But was a great deal. Turned out to be the BEST car I have owned to date. Had it for 7 1/2 yrs before it was totaled in a bad bad accident on the NY Thruway back in 97. Had 179K on the odometer at the time. Other than normal maintainence, did 1 front CV joint, and 1 water pump. I had a good experience, from a known great dealer here in NJ (Liberty Subaru in Oradell). Be certain you know the use of the vehicle before you buy.

Rotor pdf..I try to upload this one and it doesn't get there....anyway, rotor is seperate, not part of the hub.

Do you need the Rotor off? or the Hub? Rotor is seperate. Here is a .pdf files. for the rear drive shaft which includes removing the hub.

I am FOR DRL, but since it is not a law in the US, organizations like lightsout.org are around. Since 1985 (a GL wagon), I have driven with my lights on all the time. You can find your answer there: http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Subaru

The oil solenoids which control the pressure to the cam sprocket area are Open or Closed. So Valve timing is Advanced......or Standard. Only inbetween during energizing or retracting. Think of it as a hydraulic advance. Toyota has used this on some of thier V6's also. I haven't seen one of those leaks or cause problems. Maybe this is why Subaru went with it?????? (just a guess). And yes..I remember High Lift, advance degree cams on the 60's and 70's. Spent a lot of time and money on those which would not idle smoothly, or at all under 1000 rpm.

This is an Internal Heater in the O2 sensor. Unless they damaged the wire at the connector end, I would chalk it up to coincidence. Have the connector checked both on the vehicle harness end and the sensor end. I doubt that they removed the sensor from the CatCon during their service. My 02 Forester had this failure (Heater element open) twice on the front O2 sensor and once on the rear one. These were 3 of the 7 times those sensors were replaced in the 62K I owned that car, and one of the many reasons I replaced it after the 60K warrenty ran out.

Here's your rundown (according to Subaru Vin Decoder) 4s3 SIA (not FHI) Passenger Vehicle b Legacy g Outback Wagon 4 2.2L engine 8 Outback / Sus 5 Manual Seatbelts w Airbags 3 Check Digit (no value to decode) t MY1995 6 SIA built AWD MT5 374891 Legacy Station Wagon Type s/n

There have been MANY discussions on other boards. Result, IIFC, Oil is Quaker State.....WalMart Oil Filters are Champion..(Decent filter for $1.97 or 2.97)...Better than a Fram in my Opinion....I did have a Fram problem on a 76 Plymouth Arrrow.....Filter internally destroyed itself....and my motor....Mopar would not fix it, Fram did nothing. I rebuilt it, sold it, and purchased my 1st Subaru, a 77 2 dr DL FWD.....Been in Subaru's since....amd never bought another Fram Product.

Try the following. It's the largest Subaru junkyard in the US. They have always had or could locate what I needed since 1985. Back then it was by phone. You could still call them, or request an online search or parts request. They are in Ct. About 30 miles east of Danbury in Roxbury. http://www.fsautoparts.com/ P.S......love Lancaster county........grew up about an hr from there.....still enjoy it. Mikey