ferret

If your problem returns, here's a link to a problem I just fixed. Only applies if you have the newer electronic EGR valve as the thread shows. Something else to consider if your problem returns. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/low-idle-stuttering-erratic-jerking-various-rpms-76450/index3.html#post887065

Automatic and Turbo Foresters have them. N/A 5 speeds did not.

I have used these guys out of Toronto. Their Y pipes and Catalytic converters go right on with no problems, are made well, and reasonable. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Forester-resonator-mid-pipe-99-02-FAST-SHIPPING-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2ea81a85b6QQitemZ200388806070QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

If the cooler is removed, then not only the water pump will have to be replaced, but also the coolant return plug for the block will have to be purchased and installed. As well as a shorter stub for the oil filter to screw onto. Believe me, much easier to purchase an automatic water pump.

That was standard on an Automatic Forester. On the 5 speed it will do no harm. In fact some people have added them to theirs.

Something else to consider in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102171&page=2

When it is acting up, shut it off, then unplug the front O2 sensor. It will set a code, but if it runs, the front sensor is your problem. This has happened to quite a few people I know. When cold, the engine runs in 'open loop' mode. But when it gets warm, it switches to 'closed loop' and the sensors output becomes more critical. Easy test to try.

In 06 Subaru SOHC added Advance valve timing. You CAN use the engine in an older car and just ignore it. It has been done a few times on other boards with great success. If you really want it to work, you have to change the wiring harness and get a newer ECU, but there are other obstacles to overcome also. IIRC, the 06's also used the key immobilizer which was also part of the ECU. So you may be better off just leaving it alone.

I would check/clean MAF sensor. This is one of the symptoms of a defective/dirty MAF. Another could be front O2 sensor. But that usually acts like fuel is cutting off after warmup and above a certain RPM.

Here's a guy in Montreal who made a few videos. Granted it's a Forester, but it's the same for all 4 cyl EJ engines. You may have a different fan arrangement, but the motor part is the same. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/timing-belt-oil-pump-water-pump-video-65248/

Get a Subaru Thermostat. Yes is must be the longer one to work properly. Been discussed her and on other boards. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104756 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/2001-forester-running-hot-after-timing-belt-wp-replacement-61858/

Must be that time of year. MY04 Forester also lost it's timing belt on an interstate. Granted it's an SOHC vs your DOHC, but from the last DOHC I did, the damage was the same, bent valves. I wrote about it below: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/every-2-5l-interference-engine-64410/

The above picture is for the 2001 and earlier. Starting in 2002, the PCV valve was moved to the OTHER end of that hose down in the engine block rear. On the 2002 and newer, that picture is just an orifice where the upper end of the PCV valve attached to the throttle body. Follow that hose down and you will find yours. Also note, it IS a different valve and part number from the one that was mounted on the throttle body as shown.

Yup, I agree here ... misfires and fuel trim lean .... front O2 sensor. No MAF on his, he has a MAP. 00-02 Subarus are known for this behavior. Easy way to check, when it's acting up, unplug the front O2 sensor. This WILL set a code, but the ECU will run in open loop mode. And if the hesitation goes away, you confirmed your culprit. Usually happens AFTER it warms up, and the engine goes into Closed-Loop mode.

I would replace the thermostat with a Subaru one from a dealer AND ensure it's installed properly. More than once I have seen this. Here's a link to similiar thread, albeit a Forester, but the engines are the same ..... and so were his symptoms. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/2001-forester-running-hot-after-timing-belt-wp-replacement-61858/

What kind of thermostat did you use? I hope it was a SUBARU brand. The OEM and aftermarkets have been known to cause overheating problems. Also they have to be installed in the correct direction. The Subaru thermostat is not expensive from the dealer, and you will see the spring/heat end is longer and sets deeper into the waterpump. This way it opens sooner and all the way when necessary. You may have any of the other problems discussed here, but I have come across an OEM thermostat causing problems in boxer engines more than once.

Fuse in the underhood fusebox for the right headlight is bad.

The Endwrench article mentions up to 2002 Legacy. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ClutchInfoWin04.pdf

If I'm not mistaken, the 90-94 Legacys used a Zexel brand compressor. Same as some of the 2000 and up Subarus. If you do have a Zexel compressor, read this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102171&page=2

I'll bet this was an aftermarket belt ( Gates,Dayco, etc ). This is common on the right sprocket of any of the SOHC EJ engines. The toothed belt to mark on the right side is always a 1/2 tooth off, for example 45 1/2 teeth. The aftermarket mfgrs mark it at the NEXT full tooth, in the example 46 teeth. So when an UNEXPERIENCED mechanic replaces the belt, they have a 50/50 chance of getting it correct. This is a common problem for misfires ( cyl 1 & 3 ) and rough idles after a belt replacement.

Check the headlight fuses in the underhood fusebox. There is one for each headlight. Chances are, you will find one defective.

With the advent of all the electronics stuffed under the hood since the mid - late 80's, the basic of jump starting have changed. Whenever possible, use a portable starter kit. These are the jumpstart units most tow trucks use these days when dispatched. They are separate and have little chance of overvoltage or frying the 'jumped' vehicle electronics. In the event one is not available, attach the cables to the donor vehicle's battery positive, then the dead vehicle positive, the donor negative at the battery, then last the dead vehicle motor for ground. Start the donor and let it run for 20-30 minutes to charge the dead battery. Shut off the donor vehicle and try to start the dead vehicle. In the even it does NOT start, you should not go further. Having the donor run while attempting to start the dead vehicle can damage the donor's Alternator or cause a voltage spike which can damage electronics in either vehicle. It's a wonderful thing to be a good Samaritan, but at what cost.

Yes, in fact here's a Forester writeup: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f92/wtb-piece-wiper-linkage-24251/

H6 water pump is Chain Driven. Foresters didn't have that rotation sensor. They used the Zexel only compressor. ( 98 may be different as it was in many ways ) The Calsonic clutches , IIRC, were the systems that used that sensor. And the clutch plate face has 3 or 4 tabs that stick up to pass by the sensor when the clutch engages. Similiar as most automobile A/C systems are, but one of the differences between them. Early 90 legacy's I think also used the Zexel compressor as did the SVX.

Natalie, Read the following similar post and see what I have found to be the culprit on page 2 post #11. Yours, and many others, are falling into this age. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102171