ferret

The CAM pulleys DO NOT have to be removed to replace the water pump. But the belt MUST come off. I don't know how you can 'CLAMP' it. Also the lower left toothed pulley will have to be removed as this is attached to the water pump housing. Here's a thread with some pictures of a 2001 Forester. It may be a 2.5L and have the newer tensioning pulley, but the proceedure is the same. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=14416 Here's a good Endwrench URL: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf

99-02 Forester, 99-02 Impreza, 00-04 Legacy/Outback. Stay with the 2.5L SOHC phase 2 to use the Kiss principle ( keep it simple stupid ). Use your current intake and sensors. Find a used one, or contact Emily at CCR ( vendor on this board ) for a good rebuild. Complete with a 3yr/36k warrenty from a company that's a pleasure to do business with.

Was announced Dec 25th. Still on he Impreza platform. Look at the Interior, it's Identical to the Impreza now. IIRC 3" longer, 1-2" taller. From the side, it looks like the current Forester with a new front and rear. USDM will have the 2.5L across the board with the X, XS and XT models. Europe will have the 2.0L as current with the LPG option. 4EAT and 5sp are still in the power train options. VCD standard on all models. For 2009 power lineup sounds the same as the current. Future holds the 5EAT with sport shift like the Legacy/Outback AND the diesel, turbo'ed and putting out aout 150 bhp. There are many blogs also on the internet about this. Most informaton coming from Japan, Russia and Great Britian. http://www.carview.co.jp/magazine/photo_impression/2007/subaru_forester/ http://forum2.forester-moscowclub.ru/viewtopic.php?p=63083#63083 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=26188&page=6

SBF-6 leaves the underhood box as 2 wires, then goes thru a firewall grommet. One wire goes to the under dash fusebox and feed fuse #3, 15A for the Keyless entry module. I would expect this 15A fuse to blow if the keyless entry module had a problem. The other wire goes up behind the instrument cluster to a Self Resetting 25A circuit breaker. It's output feed the power points of the Window Relay just aove the drivers left kick panel. The output of this goes to the MAIN window switch in the drivers door. If it were the relay,( somehow internally shorting to ground ) the Self resetting circuit breaker would trip, then reset. If it were in the wire or Main Switch in the door, I would expect the Self resetting Breaker to trip OR destroy the relay points ( usually only rated for 30A ). Unless that 25A self resetting circuit breaker is defective, I would look for a pinched or exposed wire from the under hood fuse box, to where it goes thru the firewall.

1991, the speedometer adapter is broken. In the early 90's, the speedometer was cable driven and the VSS was in the speedometer head. The adapter is on the passenger side, right where the cable enters the tranny. The cable is held on by a spring clip. Remove the cable, then unscrew the adapter from the transmission. Replace the adapter and put it all back together. This was common and Subaru dealers stock this part.

The older tensioner cylinders are more resilient than the new tensioner pulley assy on the newer 2.2L and 2.5L. ( My opinion and experiences ). I have yet to replace the older cylinder type or come across one that would not compress and then retention. The newer style, I have has to replace a few for the cars I service, at a hefty price to the owners ( I have yet to spend less than $115 for them, and recently they have increased in price ).

Winterforce tires ARE at Tirerack. They are a directional tire, inexpensive, and are phenomenal in snow, slush, mud and just about anything I've thrown at them, BUT ICE. I did not stud them, my own choice, since I do mostly highway driving. But the reviewers who did gave them high marks on ice also. But even unstudded, they were better than any all season I ever ran. I also have them mounted on a second set of rims I bought from the internet. End of my reviews and experiences.

BE CAREFUL ON THESE PULLEYS. NOT ALL SMOOTH OR TOOTHED PULLEYS ARE THE SAME. Changing the bearing is OK, but don't swap an unknown pulley into 3 otherwise good pulleys. Subaru, in it's infinite wisdom, has used different pulleys ( with different p/n's ) on the same engine. And they are NOT interchangeable. At least not to the longevity of the belt. Be certain you are using the correct p/n that matches the other pulleys and belt you are using. On the 2.5L DOHC, they used the same from 97 - 99, but the 96 is different. ALSO the SOHC 2.5L are not all the same either. Some are shaped curved toward the outside, others completely smooth. Also the geared idler may have the same number teeth and same diameter, but different tooth pitch. My advice ...ALWAYS used a valid substitute p/n for the one you are replacing. Looks here are deceiving. EXAMPLE: 2003 SOHC Legacy/Outback looks identical to the 2003 SOHC Forester. Different P/n Pulleys on Cams, Different P/N smooth and geared pulleys AND different p/n Timing Belt. SAME NUMBER OF TEETH. Different pitch, and different way the back rides on the smooth pulleys. What puzzles me about the above ..... same Water pump, same Tensioner. Once again, my experiences and $.02, take it for what you want.

Did anyone notice, new Subaru designs since and including the Tribeca and new Impreza have FRAMED windows on the doors? I've owned 7 Subaru's since 1978, All were frameless windows. According to their site, it was done for Safety and Security reasons. Rumor is also, 2009 Forester is 6" taller and almost the size and shape of the Tribeca. No longer based on the Impreza. Almost 1000 lbs heavier than the current Forester which may not make it in the European markets ( ie the rumored Diesel option getting less MPG than the current 2.5L ) Oh well, I always liked my different looking Subaru's. Guess that's going by the wayside.

Check your hose clamps, especially the radiator hose ends. When these are torqued at the factory, since the radiator is plastic, they are torqued very low. After a hard or hot run, they weep a small amount. Not enough to make a puddle, but over time you can smell coolant and lose some without knowing where it's going. Re-tighten the hose clamps and see if that helps. My $.02 ........

Here's a good read for you. The last pages are for the SOHC and tensioner like you have: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf P.S. I had contract work last fall out at Blair in Warren..... Think I passed very close to you then since I went out I-80 than all backroads north.

The code should still be there, but now STORED. Some code readers and only read the current CEL ( when the Check Engine Light is ON ). After it goes off, it is then stored for up to 2000 cycles ( engine starts ) depending on the code and it's severity. Some codes are reported ( turns on the CEL ) immediately upon recognition. Others come on after 2 or 3 repeated failures. Then after a determined number of cycles WITHOUT the failure occurring again, the CEL is now turned off, and the code is now Stored instead of being active. Based on this, you have 'something' which is intermittent. Could be a sensor going bad, poor connector or something else. But I wouldn't throw any parts at it blindly without knowing what set the CEL. I would find some place or someone you know who has a tool that can read a 'stored' code.

The bolt is right handed but very tight. Some have used a breaker bar and rest it against the ground, then disable the ignition by removing the spark plug cables or pulling the fuel pump fuse, then hit the starter. The bolt breaks free. But I usually hold the flywheel with a large screwdriver and a long 1/2" breaker bar. Regarding failed tensioners. Yes they do fail. I have seen bad bearings on them. Also failed tensioners. Both the original tensioner and the newer ( 97 to current ) tensioner/pulley assy. Seems the plunger becomes stationary and no longer extends. This causes the belt to flop and the pulley to bounce. It sounds like a bad rod bearing or piston slap. Easy to determine, just remove the drivers side timing belt cover and start the car. Look down and watch the tensioner. If it bounces or the belt, then the tensioner is defective. Biggest cause I have found is a servicer, when replacing the timing belt, doesn't take their time compressing the tensioner. It calls for no more than 1000 ft/lbs and MUST be done vertically. Many may use a VISE to do this ( not correct ). A C-clamp serves better and it takes 8-10 Min's of small turns to do it correctly. Subaru also had a TBS about these for the 99-02 models. And under warranty replaced many of them. End of my $.02 and experiences ...........

www.japanparts.com They are not associated with Subaru, but a Japanese to worldwide distributor. There are no deals there, but hard to find products, or those NOT available in the US or other world markets. Shipping is high. Yes, I have the "vent visors" on MY04 Forester. They were $159 when I bought them over a year ago. And $45 for shipping. They were expensive, but I did want them and do enjoy them.

Catch cans are usually found on Turbo charged engines. Something to 'store' the oil residue when the intake is running pressure instead of vacuum. Then the fumes are returned when vacuum returns. People who run these, usually don't have to empty them unless they are running very hard.

AHHHH 01/02 Forester / Legacy / Outback. Does it buck after warmup like you have bad gas? ( water in the gas? ) If so, these were known for defective front O2 sensors. They would not set a code for this problem. But after warming up they intermittently sent a signal to the ECU that the engine was running rich. The ECU shut down the injectors. When there was NO exhaust, then the ECU turned on the injectors again. So the ECU is fooled and never sets a code !!! I have seen this quite a few times. To the point a guy couldn't restart his 02 Outback and it was flat bedded to the dealer. When it came off the truck, guess what .... it started and there was no bucking. 2nd time that happened, he left the car at the dealer.

Yes, the small bulb in the switch is burned out. You can go to Radio Shack and in their parts drawers get a 12v 'grain of wheat' bulb. It's very small, with 2 wires on it. Packaged 2 to a blister pack. About $.99. Then remove the panel and remove the switch. On the side of the switch are 2 plastic lamp holders that unscrew ( 1/4 turn ). One is for the illumination with the headlights, the other is the indicator to let you know the switch is ON. Simply un-do the wires and pull the old bulb from the base, install the new, bend the wires and cut them. If the old bulb had a colored lense on it, then remove it ( peel it back ) and place it on the new bulb. Heres a link to some pictures, but scroll down and Peaty has a picture of the side of the switch showing the 2 bulb holders. In his switch, there is only 1 bulb, for illumination. You might have to register at ScoobyMods to see the pictures. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3642

Will it work ... YES. The engine is the same. Use your 99 intake assy and sensors. The 99 was a MAF intake and throttle body system, while the 2001 is a MAP system. But the engines mechanically are the same.

Primary reason for Cabin Air filters is not what you think. Being around HVAC in business and mobile for 30 yrs, it's primary purpose is to keep the heating, but more-so the A/C fins clean. Without a filter, the fins, thru the heating and cooling with dust/pollen/dirt attached is a great breeding ground for mold and mildew. By having an inlet filter that's serviced regularly, it prevents this. As well as keeping the air channels and blower fans/cages clean. Also extends the bearing and belt lives involved. So in a vehicle it also keeps leaves and other foreign matter out. Remember in the past, before cabin filters, starting your A/C first time in spring or summer, the nasty smell that came out, with a filter it reduces or eliminates this. So it prevents mold and mildew from forming and makes the air healthier in that respect. Regarding breathing the 6-12 month dirt buildup, remember this is a small filter for air passing thru it. A smaller percentage of what it traps would make it to your respiratory system, so to sell it to me, and Dealers will do that, is not what it was intended for. For those who believe that, they should never roll down their windows, nor travel without their respirator masks on.

05 Legacy might NOT be OBDII, but CAN bus. If you are using an OBDII reader, then you are not reading the code.

If you go with the Subaru unit, The plug will connect directly to the plug tied back in your headliner. Also will fit the mirror mount button directly, No modification. So the reason to go with the Factory option is, it's already wired and simple to install. less than 15 minutes, even if you get the newer one with the 'Homelink' button. Or you could save a few bucks ...... and change the connector end .... and install an adapter for the mirror mount.

Yes, the side facing the windshield. This is the sensor for night and day. The one by the button you see is to let the mirror know when there is light from behind and to dim. So the front facing one sees dark, rear sees light .... mirror dims. Front facing sees dark, rear also dark .... mirror normal so you can see in the dark. Front facing sees light ..... no dimming Also there is a wire attached to the backup lights, so when you put the car in reverse, no matter what the lighting conditions, the mirror is normal. No auto-dimming.

It thinks it's night time ALL the time. The front sensor is dirty or blocked. Clean it with a damp q-tip. Front sensor is on what we call the rear of the mirror ( facing the front of the vehicle toward the passenger side ) you will feel a small indent and at the bottom of it is the front sensor. It lets the mirror know when it's daylight and not to dim. Blocked or dirty, it can no longer "see the light".

Only difference should be the colored "lense" over the bulb giving it the green, or no lense so it's white. Go to Radio Shack, and in their drawers of discreet parts, find a 12v 'grain of wheat' bulb. 2 to a package. Either $1.29 or 1.99 for a package. Then remove the old bulb from the base, bend the wires around the old base, transfer the colored lense 9 covering and cut the wires.

On your Forester, as previously stated, the +12v is applied to all the lights. Then the ground is varied by the Illumination Module which is controlled by the rheostat on the headlight stalk. I suspect you have one of those controlled ground wires 'pinched' or 'frayed' and touching the body metal somewhere effectively grounding the lights and keeping them at full intensity at all times. One way to check, UNPLUG the illumination module. If the lights still stay on bright, then you definitely have a short in one of those wires. If the lights go out, the the module you got from the wrecker is defective. Now to find it, you did state you had the radio out. Behind it are a lot of sharp edges which could easily pierce a wire and cause a ground short like this. That would be where I would start. If the short is not there, you have a lot of tracing wires to do.