AdventureSubaru

Might do that. Got a couple ideas to try since I'm resorting to my scrap pile and welder to create something to complete the task.

No check engine light? Alternator is suspect. Failing/bad mass air flow sensors can also cause stalling and poor running conditions.

Yep. That was the deceptive part. Bolts spun right out. Axle popped free on the first whack. I thought this was going to be a one hour job. Now got 6 hours at least just trying to rig something to get it out. I pulled the hub piece all the way out so theres just the mounting plate and back of the bearing. Thought I'd get it for sure when I got put a bolt in the back of the knuckle almost all the way to the threads and held it there with some big C clamps. Spun a bolt through the threads to hit the other one and press outward. Cranked to the point that I think i'll strip the bolt and still hasn't budged. Going to try a second one like that. If not, I'll be welding a plate and nuts and putting at least 4 bolts of pressure to it.

Still getting nowhere on this. Tried 3 chisels but nothing seperating. Bought two home depot bolts of same threading and pounded from the back side with nail hammer and got some good pops one handing that 15lb sledge. Still not budging. Thought this would work for sure. Bolts bent on the first try. With 3 heavier (1/2 inch I think) bolts its starting to seperate the hub and bearing. Next thing I can think is to pull the hub piece out and try to weld a plate across it to try similar, but get bolts lined up straight with no angles.

2011 Ouback, about 120k. Only a year spent in salty winters. Rears have been making noise for a while. Figured I'd get these done before we take a 4 hour drive Sunday evening to attend a conference. Everything has gone smoothly until it came time to knock the bearing loose. Hit with a hammer. Nothing. Pried with a pry bar. Nothing. Upgraded to a 5 foot crow bar, a 2 foot pipe wrench to pull/push perpendicular with no success. 15 LB sledge and I'm hitting it with force that splits 2ft Oak logs. Metal is mushrooming, but it's not showing any signs of giving up. (Yes, axle nut is loose. I left it on so the whole thing doesn't topple if/when it finally brakes loose. I have most of tomorrow to work on it, but unsure of what to do next. Just keep whaling on it? hoping someone has a trick or tool that can get this unjammed.

Foresters were originially equipped with the EJ20 SOHC in a number of markets outside the US so it should be well suited. I did it on a 2001 and a 2002 outback. (Heavier than a forester) Easy swap. Was actually impressed with the power. You dont notice the difference unless you're really loaded down or going up a long or steep incline. 99% sure the timing belts are the same. Count teeth just to be sure.

Man, I bet that think is spunky when you hit the gas. I've often daydreamed of taking a crunched impreza and making a cool AWD roadster out of an old Fiat, Opel, etc.

Thanks. Figured as much.

awesome. Will snag it for sure then. Next question is what the final drive of the rear diff is for the H6 diff? It's an 03. and the diff and all comes as a whole "cradle" Would certainly simplify the process if the diffs match and dont need swapped. Both are automatic.

Any difference in the rear subframes of the 2000-04s between 4cylinder and H6? Just want to confirm before I pull the trigger on one.

99+ 2.2s (And all 99+SOHC 2.5s) Are NOT compatable with your 99 outback aside from splitting the block and putting your heads on the Phase 2 block (Which is a step up, but not much different than where you started. The cheap and reliable fixes for both are 95-98 phase 1 EJ22s to match the phase 1 Ej25 in your 99 outback. For simplicitys sake, look for EJ22s from cars with automatic transmissions as these motors were also EGR equipped and will not cause a check engine light. If the engine light doesnt matter a non-egr motor will run just fine.\ car-part.com is a great place to find them. Usually if I offer to come down, cash in hand for a motor, yards will negotiate a bit on price.

skipping the resurfacing and using cheap headgaskets. We all could have predicted a quick repeat failure. Without spending a bunch of money, you're just rolling the dice again. Even if you do the job right, there's a high probability of rod bearing failure in the future if it ever ran hot. This is why most of us do the Ej22 swap. It rarely exceeds $500 and far outlives the 2.5 You'll spend far more cobbling that Ej25 back together without leaks and still not have the reliability. There's a reason that it's standard practice. So, of course, it's your car and you can do what you want. Done right and if bearings were never roasted the EJ25 will go on and on. GD has it down to science and I would take his advice to heart if you want long life from that motor.

Make sure the pins are in so the CV is not sliding across the stub. But no, stock axles are fine.

Fun cars, but that's looking like a bigger gamble. best suited as a parts car to keep others on the road. A cheap 90s legacy or impreza would probably fit the bill better. Or even an EA series car since you're not in rust country. Keeping tabs on craigslist and being willing to take a drive when a deal pops up gives you good odds for finding a good one. I bought my 98 daily driver for $200 with jumped timing and creaking rear suspension. Took a about $300 in junkyard parts and it's been very useful since.

Automatic transmissions failed readily in them. 5 speeds were fine.