AdventureSubaru

I'm still suggesting mass air flow sensor. They are known for causing the engine to periodically become gutless and even stall out without throwing a code. Intermittent fuel pump would be number 2 on my list. I chased one all over the place trying to find why it bogged down on hills until I could actually hear the pump whirring, then I knew for sure. They are cheap and easy to grab from a junkyard. I think $10 put me back on the road that time. At least you know that first motor is good. Now you've got a spare.

They're there on our 2011. Look on the back of the crank sprocket, not the front. You should see the hash mark.

Nice car. Bet it feels like driving a big go-kart with that set up.

They are not a very common fail point, but at 300,000 miles plus could certainly be. Especially if you're sure about your plug wires. the correlation to rain sure sounds like an electrical issue.

I had one slip on a failing tensioner. Was only off by a tooth or so, but it sounded pretty normal. Completely gutless going up a hill. Limped it a couple miles home and was pleased to find it was just slipped timing. (non interference. a 96 ej22)

Glad to see all the progress. Timing belts on the ej22 are pretty simple. If the Ej22 is dual port exhaust it's non interference. If single port and original, still non interference. Swapped from a newer one, is interference (97 and 98) That odometer reading is exactly why i love that motor so much. The other reason it that if/when it finally dies, you can get another good used one for a couple hundred dollars, swap it in a day and keep on driving.

Rust free is quite the luxury in the rust belt. Spent a few years in california and got spoiled by the rust free cars. 800 is not out of the question. I would gladly paya few hundred extra for a rust free over the rust buckets most of this generation have become. usually though, it worth it to offer 500 and see what happens. Cash talks and if the car is sitting in need of repair, theres usually some motivation to part ways with it. If you're up for some climbing and wiggling, you can change out the clutch from the top. It doesn't save a whole lot of time but lends itself to driveway work.I've done it a couple times this way for the same reason. You pull the exhaust and drop the driveshaft and remove the roll pins from the CVs. Once the trans is separated you can slide it back and it drops to the backside of the front crossmember. You have to put some carpet sections/cardboard etc on top of your engine and lay on top of it and you have room enough to reach down between the engine and trans to swap out your clutch components. it's usually recommended to swap the clutch fork clip and the throwout bearing pins but I have reused them. Also good to regrease the pivot point of the fork and the shaft for the throwout bearing.

i'd go with a new knock sensor first. They fail ALL THE TIME These motors are consistently tappy sounding. No need getting scared off by what could be normal chatter of a subaru.

Cute girls with car trouble attract every pompous know it all wanting to show off for her. I was helping a friend in college with her car and three different buddies of mine each started acting as if they knew all about motors when i knew they were mechanically illiterate. One even took the "flux capacitor" bait. But yeah, chances are he just wasted her time and yours and that motor doesn't need a whole lot more than it did originally. If he was enough of a dolt to do as he did, he was hopefully nervous/hesitant enough to not do anything reckless. (Fingers crossed anyway)

That's what I figured but can never tell on facebook. Been kicking around this forum for enough years that i know who knows their stuff and who doesn't. One guy was insistant that the phase II setup of 2.2 heads on 2.5 block was superior to the phase 1 setup. Didn't make sense to me but wasn't in a place to argue as my experience in phase 2s is limited to engine swaps alone where I know phase 1 pretty well by now after a few dozen cars and motors and whatnot.

This is out of curiosity and not necessity, but came up in conversation and I am not sure of the answer. I know that the phase one frankenmotor of 90-98 EJ22 heads on a 2.5 block make a high compression, higher HP motor. Does the same hold true for using the 99+ Ej22 heads on a 2.5 block? I have been under the impression that the phase 2s were similar enough that it would run fine, but not create a much more powerful motor. (certainly not enough to surpass a phase 2 EJ25) But that's just what I've heard. Anyone have more info? Or first hand knowledge of hp increase/decrease?

Sounds like a clutch. Get a feel for it. If the transmission shifts but just revs, you're probably just looking at a clutch job. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html Rather easy job on the whole. Rust can add some hours.

Once you get the belt on properly, you will probably know for sure one way or another as it will either sound normal, or barely run. If it sounds normal, do as GD suggested and check lash. I bought my 98 legacy with a jumped timing belt. I replaced a failing idler and the belt with used parts by way of checking and it eventually started and moved but was really plunky. I ended up getting a cheap used 96 EJ22 and dropping it in. Others just get a set of used heads and the felpro head gaskets (Same as Subaru but for $25 each) and put it all together. If you do the work yourself it wont run you more than a few hundred dollars. But step one is to get a good timing belt on there. Fox's videos are great to get the right visuals. #1 mistake is to mix hash marks and arrows. Use the hash marks only. I turn it over by hand two full revolutions and make sure it all lines up before starting it. ignore the marks on the belt. If the hash marks line up, it's timed.

that makes sense. Thought I saw one with an integrated cat before but couldn't remember where. Been a while since I've owned anything pre-95

They should both bend. Other than the turbos, a dual port is a dual port as far as I know.

Yes. Keep the y pipe from your 99 as the 95 will have dual port exhaust. Otherwise you're good to go.

Can't beat free. It's probably head gaskets if the rods aren't yet knocking. I am a firm believer in the ej22 swap. Lived in california for a while and drove a few that way and helped two friends do the same. Smog was never an issue. It will pass just fine if it's running right. Just dont smog it at a Subaru specific shop where they would notice the difference between the two motors. 99 legacies had a 2.2 (phase 2) You would need a 95-98 to replace your motor. So it would not look unusual in there. You can roll the dice on the free motor. Make sure to get subaru OEM gaskets and have the heads resurfaced. At that point you'll almost be at the cost of the Ej22 motor.

I put a 16 foot canoe on my Impreza using a couple 4 foot wooden 4x4s. Worked just fine. You'd be fine with some home depot water pipe. Seen some with the foam pipe insulation wrapped in electrical tape. Bolted to the stock roof rack and it would be plenty secure. The most important part is having it tied/ratcheded down snug. Especially with a canoe make sure the front is anchored or the wind can leverage it around.

Another option is to pull the rear section of the driveshaft and keep running your existing trans since it shifts fine. You can drive it that way until something more serious breaks, or until you find the ideal replacement. (As mentioned, make sure it's a matching final drive ratio.)

best to avoid the 97-99 Ej25 DOHC motor. Known for repeat head gasket failures. Look for one with an EJ22 or get one with a known bad motor and replace with an EJ22. Check for overheating signs/bubbles in coolant. 99+ learn to look for external and internal head gasket leaks. (Usually external on these motors) A little weeping is fine, but this is the beginning of the failure. Big bonus if headgaskets are already replaced and done right. Done right the headgaskets will be done once and not need it again. Ensure that all 4 tires are same size, brand a wear. Drive slow tight circles to feel for torque bind. Avoid anything with a turbo unless you care to have more frequent and expensive maintenance. Subarus can last a very long time, and are easy to work on so they are often worth it from prior owners to get new/low miles engine and transmissions. I've seen them with over half a million miles on the clock. The bigger thing to look for over mileage is how well the car was cared for. Clean, smooth, well maintained cars last. Good service history records and such help. Most cars will tell you whether they have been cared for or not if you know what to look for.

Agreed. gas cap wont be linked to crank sensor. Crank sensor codes come from failing crank sensors, or a timing issue. As the car is running fine, I'd suggest getting a new crank sensor.

Exedy is the proven standard. The cheaper ones on ebay and such are a really mixed bag. Some are fine and some wont get you far. it's usually not worth saving $50. to have to do the job twice.

Get the full intake on there. That hose to the IACV and the lack of a mass air flow are a start.

I would just swap your sensors over rather than splice. Cam, crank and the last one should be your knock sensor. Just put everything over from the 97 to keep it clean. 10mm bolts for cam and crank sensors. 12mm for the knock.

Had that on a couple over the years. I think it's just surface rust from sitting. I hit them with some carb cleaner and swabbed them a bit. Ran fine.