AdventureSubaru

For a junkyard motor, those are two big positives. Reccomend a new timing kit unless you know the one on there is newish.

Sits about 2 inches higher in the rear without the trailer.

I try to keep as much USDM as possible. Swap complete intake manifold, sensors, crank and drivers cam sprocket. Basically just the long block from the EJ20. Your misfire could easily be contained in whatever is JDM on the top of the motor.

You'll want 2004-2008 Forester struts and springs to get any noticeable difference. Add strut top spacers for a little extra. Outback setup is just a little shorter than forester. Adding king springs to your existing setup will give you about an inch which would probably be comparable to what the forester swap would. Next step would be body lift of 2-4 inches.

Done this swap twice and used the 2.5 USDM coil both times.

I've done this swap. It's well documented on here if you do some searches. There's a sticky in the off road section for lifting Imprezas. All the same is true for legacys but the trailing arm brackets are much more optional and the rear tophats are often a match. What are you lifting?

Outback in general refers to the lifted legacy platform. OBS was all impreza. Yes, get a set of springs and struts to fit 08 Forester and you'll get a little over 2 inches of lift and can clear up to 28 inch tires.

It's hogwash. Re use them. Just dip the bottom inch in old engine oil to keep them lubed before reinstall

Under the hood by the drivers side strut tower. Just in front of the master cylinder.

My work buddy refers to it as "Eating a slice of humble pie" Reminds us we're human.

Part number 9845PT and you'll want 2 of them. Search the oil separator plate. If yours is plastic, you'll want the stainless steel dealer upgrade. This cures that pesky oil leak that drips onto the catalytic converter. Probably new exhaust manifold and intake manifold gaskets. Timing kit if it's due.

If you are sure that the air is worked out of the system and that the radiator is not blocked - run it until it is warm. Look inside the coolant reservoir and look for bubbles coming out the hose. If no bubbles, rev the motor up and look. If you have bubbles, it's the head gaskets. Head gaskets on the EJ22 are super simple. Felpro gaskets are about $25 each and are the same as Subaru OEM (Even have the FUJI stamp). You don't need to even take the valve covers off. It can be done without pulling the motor but most of us find it easier to do so. Head resurfacing is optional. Some will suggest it and it certainly cant hurt. Follow the torque sequence and put it all back in. Also a great time for a new clutch kit (if 5 speed) and oil separator plate.

$80 well spent. These things have too much of a soccer mom/grocery getter look stock. Interior had a bunch of Velcro tabs that I removed with the aid of a heat gun. Still some residue on the dash and steering wheel to clean up. Going to delete the 6 disc since it has a Sony dash unit in it now. Threw a set of Harbor Freight fog lights on. Eventually want 4 more up top. You can see how stuffed that rear tire is. Air suspension had collapsed. They must have been smooth when they were new, but I didn't want to mess with it. The Monroe kit arrived. My arms got quite the workout. Subaru spoils me with all the 12mm and 14mm bolts. These were 18mm and 21mm mostly. Don't have the "after" pics yet, but it sits a bit higher now, and the ride is smooth again. Great kit. Already put 500 miles on it including a 100 miles towing. I'm a fan. It's fun driving a big vehicle sometimes.

Could be. I bench tested it off the battery and it spins both ways. I may just hardwire it to a switch. It's a nice truck but I'm keeping it as low budget as possible.

Far better/cheaper option if your tires are still in good enough shape- The industry standard as of the last few or several years is that plugs are temporary, patches are permanent. I would find a decent shop, or even Wal Mart TLE is good/cheap to pull the tire, patch it properly and put a new valve stem in for good measure. It will cost $20 and likely stop whatever leaking issues you've got.

I did this for the first time on a rusty 97 Impreza and it took about 5 hours - mostly due to breaking some of the captive nuts on the trailing arm brackets. As mentioned, start now by daily soaking the nuts and threads with some PB blaster. Be sure to access the captive nuts above the trailing arm brackets (You may need to drill a hole. Get a flashlight to be sure) On a california car without rust, I be I could do it in 2 hours. Don't mess with trying to drive it half lifted, just set aside some time or have a plan B and get it all done.

I second the water pump omission. Yet to see one fail. I keep a spare used thermostat in my car as a "just in case" but also have never seen a failed subaru thermostat in normal circumstances. The one I ever HAD to replace was gunked up from someone applying blue devil head gasket sealer without pulling the thermostat or properly idling the motor. Cost them a new thermostat and radiator and the head gaskets still leaked.

Ha! That's worth a good facepalm! At least the job got a whole lot easier. Been there a few times when I take a break and review a problem and find the answer staring me right in the face.

Those 2.5s blow head gaskets and cook rod bearings pretty regularly. Can usually find a good clean one on the cheap with a little patience and perusing of craigslist.

More likely related to that bad diff. I wouldn't give the clutch another thought until the 4.11 is in there and see if the problem persists. All just speculation. If the 3.9 is torn up it could act clutch related. Also check your driveshaft for play when the 4.11 goes in. Driving them mismatched would be as hard on that as anything, so it may need replacing as well. Bad joints on the driveshaft can also feel clutch related.

i know some of you guys know Fords pretty well. This beast was brought home (long story) for $400. in need of a long list. But the interior was dirty but otherwise good. The motor is the big 5.4 Liter Triton V8 and the more robust transmission (I forget which trans code right now) and only 163k on it which isn't bad. And AWD/4WD Feels like a giant Subaru when I first step on the gas. Pulls about the same. I do a bit of towing from time to time and putting lots of wear and tear on my outback I'm sure. Last one was a tow dolly and a 1999 Outback behind my 2000 with a 5 speed. I know this beast wont bat an eye towing a car. or boat. or utility trailer. Plus 3rd row seat so it can take 8 people. So far here's the run down. Replaced the battery and alternator with good used. Battery 1 year old. Alternator was a motorcraft only 2 years old. Ordered the Monroe Coil springs and shocks conversion and ripped out the dying air ride suspension. CLEANED AND CLEANED. it's looking pretty good now. Oil change. Just smogged it yesterday. Numbers lower than my wife's 2011 Outback with 66k. New registration. Got a brush guard off Craigslist for $80. Found mounting brackets for it and some tail light guards in Pick N Pull Still needs. I want to replace fluids in trans and rear end. Probably has a small radiator leak so new radiator. Drivers window wont move. Checked motor, switch, fuses, and a clicking relay and all are good. Can't figure that one. Custom basket rack Going to delete the running boards for a little more clearance. Maybe 33s or 35s. Right now they are about 31 and good shape but still just a little small. Has an extra vibration at low RPMs going up hills mostly. Could be anything from gear oil, to low grade misfire to torque converter. My boy refers to it as "Shuy-Sha" which in toddler means "Big Truck"

Love it! That interior is a blank canvas. document it well. I love seeing these things grow. Killer deal on the price tag too!

Yeah. Get that 4.11 in there and see where you sit. Usually all outbacks and Impreza RS came with 4.11 Clutch clunking could be a few things. Is the clutch new or the same?

x2. Don't skimp on the idlers. On these motors best to do a head resurfacing. There's a DIY writeup to use glass and sand paper for it, or find a decent machine shop. Not sure if Felpro were still the same as Fuji for the MLS gaskets. They certainly were for the 90-98 EJ22, not sure about the EJ25

I did this for a lift on my old 97 Impreza OBS. Yields about 2 inches of lift and will let you clear bigger tires. Stiffened the ride a lot. Hauled lots of weight that way. Rear swaybar will reattach just fine. I never reconnected the front swaybar (didn't need to. I'm not an aggressive driver) You'll want trailing arm brackets from a 97-99 outback as well to keep the rear wheels centered. If you haven't read it yet, there's a sticky in the off road section that covers this pretty thoroughly. Feel free to pm me with any questions when you lift it. I've done it and with a rusty car so I've got most quirks figured out.