AdventureSubaru

Your english is pretty good. Yes, 99 Forester will bolt right in and raise the legacy about 2 1/4 inches. You can cut 1/4inch or 3/8 inch spacers to add just a little more height if you want. A plastic cutting board of that thickness can be cut out with a jigsaw and adds a little extra clearance for only a few dollars. You can clear a 215 75 15 tire with that setup. Stock outbacks were 205 70 15 and ride quite nicely. The combination of lift and bigger tires will net 3 1/2 to 4 inches of total ground clearance gained. Good for most trails and mud/snow.

Good info. I'm going to work with it for a while this afternoon and post back what I find.

The main connectors at the back of the motor?

95 legacy was purchased with EJ22 and 5 speed. Newish clutch and 178k. It starts smooth but after about 60 seconds the idle starts hesitating a bit. When driving it's normal for those first 60 seconds but quickly becomes undriveable under load. bucks all over the place and has no power. Never stalls out though. I crept it over the hill by throttling up and tapping the clutch into 1st gear just going bump, bump, bump about a foot at a time until I could push the clutch and coast down the hill. 6 check engine codes were pulled. p0500 - speed sensor p0505 - idle air control p0420 - anything! p0130 - o2 sensor bank 1 p0133 - slow o2 p0101 - mass air flow Figuring initially that mass air flow would be the most likely and easiest to replace, I put a known good MAF sensor in and cleared the codes. Driving since then, with no change no CEL. Still bucking and gutless and completely tripping over itself. No bubbles in the radiator, coolant loss or anything to suggest head gasket issue. What next? Since I have some spares I may try plugs, wires, coil and see if that helps but it does not feel like the plug wire style of weakness. Maybe blocked fuel filter, pressure regulator, pump? Swap o2 sensors? IACV? Any suggestions on what next? Lots of possibilities so trying to get an order of priority.

You can make more total by selling it off piece by piece but it will be a slow and more labor intensive process. If the body is toast, $200 is a pretty fair offer. You'll end up putting a lot of wrench time in and making $5 or $10 an hour to part it out. I'd take the money and start shopping for a new daily driver, or shop for a good bodied GL, DL Loyale or XT with either a bad motor or trans and use yours as a donor car, then scrap the rest.

A few weeks ago we took it to Southern California to visit family and take an extended weekend away. Took one afternoon and drove up into the San Gabriel Mountains. Temps were well over 100 degrees. We had me, my wife, baby boy as well as my father and brother in law piled in with tools in the back. Temps stayed normal with only once getting above the halfway mark on an hours drive of mostly steep uphill and air conditioning on. I viewed it as a stress test. Saw some great views and even found a small creek that was still flowing. Cold spring water kept lots of vegetation and the small canyon held the cooler temperature of the water so it was quite comfy for some light hiking.

These are solid cars. I had one for a while. Similar to you. Bought it for $250 with a front fender bender and a blown brake line. Trip to the junkyard and had it fixed up and running well. They don't earn a lot of style points but they are comfy and pretty trusty vehicles.

x2. Forester and outbacks both came with the 4.44 final drive. I did the reverse and put an 02 forester trans in my wifes old 2000 outback a few years back. Same trans

Good reputation. Emily is an active member here. If replacing a bad motor on a 90s Subaru - generally best to swap in a good used 2.2 motor and drive. If a remanufactured motor is called for (Old Subarus worth spending bigger bucks on, racing, collectible, VW conversion etc.) the go with CCR.

In these phase 2 motors the head gaskets were the same style. The EJ22 is NOT more reliable in the 1999 and up motors. The 90-98 2.2s were vastly more reliable than the troublesome 96-99 DOHC 2.5s. reliability of the phase 2 2.2s and 2.5s were the same and somewhere in between the earlier EJ motors. A 2.2 swap is fine if you source a cheap phase 2. Otherwise there is no advantage to having one. JDM Ej20 SOHC motors are a good option as they are cheap and still dual port while only sacrificing 10 HP. Or there are way more phase 2 2.5s out there than phase 2 2.2s. Explore all options, but don't hunt specifically for a 2.2. There's nothing in it for you.

Yes, if you swap the 95 tensioner bracket as well. Bolts right up. I reversed it and put 99 stuff in place of a 96 once in a pinch. It all fits and works fine.

It is buyer beware, but I've been ticked off a few times over being lied to and can sympathize. I've bought motors from craigslist twice now since moving to California. Both were sold to me as running motors with no work needed and I was assured they were good runners. One had head gasket leak right off the bat. The other, the timing was trashed and had bent valves. So of course in those situations you feel rightly angered that you were lied to and taken advantage of. But you also bear the responsibility of choosing to take someone at their word with no legal protection. Same goes for cars. We can arm ourselves with the know how and ability to spot bad eggs and sleazy sellers. In the end we have to accept the buyer beware and commit to what it is we're buying and the issues that may be present. We are responsible for who we trust. If we get lied to and have to kick ourselves later, while liars and cheats are still scumbags, it's doom on us for letting ourselves trust them in the first place. That being said, I have had many more transactions in which I trusted a person and they were good to their word. Never had a bad deal until living in California. For the $$$ lost on the few bad deals, I've saved so much more on all the good deals I've had. Sound judgement helps but the system is never perfect. I try to be trusting and it has usually paid off.

What's the advantage? You've already got the more reliable motor without the oil consumption issues of the FB motor. These motors don't historically do well on turbo additions. If you want more power, I'd be looking to get into one with an EZ36

Unless you are noticing a lot of oil consumption, it's very common for these motors to leak a bit of oil as they get into their golden years. My old impreza with 270,000 miles would leak out about a quart between 3000 mile oil changes. I just started adding about 1/3 quart every 1000 miles to maintain the levels and it was fine. A silver lining is that a motor with an oil leak is some of the best rust preventative in existence.

Here is is where we found it in Oakland. The exterior is in need of a good wash and it has a small dent on the drivers fender that should pop out. It spent some time in the midwest and east coast. Has some rust in the rear to prove it. Illinois to Vermont to Oakland California. Soon to be driven to Miami and shipped to Haiti. This car has traveled. But it's the right motor (EJ22!) it's a 96 (Non interference!) and it's a manual (wohoo!) and to boot.... Mechanically it's still a baby. Had two CEL codes. I cleared them before driving home and they have yet to resurface after 72 miles. A small bit of oil leakage at the driver's side valve cover. Maybe the O ring of the oil fill tube. Back brakes are shot. I'll be grinding the rust out on the back end and painting it all over to get it ship shape. I'll be populating a shopping list soon. Big things I can think of so far will be - Oil separator plate and clutch. Rear brake rotors and pads New (used california rust free) rear subframe etc. And the fun modifications for trail worthiness and cargo carrying ability.

No. Quite different. The possibility exists to make an adapter between phase 1 and phase 2 intake manifolds. I believe the sensors are all the same so if there were a way to physically bolt your phase 2 manifold onto the phase 1 long block, it should run. But thats many hours of machining and time=$$$ so the easier route is to find a phase 2 motor and drop it in.

Good suggestions. Skid plate for sure and I may expand the reinforced bumper to add some brush deflection. The car is acquired! Just got home after nearly 5 hours of driving to retrieve the project. It's going to be some work but I'm pretty stoked about it. Low miles and drove it home about 75 miles. Runs smooth, drives straight and had good power. Held 5th gear up a 9 mile steep uphill grade of HWY 17. More pics and description after I get some rest and have some daylight to work with. Spent the afternoon doing some transmission work and I'm beat.

If it's the dual overhead cam 2.5 motor expect head gaskets between now and 150k Maybe a little longer if it's the single overhead cam. As mentioned, timing kit is a good idea soon as standard maintenance to protect the motor. Every other major component is good for a long time.

I'm scratching the dust off because it's been ages since I've done much with 80s cars. But the motors should be the same. If going from mpfi to carb, just swap your intake manifold onto the new long block. Should be cake for those motors as simple as they are. Wait for someone more knowledgeable to confirm this but if memory serves, they should both be EA82 motors and only differ on the stuff associated with the intake manifold.

Wow. This is not the country I once knew. This stuff. Oregon's new "road tax" I work too hard for what little I get to be constantly forking it over for every excuse government can make up to take it from me. California has a lot of head scratch inducing laws that way.

Are we talking like sales tax here? Most states will charge at the point that you register the car based on the sale price. What you describe sounds like an annual type tax like a real estate tax. Which sounds just crazy for a car and I've never seen or heard of after living in 6 different states.

If anyone is curious about their work, here is their website and facebook page. http://www.onegiftonechild.org/ https://www.facebook.com/onegiftonechild?fref=ts

My wife and I have committed to purchasing, building and donating a Subaru to friends of ours who work with some orphanages in Haiti. They have an old Pathfinder that is giving them continual issues and even on their best days is killing their budget on gas mileage. So I am seeking some ideas and thoughts as we go forward with the project. The wagon will need to be trail capable - not a full off roader, but able to handle the rough mountain roads that they have to travel frequently. Spacious - both cargo and passengers. It will not travel empty very much. Durable - Both in mechanical reliability and body. It will be used pretty hard. Bumpers will be bumped plenty. Fuel efficient - Gas is not always easy and never cheap. They operate mostly by donations and other support, so they don't have spare cash laying around. (Really, no one is in this business to make money.) Low budget - My wife and I are not wealthy, but can certainly meet this need. The plan so far is to find a 95-99 Legacy or Outback with motor work needed/blown head gaskets. Then build it into a supremely reliable trail wagon. I've seen projects around from $300-$1500 that fit this bill. Heck, my 2000 started as a $350 heap, so it happens. The plan for it as of now. EJ22 (Probably non interference) motor swap with fresh seals, separator plate and timing kit. Fluid change to tranny and diff. New clutch if a 5 speed. Fresh coolant Water pump and thermostat Weld up a full size basket roof rack spanning from top of windshield to top of hatch for lots of extra cargo carrying ability. Full tune up - plugs, wires, air and fuel filters New brake pads all around. Install a removable 3rd row seat - probably rear facing like the old Volvo wagons so it will carry 7 or 8 passengers Outback or Forester suspension, with 3/8 HDPE spacers and about 27 inch all terrain tires and full size spares. Reinforced front frame and steel bumper. Maybe added fog lights. Trailer hitch maybe Weight reduction where possible to offset the additional weight of modification and cargo. Since access to mechanics and parts is not easy or cheap or fast, I'm going to bring spare parts - plugs, wires, timing idlers, and belts, bulbs, fuses, oil filters, probably a spare alternator, starter and maybe axles. Looking for good ideas and opinions on what I may not have thought of yet. Also considering the following questions and looking for the best way to go. with the rear seat and possibly 5 or 6 people in the rear half of the car, how best to beef up the suspension back there. New KYB struts? Forester struts over outback? What's going to last longest and sag least? Completion by January. I'll drive it to the port in Miami to get it on a ship to its new home. They will be in the states in November so I can get paperwork to them so they can have ownership to take care of importation on their end. A 3100 mile road trip from central California to Miami should be a good stress test and will work out any bugs before I pass it to them. If anyone is wanting or willing to help with this endeavor, we'll be setting up a fund for for it. I'll also have a shopping list once the car is purchased to get it to where it needs to be. If anyone has parts they'd wish to donate or discount for the project it would be much appreciated. Not all of us are meant to go work directly with those in need, but we are equally valuable in supporting and enabling those who do. Our wrenching abilities and know how can have a lot of impact in this way when our time and money are given to such people.

I should also add that there is no advantage to the EJ22 for phase 2 motors (99 and up) Pre 99 the EJ22 was a far more reliable motor. 2000 and on it was no more or less reliable. Both the EJ22 and EJ25 motors were far more reliable than the Phase 1 DOHC ej25 but a bit less reliable than the phase 1 ej22

Glad you found this! I looked up the link to e-mail you but looks like you got here first. Sold this car over the weekend to begin it's next chapter so I can focus on other things. Much as I would have loved to fix it back up, I just don't have the time and space.