AdventureSubaru

A 2000-2004 EJ22 will fit if you get the single port exhaust y pipe and you keep the EJ25 intake manifold. You'll have more options looking for a late 99-2004 EJ25. Or get a JDM EJ20 SOHC. it's only 10hp less than the EJ25 and you can get one with under 60,000 miles for $800 if you shop around. They are also dual port exhaust. Found one locally here in CA in oakland for $650. Just swap intake manifold and drivers side cam and crank pulleys With any motor you swap in there, keep the drivers side cam and crank pulleys as these varied from year to year and model to model and the marks on the back need to match the engine computer. These SOHC motors are easy though. I have motor swaps down to about 5 hours for remove and reinstall

Trying to chase this down now that I have my new code scanner. Pulled codes P0507 and P1507 both dealing with idle air control. Swapped a used IACV motor. Replaced the throttle body gasket with a used one as well since the throttle body was slick and wet. Seems like oil/coolant or both may be getting in somewhere? suspected either a leak or failure. Cleared the codes and started the car. Still white smoke. CEL came on within about 20 seconds with the p0507. Idled high and dropped to normal as soon as the CEL came on. What next? I have about 3 full intake manifolds so I can take a shotgun approach to some things. Fuel injectors, coil, plugs, fuel pressure regulator..... Anyone have any other suggestions or starting points. I feel responsible for getting this car on the road since I told my friend I'd help him with the motor swap and save this thing.

For EJ22s from 1990-98 head resurfacing is optional. If you don't think the engine was overheated, there's no need to resurface. No need to replace head bolts either unless they are rusted or something. You can usually look at the seams of the head gaskets on the top of the block and see if they are newish or not. No need to shell out $250. for Subaru OEM gaskets for that year. The Fel-Pro gaskets are the same part for $25. each from Oreillys and other parts chains. Unless you are absolutely DUMPING coolant out somewhere, cold heat would indicate low coolant or a blocked line/heater core. Not headgasket troubles. This is not a common problem at all for 90-98 EJ22s. Unless overheated, the head gaskets are usually good for 300k and more. Step one is to get the cooling lines figured out. Do what you have to do to get the heat working. You may have blockage or a failed heater core that can cause a slow leak. Once you've solved this and you have good heat and all, look for constant bubbles in the coolant overflow to indicate head gasket issues. Unless they used cheapo graphite head gaskets from ebay or something, or lied about doing them, you've probably got something else making things go buggy.

x2. If the weight is displaced, the rack will hold double that, But if 200 pounds is in one of those cargo carriers and you rear end someone at 35+ you may be firing a torpedo off the top of your car.

What brand and model? And how much tread life left on yours?

$500. is the cheapest you can expect a shop to do it and anything under $1000 is reasonable given the prices of shop labor nowadays. If you can find a set of helping hands or two that are somewhat mechanical and bribe them with pizza and beverages etc. (Bartering is the way to go.) it's a one day job for a do it your selfer. A few 2x4s and some metal castor wheels with a come along make a great cherry picker. Seen engines hoisted out of cars off of tree branches too. It's not a bad job. If you can find a space to work on it for a day, I can give you a few tips to make the whole thing go smooth. I've got the job down to about 4 hours solo for a removal and reinstall. Add an hour for a timing belt kit or two for head gaskets on a SOHC motor.

They would only give more height if your current struts are blown. Options would be 1 inch hub spacers which would let you clear a slightly larger tire. Go up a tire size or two as is. Use a measuring tape to see how tall and wide a tire you can stuff in there without rubbing. Outback struts/springs - far and away your best option. Gives about 2 inches right away and will give you a couple more depending on tire size and can clear up to a 28 inch tire if you so choose. - regardless of axle warranty. If they are good axles they will last a long time. If they are chinese made, you'd be swapping them every 3-6 months anyway until you buy good ones. And remember that axles are the same for both legacy and outback and that outback struts are quite stock. I don't see how anyone could hassle you on that as you are still within stock specifications and OEM parts. Strut top spacers which would give you height but not clear bigger tires. You can cut up to 3/8 inch HDPE spacers without knocking the stock bolts out. Up to 1 inch if you replace the strut top bolts with longer ones. And then any size after that in steel lift brackets.

Have you checked the code recently? Off the top of my head, coolant temperature sensors can cause warm start issues, but get codes checked first. Autozone, oreillys etc. will check codes for free.

You wont find a converter to go from 5 to 8 lug wheels. If it is one of those "universal" 4 lug rims it will have 2 sets of 4 lug holes and will likely fit on a 4x100 then you could find adapters to fit. Usually far easier to just find a good set of the correct size for the car though. For the cost of the spacers you can find a good set of Subaru rims and tires. A few chryslers and VWs and GM cars also run the 5x100 pattern. Rims on my old impreza were off a chrysler sebring. Chevy cavalier, pontiac sunfire, dodge neon all run it.

whoops. You're right.Got the wrong years in my head. 96 was single port exhaust but still non interference. 97 was the start of interference motors.

Ebay tends to have good selections on used tires for mostly reasonable prices. Especially if your tires are a more common brand and model, you should be able to find the same make and model tire in a similar tread depth to what's on your car. Done this a few times to get full size spares to carry with me.

Engine code should point you in the right direction. Get that code or codes and post back. Start with new plugs and wires. The fact that it's different during rain/wet tells you it's electrical in nature. If the problem persists could be failing mass air flow, knock sensor, coil or o2 sensors. A few other things like coolant temperature sensor can make it run rough. But yes, at 220,000 unless you're getting metal shavings in your oil or severe overheating or rod knock, this motor should have lots of life left. EJ18 was not the most powerful motor subaru made but certainly one of, if not the most dependable. Seen a few over 400,000 myself. Worth doing a little work to keep a dependable car on the road.

The rims will fit, but your tire size will be the limiting factor. If your car is dragging that much, your car would be a great candidate for a set of outback struts. You can swap the whole assemblies from a 96-99 outback for a couple inches of suspension lift and then clear a 27 inch tire for some good ground clearance.

It's been talked about a few times on here, but the more people are reminded the better. The general rule is to just keep the cam and crank sprockets to match the car as you go. Sorry it took so much frustration to discover that but glad you've got the car back on the road again.

Welcome! Post up some pics! the 2000-2004 generation were great work horses. I drive a 2000 outback and love it.

https://www.facebook.com/danmengedoht/videos/10153704946430676/ This little video could save lives. Simple and effective way to claw out of a bind. Branches, 2x4 etc and ratchet strap/bungees/rope or cord.

Gonna head to pick n pull tomorrow. I'll aim for a 96-98 trans. Solenoids should be the same from 90-98 though right?

I've only had to drop the trans pan once before and that was several years ago. Is it as simple as going to a pick N pull, and pulling the wires and solenoids out of there? I'm trying to picture what the connections look like and how easily it would be pulled.

Good used caliper is about $20-$30 from a junkyard or auto dismantler. Easy job. Takes 30 minutes if there's not a ton of rust.

02 Outback with EJ25 (now EJ20) and 365k on the body. My buddy said his motor had a head gasket leak. Motor was a junkyard motor of unknown mileage installed about a year ago. Was puffing constant clouds of white smoke and he said was also taking coolant. I helped him install a low miles <60k JDM EJ20 SOHC yesterday. We didn't finish until well after dark. Started the car and it runs smooth. White smoke continued. I figured it would dissipate after a bit. Would burn off stuff from sitting and whatever was left in the exhaust from the last motor. it went down a little but after about 10 minutes at idle I popped the hood and saw the ring around the 02 sensor and the front of the cat were glowing orange. We shut the car off to let it cool off. Only drove it 1/4 mile to the parking spot. Motor seems fine and is not running hot. White smoke billows out the exhaust. Cat and o2 ring glowing. No CEL yet but may pop up. Not misfiring as best I can tell. Am I looking at blocked cats? Bad injectors? Coil? Wanting to have a game plan before throwing any parts at it. I have spare intake manifolds and associated stuff. Cats are expensive.

#2 for these reasons Head gasket issue should be taken care of with replacement. Better ground clearance than the white legacy and outback options of fog lights etc for dark trails. It's of the generation where parts are more readily available than the 05+ from junkyards etc. and is thus much less expensive to maintain. These are great hunting and fishing rigs. I use mine regularly for both.

Usually a failing mass air flow sensor. This is exactly what happened on my 97. Car had hesitation intermittently for a while which eventually became stalling. Will not throw a check engine code. Replaced the MAF sensor and all was smooth again.

there's a hybrid gasket made by cometic. part# H1631SPK040S or you can modify regular ones. Haven't done this personally but it's same thing as head gasket job for a SOHC

Do a search on here for frankenmotor for more options. Phase 1 ej22 heads on your block make a high compression motor with SOHC heads. Or just source a good phase 1 EJ22 and go with the bullet proof reliability they bring. Especially on an Impreza, the power of the ej22 is plenty.

02 and knock sensors can do that, but typically will throw a check engine code. If no check engine light - plugs/wires and possibly the IACV or MAF. If there is a check engine light it may point in the right direction. Most national parts stores like auto zone, oreillys etc. will pull the code for free.