AdventureSubaru

Rear swaybars will still connect easy. Fronts can be driven disconnected, or you can just get longer links for the ends. Kartboy is the source many have used. The swaybars have tabs that bolt them to the subframe. Easy to remove. Also - I grew up in Wernersville and later Mohnton PA. We live up near Erie now, but still had to say "Hello neighbor!"

I believe you are right. The Ej22s of these years still had a Mass air flow vs. MAP on the 2.5s, but thats just my observation. What can be done with the phase 2 EJ22s is an intake manifold swap which was not an option on the Phase 1. You bolt the 2.5 intake manifold to the 2.2 (And swap in a single port Y pipe and drive) As mentioned though, unless you already have a good phase 2 Ej22 laying around there's no benefit to the swap on phase 2s. Usually it goes the other way. When a 2.2 fails in a phase 2 impreza or legacy it is usually replaced with a 2.5

For a phase 1 yes. the 1990-98 EJ22 is the one worth swapping in place of the less reliable phase 1 EJ25 (DOHC) which had more reliability issues on failed head gaskets and rod bearings. Swapping from phase 2 to phase 1 and vice versa is not an easy task. For your application - Phase 2+ the EJ25 is more plentiful, powerful and reliable than Phase 2 Ej22s (Which ended around 2002) If you happened to have a cheap/free phase 2 Ej22 it would be fine to swap. Otherwise there is nothing to gain from swapping one or frankenmotoring one. Stick with stock and move forward.

Since you're in California, Row52.com and Car-part.com will be very helpful in locating an XT6 for the more difficult parts.

bet the smell is different between the two as well.

I'm curious about this. You may want to start a thread on this subject alone and document which brands were used, what you did to them and how long they have lasted under various conditions. As parts for these older cars get more scarce, the more options we have for keeping them on the road reliably, the better. if this is another good long term solution it will be music to many ears.

All correct. The 3 main variables for axle life on a lifted car 1. Initial quality of the axle. (Aftermarkets are well documented as failing often and early.) 2. The strain put on it by the steepness of the lift. 3. How it's driven. Its interesting that you've extended the life of some of your aftermarkets by regreasing and booting yourself. If more folks tried that with similar results we might be on to something. You could try as Ferp420 mentioned and see what happens. OEMs though are tried and true across the board as being the cheaper and most reliable way to go.

Good call. Nothing the welder cant fix.

Looks pretty normal overall. A torn CV boot will throw axle grease all over the backside and bottom of the heads. Probably what you're seeing in some places. Sounds like you're covering the common leak spots. Leave the rear main seal alone. Some get tempted to replace it while they have the motor out or due to a little oil weeping. but more often than not, they leak if they're replaced. Yours looks clean.

If you're looking at a trade, be most picky about the body. H6s of this generation are of the age that the motor can be replaced with a used unit cheaply enough. The H6 is really no more difficult to swap than any of the EJ motors. Just a little tighter a fit lifting and lowering. It's a good strong motor. trade off of being a little more reliable than the EJ25 of same years but being a little more difficult/expensive to repair when it does need it. The weight of the Subaru is as much a limitation as horsepower. I towed several subarus with my EJ25 equipped 2000 outback and the only difference is that the H6 could probably climb the hills a little faster. Occasional towing (even of the SVX) would be fine if you are careful and have good experience towing/know your limits. I've pushed the limits of towing with a Subaru several times, but adjusted my driving accordingly. Even when it meant driving from Texas to Ft lauderdale Florida with a top speed of 50mph on flat surfaces. 45mph downhill. If you want simple towing though (probably safer too) an old full size Chevy or Ford can be found for $500-$1000 pretty readily. Vans are oft overlooked in favor of trucks but I loved my old Ford Econoline 150 conversion van. Was great for towing. Fit a ton of stuff inside and doubled as a camper on long trips.

I've had them look it up by name/phone number on brake pads. i think they take the info down for the warranty info. Especially if you have a rewards account its worth trying.

Usually they come with lifetime warranty. See if you can just exchange it. Heard mixed reviews on those brands. Duralast etc.

Any dual port Y pipe from a non turbo 1990-2004 EJ18/20/22/25 (And probably newer) will work. I have one from a 95 if you need it for $20 + shipping. You can likely get one cheaper/faster at a U pull it yard.

Sounds like a double whammy. Aftermarket axles and peak suspension lift without the subframe spacers. If it were just aftermarket axles, you'd be okay. Or 2 inch suspension lift on OEM axles. Neither would last forever, but certainly much longer than you're experiencing. If these heavy duty ones fail, I'd switch to re-booted used OEM axles, or drop the subframes, or both going forward. you should notice a big difference.

Every time I've experienced this it's been a failing/failed alternator.

Also, if your car came equipped with an EJ22 it is likely a single port exhaust. You'll want to get the dual port Y pipe to match. Hopefully a yard has it. If you have trouble I think I have one around somewhere.

Yeah. Cheap and easy fix. They last a while though, so maybe there's a good set at the u-pull it to save a bit. Simplest is to get new intake manifold gaskets and bolt your intake manifold onto the 93 long block. Exhaust manifold gaskets too unless the old ones are in excellent condition.

93 is good. Non interference. My experience is that most yards are negotiable. If you tell them that you'll jump in the car and come get it if they'll take $300 they'll often say yes. Nobody likes sitting on inventory for long and they probably spent about $300 on the whole car, so there's incentive to let things go.

General Grabber AT2s are my favorite on Subarus. With Outback or forester suspension you can fit 215/70/15s and 225/70/15s by simply removing the mud flaps.

Everything through about 2012+ will fit. They switched for some imprezas and such but almost all subarus from 1990-present are 5x100 rims. I've got a 15 inch Chevy cavalier full size spare for my 98 legacy and used to run Chrysler 5x100 rims on my 97 Impreza.

Sounds similar to when my MAF sensor was failing. If you have access to a good used one, I'd swap it and see.

I'll check on my 98 tomorrow to see if it's the same. Not an exact science though. Run that ground on a bolt to the intake manifold and if that's the culprit you will notice a difference.

I'm a big fan of the BFG ATs. On my toyotas they've outlived other brands by about 2 to 1. They're a good both off/on road tire. General Grabbers have also performed well. it's tough to go wrong when putting big tires on Subarus though. Since the subies are much lighter than the trucks/SUVs that they were intended for the tread life seems to last longer.

Timing belt yes. Head gaskets - no. Learn the symptoms to look for to spot it before it overheats. But get the full life from them. What year is your car?

Drivers side wheel well. It's tucked in pretty tight. White plug with 4 wires. You can usually find it by removing the trunk stuff and reaching under the interior piece. Curt makes an easy extension for towing.