AdventureSubaru

Exedy is the way to go for subaru clutches. I think you're on the right track. be sure to double check that the final drive is the same on the new transmission as the old so it's a direct bolt in. Or get the rear diff from the donor car as well. I was wondering how long the clutch would last. Off roading a manual trans sube is do-able but I end up riding the clutch a lot.

That thing is a beast.

Wait for a better deal. it's not outrageous, but with some patience and a little negotiation, you can get great deals via craigslist etc. Especially if you buy one needing repair. I got my current 2000 Outback for $350. in need of a trans and clutch. Found a used trans for $100. on craigslist, bought a new clutch disc and have an awesome runner for about $500 and a days worth of wrenching. Deals come along and are worth waiting for. With 200k and torque bind it sounds more like a $1000 car.

Great price even with the "to do" list. Definitely get those codes pulled. Autozone or about any chain store will get them for you for free. I am guessing the alternator is beginning to fail for number 1. Check and clean up the contact points for battery and alternator and inspect the cables. A $20-$40 one from a junkyard is just fine for replacement. If it does fail it can leave you stranded. Follow the codes based on what they say and you'll probably find your idle issue solved. If not start looking at fuel filter etc.

Start with wires. These motors are hard on them. Use NGK or subaru ideally. I have some known good coils if it comes to that, but most likely it's wires.

Tried Tans-X yet? If it's delayed engagement it will do the trick. If it's something else, you're only out six bucks. Took care of my wife's old car in 30 minutes and we drove it that way another 60k before selling the car.

Sounds like you got an awesome deal. Welcome!

Can't say for sure. it would be close. You could always put a set of 1 inch 5x100 hub spacers on to clear the difference.

Lol. Also heard them called "Mall crawlers" Lot's of them around here. Seen some really nice rigs done well that have never seen a day of dirt in their life. Love the roof rack. This is the sort of thing that set subies apart from another toyota or jeep - we do it ourselves and usually have to figure out the process along the way. A lot of creativity goes into our cars since there's no mass manufacturing for subaru "off road" products. Thus each car has it's own very unique personality and plenty of blood, sweat, tears and confusion invested into it. Each off road car is a small work of art and can tell you a lot about the guy or gal who built it. I like the direction yours is going. Also good to see another sube with kayaks on the roof.

Just passed 225k and a fresh oil change. About to do timing kit, water pump and a few other little odds and ends. Took my brother and a work buddy on a kayak/shark fishing trip. Car performed well. Got a couple small sharks but nothing enough to make for the "sleigh ride" we're hoping for. Hopefully after the weather gets a little warmer. Great scenery though!

Good price. I'd jump on it. However, that 2.5 motor was known for problems. I'd put the 2.2 in there instead. Direct bolt in, a little less power but FAR more reliable.

Didn't know the first gen were different. Good to know. And yeah. I drilled my Impreza for it's lift and bounced it all over the mountains, forged through rivers, towed big loads for it with no issue. Drill away.

As I understand it for the EJ series cars and probably beyond there is distinctions between manual trans starters and auto trans starters but a starter from a 91 should fit a 2001 and vice versa. (And further beyond as fox mentioned) I'm not speaking from first hand knowledge but I don't think there's any difference in EJ starters except whether it fits a manual or automatic.

Are you saying you shift the trans into drive (or reverse) and nothing happens? If so - the issue is known as "delayed forward engagement" and Trans-X is your fix. Any car parts chain store should have it. It has solved this problem numerous times on these late 99-2001 transmissions including my wifes old 2000 Outback. Do a search on here for trans-x / delayed forward engagement and you'll see the write ups. If we're talking popping out of gear/slippage etc. then it's something else. But if the trans simply doesn't go into gear, the trans X will take care of it and seems to need renewed about once a year. I think you're looking at a $6. fix and not a new/used transmission.

Yep. They are widely used on these cars with good feedback.

Sounds like you got lucky. If I were you, I'd try and get a compression test for that motor. Or they can test the coolant for exhaust gasses. Having that peace of mind would be great just to be sure. Are you still pulling the motor on this one? Could be one of the simplest fix and flips since it sounds like you've got a complete and good running car now. A shame to cannibalize a perfectly good Outback.

Good to go. And you may enjoy slightly better gas mileage than if it were running AWD.

Almost all dealers get their cars from auto auctions or trade ins so no cause for concern on that. traditional wisdom is to check fluids - engine, transmission, center (If auto) and rear differential, coolant and brakes. Standard places to watch are the external head gasket leak that was fairly common to these motors and if done right on the first fix should last the life of the motor thereafter. Also check timing belt. They are due for replacement at 110,000 miles. If done at that interval you are good to 200k. If it hasn't been done, they could fail at any time and you'll be looking at a big repair bill. Gates timing kits with water pump are about $150. on amazon right now. Legacy and Outback will share almost all parts. Impreza and Forester share mostly the same drivetrain parts but had different body parts.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html This is by far the best writeup on how to do it. Only difference is that you will have a clutch cable to detach instead of a cylinder and your wiring harnesses will be on the drivers side of the motor. It looks long. It kinda is long, but no one step in there is very difficult. Exedy is the best clutch kit out there for subaru but if you're looking to save $$$ I've had good experience so far with 2 banhof clutches off ebay. Your issue may be a busted/bent clutch fork in which case I have a spare one floating around in the garage or find a good used one from a pick n pull etc. You can have a buddy push the clutch pedal and look for movement on the clutch fork to see if it's moving as it should or flopping around/stuck.

Swapping the EZ30 is the exact same process as any of the EJ cars. It's basically an EJ25 with an added row of cylinders. I was surprised and pleased at how easy it was when I did the 06. Same caution with the 4EAT transmission. Make sure the torque converter is fully seated or it kills the trans. But same swap, just a little tighter fit in the engine bay.

Can't cross 90s stuff with 2000+ without a ton of work/wiring splicing or fabrication. 220k is not bad for the H6. (Or almost any subaru motor) Depending how badly it overheated I'd do the HGs. If you think it got cooked, scrap it. but don't let that mileage scare you. When I was scouting for an EZ30 for my wifes 06 car I found a few good 2000-04 EZ30s at reasonable prices. Scouting craigslist, U-pull-its and car-part.com etc. can probably yield a good motor for less than you'd expect. I think I saw one for about $450 out here.

Autozone, O'reilly and advance auto at least will scan the codes for free. Napa too I think

Bad plug wires. Especially if it is worse on cold/wet/humid days and better on warmer dryer days. Best for Subaru is NGK or Subaru OEM. Usually a good idea to do spark plugs at the same time. NGK brand again. Both are routine maintenance that will make the car run poorly/misfire if they are not changed at proper intervals and begin to fail. Check for oil in the plug wells and clean it if it's there. There are little rings that come as a set with valve cover gaskets that solve this if oil is present.

Any idea how recently the rad hoses and such were changed? The one other possibility to those bubbles is if the system has a leak/wasn't burped and there's air in the system working out again as it pressurizes. Could very well be head gaskets but before pulling the motor I would spend a good bit of time burping every last possible bubble out of there to see if it evens out. If not, still sounds like you got a great deal even if is going to require some work to get it ready.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-12-LEGACY-PASSENGER-SIDE-VIEW-MIRROR-POWER-HEATED-W-O-TURN-SIGNALS-163897-/351252410585?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2012|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3AOutback&hash=item51c84670d9&vxp=mtr Looks like it's still about the same process. Pop the plastic cover on the inside. usually a few 10mm bolts to remove the mirror after the cover s off. Disconnect the wiring harness and then install the new one in reverse order. Ebay seems to have a few aftermarket ones as well as original used. If yours is painted to match the car it's worth hunting for a matching color via ebay and car-part.com. If not a body shop can match and paint it. Or you can get a spray can made in the same paint color as your car from automotive paint supply stores and paint to match.