AdventureSubaru

They bolt on as a functional motor. If you use 90s heads on a 2001 block it will bolt into any 90-99 Legacy/Impreza and 97 Forester. The motor will not be compatible with 2000 and newer without quite a bit of modification. (Double the workload if you want to make it work without a permanent check engine light) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150509-97-ej22-into-99-forester/?hl=2000&do=findComment&comment=1263527 .

fans or temp sensor wouldn't account for coolant loss. Wet drivers side suggests you have a leak. Soak a white rag, or tissues/toilet paper to see if you can ID it by color/scent. (Probably greenish and smelling like coolant) Chances are you have a leak or a failing heater core. it's a bit of a pain to get to but not the worst fix. Follow the two cooling hoses as they pass through the firewall into the interior. Get flexible and shine a flashlight up under the dash. Start pulling your console apart and dig in and find your leak.

Yep. swap them both and you're golden.

Clutch is fine. Everything is the same and will bolt right up. Different cars came with different final drive ratios and that must be a match between the trans and rear diff. The general rule is that Legacy Outback , GT and Impreza RS are the same (4.11). And Impreza (Non RS and Legacy non GT or Outback) are the same. (3.90) http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart Match the trans codes to the chart to see what yours is and what potential donors are. Gearing can be different but the final drives must match. Or swap a matching rear diff as well.

I'd confirm that the timing is off before going into it further. They can slip a tooth and the engine will run but just barely. Pull the timing covers and see if the timing marks align. If they don't, then go ahead and do the timing job. Here's a really good writeup on how to do it for the SOHC motors. It's not a bad job. Takes an hour or two for those of us who have done them. The first time is maybe 3 hours. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t154453-diy-sohc-timing-belt-change-w-pics.html If you're going to do the timing job, I recommend you replace with a whole kit and not just the tensioner. It's not expensive. gates kits run about 150 with water pump and more like 120 without. Good peace if mind down the road and less wrenching. Be aware that your motor is interference and if it slipped timing there's possible valve damage. Not sure how fickle they are as I've never had an interference motor slip timing yet. If you do proceed with a timing job No check engine light or anything? if it slipped a tooth you should get a cam/crank sensor code. How good are your plugs and wires? How new is your MAF? also likely possibilities for a sudden drop in engine performance.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ptd/4772175035.html The motor in that forester for example would be a match. May get you started/thinking

Bajas are doing great on value. And if it's a car you want to take into retirement, then well worth sticking with it. if you do some hunting and a bit of research, you can find a good longblock or used motor for these cars without busting the bank. I think 2000-2004 are drop in or extremely close (I think 00 and 01 needed the pulleys from the newer car swapped over. I have bought/sold and witnessed a number of good motors of this generation sell from $300-$800 and you can get them all day from auto dismantlers for $1200-$1500. As has been mentioned, if the original head gaskets have already been replaced it's a plus. before install you could do timing stuff/water pump (Gates kit is around $150.) and seals if needed. Craigslist is great for bargains. car-part.com is great for sourcing local yards. the more shopping you do, the more you can save. I do the work myself, but I have done several engine or transmission transplants with tune ups/timing for under $500 all in. And agreed with the consensus here. Anyone who is qualified to take money from you for a timing belt change should know to change the idlers/pulleys at the same time. They are not expensive parts. Bout $80-$90 for the set. Sounds like they cut corners and gambled with your motor and your money. I would at the very least get a written report of the failure by the existing mechanic and bring it to the offending one and see what they can do. Threaten to contact BBB, and write reviews on Yelp, Google etc. Sad news, but if it's done right this time, you wont have to worry about oil leaks, timing or anything for a long time. Get a solid motor in there and drive.

I'm pretty sure you can use the EJ25 wiring on the EJ22. The position and wiring harnesses to cam and crank sensor etc. are the same. Double check the connectors to IACV, ignition coil and TPS as there are some subtle differences. If they dont match, you can either splice wires or swap over that component.

Check your ATF fluid is always a starting point. Right level, right color, no burning smell. Can almost guarantee that the tire = your vibration. And yes, get matching tires or something with 1/4 inch diameter of what's on your car. Chances are your larger issue was discovered and will be solved by the tire replacement. Keep an eye one the trans but the vibration should be fixed now.

What's your access to parts like? And your ability/location to work on it? My one question that I would want answered is the low coolant. Confirm that the headgaskets are not the cause. If you're not already versed in them, do some searches on here. Or have a compression test done/have a mechanic with their fancy toys check it. If no headgasket issues, it sounds like a decent price. These cars are selling for 5-8k around me in good running condition. Assume the worst about some of the other stuff and it's still not terrible if you're comfortable turning a wrench. Vibration - sounds like driveshaft. If you can find one in a U-pull it they ballpark is $30-$50 for a replacement. Double that from a dismantler and about 30 minutes under the car to swap it out. Could be rear diff. A little more work and cost than driveshaft. Could be failing axle. Not a bad fix at all. Sounds like the car is not one that you would want to instantly rely on for daily driving. But if you have something else to drive while you spend some time and $$$ then it may be a good choice. The price is right. And if you speculate the possible issues with him, you can probably get that price down. If it were me (Who has space to work on a car, no fear of taking things apart and reliable transportation already) If no headgasket issues - I'd explain to the guy the issues I found with it. Tell him I'd be interested in it as a fixer upper but given the time/cost/hassle of it that I'd be in for more like $2000. Throwing a good ballpark number like that can get things going. He may surprise you and take it. He may counter offer. Who knows. But that's just me.

Plug wires. This is exactly the behavior you expect from failing plug wires. Bogs down under 2500-3000 RPM and then acts like nothing is wrong. If you can tell that it's worse on rainy/humid days is also a dead giveaway. Subaru or NGK are best but cheapo set should fix it but not last as long.

x2. My wife has been driving an 06 LL Bean for about 6 months now. Head gasket issues are few and far between. Timing chain and water pump designed to last the life of the motor. Spark plugs are a bit of a bear to do in the car. And I've heard that bearings on the alt and AC tensioners wear out quickly but there's a thread somewhere on inexpensive Napa parts that replace them over the expensive Subaru OEM I did a motor swap on our 06 (Bought it with a bad motor.) I think it's your usual 4EAT trans. If the transmission doesn't last it would be because of aggressive driving habits and not a fault in the trans. The EZ30 is powerful and being AWD you don't feel it like you would in a mustang so it's probably pretty easy to thrash the tranny if you aren't careful. Her car with EZ30 and auto easily accelerates over the steep mountains passes around here while my 2000 with the EJ25 and 5MT chugs it's way over in 3rd gear. You'll love it. They drive really nicely. Just treat it with a little extra care as motors are more expensive than the EJ and tighter to work on.

If that video contained all your noise, I wouldn't be worried. Sounds like a typical tappy EJ motor to me. 150 miles is usually enough for the HLAs to quiet down. Some don't and can be replaced. Exhaust leaks are easy. Drive it for a while. Keep listening, but my guess is that you're worrying too much about relatively normal subaru clatter.

Putting the finishing touches on an EJ22 swap into a 97 outback and have just about everything stitched back together. But coming off the IACV I have about 4 inches of cooling hose that leads to nowhere. I cut a few hoses removing the intake manifold etc. from a 95 legacy to mate to the 93 long block that was installed. I looked at pics of these motors and IACVs. Did a few searches. Shines a flashlight all over but can't find where that hose is supposed to connect. Everything else looks pretty good to go. Can someone take a look at their car and see where the other end of that thing connects. Wasted over an hour on what should only take 10 seconds of the reinstall.

Welcome! Do some searches and read up in the off road section of the forum. All your questions should be answered there. The lift/tire combo thread should show some examples of EA82 cars like yours with a variety of tire sizes in your ballpark. If I recall correctly, with a 4 inch lift and a bit of trimming you should be able to clear those 29s.

Yep. Same part. At 100k plus, I'd stick with conventional oil. For the torque converter, have the "pitch rod stopper/Dog Bone/upper trans mount disconnected and jack the trans up before pulling the motor. If so, the torque converter should stay seated. You can measure from the back of the starter hole. Should be 1/8 of an inch between the bellhousing and torque converter. If the converter comes out with the motor, slide it back in. (make sure the metal tube is attached to the back of it) Hold the nub in the center to keep it level while rotating it clockwise. There are 3 different little clunks before it is seated 100%.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t154453-diy-sohc-timing-belt-change-w-pics.html This writeup got me through my first 2 timing jobs before I could do it by memory. It's as easy as it looks. The crank pulley can be stubborn but starter bump method works just fine. I know there are a few good youtube videos on the subject as well. I think MilesFox has one somewhere for the 2.2

Do nothing with registration/insurance. It wont make any difference. I have a set of timing covers I'll sell you but I'm out of town until after the new year. PM me if interested. What's the mileage on the ej22? I think synthetic is a waste of money on these cars. Use any decent oil and keep it topped off as these motors inevitably leak. Change it every 3000 miles. Anything else is overkill and I've heard negative effects of using synthetics on engines over 75-100k If the coolant passages are real ugly, you can clean them, but if it's just the usual white residue, just run it. Auto or manual trans? If auto - be sure you have the torque converter seated properly or you can destroy the pump. If manual - are you replacing the clutch while in there? Great swap. Done it a few times. A little less power. WAAAAY more reliability.

Gates is a well respected brand for these cars. Ebay, Amazon and roackauto all have similar prices. And x2 on the water pump. It's about $30. more and only a little extra time invested. If you weren't already aware - your motor in non interference so no risk in doing yourself. Easy job takes about 2 hours if you've worked on cars before but first time doing the job. There's a really good photo/writeup I can share if you'd like.

Is that tube still clipped to the trans? I had this issue recently. the torque converter came out and seperated from the long tube insert thingy (I don't know what they call it.) Basically, there's a metal tube that clips on the back of the torque converter. You need the TC, the tube and the little clip (Wherever it landed. Searched 10 minutes through leaves on the last one. once it's clipped to the TC, slide it onto the shaft. Hold the TC level by the nub that sticks out of the center. Rotate clockwise while gently pushing it back to the trans. There are 3 seperate little clunks as it goes in. Once seated you should have only about 1/8 of an inch between the bellhousing and the back of the TC. You can look through the starter hole. 1/8 of an inch is seated. 1/4 inch is not. When the engine is installed, the flexplate bolts will pull the TC forward a bit.

If you can match same size, same brand/model and similar tread depth , go for it. There are several used tire dealers on ebay who ship for free. try and get in the same ballpark on tread depth. A tire with little tread remaining matched to one nearly new could possibly cause problems. If you aren't familiar with tread measurements 11/32 is new for most and goes down from there so a tire with 5 or 6/32 tread is about halfway through it's life.

Replaced the thermostat with one from Subaru. Bought a radiator cap, but couldn't get it to fit on the rad. maybe a difference between the Ej25 and EZ30 radiators? the thermostats were the same part #. Drove home last night and the temperature gauge never read above halfway, so I think it's in the clear.

I'll pick up a new Tstat and radiator cap tomorrow. There's a dealership 10 minutes down the road that should have factory parts. Will be carrying extra coolant and keeping AC off on the way home until I'm confident it's 100% Any other possibilities / precautions?

The dead giveaway for plug wires is if the acceleration issues and all are worse on rainy/humid days than clear sunny ones. Also the issues tend to show as the engine will sputter but then clear up above 3000 rpm

Seen a number of subie motors fail this way. rod tears loose and puts a hole in the block right behind the alternator. In theory, you could get a 2.2 or 2.5 shortblock, do a headgasket job and drive. Likely easier and better to just source a good used ej18 or ej22 and drop it in. I've had good luck with a few motors from pick n pull. most recently scored a 93 2.2 with 88k that had an insurance sticker on the car indicating it ran during their black friday 50% off sale. $110. for a full motor and accessories out the door. Can't beat that. Craigslist has also been invaluable. Got a $100. transmission to put in my 2000 Outback and a good 2.2 motor and spare set of heads for my buddys outback for $120.