AdventureSubaru

Got 1 and 2 taken care of. It all came back to me. Used a pair of thin flat head screwdrivers to pull it out. Clipped it in and the TC seated just like it should. Less than 1/8 of an inch from the bellhousing. Shaft went in with a little more push. (The pic was not of my car.) Good to know. Was hoping to avoid having to do any seals. This car was had for just over $300. and with a pick n pull 2.2 dropped in, it should be a great DD on a budget for him.

Helping a friend do a 2.2 swap into a 96 Outback. Pulled the motor and the TC came out with it. It's been years since I last did this. Two things went wrong as we tried to re-seat the torque converter. 1. This thing (Whatever it's called) - slid back into the transmission and I'm not sure how to pull it back out again so the TC can get lined up over the notches on it. 2. The input shaft in the center pulled out about 2 inches. I tried to gently push it back in and rotated it a bit, but it seems to want to stay about an inch further out than it was. 3rd question is that a small trickle of ATF came out of the trans and pooled at the bottom of the bellhousing. Is that normal? Or are we needing to replace a seal? Thanks in advance. Ready to put this car back on the road.

Likes - Simple to work on.- roadside fixes can almost always happen Ground clearance and AWD/4WD makes them very trail and snow capable - especially with a little lift or modification. Affordable - a cheapo $500. (or often less) car can last you 10 years+ and 100,000 miles+. Not so for most other makes. Parts can be swapped between models and years very fluidly. Makes up for the lack of aftermarket options. Brotherhood/Sisterhood - We can disagree about politics, religion, child raising practices and the like, but if you drive a subaru, we are buddies. USMB and similar boards - folks are very willing to lend advice and helping hands. I feel this has more to do with that brotherhood/sisterhood than just loyalty to a brand. Subarus are great products but the people you meet and share experiences with are what make it stick. The expressions of folks as you drive by in a lifted station wagon. (Or assist a stuck 4x4 in a station wagon) Prominence of the wagon body - most makes think of this as an afterthought. For loading in tools, firewood, hunting/fishing/camping gear etc. a wagon body style is just more practical. Roof racks being almost a standard option for similar reasons. Dislikes - The newer ones are becoming much more of a luxury car and not an every mans wagon/ family vehicle. They are far away from the "cheap and ugly" marketing that they started with. Dual range options were discontinued in the states. Stereotypical WRX/STI drivers (there are plenty of exceptions but this seems to be a go-to car for many toolbags who are very much in love with themselves.)

What model car and what engine do you have? The most common for that year was the 2.5 liter 4 cylinder - the EJ25.If that's your motor, I think 2002-2004 are direct bolt it (Someone correct me if I'm off by a year) and 2000 and 2001 are compatible but need a couple small pieces swapped from your 2003 motor. If your motor simply has bad head gaskets, it's usually best to just replace them. The 2000+ 2.5 motors were much more reliable than the prior ones. The factory head gaskets were not great and eventually failed, but when replaced with the upgraded version (a search on here should yield the part #) they were good to go. I've had 2 of these motors under my watch. We sold one this summer at 351,000 miles (Still running fine) and the other is a daily driver now at 222,000

$50. sounds about right. Pick N Pull charges about $13 for a muffler and $10 for a pipe (no cat)- but that's after a $2. entry fee and the hassle of finding and pulling it. To the right person it may be worth more, but if you already have a buyer and it gets one more fart can off the road, it sounds like a win/win.

Thanks for the tip. I think I answered the rest of my own questions. Since I was done with work early and my wife decided to go shopping and take the baby with her, I started tearing into things under the hood. Has some differences in the design but the process has all been the same as pulling an EJ motor. Hardest part was disconnecting the wiring harnesses off of the radiator. Skinned a knuckle when it came loose.

We got a 2006 LLBean outback with a blown EZ30 (Looks like the block is cracked) I sourced a good used one and am about to start pulling the bad one. I've done maybe half a dozen swaps on EJ motors and it was all basically the same just different sizes. Anything of note about swapping an EZ30? or am I doing the same stuff with a bigger motor?

Neat car and neat story. Welcome!

Might be the cleanest I have ever seen an EA81. Nice Brat!

Welcome! How high are you wanting to lift it? Read up in the off road section. The block sizes and such can be different year to year and model to model. I am not aware of the suspension setup on an 09 as to whether any currently made kits bolt up or whether you would have to make your own. general rule is you can lift about an inch, maybe a little more with HDPE or aluminum strut top spacers and longer bolts. I cut mine out of a $13. wal mart cutting board for a 3/8 spacer. HDPE does not cost much. 2 inches of suspension lift is about the limit for the axles. Most do strut top lift blocks. You'll see examples in some searches and viewing a few builds. Any taller and you will need an accompanying body lift. Again, depending on the setup, you may have the option of swapping in outback or forester struts and springs to gain some lift. Possibly the XV as well. take some measurements, look at the parts and how they bolt up. It may have been done already. If you're going higher than 2 inches, body lift is the only good option. Basically, spacer blocks between your subframes and unibody as well as trans crossmembers etc. You also have to lengthen your steering shaft. Basic info to get you started. It's all the same basic process lifting subies, but each generation has is small differences. Do lots of reading on the off road section about lifts - specifically newer EJ series cars. Look at some of the lifted ones in the members rides section and you'll have a good idea of what you'd be in for and what to do.

if it's a 96, your valves shouldn't be bent. 96 engines are non interference. Did the timing belt go? If so, just realign with a new timing belt and drive it.

Spotted this car in the Home Depot parking lot. Must have been a custom job. Liked the design other than the holes in the bumper. And I'm thinking it's not beefy enough to be for anything more than show, but neat looking nonetheless. How long until we see one of this generation built into a wheeler?

What's the year and model of the car?

Any 95-99 legacy or legacy Outback bumper will fit. Depends what style you like. Outback bumpers house the stock foglights.

Ha! Missed that. Then yeah, everything should be identical. Throw it in there and drive.

It will all be the same. Just make sure your final drive ratio is a match.

you can use it, but you need to add a matching rear diff as well. grab the rear diff from the same car. They have to match. You can use a 4.11 with your diff. Or swap the 3.9 trans and a 3.9 diff. If you put a 3.9 trans in with a 4.11 diff you're going to have issues and things will break. But since you're in a hurry to get it on the road, spending a little extra time and $$$ on the 3.9 diff is a fine option.

Yep. Was in sacramento last weekend getting a motor for our "new" outback. Welcome!

Yep. I swapped over flywheel and clutch from 2.5 to 2.2 when i did the swap on the 99. Same stuff

Glad she's ok. Year helps. some pics of the damage even better.

the compressors rarely fail and aren't expensive. May consider just throwing a used one in there.

95 Ej22 with a 5 speed - you just bought about the most reliable package possible. You've got OBDII for easy diagnostics for check engine light and your motor is still non interference. Nice clean looking car too! Couple searches on here will give you the specifics. Wheel studs are a pretty simple job to replace. Most of the time the A/C goes out, it's just the o rings on the compressor. (So about 49 cent fix) and if you do have a bent rim, a junkyard makes for an easy replacement. Should be easy and cheap enough to smooth out those little issues. nice score!

And other stories Prius drivers will never ever tell... 1/4 mile in a ditch. Well done! Bet that exhaust smelled nice with burning mud and grass.

Engine mounts are a possibility. Double check all your trans mount points as well. make sure anything that was removed is good and snug. Clutch cable adjustment can be a possibility. I had one where the clutch was barely brushing at idle. Made a whirring noise and shook the car til I adjusted it. Can also just be vac hoses as mentioned, plugs, wires, old gas, fuel filter. How long was the car off the road?

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP254-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUA5W6/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1412058276&vehicle=1998-13-62------------1-0&sr=1-4&ymm=1998%3Asubaru%3Aimpreza Gates kit with water pump for $200. shipped to your door. Probably a much higher quality product than what autozone would sell you.