AdventureSubaru

Looks really good for an east coast car. Welcome! Is that a 2wd or 4x4 subie?

I went a similar route with my swap. Except I went from legacy to impreza - 2003 Baja seats into a 97 Impreza OBS. All that was needed was to bend the very front of the brackets so the angle matched the impreza. Took 2 minutes with a set of vice grips. Bolt right in.

Step one is to make sure you're not low on coolant or have air in the lines. Do a quick search on burping the system for a Subaru. Usually topping of the coolant a few times with short drives in between is sufficient. If the coolant gets low, the heat will come and go, shortly followed by the engine running hot and overheating.

Wobbling is usually a sign of misalignment. Are your tires the same size? Any uneven tread wear on either of them? Before or after? As in - why did only one tire get replaced up front? If it's a bearing going bad or a caliper seizing, you will usually hear some grinding or growling in the front. Any noise to suggest either of these? Rotor issues you should only feel when braking. You can also get wobble out of bad ball joints or an improper alignment. If you can't find a likely culprit, I'd shop around for a shop running a special for a 4 wheel alignment. You can usually find one around $50. The alignment can be tweaked as you hit potholes etc. through normal driving. A decent alignment shop will also be able to tell you if you have any other failing components that will need attention. At 50k on the car though, unless it's seen a lot of abuse/rust you should have lots of life left.

That car is for sale on craigslist now. http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/4280626121.html

If it's your head gaskets that are going, then yes, a 2.2 is a good option. If you just have a leaky seal somewhere else, replace it if it's bad, or if it's mild, just top off the oil from time to time. Many prefer manual transmission, but the automatics are perfectly reliable. My wife's 2000 Outback got 300,000 miles on it's original automatic before I replaced it. Are you getting your information on the car firsthand? Or is a mechanic telling you of your issues?

You should be okay. If you can try it on a slippery surface is when you'll feel it kick in. Slushy, snowy, muddy roads and it should show up. If not, then yeah something might be off. I'm not a fan of ABS for myself though. It's disabled on the cars I have that came equipped with it. Pumping the pedal does the same thing but with a human brain operating it instead of a computer.

www.picknpull.com They even keep an online inventory now. 85-93 EA82 cars are probably common in there. Great self service auto parts chain. A little more pricey than some, but cheaper than most wreckers.

The digi-dash is pretty cool but they failed regularly. Good call on going back. I don't have any pics, but someone on here might. If not, I'd take a trip to a junkyard and bring a camera with you. Get a few good shots so you can reference each of your wiring harnesses. Also - for the splices, shrink tubing is your friend. Better than using tape or connectors and playing wiring games a couple years down the road when the corrosion starts.

yeah, just unbolt the flex plate and put the flywheel from your car on there. Every other part should be identical. You can make a bit of $$$ back parting out the bad motor. Did that with a legacy a few years ago. The bad motor paid for the replacement motor by the time I sold off the good heads, intake, sensors etc. Plus a hefty block is worth about $10. in scrap.

The northwest and pockets like Denver etc. that have a general public more educated on Subarus will have a higher price tag. Those of us confident in the reliability of the brand are more willing to pay for it. I bought my last two Subaru at 240,000 and 275,000 miles with no worries or hesitation. You can save a great deal by avoiding car dealerships and buying through a private party. If you don't know what to look for yourself, many mechanics and probably a handful of board members are willing to look a car over and give an unbiased opinion of it's condition and reliability. In my experience - teenagers and Imprezas/WRXs don't mix. Kids love to beat the tar out of them. You will obviously know your teenagers better than anyone on the board here, but in general, I'm not a fan of putting a lot of horsepower in the hands of inexperienced/immature drivers. The mazda 3 is a good little car. My sister drives one and has had little issue with it. Imprezas are a reliable platform. Just avoid the ones that have been modified/driven fast as they have likely been beaten half to death. I wouldn't rule out a nice legacy or Legacy Outback - slightly bigger/safer than an impreza with a ton of dependability. Just avoid those 2.5 motors and their headgasket issues. And yes, if you're trying to find a car that is dependable and in good condition be ready to pay for it. Deals happen every day, but if you are shopping at dealerships, they will know what they have and what they can profit from it. Private party sales are where I see the great deals happen. Just takes a little more leg work on the buyers end to hunt for the right deal.

I am halfway through the trans swap on my 97 Impreza OBS. The donor car was a 99 OBS - same gear ratio and all. But the 99 had a speedometer sensor and the 97 was cable. I removed the sensor from the 99 and it looks similar enough in there. Do I just install the 97 cable into the spot for the 99 sensor. Looks like the tip of the cable can slide into the slot on the 99. Just wanted to be sure before I go ahead with anything.

Thanks! And yes - no comparison on how much easier it is to work on a car where the bolts and nuts spin out lie they were put in there yesterday. I have been making a point to bring home extra nuts and bolts from the yard so I can replace the rusted/corroded ones along the way. The good news is I've had almost everything off this car at some point so it wont be long before I can only retrace my steps. And as nice and pretty as many of these rust free California cars are, this one has history and being the "adventure car" it gets so much in the way of dents, scratches and rough handling, that a little rust wont hurt. The body is very solid. Just a pain with some of the bolts and it has that usual rust in the rear quarters that I should be repairing before too long.

Perfect! Thanks so much! I'm going to be removing the clutch/flywheel to see if I need a new seperator plate and then be placing an order to Subaru.

About what the title says. I need the retainer clip for the clutch fork - 97 Impreza 5MT - Mine was long gone when I pulled the trans today. I would think it's the same for all EJ series 5MTs. Anyone have a part number? or an extra clip laying around that they would be willing to drop in the mail for me? New clutch is waiting to go in.

Didn't want to miss the deadline on getting my core charge back so I pulled the trans today. What a pain! The shift lever bolts were rusted tight and I had to cut them off with a grinder. Had to do the same for one of the trans crossmember bolts as well. Had to cut through the floor to access the nut where the weld broke. Rust slowed things down considerably. Other than that the removal went quickly. Am now prepping the "new" trans for install and installing the new clutch. This is where I may hit some bumps. The clip for the clutch fork is gone. Anyone got a part #? One of the clips on the throwout bearing had come off and was on the bottom of the bellhousing stuck in some grease/oil. The 99 trans has a speedo sensor and my car has a cable. How hard is it to swap over to cable? Just remove the sensor and screw the cable in? Otherwise, should be ready for install soon. Probably after the holidays though.

I feel that history has shown in these as well as rear main seals on Subarus that they are far more prone to leak when replaced. They don't usually wear out. As far as the torque converter, - take a small tape measure to the back of the starter opening and measure the space between the TC and bellhousing of the trans. You should be at about 1/8 of an inch. And to put everything together the TC will move slightly forward as mentioned.

In general - the 4EAT is a tank. Nice low power for crawling along/up. The one in my wife's car finally started wearing out around 300k. The one in there now is still going strong at 215k and has hauled a lot.

I would love to see pics of an EJ22 boat. been thinking about a similar idea.

http://www.partsgeek.com/n14txbd-subaru-impreza-power-steering-pressure-hose.html?utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=wc&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShoppingCom&fp=pp&utm_term=1993-1997+Subaru+Impreza+Power+Steering+Pressure+Hose+-+Edelmann+W0133-1621270 Try that one? Steep price to pay, you could get a used rack for that, but it's rust free!

Should be the same as the 93-97 ones listed I think. I don't think the racks changed from those years.

If I were you, I'd do some shopping and put to more reliable suspension on there. Check U-Pull-it yards - the EZ Pull and Save in New Ringgold PA would probably have everything you need. Shopping list if I am remembering would be 93-2002 Impreza AWD (Needs to be AWD because 2WD had a different spline count) Front struts/springs Front Knuckles/spindle Front axles EA82 (85-92 wagons, coupes, sedans - GL DL Loyale) Rear struts and springs Bolt them in and drive something that's not going to leak and leave you feeling every bump in the road in your spinal cord.

Did this job on my wife's car this summer. I have no worries about a junkyard knuckle. It's super simple to swap and the yards usually don't charge an arm and a leg to do it. I prefer self serve yards because you can test the bearing ahead of time spinning a wheel on it and checking for play/listening for noise. You could do the whole job in a driveway in a few hours. I see alignment specials of $50. and general price is $100 or less. It won't fall apart on you, but your gas mileage anf tire wear will suffer.

Nice pair. The colors even match! Welcome to the board!

Nothing wrong with that. Save your old tires and sell them on craigslist or something to get some of the $$$ back. Lots of market for good used tires - especially in this economy.