AdventureSubaru

Are you trying to get a larger diameter tire to match the lift? And buying new or used? Way more options to fill the wheel well in 15 inch. All the old trucks and SUVs seemed to come with a 15 inch rim and tires around 215 75 to 235 75. I have bought used for years and have had some fantastic junkyard finds. The tires on my impreza had maybe 500 miles on them and I purchased the set for $40. They still look almost new 27000 miles later. 14s should be a little cheaper if you're not going for a larger than stock tire. But if it's going to go bigger, the options become fewer. it's why I got 15 inch toyota rims for the ski team wagon rather than 14 inch pugs. Just more options. Glad the car came together after the frustration with the forester.

I used blue RTV on the IACV in my old 91 legacy with no issues. Just the usual - make sure the surfaces are cleaned up and smooth, and it doesn't take much RTV. I had some squish out the sides the first time and re-did it with less so it wouldn't create any blocks.

Looks like a good engine. EA82s are good motors and will take that mileage and more. There's a thread around here somewhere to show off mileage and there are plenty of EA82s in the 300 and 400k club. But with 186k on it, you may be able to negotiate a lower price. Maybe leave the fuel injection stuff for the guy to sell separately. If you have any pick n pulls in the area, you could try and source one from one of the yards. They charge $100. for an engine with a $30. core for your old motor.

Yep. Drops right in. That DOHC is a great power upgrade. Just know that head gasket failure was a common issue - often recurring - in the DOHC 2.5 motors. There's a coolant additive that helps extend the life of it. And just keep a close eye on temp gauge etc.

Good stuff. It's things like this that help give confidence and capability to those thinking of doing it themselves. The more DIYers wrenching on Subarus, the more subarus will remain on the road.

The take - 99 Trans, nearly new front rotors, rear shoes at about 60% - way better than the rusty stuff on there now. Clutch should be here in a couple days. Going to grab some new gear oil and exhaust manifold gaskets from O'reillys. Will probably get a new oil seperator plate from the local dealer once I confirm that it's leaking. (Because on this engine with 277k I can't tell because it's probably covered up by all the OTHER oil leaks on this engine. Still runs strong. Just gotta add some in between oil changes.) Anything I'm forgetting?

I drive a 97 Impreza with 277,000 miles. My wife drives a 2000 outback with 334,000 miles. And seen several make it past 500k. These cars are pretty bullet proof. The price sounds good if it seems well maintained. New timing belt is surely a plus. Subarus hold their value because those of us who know them can run them forever. I wouldn't hesitate on that car if it seems solid. You can keep them running on a very low budget. Colorado junkyards will have good options for replacement parts should you need them. And these cars are so simple to work on. If you get the car, refer back to this board anytime you need help or advice. It makes owning an older subaru a breeze. The EJ18 and EJ22 that came in the Imprezas were some of the best motors Subaru ever made. Welcome!

C'mon! Did you get it or not? I wanna see another classic saved. In California, you'll eventually find a donor car in a pick n pull and score a $100. motor.

If the aluminum seperator plate is ok, I wouldn't mess with it. It was the earlier plastic ones that were a real problem. I did the one on my wife's car since it was seeping fairly steadily, but then there was close to 300k on the motor at the time.

Sorry to hear about the hit and run. Glad you and your family were safe though. Could always have been worse - so Merry Christmas just the same! Good news is that the engine should swap over no problem. You'll want to keep the 99 intake/throttle body and sensors since it's a MAF. But yeah. Swap the motor from the 2001. Keep the intake from the 99 and drive it. Hopefully you can recoup some of the $$ by parting the rest of the totaled car. Or have lots of spare parts for the 99.

Yeah, fuel pumps on these eventually wear out. What's the mileage on the car? Any idea if/when the pump was replaced? And if so - which brand? Some are known to fail prematurely. I'd check that pump first to see if it's operating correctly. And go from there.

If it's not leaking, I'd leave it. These trannies are usually good for lots and lots of miles.

Welcome! Those first generation legacies are tanks. Great reliable platform in general. Post up whatever issues you've got in the "new gen" section and you'll get lots of good advice. Oh yeah, and post up some pics of your car!

Haven't seen a touring in a long time. Post up some pics? Welcome to the board!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79130-how-to-seat-your-torque-converter-by-mnwolftrack/ There's a great write up on seating the TC. I used it the first time I had to do it and it only took me a minute to get it right. Posted a few pics of it. Best way to tell for sure is to look at the TC from the starter hole of the trans. You want no more than an 1/8 of an inch space between the TC and bellhousing.

Welcome to the board! Any of the 96-99 Legacy Outback struts will be a direct bolt in for 1-2 inches of lift. The front struts/springs from a 2000-2004 outbacks are also the same but not the rears. You can get another inch or so using Forester Struts/springs. Do a few searches on here, members rides and in the off road section. It's been done many times with great results and plenty of before and after pics and some good write ups.

Direct bolt in. No modification necessary. Yields a couple inches of lift and will let you clear up to a 28 inch tire if you wish.Have fun!

Got a trans from pick n pull today from a 99 OBS that I'll be putting in soon after the new clutch arrives. Visually it looked pretty good. The car it came from seemed well maintained and was involved in a front end collision. (Following the rule that it probably drove itself to the accident) No leaks. The gear oil smells good and is still honey colored. (I take that as a good sign) No wiggle to the shaft inside the bellhousing. trans is about 180k. I've swapped a few trannies, but done no real work to one. Anything else I should do/check before I install it and cross my fingers?

Went to San Jose PNP today. Found a 99 OBS that had been in a front end collision. I brought a printout of the manual tranny chart and the numbers matched mine just fine. 3.9 and all the gears are actually the same. (Not that I would have cared.) Other than the damage of the accident, the car was in great shape. Looked very well cared for. The gear oil in the trans was still honey colored, so someone actually cared to keep up with it. I couldn't tell the mileage of it since it was a digital odometer. But hey, for a $100. pick n pull trans, I wasn't concerned. Pulled the trans. Also grabbed the front rotors off the car for $11. a piece. And a set of rear shoes to replace the one's that are probably worn out after all that towing.Took every single spring and little piece to go with it. Rust free. Doubt I can say the same for my car. Ordered a Bahnhof clutch kit on ebay. I know. It's not an exedy. But the price was too good to pass up on. If it lasts half as long as an Exedy, I'll be satisfied. Wrote down the VIN of that 99 in the yard. Did a history check and the trans is about 140k. Car has been a California car all it's life. Explains why it was so stinkin easy to work on it. Good reason to love the west coast - NO rusty bolts! I only hope the trans comes out of my 97 as easily. Once the parts arrive, I'll finally take the tired trans out and bring the car back up to speed. Then I'll be on to the next step in the process. Maybe a bit of body lift... dual range, something or other. Need to get it out in the woods again.

Great idea. Can you post up some pics of the fit? Not a bad idea for those of us running fog lights etc.

Still chugging along. No long trips scheduled for this car until the "new" trans and clutch go in there. If I'm gentle on the clutch and skip 4th gear it still gets me around just fine. Even taken it down to the harbor a number of times for some kayaking, fishing and the great combination of kayak fishing. new terrain for this car. Dolphins! Humpback whales. They came as close as about 30 feet of the kayak. Been eating pretty well lately. Going to make a tandem kayak rack for the car. My wife and I recently bought a nice Necky Touring kayak for her so she can join on some of these aquatic trips. Thinking of heating some PVC to bend it similarly to some of the Thule racks. Anyone done a home built kayak rack before?

PM me on what the ballpark right price might be. I'm more interested in parts for the swap than a whole car. (We have very little parking space as it is right now.) I think I'd need the trans, shift linkage/levers flywheel, clutch, trans crossmember and drive shaft.

Welcome! Good choice. 90s legacys - especially the 90-94s are tanks. And you can fit a truck load of stuff in them. Great transportation. And as you'll see from this site, lots you can do to them.

Welcome to Subaru ownership. Seems to just come with the territory that they all leak a little oil as they get into higher miles. Check to be sure the oil filter is well seated and doesn't have stacked gaskets. (Where the old gasket sticks when the filter is removed, so you end up with two of them on there.) But if it's a very minor leak, just keep driving and periodically check oil levels. It's just behaving like a subaru. My wife and I have Subarus at 277,00 and 333,000 miles and they both eat about a quart of oil in between changes. Green fluid means coolant generally. I would try and hunt down the source for it. check after the car has been run for a while. If you're having trouble, a picture is worth a thousand words.

Nice looking car. That push bar does a lot in making it look more rugged. Lift it?