AdventureSubaru

Donor trans has it cut off. Anyone know the part number off hand? Only one I saw on Rock Auto says it's for Vin Number 4 (This is a 5 - Not sure that it matters.) Here's are some pics the yard sent me. Picking this up tomorrow morning. Going pretty quick with this install hopefully. Looks like a good clean trans for a midwestern region and 30+ years old.

Got some exercise today! All told it took about 3 hours to yank the trans. Broke only one bolt in the process and it will be easy to compensate for. The only real trouble spot I hit was the speedo cable. When I got a grip on it and tried to spin it out of the trans it just came apart. The end that linked up to the trans was made of plastic! Is this normal? I was past being gentle by then so I cut the speedo cable off with a cutting disc. So I'm in the market for a front axle, front brake pads and a speedo cable if anyone has one taking up space.

It's all pretty straightforward. I pull them from underneath, but you can take the engine and trans out as a unit. Here's a borrowed write up and a few tips. 1. Put vehicle on Jackstands 2. drop exhaust 3. remove center consoles/shifter knobs, etc 4. remove bolts holding tranny to bell housing 5. remove sway bar 6. Remove roll pins. pull axles off stubs (You may need to wiggle the trans backward to do this.) 7. remove drive shaft 8. plug end of tranny, or drain gear oil 9. remove starter 10. unhook speedo cable 11. disconnect torque converter. (There is an access plug on the passenger side of the engine to access the bolts) 12. place jack under tranny and just take the weight off 13. take off tranny crossmember nuts 14. remove tranny mounts from tranny and crossmember 15. remove tranny and tranny crossmember Now reverse the process. Some torque converters have a trick to them to seat them correctly. I know a 4EAT if installed improperly will kill the trans. Someone better with the 3AT will probably chime in on that. First one usually takes a day to do, so leave yourself plenty of time.

Music to my ears. If it all checks out, I'm going to proceed with the single range and slap it in there so this can be driven by a friend while we're moving and getting settled. I'm still planning on the dual range going in there though. Fox - I still have that 14 inch rim and tire for you if you want it. Cash is tight, but I can offer a little. Or, if there's any stuff you'd want in trade for it, we're selling a lot of our belongings prior to the move since we'll have a much smaller space in California. PM me if there's anything you'd be looking for.

Update! Finally! Spring had me wrapped up getting a 14 foot starcraft, a 10 HP 1960 Evinrude and a $50. boat trailer ready for fishing this year. (Which includes a 2000 mile trip to Ontario in July. Then BOOM! My wife lands a fantastic job in California and we're up and moving soon. The plan for the ski team wagon was, and still is to put the low miles dual range 5 speed in it and give her some lift and larger tires with only minimal trimming. Going to upgrade the paint and decals and keep it original unless something changes. Have given some thought to simply re-painting the decals themselves as a temporary measure. So in prep for the move, I'm selling the 1997 3000GT. (Anyone want it?) Keeping the mustang in storage and will be getting the ski-team wagon on it's feet with a single range 4 speed I found in Iowa. That way I can slap in the single range, my friend can drive it until I've got everything good and ready and can then do all my work to it in one swoop. (Here's hoping!) I have great visions of this thing climbing the mountains of California and exploring many of the sights. So today I jacked it up, removed the front wheels and am starting to scout the removal of the old trans. Toms welding skills have held up just fine. No rust showing on the rockers and almost all the rust proofing measure he took, look the same as a year ago. The beast waiting to roar again. The less-than-perfect front axle. Tom- did you ever have these roll pins out? Wondering if I'll have a battle on my hands or not. At least as it's parked now, I have access to them. With the trans stuck in gear, it could have been fun trying to move them.

If this came from an 84 I would think the tunnel would be the same on an 83 right? Or is the yard mixed up somehow? Was there a single range 4x4 for EA81 cars or did they get the year of the car wrong and it's an EA82 or maybe an 84 with an EA82 single range in it?

Fox, I may take you up on that. I have an EA82 dual range. Do you have a clutch set to go with that? I'll need an EA82 4wd clutch to put a 5 speed in right? Any answer on the original question? Is there anything besides pulling the dual range and bolting in a single range? (EA81 That is)

My issue isn't the wrenching time. It's the time and money wrapped up in sourcing flywheel, drive shaft, cross member, clutch etc. Then modifying the shifters to fit the body. If I can slap a $65. trans in there and go, I will be thrilled and have plenty of time to gather the necessary parts.

What's wrong with the legacy that makes it a donor car? Looks like it's in good shape body-wise. If the legacy seats are good, you could swap them in. I think a few people on the board have done this.

If it's anything like the legacies that do this, it would be by the passenger side. Legacies didn't have these in the fuse box, they were just a single fuse holder over in front of the fire wall on the passenger side - usually labeled 2wd. I didn't think that a loyale ever had this option.

Some of you know the Ski Team Wagon story till this point. The 1983 dual range 4x4 in it has locked up in third gear. The new part is, my wife and I are moving to California and in the time I have to pack and get ready, I'm just not feeling up to tackling all that is necessary to put the dual range 5 speed in that is sitting in the garage right now. So I'm hoping to get this mobile quickly and easily. Tom put a new clutch etc. in there so everything should be good to go after the trans swap. I found a yard that has a 2wd trans for $50. and a single range 4x4 trans for $65. All things being equal, I'd go with the single range. The single range came out of an 84 and I think there's an option for an 82 or an 84 2wd. What sort of modification would I need to put any of these transmissions in? The 2wd and 4wd clutches are different right? Obviously the drive shaft would have to ride in the trunk for a while. So if I buy the single range, will it bolt right in? or is there more to it? Really just hoping that I can spend $65. and an afternoon on this and drive. Even if the 4wd doesn't work, I'd love for this car to move on it's own power. California should have more parts sources for early 80s cars so I can take my time getting the things I need for the 5 speed swap.

Rplaced the whole axle/hub assembly on my wifes 2000 Outback as the bearing was fried and pick N pull was having a 1/2 off sale. The ABS sensor was drilled out on the hub and is currently open. I was thinking I would replace the sensor, but no way I'm paying the $150+ that they charge. So I'm wondering, is that open hole going to allow dust and moisture in and cause trouble? Should I plug it up with JB weld or something? Really not concerned with the ABS. I'm not a fan even when it works.

Figured I'd close this thread out with the end results. The CEL was a red herring in the mix. Fuel pump was to blame. I pulled one from a nice 97 Legacy sedan with just over 100k. It fit just fine but the fuel pump motor was much bigger than the one from my Impreza. Anyway. Plugged it all together and the car is running normally again.

That's what I figured. I looked up part numbers by replacement through autozone and all the 90s EJ cars seem to share some part numbers. The werid thing is that 93 impreza shares with 97 impreza. And 97 Impreza shares with 98 legacy, but 93 impreza does not share with 98 legacy. Weird. I'll just snap a few pictures to take along I guess and see if it looks the same or not.

I'm heading to the yard this weekend to hopefully solve my bucking Impreza issue. I think I'm going to throw a fuel pump at it to see if that solves the problem. Anyone know what years will swap in for 97 Impreza 2.2? The yard has a few 93 Imprezas and a 2000. It's got Legacies from 90-2000 as well.

Thanks for that. Let me know what it would cost to get a set. Seems these cars are a bit of a unicorn these days.

good ideas here. The front 02 sensor has been disconnected with no apparant change. Still worth trying to swap in a new one? This car wont make it through one tank of gas, let alone three. It got pretty bad, pretty fast. Went from minor annoyance every once in a while to nearly undriveable. I'll see if I can't get a look at the cats to see what's up. Once they are apart, anything in particular that I'm looking for? I have seen plenty of cats, so looking for any particular color other than just breaks/blocks? Hoping the exhaust comes apart easily. Some of it is welded together.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118004-the-unofficial-how-to-lift-your-impreza-thread/ Should have everything you need to know. I have done this lift on my Impreza. Only difference may be the rear strut top hats and whether the legacy is the same or not. I got about 3 inches of lift from Forester struts/springs plus 3/8 HDPE top spacers. For outback struts I would estimate a little less lift. Subtract some more if you use your springs but Outback/Forester Struts. To correct the camber, just take it in for an alignment on the front. You'll need adjustable camber bolts for the rear. Not sure yet if stock ones from the front can also be used on the back. Bout the only other thing is getting a set of 96-99 Legacy Outback trailing arm brackets to correct your angles. This is the hardest part for rust belt cars. Easy otherwise.

Hoses by the valve covers look fine. Changed the plugs today. The old ones were bosch and were pretty ugly. May have smoothed things out a bit but the engine is still hesitating. I used some carb spray to see if I could hunt down a vac hose leak. I may (Not sure since the hesitation is intermittent) have gotten some results near the Idle Air Control. Trouble is, I wiggle hoses and move stuff around trying to get something to happen (Stall/rev whatever) and I can't get anything consistent. So it might just be coincidence. On another note, the ABS pump is humming (Sounds like speaker feedback) Any chance this is related?

Unplugged the sensor, disconnected the battery for a while. Started her up and still no better. Getting a decent amount of smoke from the engine bay with the hood popped. Smells like the usual seperator plate leak onto the cat. Was thinking maybe head gaskets. Exhaust smells normal. Oil looks normal. Coolant looks normal. Likely causes as I'm seeing it - Coil MAF blocked cats from burning oil or HG leak. Would I be seeing this from a head gasket failure?

Can I get a read on whether it's the o2 sensor by disconnecting it? What would I expect to have happen running without the sensor connected? Pretty sure it hasn't been right for a while but the behavior seems extreme for a faulty sensor.

Good thinking. I saw that pop up in a search somewhere. It was an easy enough swap and I had a leftover from the 91 legacy. Swapped it in and no difference made. So I think crank angle is ruled out.

Well no dice on myEJ18 coil. Has a different wiring setup. Any idea if I can swap over the coil from a Phase II EJ25 motor from my wifes 2000 outback? I would prefer to not just buy stuff to see if it fixes it. or if an o2 sensor from a 93 Impreza with the 1.8 would match my 97 2.2? I may sound lazy but at the moment Wisconsin is getting pounded with snow and the furnace on the house is pumping minimal heat. Not ideal conditions for working in the driveway. All else fails I'll bite the bullet and take a trip to the yard.

I'll give that a try. I have a spare coil from an EJ18. I'll see if that works enough to test it out. Plugs are cheap so I'll probably throw a set in there just to hit the reset button.

My Impreza (269k EJ22 - 5 Speed) has intermittently hesitated especially on those damper/snowier days. Felt like the plug wires were due for replacement. Since it was so mild I didn't bother to replace them until yesterday. My wife was driving it home and it stalled out on an intersection. Started back up, but the issue seemed to be getting worse. I swapped the plug wires but got no change. Today we took it to work. It was pretty goofy on the way. The power would lag and surge and lag and surge. Sometimes rhythmically and sometimes random. On the way home it stalled on me once. I played with it a bit. If I put the clutch in and coasted, it would stall out, then re-engage the clutch and it ran again. It went back and forth from bucking all over the place under load to smoothing right out and being normal. Stopped at auto-zone to get the CEL code pulled. Code is P0420. CEL has been on for over a year. I generally ignore them unless the car shows issue. Would an o2 sensor cause this much bucking and issue with the car? Or is this a blocked cat? Or any thoughts on the next best step?