AdventureSubaru

I have a pile of spare parts. The original motor with a hole in the block. A complete EJ18 and bolt ons from a 94 Impreza, and anything I feel like temporarily pirating from my Ej22 Impreza Outback. I already swapped the TPS just trying to eliminate some possibilities. No change. Ditto to the MAF. I connected the one off the Impreza. No change. Never had to mess with the TB. Does it have much in the way of moving parts? Looks simple to me. Then what? As i browse more and more posts I don't see many likely options. What causes freakishly high revs on startup? Could the injectors I swapped over be to blame? So much of the ignition/air/fuel systems would cause it to sputter and die, but what else is gonna make it rev?

Post up a pic if you can. I've probably seen it around. I have a spare trans from an 2000 outback should you end up needing parts.

Sounds good. I was considering buying it myself today. Just too nice of a car to scrap.

I think that may be the next step. I replaced the IAC today and nothing has changed. Today I did notice that the gas pedal felt sticky the first time I pushed it. Am I on the right track in thinking it's time to pull the TB and give it a good cleaning?

Heads up - stopped by Sturtevant Auto Salvage today. There is a gorgeous 1981 Hatch in there. Almost rust free. The Engine looks like it hasn't been run since a rebuild. D/R 4wd. Can't figure out why it was there. Must have been an abandoned project that was tossed out. It's really a shame it ended up there. Anyhow, great part source for the Ski car if you're still needing any parts.

The diff could be okay. It has a separate fill tube than the trans itself. The long dipstick on the drivers side will be for the trans and takes ATF. The smaller dipstick on the passenger side is for the diff which takes gear oil.

I'm heading to Wadsworth myself on Monday for a few legacy bits. That loyale is nice for a midwest car. Not sure why it ended up there.

hee hee. This place is about 5 miles down the road from where I work. I got some funny looks from some granny types when I pulled over and snapped this picture. If my car ever needs a makeover, maybe these people can handle it.

Coolant was low. I filled the radiator but the engine was dry to start. Added more and more coolant. Squeezing the upped rad hose keep producing bubbles. I disconnected the IAC and kept my foot on the gas to keep her running long enough to heat up and cycle coolant all the way through. Thermostat seems to be working properly. Now I'm no longer getting the redline revving when I start the car with the IAC connected but it's still running rough. I'm heading out for parts at pick n pull monday morning. I'll be looking for an IAC. The yard is over an hour away and parts are pretty cheap. Just in case it's not the IAC, any other parts I should look for as a plan B, plan C etc?

What's the cutoff on Legacies for OBD-I? 94 or 95?

Replaced the engine in the 91 Legacy. 2.2 and everything matched up fine. Swapped over the fuel injectors, Idle Air control valve and a few other odds and ends from the lower mileage blown engine. (The donor engine is higher mileage and has sat for a few years.) Now, when I start the car, it usually just revs right up to redline and I have to turn it right off or risk damaging the engine. Sometimes it just sputters and I can keep it running by pushing the pedal and giving some gas, but it wont idle, it just dies. Start again and back to redline. I tried a few things. I have lots of spare parts. swapped MAF - no change Swapped TPS - no change Disconnected the Idle air control - no longer revs but still sputters. Maybe onto something? Removed and shot the Idle air control valve with carb cleaner. - no change As of now, my next thought it to try a different Idle Air Control Valve or swap the throttle body off the old motor perhaps? The idle Air Control was working as of december when the block self destructed. The current Throttle body has sat for the last 3 years. I seek advice!

Been researching and so far my best guess is the Idle Air Control Valve. When I swapped it over, I used RTV instead of a gasket. I'm thinking if some of it smushed into the valve and blocked the air passage, it will read low and possibly send the wrong signals - hence the revving. If not that, a few sites suggest that it could be something stuck in the throttle body. I'll check and see after work.

Picked up the motor. Swapped out a bunch of parts. Swapped over the timing belt, water pump, fuel injectors, evap canister, air bypass valve, and any hoses that looked newer. Got everything installed. Looks pretty. Pics soon to come. But when I start the car it either A - sputters and dies. I can keep it going for a bit by giving some gas. Or B - Revs WAAAAY high. B is most common. I have to turn the car off about as quickly as it starts. I have checked and rechecked all vac lines and wiring. No leaks anywhere that I can see. Thoughts on what could be causing this?

Anyone attending from the board?

If you're going as far south as Racine, there's a Pick n Pull in Wadsworth Il (Just a mile over the border) They had about a dozen early legacies and Imprezas last time I was there and an FI Loyale Sedan. Depends what you're looking for.

Had the same problem on a front pin on my old 83 wagon. Got it loose by putting a drill bit to it. Ground out about 1/2 an inch and then it came loose. Might be worth a shot.

Of the top of my head, it should be a direct bolt in for any 2000-2004 Legacy, Forester and Impreza, and fit 99 Legacies with a phase 2 transmission. probably others, but not sure.

Used to do the same thing when I lived in Pennsylvania. Used my truck, but we found all sorts of stuff dumped out there. We'd go wheeling for the day, come back with the bed of the truck full of scrap. The next day I'd drop it off at the recyclers. It would pay for gas and then some. Usually $70. - $80. per trip. Off roading was never so profitable. Best was a pile of car exhausts complete with catalytic converters. Good scrap run that day.

I love that the Imprezas descend from the hills like a pack of wolves. Pretty neat.

In the rust belt they are difficult to remove. I ended up cutting them out of the donor car for mine. Also had to do some cutting to remove the stock ones off my car. You can get them out with an angle grinder and cutting disc. or you have to flip the seat forward and cut through the floor to access the nuts on the other side. (I broke 5 out of 6 welds on the nuts removing mine) From there, you can put an 18mm wrench on the nut and just crank with a breaker bar from underneath. (Gives you a good workout. I used a cheater pipe.) Good luck! Be sure to post plenty of pics.

What code is it pulling? Autozone or Advance Auto will pull the codes for free on any 1995+ car. Without knowing the code, I'm still guessing you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere.

I have the clutch setup - bolts, clutch, pressure plate etc. off an EJ18. not sure if they're the same for your EJ22, but if so, I got the stuff.

The lady and I are talking about driving down for this. Would love to know if there will be much of a Subie crowd there. Those of you who have been there before... is it as cool as it sounds?

PM sent. Got the EJ18 anyway. (Just in case)

Hopefully wont have to. Just not sure what sort of results to expect with an EJ18 in a Legacy. If it's just too underpowered, I can always swap it out. Got any pics of that engine? I'm still interested.