the3rsss

What condition was the Iac valve in? A lot of junk? Since it was fine for three days I think your on to something. Iac valve might still be sticking or trash. I soaked mine in gasoline ovenite. Looks and works like new. Also, good idea to get a new gasket fron the dealer.

I tend to agree with everyone who has said this is charging system related. But a voltmeter on the battery. Should be around 12v . Running should be about 13-14v volts. And go over those cables and terminals real good. Corrosion can run right down the inside of a cable even though it looks fine on the outside.

My 99obw shook at idle after a good tune up. I noticed the 4eat trans mount looked off a little. I read other threads that say this engine design puts more stress on the trans mount then engine mounts. Sure enough, the rubber was all but gone from the mount Replaced it (70.oo ebay) and the idle smoothed out. Also seemed to shift better and smoother. prob just my imagination.

25.00 sent me a free kit. easy enough to do. pulled a few ounces from the middle of my hot oil change . They supply the container, etc. There is a form to place comments or specific concerns. Got it back in about a week. sent me a hard copy and email. I feel it was worth it. As i said earlier, i had this motor apart and when i put it back together I heard the knock (weather got colder). Really put my mind at ease

Get a spray bottle and start misting ignition parts, see if you can replicate it. Also, wasn't there a tsb about water leaking down from the hood scoop and getting into the main elec connections above the trans?

First number is actual sample, second number in the average for this engine.

Its easier for me to type the results then to try and get that &*$%$#@# scanner to work.... Comments. Thanks for the note about possible piston slap. Wear metals are very low in this sample, so if there is something going on, it doesnt apperar to be hurting anything. Universal averages show typical wear levels for this type engine after about 4500 miles on the oil. Typically, that type of problem would show up as aluminum (pistons), iron (Cylinders), and maybe chrome( Rings). The only thing to really note is the low viscosity, which was closer to 5w-20 then 5w-30 or 10w-30. It dosent seem to hurt anything though. all in all, nice report at 140k miles. Average mi/hr on oil 2000 mi/hr on unit 140k make up oil added 1qt aluminum 1 3 chromium 1 1 iron 2 8 copper 1 4 lead 1 4 tin 0 1 molybdeum 23 69 nickle 0 0 manganese 0 0 silver 0 0 titanium 16 0 potassium 1 2 boron 10 47 silicon 5 12 sodium 197 31 calcium 2121 2212 magnesium 75 123 phosphorus 726 713 zinc 752 855 barium 0 0 sus viscosity at 210f 53.6 should be 56-63 cst viscosity at 100c 8.36 should be 9.1- 11.3 flashpoint 385f should be 365f fuel 0.5 should be 2.0 antifreez 0.0 water 0.0 insolubles 0.2 should be 0.6 oil type mobil 5000 5w-30 interval 2000 mi subaru 2.5 dohc

Attached is a copy of the report. I had done some major engine work (HG, timing etc) over the summer and before it had gotten colder out I had never heard a slap from this engine (60+ seems to be the magic number). The only concern I have is the viscosity. I intentionally used four qts of 5-30 then topped it off with a little more then a qt of 10-30. I wanted it a little bit thicker oil at start up ,but didnt want to risk a full 10-30 oil change in winter. And I ended up with something closer to 5-20?

5w 20 not 50w20

I have a 99 obw with 140k. I read all the threads about piston slap . ( I have a mild case of slap). But this is the first car. I have owned that slapped and I just had a hard time believing that knock was benign. So for my own piece of mind, I sent an oil sample to blackstone labs. Well, all the metal numbers were well below averages. The only thing that was off was the viscosity. I use mobil 5000 5w30 and it tested closer to 50w20p. So, you guys are right! That knock is doing no harm at all. But the test was cheap piece of mind.

Im kinda reaching here, but how about a leak or crack in the booster vac line AFTER the check valve? It would run fine at idle etc but breaking would cause the leak to open up. Also, not sure what the effect would be if the booster check valve were stuck open, Would be simple to check.

Any ideas? Before I order a new one and ruin that?

Volcanic ash? Anyway.....I assume you are still looking for answers as you bumped this thread. There was a problem with the headgasket design. I think the problem ran thru the mid 2000s before it was fixed. You may very well have a failing headgasket/s. Take it for a long drive, then park with the engine still running. See if she overheats, if she does, check the overflow bottle. Is it spilling over? Rev the engine, do you see bubbles in the overflow tank? If you are getting bubbles, take off the overflow cap and sniff. Do you get the strong smell of exhaust? Hopefully you get none of these symptoms, but if you do, chances are tje headgasket has failed.

If you compare other makes and models IN THEIR CLASS, you will find that the awd subaru get decent mileage.

That's the "dog bone" right? If so, yes it is there. Maybe bad motor mounts? They looked fine.

I replaced the trans mount on my 99 obw 4eat when I pulled the engine. The rubber was worn and the center pin was missing. I bought a new mount and pin with the rubber bashing. Was under the car yesterday and noticed the pin was gone again! I only put about 3k miles on it. I can see that it shared off at the threads. Just a coincidence?

Im not sure what the troubleshooting is for this code but i can tell you this, and your not going to like it, I got the same code when my head gaskets were on the way out. And the symptoms you describe sound alot like head gasket issues. Check your coolant overflow tank, is it greasy and black? Is it full or overflowing when hot? Any bubbles in it or strong scent of exhaust? I hope im wrong.

Got a set of puddle lights at the junkyard. Got the hard part done, fished the wite thru the door. Can I hook the ground up directly to the module? Which wire? Anyone ever do this?

I have heard some real good things about piaa bulbs 40% brighter with the same watts. The one downside, besides the price, is heat! They put out 2x the heat of standard bulbs. So the wattage won't melt your wires but the heat will! Has anyone tried leds in their foglights? Or know a supplier?

Flush is cheap! If the original compressor failed then you MUST flush your system. Pay paticular attention to the condenser. That seems to accumulate the most crude. If you don't flush after a catastrophic compressor failure your new compressot will soon fail, little bits of metal and crap floating around. I never heard of that other refrig. That you mentioned. 134a is cheap, available and works ok as a retrofit.

Just want to follow up.....if the r12 compressor is still good use that! Ester oil is comparable with r12 and 134. No need to switch compressors

Wait wait wait.....I think he's talking about the actual parking brake cable! The cable that actually applies the brakes!

The 134a runs at a higher pressure. Probably a good idea to replace the lines. Did the old compressor fail? You need to flush the lines. You can buy flush in any auto parts store. Blow the flush out with compressed air. Keep flushing till all the crap stops coming out. Drain as much of the old oil out of the compressor that you can. Replace the drier. Get a 134a retrofit kit with the new service fittings. Add ester oil in the correct amount. Hook it up. Vac. It down. Make sure it holds a good long vac. I charge with a dye can just in case. Finish charging and check for leaks. It will never work as good as r12. The metering valve lets in too much refrigerated. You can replace that if you want but I wouldn't bother. You will get cold air.

If your going to take them off to grease them, you might as well replace them. You can get a set of 16mm polyurethane bushing with grease on eBay for ten bucks!

Unless you want to rewire the foglights with heavier gauge wire and relay your kinda stuck with 55w bulbs. You can get bulbs in that watt that produce more lumes but their lifespan is considerably shorter. These new leds are interesting however. They use about one tenth of the power of the same size incandescent bulb and put out virtually no heat. That might be the way to go but won't be cheap.