the3rsss

Ok. Before you start putting in a new wiring harness I think you need to take a look at the basics. Have you tested your charging system? The fact that the car ran fine for a time after you replaced the battery tells me it could be a bad alternate. I said this before....real simple test, 13 to 14v at batt terminals with engine running . Look at the obvious stuff first.

I worked the parts counter and eventually ran the parts dept for about 5 years at a dealership. We used books for just about everything so that should tell you how long ago that was. I knew pretty much every part we had, had a good understanding of what it did and anything I could substitute. I like to think I knew my s%. Anyway, I get parts now and its amazing how things have changed. Dealers stock zero parts! Everything is ordered to keep down costs. God help you in autozone, pep boys etc. I tell them I have a 99 outback and they ask who makes it. A fee years back I asked for a distributor cap and rotor, and the kid brought out s dist. Cap and brake rotor! Even my subaru dealer parts guy is basically clueless. Nowadays they are computer experts not part experts.

They both have the same size threads. The only diff in the oem kits is the wiring. I was in the middle of replacing my thermostat when i pulled my plug. From what i have read (and there is a very good write up on scoobymods about this job with pics) very little coolant comes out if you choose not to drain the system. I would be careful about air pockets however, attached is a pic of the plug that needs to be removed.

I have used the permatex stuff, works good.

I always went with cheap pads. Figured they wouldn't wear the rotors. I put a set of akebono pads on and honestly, I didn't notice a difference. A lot less dust, that was about it. What REALLY made a difference in brake feel was adj the pedal freeplay. Much better feel!

I recently put one on my 99 obw. I read all the horror stories about that stubborn plug. I sprayed it with pb blaster, waited a day, sprayed it again, tapped the area around it, warmed up the car a lil. Used a 14mm half drive with a breaker bar and a 3ft piece of black iron pipe. It came right out! You can pick up an oem kit on eBay for 40 bucks. Just screws right in. I have only used it once but the car was almost instantly warm and the piston slap was gone! Going to set up a timer to turn it on 2hr before I leave for the day. Really a very nice option.

It should be an interesting project. Do a compression (wet and dry) a leakdown test if you can, and a vac test. That should give you a good starting point as far as the engine goes. I wouldn't make fun of anyone's car. I've restored some of the biggest pos cars you can imagine and just loved them. Have fun!

I have no cel on my 99 obw 2.5 but the mileage kinds sucks ( ave 18 to 20 mph) new plugs wires, filters, etc. Want to check the front 02 sensor to see if its original. I'll just change it if its original. Any way to tell? 140k

Is there a cel? Are you sure you got the timing marks correct. Sounds like the timing may be off a tooth.

As jarl said, major short. And yes everything is fuse protected so a fuse or visible link should have tripped. The only wire that is not fuse protected is the positive battery wire. I think you found the short (pos bat to ground). You need to go over the starting and charging system real well. Like somebody said earlier, your battery is probably shot. Is go over the ground carefully also. Replace neg cable. What voltage is the battery putting out idle? Running? Should be 12 and 13 to 14 running.

I wouldn't mess with it. Just replace it. Calipers are not expensive and you might end up rebuilding the old one only to have it leak.

Wanted to wrap this thread up. I pressurized the system with ten lbs of compressed air. Lowest my compressor would go. I heard it hissing right away. It was leaking at the rollover valve. This is located on the fillerneck top. Replaced valve and code was gone. I put the hoses on backwards and it wouldn't take gas. Switched them around and the light has been off a month and takes gas fine. A happy ending.

SEAFOAM SEAFOAM! Damn autocorrect!

I also had a p0440 code on my 99 obw. I replaced the fillerneck and rollover valve and the light went out but she wouldn't take gas. I reversed the hoses to the rollover valve and it took gas again. Did this fueling problem start after the fillerneck was replaced? As far as the stumbling., I would get two cans of seafood. Put one in a full tank of gas and the other into your intake. Preferably thru the tb.

Relays clicking, dash lights going on, other weird electrical stuff. Could it be that when your battery cable shorter it toasted an already weak battery? And now your getting symptoms of low voltage? Would be easy to test.

I have never seen my low fuel light lit. The manual lists the lights that come on in the run position but low fuel is not one of them. Any way to test this? Also, and this one I thoroughly don't expect an answer to, does anyone have a schematic or experience with the wiring of the stock Panasonic in fast cd? Mine has no power. 99 obw

I think the key is the bottle. If your bottle is overflowing or bubbling its either headgaskets or radiator. Cap. One or the other. the weak spot on the original headgasket is a small strip between the combustion chamber and the water jacket. Exhaust gas leaks into your coolant creating superhot pockets of exhaust. This causes your water pump to cavitate. Since these exhaust pockets are taking up space in your cooling system, they force coolant into the bottle. Sometimes the pockets make their way to the bottle in the form of bubbes. Lteakdown and compression tests might not show this. They leak somewhat randomly. But if your bottle overflows or bubbles, its a bad cap or headgaskets! Nothing else!

Well, I think if valves were bent the symptoms would be obvious. I would still do a compression test. I just can't imagine the timing belt being a couple of teeth off and no valve damage. I hope I'm wrong.

Have you ever adjusted the valves? Might be a burnt valve. A compression test may be in order.

I just put a gates timing belt kit in my 99 obw. The pulleys were all Japanese. The tensioners and water pump were Mexican, and the belt itself was made in Singapore. It's like the u.n.

Just kinda throwing s@&% against the wall but......if you overtightened the belt wouldn't that overheat the front bearing? Just a thought.

Charcoal canister. Purge and solonoid valves. Switches, dash switches pop right out, power Windows and locks.. ecm (you never know). 02 sensors if they look new. Look over the brakes also. I once got 4 brand new calipers and rotors from the junkyard. God, I'd go nuts. !

I hate to get off topic here., as this poor guy is trying to get back on the road. I just can't help but notice how many parts on these cars need to be oem! Gaskets, thermostat, etc, etc. The aftermarket for subaru is basically junk. Am I outta line saying that?

Repeating what has been said.....overflowing or high coolant level in bottle. Bubbles in bottle. Overheats at idle after a long drive. Smell coolant bottle, when my hg failed it was like sniffing the exhaust pipe. You can do a hydrocarbons test, but if you have these symptoms chances are your headgaskets are bad. Good luck.

Wait. Thought about this..... Try adjusting the shift linkage. It's worth a shot.