the3rsss

God im envious. I had a po443 evap code that took me 2mths, a new ecu, and alot of work to find my problem. Turned out a mouse ate thru the drain valve to ecu wire. This shorted out the ecu (opened it up and one of the ic's were toasted). I didnt even try to fix the wire. just ran a new one from the ecu back to the drain valve. Glad yours was an easy fix.

Unlike conventional oil, synthetics will not degrade being used. Also, synthetics are not effected by temp changes. It will thickened, but not degrade. Why synthetics, and all oil, needs to be changed is it becomes diluted by unburned fuel, blow by etc. BTW. I get Mobil one for 26 a jug and a pure one filter for 5 bucks. Walmart. I can do a synthetic change for just a little more then a quality conventional oil. I believe that in ten years, conventional oil will go the way of ignition points and carbs.

The stock switch is on the left drivers side dash. The foglights should only work on low to prevent blinding other drivers. My headlights were adjusted too low also and like yours rusted. I greased them up, and but a pair of vice grips on them and adj them.. I have seen the stock foglights switches on eBay.

And don't forget longevity! The compounds in conventional oil start to break down almost immediately. Just sitting in your crank conventional oil will break down. This just does not happen with synthetics

Hey. That's a good argument for not using synthetic 74. It works too good. Who wants a good motor in a pos car. Haha your right!

As far as soa calling for 0w20. Most car manufactures have, over the past 20years, lowered the viscosity recommendations. Over 90 per of engine wear is caused during cold start up. So, I can understand the zero. As far as the "working" weight of 20, well, maybe they want better flow at working temps? There was a time not to long ago, when we were pouring 10th w40 molasses in our engines. With that said, I wouldn't be afraid to use a 0w20 synthetic year round if that is what is recommended.

Synthetic is just a better product. If compared to the same weight conventional oil, synthetic flows better cold, resists shear, almost no sludge,and since it does not use additives to achieve viscocity (they break down fairly easily) will last 2x conventional oil. It really has no down side except for price. But you can easily run it 5k miles. And all that talk about leaky seals is nonsense. Synthetics have seal swelling additives just like conventional oils

The a/c heat panel backlights are out(well half of them) on my 99 obw, Searched this site and found very little. How do you replace these bulbs? I took out the entire assembly but cant seem to see any bulbs. Looks like a circuit board under a plastic cover. Has anyone done this? Are the bulbs soldered onto the board? I can solder in new bulbs if i can figure out how to remove the plastic cover.

It is a pinhole leak. At the dipstick weld. Everything else is tight.

I got oem gaskets. Cleaned both the heads and flanges real well. Sprayed gaskets with copper sealer. Then I took off the last heat shield by the oil filter, and wrapped the y pipe in header wrap. Amazingly quiet! It really helped as the fel pro gaskets were leaking bad. I still have a rapping noise at start up. It goes away after 5 or 10 min. I know the only fix for slap is to replace the piston but is there anything else I can do to quiet it down? I'm using an 0 w40 now. Little thicker oil maybe?

Looks like the oil pan is leaking on my 99 obw 2.5. When I did the head gaskets, I took off the pan, glassbeaded it, primed and painted it. Now its leaking where the lipstick goes into it. Can this be repaired or do I need a pan? I have seen pans on eBay, anyone use these?

Hopefully your joking. You want to sue the major car co. For using lexan lenses? Come-on!

The rear plastic bumper cover is buldging on each side of the quarters on my 99 obw. It looks like there is a clip inside but i just cant figure this out!! Car looks great except for this, anyone removed or fixed this before? The manual just says "remove clips". Yeah, thanks. Thats helpful. Like saying "Remove engine". Not even a decent pic.

Following that logic.....if he had a soft hose or weak spot in the radiator, wouldn't it leak eventually anyway? This way he could keep an eye out for any leaks for a week or two. But I guess I just don't understand why you would want to use a higher pressure cap. Higher pressure raises the temp that water boils at. You said the cooling system works fine. What's the point?

When I did the hg, I replaced all the studs and nuts. Used fel pro gaskets though.

I have a 99 obw. Bought it in may. Never had any noises that may be piston slap. Just did headgaskets about a month ago. Ran super quiet for a subaru. Lately, I'm getting a tap cold. Lasts about ten min. Not loud but annoying. Noise just suddenly appeared! I know both y pipe gaskets have minor leaks. I remember sbc motors with header leaks that sounded just like a valve tap. They would also go away when the engine warmed and expanded. Any chance oem gaskets might quiet it down, or is this the infamous subaru piston slap? Just seemed to happen suddenly. Colder weather maybe?

Speaking of rattles.... I read a post somewhere, i forget where, that said the y pipe actually acts as a tuning fork for engine noises. It said if you remove the heat shields and wrap the pipes in header wrap you can cut down engine noise considerably. Anyone hear of this or try this? Sounds like a waste of money.

I just did a headgasket job on my 99 obw. Recently, i was under the car looking for a rattle ( i seem to always be under the car looking for a rattle) when i noticed the exhaust gaskets(y pipe to engine) spitting out moisture. Funny, i cant feel , see or hear a leak but little bubbles of moisture are coming out on cold start. The pipes and heads were clean and straight when i reassembled them and i installed new studs and bolts. This was, however, the only gasket that was non oem. They just seemed to vanish. I know i ordered them. Anyway, I went to autozone and picked up a set of fel pro. Could that be the problem? Do you think doubling the gasket might work?

I'm really cheap. I used 1000 grit paper and soapy water. Then rubbing compound then toothpaste. Yep, plain toothpaste! They look like new. Took a lot of elbow grease however.

Sure....http://WWW.scoobymods brake pedal adjustment

I was never happy with the brake feel on my 99 obw. After flushing the fluid, ebc pads, new rotor, new rear calipers, and testing the master cyl and booster, I still had spongy brakes. I read about adj the pedal on another forum and tried it. I am amazed! Much much much better feel! Spec calls for .o2 mm min freeplay. I had about a quarter in! Loosen lockout. Turn rod clockwise to remove slack. Check brakelight switch to make sure it works and your done. You will be amazed!

I was never happy with the brake feel on my 99 obw. After flushing the fluid, ebc pads, new rotor, new rear calipers, and testing the master cyl and booster, I still had spongy brakes. I read about adj the pedal on another forum and tried it. I am amazed! Much much much better feel! Spec calls for .o2 mm min freeplay. I had about a quarter in! Loosen lockout. Turn rod clockwise to remove slack. Check brakelight switch to make sure it works and your done. You will be amazed!

My 99 obw did the exact same thing. Took forever just to put 20 bucks worth of gas in it. It turned out to be the vent valve at the top of the filler neck(both had rusted away). Everything in the junkyard was rusted. Ordered the valve online for 60 bucks. Gas goes right in now and the cel is out.

Wow. That's a damn good point josh. Oil can't drain up! Might go with purolator filters . Pure one is a quality filter that has stock bypass pressure.

Sorry.....99 obw 2.5