the3rsss

I got a real good oil cooler . Thought about running my trans to the external cooler and using the old cooler in the radiator to cool my motor oil. Bad idea?

Wix

I know that purolator is the only filter with a high bypass number 20-25 lbs. But they have no anti drainback valve. Six has the valve bit low bypass numbers 8. I went with stock.

Don't feel bad. I did the exact same thing on a Toyota solara then drove it to work. Ruined a brand new rotor and the pad was trashed.

All but one of those bulbs were burnt out on my 99 obw. I tried to get the complete bulb and base but had no luck. I got mini 12v bulbs at radio shack. Had to solder out the old bulb. The new bulbs have long wire leads that need to be bent into place , trimmed and soldered. Not hard ,just a pita.

Do any quality aftermarket filters have the higher bypass rating? Or do i have to use the oem filter. BTW I have a 99 obw with 135k. Notice a little clatter when it first starts. Prob just a lil piston slap . I want a quality filter with an anti drainback valve. The cheap filters don't have it and the ones that do, leak off. Is the oem a good filter?

After doing a lot of reading on motor oil and how it is effected by temp etc. I have decided to go with a synthetic 0 w30 oil. Right now I am using a synthetic 5 w30 and a Bosch filter. I just can't seem to find this weight anywhere. Tried autozone, advance, and pep boys. They all carry 0 w20 not 30. Also, it seems stock subaru filters have a bypass setting of about 20 lbs, most supermarket are around 10. Do I really need such a high bypass? Was going to use a Mobil one filter. Any thoughts?

I have done a few of these in various makes. Had a problem only once (threads pulled out of the cat). The sensor is shot so just cut the wire! Soak overnight in penetrating oil . Make sure you have enough room to get a socket on it, if not remove a few rubber hangers and lower the rear of the exhaust. Warm up the car. use a six point socket( I cringe every time i hear someone say just buy a cheap tool) at the very least use a craftsman. It should come right off!! Afterward, go inside and put some ice on the burns your bound to get from the hot exhaust pipe.

Heat shields! 99 obw. took them all off except for the cat and the one next to the oil filter. Rattling was driving me crazy!! I had hose clamps everywhere and it still rattled. Well, after i took them off the rattle was STILL THERE!!! Turns out the 02 sensor was finger tight and rattling. I tightened the upper plug non fouler but forgot to tighten the sensor!! Quiet as can be now. Those heat shields gotta go!!! After adj the valves and removing the shields ,i cant even tell its running,

Back in the rear wheel drive days... You could easily tell if the noise was a wheel bearing by lightly applying breaks while coasting. The brakes take the load off the bearings and the noise stops. Cant see any reason why this wont apply to awd/fwd cars.

I had this problem after putting in an axel and new pads. Caliper was hanging up. Lite corrosion UNDER the stainless shims. Cleaned up the caliper with a wire brush on a drill, bought new brake hardware. gone! Do you smell that burning pad smell? Wheel hard to turn off the ground? Oh...btw after i fixed the problem, the brand new pads were toast.

Try a lighter viscosity oil. 5/ 30 . Remember, the first number is the oils thickness at ambient temp. So, a 5 or 0 will flow much faster cold and quiet your engine. The second number 30 or 40 etc , is the thickness of the oil in a warmed up engine. I believe its measured at 212 deg. So, instead of going up in viscosity. Try going down. A thicker oil will just make the tap worst and last longer

Thanks mike. Good part number. Junkyard has 4 soobs. 2 had the valve and both were blobs of rust. Cheapest I could find was 55. The cel is back po440, so I guess the rtv didn't work and its leaking.

I just did a timing belt job on my 99 obw. I got a complete kit from gates. Was a lot less then oem , a quality product. Came with everything but the seals and water pump. Picked seals up at the dealer. Got a gates pump on eBay for 45. I am super cheap. Was going to replace just the belt, but after reading a few threads, figured I'd be crazy not to do a complete job.

I have had a p0440 code for some time now, Thought i cured it when i replaced a rotten fuel filler neck, but it returned shortly thereafter. Also, when i replaced the filler neck the car stopped accepting gas! Had to fill it with a gas can! Spent most of the labor day weekend trying to sort this out, Apparently there is a valve on the filler neck. It opens and closes when you put the nozzle in to refuel. I had the two vacuum hoses backwards and that is why it would not take fuel. (it only works in one direction). After about 60miles the cel was back on po440. So, I had replaced all the lines(yes all) and checked all the valves. I had an idea.....I disconnected the tank line from the canister and pressurized the tank! I hooked it up to my compressor, and put in about 10pds of air. Then listened for leaks. Sure enough, that same valve at the filler neck was leaking air bigtime!! I gooped it up with rtv and so far no cel ,but I would like to replace the entire valve. Here is the problem...Its not listed in subaru parts manual! Cant find a part . A pic of the filler neck assembly does not even show this valve! Im not even sure what its called. Anyone know how to go about getting a new valve? Part number, name anything? thanks

I hope I'm onto something. Found a cracked vacuum hose at the purge control valve at the intake manifold. However, I don't seem to be getting any vac at idle. how do you test this valve? Where is it and what does it look like?

The code is back! Dug a little deeper and the filler tube, yeah the one that looked new on the bottom, was totally rotted out up top. I picked up a real good used one at the junkyard on fri and put that in. I replaced all the rubber hoses to the filler neck. Drove all day sat and sun . Thought I finally got it. Guess what? It's back? Any ideas? All the hoses look good. Would that solonoud valve cause this code?

Ahhhhhh!!! Replaced the filler neck. Looked like new at the bottom, totally rusted out at the top. Got a beautiful one at the junkyard. 20 bucks. Now it won't take gas! No cel, but it took ten min for me to put 20 bucks in it. God, I just can't seem to win!

I picked up a napa( stant) cap. Took a close look at the stock gaskets and there is a good size crack in it. I just swapped the rubber gaskets. Cleared the code. Waiting to see what happens. I have heard this code can be a royal pita.

gas cap?? Looks ok?? never any pressure when i take it off.

being a northeast salt belt car, and seeing that just about everything under the car has a layer of rust on it, i expected the worst when looking under the plastic cover at the filler tube. It looked fine! still had grey paint and very little rust. I suspect it had been replaced. checked all the hoses while down there and nothing looks brittle or loose. I know the drain valve is working. could it be the solonoid valve above the canister( I think its called a solonoid valve, subaru has a million names for these things, its round kinda small and has vac tube running to it along with wireing) I never messed with that.

Well, no one helped me with the p0446 code. I chased my tail for hours on that one. Here is where I stand now. And let me say this right now. If no one replies I swear to god ill start a " which oil is best for my subaru" thread I had no voltage at pin ten at the ecm with koeo, so I replaced the wire from the ecm back to the drain valve. The valve was getting 12v and worked fine just the ecm didn't see the voltage. I got a junkyard ecm and poor! No p0446. The valve worked and off I go. Now , after about 50 miles, I have a p0440 code. This code never showed up on the old ecm. Can't even get much info on it. Gas cap? Pressure issue? Help. Don't make me start an oil thread!

Easy way to see if the noise is your wheel bearings.....lightly brake while its making the noise. If its a bad bearing, the brakes will take the load off of it and the noise will vanish.

Anyone?

OK...After a new head gasket timing belt etc, im left with an annoying p0446 code. I went to the junk yard and picked up a canister, and both rear solonoids. Just started working on this and here is what i found. The factory wire that supplies 12v to the rear solonoids is dead. someone ran 12v from another source. If i understand this code correctly it is only electrical. There has to be a short or open in the circuit. Further, the ecm controls the solonoids via a ground, the 12v is always on. So troubleshooting, i should have battery voltage with the car in start, from the solonoids back to the ecm. So troubleshooting should not be so bad. Questions....Am i correct in my assumption that a clogged hose, leaky vac line etc has nothing to do with this code? What are the names of the three solonoids? In the rear, i have a large square solonoid, a smaller round solonoid. I tested both and they work with batt voltage. Iput junkyard parts in and still have code. Will the front solonoid throw this code? Do you test the front (under the intake runner) in the same manner as the rear. Will anything else throw this code?. And if I chase batt voltage from the solonoids back to the ecm is it safe to assume the open or short is in the ecm as it is not completeing the circuit? Dont want a wild goose chase