SGT.C

I was able to get the shifter back to Park (very diffiuclt) to get the key out, but still no juice when turning the key. I've got dash lights and headlights, just no juice to the starter (from what I can tell). Anybody out there got any photo's of what the shift cable looks like??? I'm a part-time "try and figure it out if I can" mechanic that could use any help possible. Thanks again!

There is power going to the interior....Dash lights, radio, interior light...all run. Headlights will come on too, but there's nothing when I turn the key.

thanks for all the help..... I'm not hearing a click when I push in on the switch, but like I said I can't get the switch to push in period. The black stuff had me a little worried, but after flushing the system and the fact that it did run for a little while, I'm hoping the head gasket is ok. One problem at a time fellas I'm going to try to get it up on a jack high enough for me to get under to the shift cable and I'll try some Kroil and metal protectant....Any telltale signs of the cable itself being bad? Other than it being broken I mean. Thanks again!

"Seems like regardless of shift lever, the car is not in neutral, so it will not start. I'd pull the trim piece around lever and spray a LITTLE PB on the linkages. Then keep working it until it loosens up. It has to go into real neutral or park, then you can start with the other issues. Flush the cooling system ,especially the radiator and burp." Even with the shift lever in park, there's nothing happening when I turn the key. Isn't it odd that it started up when I jumped it the first time? Ran well too, even with me revving the engine, but as soon as I tried to shift into gear....nada. I flushed the cooling system after getting all the black garbage out...should I do it again?? Thanks for the help!

Repaired 96 Legacy Wagon early in summer: Timing belt, W.pump,Tstat, pulleys, hoses. Started car...still run hot...thinking air bubble, drained coolant but only got about 2qts out. Took Tstat off and got a lot of thick, black, nasty stuff out. Put Tstat back on, car ran in driveway for an hour with good temp...Wife got sick, ended up in hospital, car sat for about 2 1/2mos. Last week i tried to start....no turnover, no click. Jumped battery with truck and ran for half hour. Tried to drive around, but shift button stuck and shifter won't move. Used screwdriver on override lever, but still stuck. Shifter in N (very hard to move shifter), tires won't move. Turned car off and got nothing when restarting, tried jumping, no luck. New battery, no luck. Anybody got any ideas? I've tried doing some research and come up with either 1: Brake light switch (or something) is bad...2: Alternator/starter.....or 3: Tranmission itself is seized up. Appreciate any help I can get.

So I ended up taking the Timing Belt back off and trying again. Using a tip from one of the posts on this board (removing the Idler sprocket to place the belt on instead of the #2 Idler pulley like Haynes said) I was able to get the belt back on without any problems. Turned the key and it started right up. Ran for about 10-15 minutes without problems, but when I got in to take it for a trip around the block I noticed that the Temp was pinned on H. I drained all the coolant and re-filled it (thinking there may be a big air pocket before the heating core), but it's still running hot. When I originally changed the water pump I put a new Thermostat in (OEM) so I'm fairly confident that's not the problem. Any suggestions for my newest issue???? Thanks in advance.

I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy 2.2L that had the timing belt go. Ended up coming completely off track, threw an Idler pulley in the timing belt cover and burnt out the water pump. I ended up replacing the Water pump, Thermostat, Timing belt, idler pulley, timing belt cover and all gaskets involved. When I tried to start it up it seems like it won't "catch" to start. It turns over and over and then sounds like it's almost going to start, but all that happens is a loud click, the entire engine shakes/jumps and the starts just turning over again. I've taken it apart again (thinking that maybe the Cam had moved a little when I put the belt on last time) but before I put it back together I was wondering if there's anyway to check for bent valves. I'm a do-it-yourselfer that doesn't have an engine lift or mechanics tool set (got the basics, torque wrench, socket set, screwdrivers, C clamp, chain wrench, etc). Is there anyway I can figure out what's going on without trying to take the entire head off?? Any info/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sgt C US Army Ft Belvoir VA