derekdee

I tore apart the casing behind the steering wheel, cut some of the vinyl casing that held the wires, traced them all, found a connection that looked faulty. Tighten up the wiring and it works now. Now I'm having issues with the Egr valve and a shake at 47 mph. Wheels are balanced, ball joints and tie rods are new... I replaced the wheel bearings a couple months ago and am wondering if I just did a poor job. I tried to wiggle the wheel, nothing. I also fixed the ujoint in the rear diff portion of the driveshaft and it broke again. Going to have to make a trip to pick and pull this week. Good luck with the wiring. Check your grounds if its not that bundle of wires.

yea, I have an 06 Subaru STi with a blouch dom3r pushing 445 to the wheels if the car breaks down. Plus a double axle trailer with a brother who owns a z71. Got my bases covered, just learning how to keep my cool when the unexpected happens. Just hope someday that this car functions properly. Bought it with zero brake pressure, holes in coolant hoses, blown wheel bearings, worn pads and rotors and drums/shoes, and the notorious oil pump gasket with a noisy lifter. I've done ball joints, tierods, master cylinder, wheel cylinders in the rear, shoes, front brakes, 2 front axles, both driveshafts, ecm, O2 sensor... I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but I've learned a bunch. The oil pump gasket was definitely a pain in the butt, but such a joy to get rid of that noisy lifter. Is the coolant sensor, while standing at the front of the car looking at the motor, on the front right side of the motor? Thanks for all the help everyone.

Where's the coolant sensor at? I'm looking for it in the Hayne's manual and the pic just doesn't do justice. The stealership mentioned that to confirm that the ecm was junk was through the coolant sensor. Apparently the ecm was reading the coolant as 40 degrees at a cold start. Think they replaced the sensor and it was still doing it. I'll look into it though if you guys can point it out for me. Thanks.

you'll have to pull the throttle body to get the valve off. It was pretty easy job to clean it and reinstall, hoping it works. If not, off to pick and pull this week to get a new one. My buddy ended up welding the ujoint in, comedy, thing is pretty much indestructible now. This car is my daily driver, so its basically a learning experience seeing something breaks weekly on it.

yup, it boggs out if I attempt to floor it. I pulled it off and am trying to clean it before I replace it. Its only on a cold start that it does this, if it has already been driven for a bit, its gravey.

Hey everyone. I got an 88 GL, most recently the car died at a gas station after turning it off to refuel. After replacing the TPS and a ghetto rigging the air selonid, I got it to start. Although it was still running rough, so I dropped it off at the stealership to get a thorough diagnosis. They notified me that it was a dead ecm. So I replaced it and replaced the O2 sensor, hoping that the car would ride a bit smoother with some better feedback. It runs well, but starting it is a PITA. It will start no problem, but quickly drops in rpm and dies. So in order to keep it live, I have to hold down the throttle and keep it at about 4000 rpm's to get it warm enough to hold an idle. Once it's warm, no issues what so ever. From research, I'm thinking its the idle air control valve. Can you guys fill me in or provide some suggestions. Also, I started getting a mean shack starting at about 20mph, horrible at 47. Got the wheels and tires balanced, still there. So I got under it and started messing with the driveshaft. Sure enough, about an inch of play in the rear diff side. I already replaced the front tranny side with a pick and pull part, but decided this time to buy a new u joint. Is it possible to replace these u joints? There's no retaining c clip indentation on the shaft, there's about 8 or so chiseled indentations that hold the caps in on the factory u joint. Let me know, thanks.

Isn't it odd that they all went at the same time though? It was right after I disconnected and reconnected the new ecm, hence thinking they were all related. I'll check the fuse again. I figured it was just a bulb in regards to the dash and the front headlight. Then I got pulled over for the tails. Hoping that I didn't fry any wiring, hoping its all fuse related.

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll connect that wiring tonite. As for the alternator, wouldn't i habe a dead battery? It starts fine, I get 12+ volts on the dash gauge upon starting. I was reading in another thread about ignition wires running to the fuses? Does the ecm channel power to these lights? Or is it straight from the fuses to the bulbs?

Hey everyone. I got an 88 subaru gl that straight died on me one day. Not slowly, just wouldn't start. I had it towed to a friend's shop, where he determined it was the ecm that was malfunctioning. Had a dealership warrant his claim for an additional 100 bucks, apparently the coolant was reading 40 degrees from a cold start and it wasn't holding an idle, tough to start... They also mentioned I was missing the wiring from the ecm to the O2 sensor. Therefore, I replaced the ecm twice now, the first one was blown, the second has at least allowed me to idle and start the car alittle easier. I'm assuming that its having troubles starting and riding rough, jerky, throughout the gears, due to the lack in feedback from the sensor. Went out and bought a bosch oem replacement, yet after installing the sensor, noticed that the wiring had been replaced with some ghetto lead wire. My question, how do I rewire the ecm wire leading to the sensor which consists of a white wire and another wire encasing that with black casing on it, seeing the sensor wire only has one wire encased in the wire casing. My other question is why my driver side headlight went dime, the dash lights went out and the tail lights are dimmed too??? I checked all the fuses, they looked good, including the inline under the hood. I can replace those just for piece of mind, but would love to be riding legal seeing I got pulled over last night for the tails. Thanks.

Nice. Sounds like my situation, my 14mpg 410whp STi. Running e85 in it, which doesn't help my gas economy at all. Did you get the Loyale locally? How much? I'd like to eventually get something a bit newer, just hoping that this thing can make it up little cottonwood during the winter months. Pretty much the whole reason I purchased it.

Thinking its that or the skid plate, didn't really wrench it on as tight as I probably should of. I figured that I'd most likely need to get back under there after those gasket replacements. You living in SLC? The fall seriously comes and goes in a matter of a week. No complaints, seeing I love the snow. Driving and skiing in it. What year and model do you have?

So what I have noticed the past two days of driving it, not that I'm complaining, but when down shifting, I get that lifter rattle. Any guesses? Not sure if its an exhaust piece rattling or that dirty lifter. Thanks guys for all your suggestions.

Changed it about 2900, figure I'll change it again either before 3000 or when the temperatures drop here. I live in SLC, UT, where there really isn't four seasons. It goes from 90 plus degrees to 30. I'm also a distributor of amsoil oil, so everything is at wholesale prices. If you guys need anything, from oil to filters, let me know.

81EA81, you were right. The pressure came back and the ticking stopped. Its almost odd driving it around without the racket of that lifter. Now I have to figure out why the car shakes. Thinking its some unbalanced tires, or at least hoping. Balljoints, tierods and wheelbearings are all changed in the front, and the shaking seems to originate there. How long do these gaskets typically last?

I ran it long enough to burp the radiator. I bought this car off a guy that kept track of his oil changes religiously, yet when I initially changed the oil, the filter looked like it was about ten years old. Not sure if someone never filled him in on it being pointless to change your oil if you're not going to change the filter, but bottomline, he was driving the car into the ground. The master cylinder and brakes were useless, I drove it back from Wyomming to SLC using the transmission to slow myself down. Sketchy. Well worth the 500 I paid for it though. I'll drive it around today and see if it gets any better.