kona

A sticky with acronyms common to this board would be really good for new readers. There are many, some subaru specific, some not. For example: NA= naturally aspirated (as in not turbocharged) 5MT = five speed manual transmission 4EAT = four speed automatic transmission SPFI = single point fuel injection MPFI = multi point fuel injection SOHC =single overhead cam DOHC = dual overhead cam Some I remain confused about: EJ25D - first edition EJ25 with DOHC? EJ251 - first edition EJ25 with SOHC? EJ252 - second edition EJ25 with SOHC? EJ253 - third edition EJ25 with SOHC?

"it gets 32-35mpg on hwy" - I doubt that. Are you sure it is actually the EJ22 engine? If so, it would be stamped into the aluminum engine block, clearly visible. If it is an EJ22, it is not original to the car. For the 1996 outback, only 5-speed manual transmission models left the factory with the 2.2 liter "EJ22". 1996 outbacks with automatic transmissions (and all 1997-1999 outbacks) had the 2.5 liter dual overhead cam "2.5D" engine, which is prone to internal head gasket failure, un-announced overheating, and subsequent failure. I would steer clear of the 2.5D engine, no matter how much work it had recently received, unless they were giving the car away. If you're still not convinced, make sure the receipts for work show the same VIN as the actual car you're buying. Those two ads are eerily similar. Less than $3k, consider a first or second generation legacy with the EJ22. 'General Disorder' has said many times here that the pre 1994 first gen legacy offers the most bang for the buck. Approaching the $4k mark, you might, possibly, get close to the second generation outback (2000-2004). It has the 2.5 liter single overhead cam "2.51" engine, which is also prone to head gasket leakage problems, but with a watchful eye, catastrophe is avoidable. The EJ25s have been discussed ad nauseam on this forum, run a search and you'll see. IMHO, the second gen outbacks (same platform as the third gen legacy's) are substantially nicer in terms of appointments and cargo space. I recently picked up a 2001 outback wagon with 122k miles for less than $5k. Granted, the A/C needed replacement, but the previous owners drove the vehicle for almost ten years. They had receipts for religious oil changes and for extensive maintenence from a reputable shop. Work in the last 10k miles included head & valve cover gaskets, timing kit, clutch kit, new axles, brakes, tires, etc. For my buck, this ownership history was clutch on a 10+ year old car. Hope this helps; good luck.

ha ha... sorry! I wondered if that was the case but couldn't remember...

^^^like he said. the EA82 has only 90hp, but rev up to 4000+ RPMs before shifting, you might be pleasantly surprised.

thanks for the idea. will i be able to replace the foam in the main cushion as easily? The bolster on the seat back is also failing, but I could live with this if the seat bottom were sorted. any comments on overall comfort cloth vs. leather (temperature not withstanding)? GrossGary?

Replacing the drivers seat in my 2001 outback wagon: should I go leather or cloth? should I stick to the second gen outback seats? currently have heated power cloth, and want replacement to have heat and power. previous owner was BIG and the bolsters on the drivers seat are worn and sagging. researching here suggests the leather seats are significantly more comfortable than the cloth. any thoughts on this? hoping someone with lots of drive time in both cloth and leather would comment. I'll be in the desert at least one more year so leather isn't as ideal as cloth for temps, but if they're more comfortable/less likely to get sagged out, I'm open

lucky for brainpowerr

very cool thread. thanks from me and the other armchair mechanics out there...

congrats! great looking car.

sent by email. good luck.

thanks everyone for the input. with some local encouragement (thanks will), i'm moving forward incrementally. for starters, we removed the PS pulley and added a shorter belt (the pump and lines are still in/connected to the rack). after some driving, I'll either pull the pump and cap the rack or install a known unit with ATF. Driving is not bad at all. It actually feels more natural than the oversteering provided by the PS system. My only concerns are keeping the vehicle stock (minor concern) and damaging the rack (primary concern). dennyt, how many miles have you gone without fluid? Anybody else have thoughts or experience with such?

88 GL Wagon 5 speed D/R 4x4 Power steering pump is leaking. Thinking of bypassing the pump pulley. Will I damage the PS rack if the pump isn't in use?

I thought this thread was in the older gen forum, but maybe it wasn't...or maybe it was. Thanks for the replies. Wish you guys were closer. Sierra vista isn't that far...but its not that close either! Ever come into Tucson? Anyway, I'm nearing a breaking point here. I love the sub, it meets most of my needs. But as has been stated here many times, unless one has the means to work on these cars oneself, they're just not economical to keep around. I've read plenty and would like to do work myself, I just don't have any experience. I do have a decent mechanic, but he doesn't know the EA82 platform. So, I need some help. I'm no pain in the rump roast pariah. I have cash and I have beer. Anybody out there willing to meet up and give some input? Or direct me towards an EA82 mechanic in Tucson? Cheers.

Any EA82 enthusiasts in Tucson feel like helping a subaru/wrenching newbie? My 88 GL SPFI D/R 5 speed wagon runs pretty well. But the basic nickel and dime game has begun and I could use some input and advice, or even just encouragement. it would be cool to meet another person with old school subaru love.

sending a pm....now that i have 10 posts.

also, i'm preparing to do this swap for my 88 GL with power steering/no AC GD - are you still supplying these units?

reviving this important thread. bummed that the pics from GD's original post are gone. IIRC, they were useful and relevant.

new radiator and hoses, new clutch cable, new tires

thanks for the input. just what i needed. cheers.

88 gl wagon d/r stock suspension. Eventually as a summer camping/ winter ski rig maybe 2" lift. dirt road touring, not wheeling.

I know there are tons of threads but I need some quick advice. I finally got a local seller with 14" pugs I can choose between the old 504 steels (non-beveled lug hole with weird washer lugnut) or the 14" alloys. the price is the same, seller has some lugnuts for either, but probably not a complete set for either. So obviously lugnut availability will be a challenge...but with new rubber on my 13s, I'm not in a rush. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/wheels.html#pug14 steel sounds more durable but those old lugs w/washers seem sketchy and near impossible to find. anybody ever run these 504 wheels without the original nuts? He may have a complete set for these. alloy might look nicer (depending on condition), but may be less durable. he probably has fewer lugs and few if any center caps. Thanks a heap.

was this from tucson, on craigslist for over a month? looks way better than the original CL photos. nice one!

Thanks for the welcome and nice messages. I have virtually no auto wrenching experience and am clearly out of my league on this board. That said, I have a Chilton's manual, know how to use the search function and am looking forward to some maintenance work on my own and with a helping hand. This seems like a reasonable car to get experience with basic stuff. The PO really talked up the headlight covers and the number of lamps they saved him from buying. He also mentioned that dropping the hood was what caused them to crack, so caution for future owners. A quick google search indicates this is the part number for the headlight covers: WAD7282273 and that they're not terribly expensive: http://www.drivewire.com/search/?N=0&sv=0&VN=4294967240+4294964890+4294964686+4294967247+4294967215&Ntt=headlight+cover&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29. The A/C option wasn't selected on this vehicle, which I believe originated in western WA. A/C is always nice in the desert...but as mentioned I'm better off without it in this oldie. I'll do my best to limit the driving to the cooler hours or up in elevation. Yes, the heat here is intense and parching, as most evidenced in the paint and window seals. Fortunately he had a dash cover all these years so that isn't cracked. Citing the heat, the PO reportedly did the timing belts every 30k...but he also drove 5-6k/yr. The current timing belt has less than 1k. Glad to know a full size spare will fit under the bonnet...had planned to check when I get new tires. I haven't measured yet but wondered if the stock spare wheel is appropriately deep. Thinking of going with a 175 70 R13 because more options seem available and 10mm width seems minimal since mpg is a primary concern. Any thoughts or preferences? Keeping the spare under the hood is great by me, that leaves more room for the bike rack in the rear. Plus that will mean one less pin to pull/arm to swing to access the hatch. That said, this SJR bumper looks like just what I had in mind: I wonder what that costs to purchase/ship?! Cheers.