two85s

Thanks AKgandi for your help. I'll report back here how it goes. Aaron

I am waiting for parts to do the rear axles. Thanks for the advice everyone! Two more questions. 1) Do I need to replace used roll pins if so what size (part #) are they or is it fine to reuse the originals? 2) What's best way to clean old grease and dirt out of joints before putting in the new? thanks, Aaron

Hey thanks AKghandi, is a lift kit required to get the larger tires?

grossgary thanks for the help! Two more questions? 1) The boot clamps installed with the correct tool Vs. heavy duty zipties Vs. large hose clamps to firmly clamp the boots to the axles. Which is best? 2) My wagon currently has the stock 13" wagon wheels. If I get a set of pugs or simillar larger wheels so I can get better offroad tires, will I have to change the axles then too? Thanks if I can help you sometime please let me know, Aaron

I very much appreciate you help grossgary. My rear axles look to me like they have DOJ's on each end. So to reboot them myself I need 4 boots, clamps (ZIPTIES some members say to use), tools, and grease. Where would you order boots or boot replacement kits? Aaron

Good luck with your trip and film. There must be a few top notch Subaru Wizards in Seattle to do that Weber swap for you. The experienced members on this board are on it. I brought my wagon from Denver and it had a altitude compensator and still has the Hitachi carb. I have heard MUCH praise for the Weber carb swap and I would do it if I lived in different zip code. Beware of possible smog illegal issues and don't discard the original parts, linkages, gaskets, hoses, ......everything. Pack it all in a large box and ship it to your destination. You might need them in future or someone on this board may be very very grateful to you for saving them. Please post a link to your film when you can. Best of luck, Aaron

Nice job! I hope you rethink and hang on to that beauty if possible. But good luck with the sale if you do ebay it. Take care, Aaron

Akghandi thanks for the honesty. My wagon had all original axles (and boot rubber) that lasted 33-34 years, I have two left, the rears. The two fronts went to rock auto as "cores" and were propably scrapped (my guess). I want to know also if the internal parts, the inner race, the spring clips, etc can be replaced with new parts. I have not done this type of work and don't mind so it is done right and I can rely on it for years and years to come. Thanks for posting, Aaron

Hey grossgary thanks for the input. I replaced my original front axles on my wagon with "cardone" from Rock Auto once and less then 500 miles the passenger side axle innerboot split open on a seam. So they sent another and I did it over again with no problems since. So for me thats 1 out of 3 defective. Now my original 1985 rear axle boots are failing and I want to fix both. My wagon is d/r 5 speed manual non-turbo. A) You would advise me to purchase (2) rear axle repair kits from Subaru or FWE? or is it called something else? Then I will need two special tools a c-ring/ snapring pliers and a boot clamp tool and two different greases one type for DOJ (inner boot) and one type for CVJ (outer boot) correct? (referring to Numbchux axle rebuild thread) C) Do you know a USMB member/shop who sells (rebuilt to subaru specs) axles? D) Also, when doing this should I get new wheel bearings, seal(s) for differential, or any other tasks (or parts bought) that should or would be recommended be done while I have the items taken apart? Again, thanks for the help. Aaron

Hey AKghandi thanks for the help. There are mixed opinions about rebulding original axles versus buying new/ remanufactured ones. Thanks again, Aaron

I have not had the wagon retested yet. Once I get it resmogged I'll will post the outcome. Sorry for the delay but it's just the way it has been lately, thanks all. Aaron

Bump.. whats best repair-rehab rear axle boots (if so what parts to order/ rock auto okay?) or replace the axles with remanufactured ones? Thanks

Hey roadsubiedog, I have not had the wagon retested yet. I haven't done anything more except burn 2/3 of the tank down with that product "guaranteed to pass smog" in it. I think Tues or Wed I'll be getting it tested and I will post results after including a photo of the smog test figures. I don't drive the wagon daily so using a full tank takes longer for me. Thanks for asking and take care, Aaron

I have a 85 gl 4WD dual range wagon. It has "EA82" large and stamped in the metal of the engine. It is located in front of the carburator approx in the middle of the engine, behind a plastic "cover plate"on my car. THe EA82 stamp may be covered with grime, grease, etc. I had a similar problem to what you are describing and I did many of the "fixes" you have done. Almost by accident I found my problem was a vacuum line cap to an unused tube had been knocked or fell off. Once I capped the open tube off....bang the engine came back strong. There are many very knowledgeable Subaru experts on the USMB. Aaron

I thought I'd add a question here. I noticed a torn boot on passenger side rear axle and the driver side boots are looking worn too. These are the original axles, how would you guys recomend replacing or repairing them? I want to do the same to both axles at the same time. Also, when doing this should I get new wheel bearings, seal(s) for differential, or any other tasks (or parts bought) that should be done while I have the items taken apart? Thanks for the help. Aaron

Hey roadsubiedog, I have not had the wagon retested yet. I have done the following: 1) removed and inspected the EGR. It wasn't clogged up with chunks or pieces of anything but has charcoal black coating on passages and ports. I moved the valve open and closed and put a finger on the vacuum line connector and it had good suction. The valve remained in position until I removed my finger. IMO the EGR seemed fine. The small 90 degree elbow vacuum line hose (numbered 5504) was loose on the nipple coming off the intact manifold. The hose is hard and rigid and I thought maybe it was leaking vacuum and not actuating the EGR as a result so I replaced it with a different hose that fits snug on EGR and manifold nipples. This may have been the big gross polluter culprit...I don't know.?? 2) I had an almost empty tank of gas and I added 1 can of Sea Foam to that gas then I drove until the tank was empty. 3) I filled the tank with 91 octane and added 1 bottle of "Guaranteed to Pass Smog" product, which according to instructions says retest after a full tank is run through the engine. 4) I changed my oil and oil filter. Yesterday while crawling under the car I noticed an exhaust leak coming from an exhaust pipe flange connector before the muffler and I am wondering if that would cause NOx to exceed limits. My car has no appearence of smoking whatsever, runs with good power, idles about 800 rpm but it does have a slight "off balance" kind of idle. So I plan to remove the bolts and put a new gasket in a clamp down on it with new bolts. So thats the update as of now. I plan to fix that exhaust leak and run out the tank of gas with the Guaranteed to Pass Smog in it. Then I'll add 2-3 gallons more of 91 octane and get it retested. BTW will a octane booster product help and cause an engine to burn cleaner? thanks for all the help, Aaron

Good luck with the project...I'd like to do similar with my wagon if I lived in a different zip code. I guess our California air doesn't mix with the rest of the earth's air....then these smog laws do make sense. I thought EA-81s ended in 1984? Thanks for posting what your doing. I read a good thread about this a while back and more members should chime in.

Skishop69, thanks for the info. I will do a combination of the tactics recommended in this thread. Then give it another test and see what happens. My suspicion is there must be an EGR blockage or maybe it has failed. Rock Auto carries EGR's but they are not the correct part. My part number book says I need #14710 AA170 which has the tube to connect to the "anti-backfire valve" (I think that's what it is). The Nox number on my report is very high from what I have been told so whatever is causing it must be profound. I will report back what happens. Thanks for all the feedback USMB! Aaron

You guys are correct I think they did do both (pressurize the gas tank and vacuum test in the engine bay) at the smog shop. Yep, I looked at the report and they are both listed "Pass". I don't know if I have a three way CAT but it is pretty new (2012). 32-37 mpg is fantastic and I would like to add 10 mpg to the 23mpg I have noted. Your 84gl serves you very well as has mine, I bought my 85 wagon in 1995 while living in Denver and it does have some classic snow country cancer issues. I have had two other 85 wagons but they both turned into parts donors. I will post what happens regarding this smog once it's done. So, thanks for the advice and best wishes, Aaron

Yeah, I am glad to look into it myself (save money) especially with the help given from USMB members. If I could get 30+ mpg that would be great and maybe miraculous. like Gloyale said in a post, "clean and lube advance weights in distributor and clean/ check EGR and ports etc." This is where I start. Also items you and others recommended like fresh oil and filter, high octane gas, (E85 sounds interesting), check for vacuum leaks, are related and important too. Would 8 degrees be better than 9 is a good question? "just wondering, do they do evap checks? pressurize the gas tank?" no elgigante the smog shop did not I am pretty sure. I will post what I do and a photo of the results from the next smog test. Thanks for the help USMB

Hi roadsubiedog, "timing has to be at 8 degrees" The smog shop said mine was 09 BTDC "is the cat even working? did they aim a temp gun at it?" The mechanic was confident the CAT was still good. I saw no temp gun used by the smog shop. "what kind of mileage do you get?" My milage is right about 23MPG last two times I checked it and the wagon has 215K miles. Thanks for the tips and help, Aaron

Hey AdventureSubaru thanks for the input. I will be using the tips I have been given here and will report back the results. The mechanic said make whatever changes are needed and then bring it to him for a test for $40.00. Will be close to two weeks before I have it retested. BIG thanks everyone who offered help/ tips, Aaron

Skishop69 thanks for chiming in and offering help. I will be doing what Gloyale said and you +1. The idea of adding certain high octane gases or additives to spike the fuel with a near empty tank sounds good too. The wagon has good power (noteably more after I put a new air filter in) and Idles well about 800-900 rpms so yeah I think the carb is okay. Regarding the timing: smog shop checked the timing and the report says it is "09 BTDC" and they passed the timing. So is that advanced or correct? No one has said an exhaust leak would be causing the high NOx so I am ruling that out, correctly I hope... Also, would a new CAT be a "sure to pass" last resort? Hey TallonX thanks for the link. I read it and am learning more about this than I expected. Thanks USMB members for the help, Aaron

Also, from what I've researched it sounds like if I have a new CAT put on. The car will then pass smog without a doubt. Is this correct? Thanks again, Aaron