BratWarrior

Awesome. I'm hoping to do the same thing. Thanks!

This should be in the "Wanted" forum. Give Mountain Tech a call. They might have something. http://www.mttechsuba.com/

Yup. That would be the one.

Pulled the front bumper today. I'll probably use the one from the donor car. Not 100% sure yet. They are both in pretty good shape, but need to be sanded and painted. The body area just under the bumper is pretty bent. The driver's side is really rough. Not sure what I'm gonna do about this. This isn't going to be a show car (yet), but I'd like everything to be straight. - Sans bumper. What have I gotten myself into??? - - Driver's side under bumper panel. Hmmm... - - Spray painted the tailgate emblem black. It was very faded. Forgot to take a "before" photo! I'll be repainting the letters with paint pens. - Still have to finish cutting the cancer out. Hopefully done with that tomorrow. Stay tuned!

Something you should check is the coolant passage under the carb that contacts the adapter. This passage MUST be blocked and blocked well. A tiny piece of screen material and jb weld will do the trick. Also, the jb weld must be sanded down so it is PERFECTLY flush. That's my 2 cents

I have the flush door with the turn knob. Want to swap it for the chrome style.

Yourself. This forum is such an incredible resource and has more than enough info to do ANYTHING you could imagine to your old Sube's. If you can find the time and have a garage, go for it!!!

How did you go about cleaning the underbody and undercoating it?

Update! I removed the front brakes suspension. I unbolted the strut and spring while it was still in the car and BAM! that spring flew off. Hahahaha. Wont be doing it that way again, but these struts were dead anyway. I'd like to replace the springs with something new, but Ea81 springs are impossible to find. I have also looked for RX springs to no avail. I would be willing to cut something to make it fit if anyone has any ideas. If not, the old ones will go back in with new struts. I also removed the headlights, surrounds and mounts. I have a wire to fix and will paint the bezels. - Dirty stuff will get scrubbed and painted. - - Gotta get that bumber off for sanding and paint. - Next I'll finish cutting out the rust (almost there) and strip the floor pans. I'll also start freshening up some interior and body parts.

What is the gold thing in place of the hex plug to the left of the crank pulley? Block heater?

Welcome. Use the search feature before posting, please! Search "engine swap", "ej swap", spfi swap", etc. and you will fing hundreds of useful posts

GL BRAT's have "Fun-Top" roofs. DL's do not. "Dilapidated Liability" HAHAHAHAHAHA

Interesting, but this door doesn't have a turning knob. It has a push button. Are you talking about this style door or the flush-body color fuel doors?

Unfortunately I am NOT going this year. Very bummed. I am interested in that lock though. Is that a Subaru thing or a retro-fitted deal?

Dang! Ok, yeah that would be helpful.

Hey all. I pulled the fuel door off my hatch with plans to put it on my BRAT, but the opening/ closing mechanism is busted. Is there just a spring missing or is the actual plastic housing broken? I can't tell as I've never seen a functioning one before. Anyone got any pics of their working fuel door in this style? Thanks! Also, check out my build thread HERE

Rust removal has started! I took a Sawzall to the floor pan today as well as a couple other spots. It works great for the large, easy to reach areas, but I'll have to get a grinder for the tighter spots. - Subframe support all mangled up. Note the jack stand for orientation. - - I'm a little stumped on what to do here. This is the support behind the driver's seat. The steel is thicker than the other chinsy stuff. Note the fuel pump on the bottom for orientation. -

Is this the gasket you need?

I might have some spares I can send you. I'll go through my carb stuff tonight.

They are very similar. The one benefit of the hydro lifters is that you don't have to adjust the valves every 15K miles. No power difference, just a convinience thing. They do sould a bit different. There is a PLETHORA of info on here about the difference. Use that search function.

Ah! Well then it's gotta go! Any tips on how to remove that crap? A flat head screwdriver is a bit slow... Should I use a sawzall to cut the floor pans out? Thanks for the tips.

Update. So most of the interior is out. I removed the interior AC box. The AC pipes in the engine bay were a PAIN to remove. The rubber plug gaskets were also super difficult. Took a while, and a lot of PB Blaster and swearing, but it's out. Now for some bad news... After pulling up the carpet and rocker pannel trim pieces, I discovered some pretty bad rust in the floor boards under the drivers side seat. UGH. - Interior out. Lots of junk in there. - - Gross. I'm surprised the seat didn't fall through the floor. - - More. I can see the ground. - - And more. The rocker panels themselves are in great shape, but right after the tac welds on the inside, is where things start to go south. - I have never dealt with this before, so any input is very appreciated. What I am planning to do is cut the floor under the seats of the donor vehicle and have someone weld them in. One plus is that none of the rust is in any easily visible areas. So when the new piece is welded in, it doesn't need to be real pretty. Also, what is the thick stuff on top of the sheet metal? Mine is very brittle and cracks easily. Is it sound deadener? What would go in it's place when I repair everything?

Welcome Lewis! Congrats on your new Brumby! First off... please please PLEASE use the search function. There are HUNDREDS of threads regarding every question that you have asked. Enough info to get rolling right away. That being said... 1st: EJ22 is a great choice for power and reliability, but it IS a big job. Especially for a first timer. Are carbureted EJ's common down there? If so, that would be much easier for you that fuel injection. No wiring harness to mess around with. You can also soup up your Ea81. Weber 32/36 carb, Ea82 SPFI pistons, bigger exhaust, a few other things, and you'll get your 100hp. There are a lot of options. Also, you should send me an EJ22 carbed intake. Thanks! 2nd: Get yourself a 5-speed Dual Range transmission. You need an adapter kit and must lengthen your driveshaft, but it is a straightforward install. Search for "Jerrys Kit". 3rd: Not many wheel options. You can get Pugeot 14" wheels with the stock bolt pattern. You can also get Enkies. You could repaint your stock wheels and make them look any way you want. A popular thing to do is redrill your hubs for a 5-lug or 6-lug pattern. Very inexpensive to do and you have an unlimited amout of wheel choices until the end of time. 4th: Cruise control is really going to complicate things if you are replacing or extensively modding your engine. Of course it can be done. These car/trucks are really fun to drive anyway! 5th: You can add power steeing fairly easily depending on your access to parts. You will need a power steering rack, lines, pulley, crossmember (or alter the manual one), the extended thermostat housing (it is larger on PS cars), and a passenger side cylinder head that accepts power steering. These heads have a mount for the PS pump. Now if you are swapping the engine, ou would need to use an EJ22 PS pump and do some other modifications. A few suggestions for you. Get a Factory Service Manual if you can, get a Haynes manual, download the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" book HERE, and read as much as you can on this site. The more I read, the more confident I am to tackle big projects. Also... have fun! Gen 2 Subarus (especially the BRAT/Brumby) are great cars and very simple to work on.

Ah. Gotcha. Yeah the resistor does seem easy to replace actually. I will check my other heater core when I pull it from the hatch. Right now I'm thinking I'll give it a vinegar soak, straighten the blades and replace the foam and roll with it.

Hmmmm. I wonder how important it is to use the exact same one. I found one for 1996-2002 Toyota 4Runners that looks very close to the Subie one. The Toyota resistor also uses 4 speed stages and the connector is the same. Check it out: http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/251874122695