BratWarrior

Update! Got the heater and blower motor out. Haven't figured out how to get the AC box out thith the hoses to the engine bay attached. Thoughts? Took the heater apart. Definitely ordering a new core from somewhere. Can't seem to find it on RockAuto. Anyone got a link? This job was a real pain in the a**. So many hidden screws that are in real tight spots. Can't wait to do it again with my hatch! Haha. - Heater is out! Any tips on how I should prep this area before I re-install everything? I will wipe everything down, but should I add some insulation? Sound deadening? - - Heater box taken apart. I am going to replace all of the foam. It's basically dust at this point.- - Old heater core. It worked fine, but I don't want to have to do this again, so it's got to go. - - So what condition is the blower motor module supposed to be in? Mine feels brittle. RockAuto is out of stock. How concerned should I be about this? Part link: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru?a=Referer+www.ultimatesubaru.org+URL+%2Fen%2Fcatalog%2Fsubaru%2C1983%2Cbrat%2C1.8l%2Bh4%2C1267691%2Cengine%2Ccylinder%2Bhead%2Bgasket%2B%2F%2Bhead%2Bgasket%2Bset%2C5412 Probably going to tear out the rest of the interior next. Please chime in! More updates this week.

Looks like that thing has some bad seals and rust. I would sell the dash. It's already removed! It has 2 very small cracks.

How bad is your dash? I have a tan one in pretty nice shape. Let's see the canopy!

Wow! The interior looks crazy nice! You even got the front mudflaps. Congrats from Portland!

Here's an update for ya'. Got the transmission, driveshaft, linkage, and interior consoles out. Transmission was surprisingly easy. Mounts were disintigrated. It was pretty scary! Did not get pics of that, but it's really simple. Also... Pulled the dash!!! My most feared job (actually that would be putting the dash IN). Whyyyyy did I pull the dash? Well, because I have a mint uncracked dash to swap in! Also, this is a great opportunity to get to the heater core without any cutting. I can also re-do all of the foam seals and get everything back there super clean. Wasn't too difficult actually. You just have to take your time and do some snooping with a flashlight. Here are some pics. -Linkage and consoles out, steeering wheel off and steering column dropped.- - Getting the three 10mm screws on the top of the dash. This is a little annoying, but doable. Space is very limited if you leave the windshield on (which I did). You have to pry off the 4 plastic fittings on the vents, then use a 1/4" drive socket wrench with a 10mm socket. You have to do tiny turns. Once you get the screw raised, you gotta switch to a 10mm wrench, because the socket is too tall. So for the record NO NEED TO REMOVE THE WINDSHIELD! - -Dash is out! There are three 12mm nuts under the dash (and the three 10mm on top) that arre holding the dash on. You have to unconnect all of the wiring harness terminals and unscrew 3 or 4 brackets that hold the climate control cables. This thread helped me: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144337-heater-core/?hl=%2Bdash+%2Bremoval&do=findComment&comment=1212690 - What lies beneath your dash (driver's side)! - - What lies beneath your dash (passenger side) - - HEATER - Excited to see what this thing looks like inside. - - Dash out. I pan on swapping the cluster over to the new dash. Debating on doing the led bulb mod. I will also freshen up any wonky solder joints. - - Anyone ever use Lectra Motive? Was going to use it to clean up wiring connections and whatnot. - Ok, that's it for now. Next I will pull the seats and carpet and start cleaning!

Search "emissions delete" or "weber swap" or "simplify hitachi", etc. TONS of threads.

You got it. Other than some staining, it's in great shape. No rips anywhere.

I think I am going to go for a solid lifter build with a hydro cam. Hopefully picking up that motor you posted about above this week. Thanks again for the Sherwood tip! I went today and got that console! Super stoked! Been looking for that since I first got the BRAT! The fender in the above photos has since been replaced with a non-rotted one. Someone real lucky gor the front mudflaps from that car. Hopefully it was you! Ok, on to the pics... -Uncut tan stereo console with Clarion deck! In amazing shape! Just missing the knobs...- -I also got super lucky and found a NOS Grant steering wheel adapter online! Once again, stoked.- Here is how the BRAT currently sits. I got the motor and crossmember out. One of the crossmember bolts was frozen, so I cut it out with a dremmel. Worked great! But why did I remove the perfectly good crossmember? Because I am putting in power steering! I really love to feel of Gen 2 power steering and parallel parking on hills without it has gotten really old. Haha. I have the complete setup as well as a bunch of other great parts coming out of my donor car, this 1984 Hatch. As much as I hate to rip this thing apart, I like the BRAT so much more, and the motor in the hatch has a rod knock anyway. I will be parting it out when I am through with it and will post everything on here! -The organ donor-

What JY had the uncut tan stereo console?!?! Edit: you said Sherwood. I'm on my way! Thanks for the tip!!!

Hahaha! In your experience, are the solid or hydro motors louder after a "performance" build? I don't want that loud sewing machine tick as this will be a daily driver. Interesting. As far as the jump in HP is concerned though, here is a post from 2007 that states what I was saying. The HP gains come from the introduction of bigger valves. Those were introduced in 1983. So the hydro and solid motors do produce the same HP as long as they have the larger valves. From GD "All 83+ engines were large-valve. Solid or Hydro - doesn't matter." from this thread- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79317-ea81-big-or-small-valve-head/?hl=%2Bhydro+%2Bsolid+%2Blifter&do=findComment&comment=660522 So what I am trying to determine now is, are there any real benefits of a hydro motor other than not having to adjust the valves every 15k miles? What I am thinking is use a solid lifter motor with large valve heads and a hydro cam, since they are a better candidate for a cam grind. My plan is to use the Ea82 pistons, deck the heads .020, Delta torque cam, and possibly port/polish the intake. Not too concerned with the Ea82 intake since the gains are minimal. Thanks for the tip on Matt. I will hit him up.

From what I understand, there is no HP difference between the hydro and solid motors. The HP difference is with the small valve and large valve heads. The HP difference is only 1HP. What I am concerned about is the lifter noise. From what I've read, the hydro motor is quieter when stock, but with shaved heads and a cam grind, it can be quite loud. I wonder if the solid lifter motor has the same issue since the valves are adjustable.

Thanks for the tip! I have a good solid lifter block with real nice cylinder walls that I was going to rebuild. I have read that the hydro block has a better cam because of the larger base circle. I do plan on getting a Delta torque grind. Is the hydro really that much of an improvement?

Alright! I'm starting a thread on the resurection of my 1985 Subaru BRAT GL. A little backstory... I purchased this thing in 2012(?) from an old dude on Craigslist. I wasn't looking for a BRAT, but just stumbled upon it while looking to get a car. I always loved BRAT's but sort of forgot about them over the years. When I saw it, I HAD to have it. So off I went to Welches, OR to pick it up. One issue... I never drove a stick! Ha! So I jumped into the fire and had to learn on the drive home. On the drive the BRAT started losing power and surging and dying. I pulled over and looked under the car to see the catalytic converter glowing BRIGHT red. Uh oh. I called the previous owner and he kindly had it towed to a shop and had his mechanic check it out. He figured the cat was deffective/clogged and installed a new one. I just barely got the BRAT home. Same problem. So what did I do? Joined the USMB! -The day I got it home after a much needed wash- Since I feared the new cat was melted, I took a rod and punched out all of the comb. Still couldn't get it to run right. Rebuilt the Hitachi carb, cleaned and tuned as much as I could. No change. I was at my wits end. I thought I'd been had. Then I decided to reach out to GeneralDisorder (Rick at Superior Subie and Import (before he had the shop)). He generously let me tow the car to his house to see what was up. Without much effort he figured it out! Are you biting your fingernails yet??? It was the ignition control module in the disty! It wasn't screwed down! Halleluja! From there we went over many other things and he imparted a wealth of knowledge. I am eterrnally grateful! So without going into the entire history of this BRAT, here is the short: Ditched all emissions junk, replaced ill-fitting header with a stock one, did the Weber swap, new 185/75/13 tires, new fluids, wires, water pump, DEEP cleaning, yadayadayada. It ran GREAT for a couple years. Out of town trips, Seattle hills, off-road camping, snow, etc. A really creat Bi-Drive Recreational All-Terrain Transporter. So what happened? It developed a few serious oil leaks that went unnoticed. This was my only car and I didn't have the time or space to address every issue it had. I heard some ticking and thought it was noisey lifters. Blew a headgasket, replaced it. ATF flush. New oil. Tick got worse. After a few hundered miles, KNOCK KNOCK! The damn thing siezed. And I was moving that week. Kill me. SO I towed the dead BRAT to my new apartment (with a garage!) and there it sat. For a year and a half. Life got in the way of wrenching, but now it's time to give this beast a new life! I will be updating this picture heavy thread regularly thoughout the build. I hope it helps people and I hope you help me! -Here is how it sits now. Sad, sad BRAT.-

Thanks for the heads up! There's a lot of good stuff there! I would love the kick step from the 82 BRAT.It will be on the passenger side just behind the door. Comes off easy with 4 screws. Looks like this: I would also love that piece of trim right above the step if possible.

You shouldn't forget another motor, engine hoist, 4 spare tires, etc... But seriously, you dont need very much. Here's what I always keep on hand. This all fits in my BRAT under the hood and seats. - Small tool kit (8mm-18mm wrenches, a few common sockets and wrench, flat and philips screwdriver. needle nose pliers, vice grips, cheap multimeter and test light, Steel Stick (or JB Weld), zip ties. sharp knife, FLASH LIGHT. - Spare belt, spark plug (1), Spark Plug Wire (1 long one), Disty Rotor, Ignition Module (if you have a spare), some sort of fuel pump, a couple assorted fuses. All of this stuff is pretty small. - Gallon of gas, Quart of oil, Gallon of water - Rope (strong enough to pull your car) - Spare tire (full size) and jack, tire iron. - One last thing... AAA!!! Saved my rump roast more than a few times. Get the premium membership when they tow up to 200 miles. Well worth the price. Have fun!

The search function is your friend. TONS of detailed threads about seats.

A template is a great idea! I will eventually make one for my Gen 2 BRAT

I am trying to order steering rack boots for my 1985 GL-10 Wagon. Has a manual rack. The OEM boots are crazy expensive, so I'm looking for an alternative. What are my options? Thanks!

Good news! When I first heard the noise, I sprayed a little silicon grease where the fan turns. After a few days, the noise has stopped! So that's good. Sanity restored.

Get those and tell me if they are any good! Haha.

Comes with meth under the driver's seat.

GROSS! It ain't mice corpses. Haha HA! New to me, my man.

It's gotta be the bearing. The blades look good.

So when the fan clicks on on my new '84 hatch, the fan is CRAZY loud. Like a loud whirl. I had to unplug the damn thing to get it to shut up (It's cold out, it's fine). How would I fix this other than buying a new fan? Have you ever experienced this? Thanks.

rrgrr, that picture needs to be a bit larger for him to see anything. I can;t stress enough about the shift points. When I first got my BRAT I was shifting betwee, 2,000 an 3,000. If you want power going up those hills, MASH that pedal to open up the secondary and keep the revs high.