WAWalker

All 2.5 DOHC engines from 1995 (MY96) to 5/1999 (MY99) take PN 13028AA072. All 105k replacement interval. There are 3 different PN for the 2.2L. The Cal. spec. belt PN 13028AA150 for 1995-5/98 is a 105k belt, and the price reflects this. PN 13028AA181 is the 105k belt for 5/98-6/98, and the price reflects the 105k replacement interval. Then the old PN 13028AA102 60k belt for all 90-94's and 1995-5/98 Fedral emission and Canada cars.

Yep, headgaskets. They will not leak coolant into the oil or exhaust. Combustion gas leaks into cooling system.

1997 Subaru Outback [Legacy] (AWD) F4-2.5L DOHC Top - VehicleEngine, Cooling and Exhaust.Engine..Timing Belt. Timing Belt - Specifications Notes30,000 Miles Inspect 60,000 Miles Inspect 90,000 Miles Inspect 105,000 Miles Replace Copyright © 2006 ALLDATA LLC Terms of Use

105k

I was going to put Legacy LS seats in my Hatch, but with the width difference I was concerned about interferance with the center console. Is this an issue?

I have a '91 Loyale sedan FWD auto. PO put a rod through the top of the block. I had a EJ22 w/ FWD auto trans. setting on the floor of the shop. Pulled the EA engine and trans. Dropped the EJ setup in. That part is simple. Haven't gotten around to pulling the wiring out of Legacy doner yet. One problem I anticapate is the VSS. But won't know till I get back to work on it, which could be awhile. Too many projects so little time.

Unfortunately when the problem is intermittent, you will not be able to pin point it with out duplicating it. Wiring failures are very uncommon, so if wiggling the wiring harness at or near the connectors does nothing then that should rule out a bad connection inside the harness connectors. Be sure that the large connectors on the RH side of the transmission bell houseing are pluged in all the way. Next I would try to reproduce the problem while driveing with a scan tool that can record all the sensor data in order to capture data at the time of the failure.

Wiggle test. Do you have a scan tool?

Had to cut the center out of the stock wheel and make my own adapter, plus horn parts from a Toyota adapter kit. Another time consuming project, but I'm happy with the outcome.

The plan was to lift the blue one in the first pic, till it was stolen and left upside down in a ditch. Wouldn't have taken as long to finish, it WAS in perfect shape. I'll see if I have any pre crash pics. Basically all the drive train from the blue one went into the black one. Then I was going to put all the blue interior in the black one, but the gray dash was flawless, and my blue dash had gotten enough sun that it got craked moving it around in the shop. The black car came from a liquid sunshine state, so the dash never got enough sun to make it brittle. Don't have a complete gray interior so I'm having to paint interior peices to match. Had seat covers made to cover the blue seats.

So it has been like 3 years in the making, but it is coming along. And I finally got a digi cam for the shop so I don't have to try and remember to bring the one from home. Started with............. And this............. One year ago after ice racing that turned into muddy ice racing. And buy the way, winning races aginst a SB powered jeep built for offroad racing. 3" lift, 14" 6 lug Nissan wheels w/ 185/70 14 studed snow tires. No interior other than drivers seat, and dash. Today:D . Doors are going to have my business logo on 3M body wrap. So I am just fixing the little dents, priming and sealing. Still striping the factory paint off other door...............this project may be another year in the making:rolleyes: . Got the interior from the windsheild to behind the front seats done. Minus door panels of course, since I'm not done with the doors yet.

Assuming that you broke one of the nipples that the vacuum lines hook to. I find that if you take the straw off a can of WD40, brake clean ect. and cut a sort peice to fit inside the nipple with enough sticking out to go into the solenoid you can super glue the nipple back on and the straw keeps the glue from pluging the hole and provides more support so it doesn't snap off as easy agin.

I pretty sure your right that EMPI is, or at least was the OE manufacturer for VW CV's, and probably other Europen cars. I saw a lot of EMPI joints and boots when I was working on that junk.

Love that movie:grin:

Have seen this before. That TPS does not have sloted holes for adjustment, but when you loosen the screws it can be moved a little bit. With DVOM connected to TPS signal wire, KOEO, closed throttle voltage should be ~ .5V. Loosen screws on sensor, move sensor to obtain lowest voltage reading, tighten screws. Also check throttle cable adjustment, and inside of throttle body for any build up that could keep the throttle plate from closeing all the way.

Not true.

Well I'm not sure how that would compair to the Napa new axles without knowing what your cost and markup is. I think Napa is selling to the public at $80, but I buy 10-15 at a time and get a sizeable discount.

Cool, if it is from an actual urethane foam air filter element it should filter just fine. Restriction as you say may be an issue, you'll probably just have to clean it more offten due to the small surface area.

So is that all you have for an air filter? I take it that the filter foam you are talking about is the foam ring made to go around an actual air filter? So your one an only barier to keep dirt out of your engine is a thin 4" round peice of pre-filter foam?

So have you ever check the parking brakes to see if they are working right and properly adjusted? Shoes adjusted to tight, parking brake cables hanging up? A dragging parking brake can (have seen it happen) cause enough heat to boil the brake fluid. When brake fluid boils, peddle goes to the floor, you have no brakes, like a bad master cylinder. And if the brake fluid is really old the water content is higher (brake fluid absorbes water) and it will boil at a lower temp. This is why Subaru recommends replacing brake fluid every 30k miles. Seems you have started by replacing the most expensive part of the brake system before checking the basics.

Subaru remand axles were supplied by ARI. ARI has went out of business. You will be able to get remand axles from the dealer till they run out, then it is new till they find another supplier. The local dealer here said $300-$400 for new. And remans from the dealer are not going to be in the $55 range. Napa has a line of new (not remaned) axles, lifetime warranty, probably your best bet at this time. On a side note, I see the rebuilder that did the axle in the picture got lazy and didn't put the dust sheilds on. ARI got like that right before going under.

I would recommend looking at cam timing first. Contrary to what has been said before, these engines will run with timing belt a tooth off. If cam timing is off that could accout for high levels of hydro carbons and melted cats. And also the fact that the cam sensor code keeps coming back. What cam sensor code are you getting. There are 4 different OBD II generic cam codes.

The backing plate screws should be check on EVERY Legacy oil pump. Subaru claims it is only a problem on the 2.5L, but I have seen many loose on 2.2's also. I always remove them and reinstall with red locktite. As you are looking at the oil pump from the front of the car, there is a spot on top left, and on right side about the middle of the pump houseing that you can get a screw driver or pry bar behind to get the pump off. I always install the pump first then install new crank seal. This way you don't have to worry about ruining your new seal.

To contribute to the hijack............Your power steering leak is coming from the pump housing gasket or the front seal. A seal kit for the power steering pump is only ~$20, has everything you need to reseal the pump. Timing spec for yours is 17 deg @ 700 RPM. Power steering leak is not going to affect your timing.

Price just the pistions for and EJ25 from Subaru, not cheap! Also CCR's engines come with new water pump, timing belt, oil filter, spark plugs, the timing belt covers are on, valve covers are on. Very little parts swaping between the old and new engines.