Nick_R_23

No I don't have the time to figure it out. In fact, it's (sadly) up for sale right now, along with all my ej22, awd, 5 speed, 5 lug, and disc brake parts. I really wanted to build this car but with winter coming and a new job, I'm not going to get around to it I think.

Well, it was doing great for about 2 weeks until I started it up about an hour ago and it started smoking again! Not bad, but the coolant levels dropped again. ************ing dammit, this is not what I needed right now.

I just found out that the 2 GL wagons I am using for parts up at the junkyard are going to be crushed soon. One of them is a 5 speed and has the clutch pedal stuff I need to convert mine. What exactly should I grab out of them to make sure I have everything? I know the pedal assembly, clutch cable, driveshafts, and I'm gonna try and grab the trans and rear ends. Anything else worth saving?

I have a 1993 Loyale with an auto that has the standard cluster without the oil pressure and volt gauges. I have another cluster with the oil pressure and volt gauges that I would like to swap in, it came out of a 92 or 93 Loyale. It's also a 5 speed cluster so it doesnt have the shift position lights, which I would like to get rid of. Will this fit right in or will I need to do some wiring?

Well, it's a small start. I took the rotors and hubs into work and sandblasted them to make sure everything was still useable. Taped them off and put some black primer on to keep them from rusting as much as possible before I can use them. Definately looks a lot better!

Not sure, I'll try and remember to check when I pick the car up this weekend. If I had to guess, probably 20-30 miles. I'm also getting a slight stumble when I hit about 2000 rpm. It'll clear up when I rev it up but I'm wondering if I ruined the plugs burning all that coolant.

Do I need to use the rear control arms? The car was rolled pretty hard (the picture actually makes it look good, if you can imagine that!), and the front control arms were bent, so I think the rear ones have a good chance of being junk as well. Is the swaybar just an upgrade to stock? And I'll definitely post up a build thread, but it probably wont be until next year. I need to get the Legacy fired off to see if everything's still in good shape. Currently it's not getting spark and I think the ignition module is bad. That and get all the parts collected so I can whip everything out in under a week hopefully. Also sandblasting some of the 5 lug parts tonight.

Well I spent some time gathering up most of the parts I think I'll need. Here are my donor cars: '89 XT6 '89 or '90 Legacy Wagon 5 Lug passenger side stuff (backing plates were junk, making my own to attach to the caliper brackets) 5 Lug driver side stuff Is this the crossmember I need for the EJ22/5 speed swap? It's from the XT6 but it was an automatic. Also going to give this a try. It's the XT6's upper airbox and intake tube. It fits the Loyale's airbox but puts the MAF sensor facing the correct angle for the EJ22. The EJ22's MAF is slightly larger, so I'm going to machine an adapter plate from aluminum to make it look all stock. I also grabbed the radiator, fans, and hoses from the XT6. The radiator is the same size as the Loyale/EA82 one and mounts the same, but I think it's a bit thicker, plus it has the larger hoses/outlets to match the EJ22. Not sure if I'll be able to use the fans, but I have them if I need them. Any comments or suggestions?

The manual recommended 47ft/lbs for the 3rd step, I retorqed all the bolts to 57ft/lbs.

Thank you, that is exactly the info I was looking for. I have just 2 things I want to clarify: On the XT6 rear hubs, they will just fit right on the EA82 rear spindles, correct? On the front, I would like to use the Legacy/EJ front end parts to match up with the EJ22/5 speed I want to swap in. I'm assuming I need to use the strut assy, spindle, hub, brakes, all from the Legacy. Do I still need to use an XT6 control arm or ream out the stock one if I use the Legacy stuff? Do I still need to change out my tie rod ends as well?

Knock on wood, the problem seems to be fixed! Took it on a few test drives yesterday and it didn't smoke the whole time. I'll be driving it around more today and periodicly checking the coolant just to be sure. Lesson learned: Even if you spend the extra money for the non-retorque headgaskets, retorque them anyway!

Automatic transmissions usually have a column interlock, meaning the car has to be in Park in order for the key to be removed/turned all the way back. I'm not sure if Subaru's are cable or electronic, but it's most likely your issue.

Well, I came out again this morning after the drive last night, and the reservior is dry and the coolant level is about 6" down in the radiator again... How many psi can I safely pressurize the radiator to, without having to worry about ruining a gasket or the radiator?

Already checked and replaced both the intake gaskets and the intake manifold itself. Well, I put it back together and test drove it around for the rest of the day. It seems to be holding coolant now, and it's only smoked twice for just a little bit at a time. It's also only sucked in about an inch on the reservior, instead of sucking it dry and about 6" down in the radiator like it had been doing. Maybe I just need to drive it and let everything 'wear in'?? The hell if I know, I've had some tough problems to chase down before, but this car just makes my head hurt.

Well, I'm completely at a loss now. I pressure tested the radiator and found a few very small leaks (mostly just the coolant line into the throttle body-replaced the crappy stock clamps), but I can't hear or see any leaks into any of the cylinders. The radiator is holding fine at 18psi as well. I thought I heard a small leak in cyl #2 last night, I stuck a tube down in and got a very small bead of coolant, but I can't get it to do it again today. I've tried rotating the engine while the radiator is under pressure in case there might be a crack in the cylinder or under a valve, but nothing. I might try pressurizing the cylinders again at 125psi, but if it smokes right after it starts up, I would think the leak would be a bit more obvious?

One other thing I've noticed is that when I'm test driving it, it'll burn coolant until it empties the resevior and about 4-5" down in the radiator, then it'll stop burning it. I won't see any more smoke until I try to top it off again. I'm also confidant it's not leaking at the intake gaskets, since when I removed the first set I put on there they sealed very well and didn't have signs of leakage on them. I also flat sanded the intake and head to make sure the surfaces were perfect. The freeze plugs are fine, it's not leaking coolant on the ground or into the oil, it's just burning it.

I've got probably 20 miles or so on it since it's been done. I test drove it again this morning and it's still burning coolant. It seems to be getting to at least 3 cylinders. So far its had new headgaskets, checked the heads over for cracks (didn't see any, other than typical between valves), checked cylinders for cracks, redid intake gaskets, tried another intake, new throttle body o-ring, pressure tested the cylinders to make sure it didn't bubble back into the radiator, and it still starts burning coolant right when I start it up. WTF car!

I have a 1993 Subaru Loyale with an EA82 engine. I picked it up with what was supposed to be a blown head gasket. I pulled the engine, tore it down, and inspected everything. The cylinders had no cracks, and the heads looked good other than the typical cracks between the valves, and those were minimal. I reassembled the engine and ran it for a bit to clear all the coolant from the exhaust, and took it out for a test drive. It did fine, but it felt like it was still burning just a small amount of coolant (slight stumble), and on the way back it dumped smoke for about 15 seconds before it quit. I got back and the coolant level had dropped in the radiator. I pulled the plugs and 3 had clean tips (burning coolant), so I pressurized all the cylinders and none of them bled off back into the cooling system. The only thing I could think of was that coolant was coming into the intake from somewhere, so I now have a new intake to eliminate a cracked one, along with new intake gaskets and throttle body o-ring again. All the surfaces are perfect, so if this doesn't fix it, where else should I look?

A few weeks ago I picked up a 1993 Loyale with an EA82 and 3 speed auto trans, and pushbutton 4wd. It supposedly had a blown head gasket, but I changed them out and it still burns coolant. I'm planning on putting a new one on to get by for winter, but eventually I would like to upgrade. I found an 89 or 90 Legacy that has an EJ22, 5 speed tranny, and is full time 4x4. The engine is getting really weak spark and doesn't run, but everything looks to be in good shape, and the timing belts aren't broken. I want to swap the EJ22 and the full time 4x4 5 speed tranny into my 93 Loyale. I know the EJ22 will more or less physically drop right in and will bolt to an older trans with an adapter plate, but will the 5 speed Legacy trans fit in the Loyale? I would really like it if I could convert it to full time. The main things I'm worried about are the shift lever position (since I'd be converting from an auto, are the holes the same, do I need to swap consoles, etc? ), and the clutch pedal/cable/etc (what all is involved in swapping one off another Loyale-I have parts cars available). Also, would the gear ratios be the same? I have read the Legacy rear diff won't fit under a Loyale. Is there anything else I need to know or just common issues/problems? I'm fully aware I need a custom exhaust, make a wiring harness, A/C lines, and figure out the radiator fans. Also, is there anything else I can use off the Legacy as an 'upgrade'? I.e. struts to get a little lift, etc?