SoobDood05

When you decel you are putting more strain on the differential(s) and the gears in the transmission than accell so that's likely the area where the problem exists. If the price is right and it runs well id do it. But I'm not opposed to ripping out a diff or tranny to swap in a new lol

Back to what i said earlier. +1 on what naru said

Turbosubarubrat has a point also. If the flywheel is under minimum thickness it could cause an issue. Higher mileage vehicles usually have sludge in there. Some transmission cases can be porous and seep gear oil and mix with the clutch dust. As well as the rear main crank seal can go bad and make a mess. But you'd be able to see a leak from that most likely. You'd have to figure out where it is coming from. If the clutch assembly had any type of contamination it should be replaced.

Fuses/circuit breakers are circuit protection devices rated for a certain amount of current (Amps) if its the incorrect size it will blow. if it is the correct size and it keeps blowing you have a problem with too much heat. more current than that circuit is specified for, so that means there is probabley a short somewhere, or something is pulling to much amperage and you need to trace it and figure out what the problem is. check for wiring insulation rubbed off or bare wires touching metal. the problem could be in the starter itself. it would take some electrical trouble shooting and a digital multi meter to figure it out. best of luck.

Usually when i come across a vehicle doing this, either the clutch disc is gone or the pressure plate isnt providing enough clamping force due to some sort of faliure. oil soaked friction material on the clutch disc could cause slippage as well, incorrect clutch pedal/cable freeplay might be a cause too because if the clutch is even slightly disengaged it wont be fully clamping.. you should have a certain amount of free travel before clutch disengagement. do a good inspection of all related parts and decide what needs to be done. maybe someone else can chime in. good luck.

If the heads are off you can put a straight edge on the deck surface to make sure it isnt warped. Chances are if the heads got that hot so did the bearings. Id say they probabley dont look too good. You could youll off the oil pan and take off a rod cap to see what the bearings look like. Coolant in the oil eats the bearings. Good luck!

Try rotating the tire from the side with the bad vibration to the other side and see if goes to the other side. Then you know its the tire/wheel. Make sure the they are balanced with no cupping.or weird wear. If you did the wheel bearing on the front make sure it has the proper pre load/torque and no excess movement. If you think the hub is warped maybe you could put a dial indicator on it and do a runout check. Just a few ideas.

I had my tank boiled out by a local radiator shop. I didnt want to take a chance of having sediment of stuff that had broken loose clogging up the pickup or fuel system again. Just remember confirm proper ignition system operation as well. They can both cause this type of issue.

Nice to meet you too caligirlz, what kind of subaru do you own, and what are youre plans for it? cheers, -Matt

Loud fuel pump and sputtering sound like a symptom of rust clogging the pickup or fuel return line.. but you said youve already been through it. Same symptoms I had with a clogged pickup. Did you blow them out with compressed air? CHeck the fuel filter for residual sediment and stuff. If you think the fuel system is fine. Check your coolant temp sensor, timing and ignition over real good.

I think that would be super expensive man. Honestly it would be wayyyy cheaper to rebuild an ea turbo and turn up the boost. Or ej swap it and it would be reliable on top of it. Although that would be awesome to see the money you would have to spend you'd be better off buying a brand new car.

Ive been taking all the readings with the ecu connectors unplugged. An ifdy ground is what I have been suspecting. But I'm not sure where this one is. The second reading I'm taking is from the check connector side of the injectors through them and to battery positive cable while disconnected. I used battery negative to check the ground too and a few times it was high resistance. Then another time there was barely any. The ground for the injector drive circuit is shared by the fuel pump relay/fuel pump. And the ignition relay. Ive had the pump not kick on before until I messed with a few things and tapped the ecu. Coincidence? And a few times id turn the key and it wouldnt crank. So I think the ground is a good suspect. Now just to find where its located.

Its an 84 2dr coupe 3at all original besides the adjustable fpr ive installed. I'm trying to source a new pcm at the moment.

So when testing the injector circuits the readings seem to fluctuate a lot. But I have source voltage on the control side of the injector circuit and the test connector side. So good. When testing from each injector on the check connector to the positive battery cable at first I got an excessive resistance reading of 5+ ohms on each one. Then the last time I got between 2-3 ohms which is within spec. At first from check connector ground to body ground I had lots of resistance. Then after a few hours i checked again and it went back down to 0-0.1 ohms. Within spec. But when I check the resistance from each injector on the check connector to the ground driving circuit for the injectors now I am getting between 3-0.556 mega ohms. Which I didnt before. Keep in mind this car runs. But has a steady miss under all conditions. No codes. And if you unplug the injectors they all make a noticeable difference. Any input from you subaru gurus would be awesome. Most of my tests are leaning toward pcm replacement. But I dont want to condemn it just yet.

I think a window banner would be sweet. I just dont like plain fonts lol maybe something unique as long as you like it thats all that matters!

Awesome! Thanks for the info. Also looking around for a known good ea81t ecu.

Since its fuel injected check your fuel pressure. Or use a noid light to make sure the injectors are being pulsed. Isnt there I fusible link to the injectors you can check? Someone else may be able to clarify See if theres anything electrical these components share. Always start with spark, then fuel, then compression. If you confirm all three then the problem is elsewhere.

Is there a check connector IV on these models? all the troubleshooting charts say use check connector IV to test the injectors. it says its a blue 5 pin connector and on the passenger side of engine bay. but it does not exist in this car from what I have seen. is this for 85 and up turbop models only? and also im wanting to know wich seat is the f/p relay is under and possibly the ground for the fuel injectors and stuff if anyone knows thatd be helpful thanks.

My 84 turbo had cutting out issues with a very loud fuel pump. Turned out to be a rusty gas tank clogging thhe pickup. It could be a number of different things. Weak pump, dirty injector(s) etc.. any codes? That would help you narrow it down. A visual inspection of basic things never hurts either. Plugs, cap n rotor. Hope that helps. Good luck!

My 84 turbo had cutting out issues with a very loud fuel pump. Turned out to be a rusty gas tank clogging thhe pickup. It could be a number of different things. Weak pump, dirty injector(s) etc.. any codes? That would help you narrow it down. A visual inspection of basic things never hurts either. Plugs, cap n rotor. Hope that helps. Good luck!

The ecu is definatley different., not too sure on the harness but there is obviously going to be different wires running for things non turbo doesent have. maybe someone else can chime in if they have done this conversion. good luck!

Don't forget that low oil pressure can also be caused by incorrect bearing clearances.

So after having my fuel tank boiled and cleaned of rust. i blew out all the fuel lines and soaked the injectors in cleaner. got it all put back together with the modified fuel rail to fit the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. i actually had the car running very well with no issues with the fuel pressure set correctly. then all of the sudden the car would not start again with the original flooding issue. if it does start you have to have the throttle wide open and it bareley will start at that and misfire badly. and if you let it die it will not restart. but if you shut of the key it will restart. when i block off the return line i cannot see any noticeable pressure loss so that tells me the injectors are not leaking. im wondering if my issue is with the pcm. i had it running perfect and it just shut off and wouldnt start suddenly. if the pcm is opening the injectors to much or holding them open too long then i think it would definatley cause this. i have no codes. some times when i turn the key over the oxygen monitor light flashes rapidly and sometimes wont kick on the fuel pump until i give the pcm a tap. unless its just coincidental i dont know. when the car does run without missing, it runs perfect with no issues. then all the sudden it has a terrible misfire/and flooding. so if anyone who has input please help me out. i will be testing the resistance of each injector and circuit. injectors for proper power supply, and ground drive circuits and other pcm crap.

Sounds like you have an intermittent connection. Find out where your power and ground wires are for those circuits and trace them all and make sure all your connections are good. Remember shorts blow fuses. Opens/ loose connectors and such dont. You can use your digital meter to test for power and should see voltage up until the open.

I would also check for loose control arm bushings they can affect alignment angles. shifted engine cradle, bent struts or strut mounts or previous collision damage can affect your steering axis inclination (sai) which is not adjustable. Worn or saggy springs can affect your caster angles as well. Just a few ideas if it hasnt been mentioned.