SoobDood05

I would also check for loose control arm bushings they can affect alignment angles. shifted engine cradle, bent struts or strut mounts or previous collision damage can affect your steering axis inclination (sai) which is not adjustable. Worn or saggy springs can affect your caster angles as well. Just a few ideas if it hasnt been mentioned.

I ended up pulling the tank. Tooka series of dirt showers geting it out lol Sending unit is pretty rusted. As is the inside of the tank. Its pretty bad so I am going to have it cleaned. Then I will blow out all the lines.

So i was beginning to remove the fuel rail and i pulled off the fuel feed line and the gas that started coming out was orange/red, and has a hint of old gas smell. i know this indicates old gas, but i completley drained the bad gas from the tank and have had about a full tank ran through since then. i put about 15$ 92 octane in it about 2 weeks ago once it got low and this is the first time the gas came out this color since the bad gas was drained. has anyone else had this problem with ea81t? im guessing i have some rust in the gas tank or have some build up somewhere. i cut out the stock fpr from the rail. i am thinking of brazing/capping one of the ends shut since both fuel injectors on each side are tee'd together from the same source. and using the one that isnt brazed to go through the regulator and to the return. any input on how you did this or anything else would be great, thanks.

I had already bought one just for this situation lol I have been meaning to do it bit I hate that fuel rail. Guess I can get my double flare kit out and out and try to get the old regular or cut out. I would figure ton put the regular or on the return line since its a vacuum diaphram type with gauge?

At first the fuel pressure would drop from 30 to 10 and stay there at 10 after leaking down each time. Then we primed it while pinchig of the return line. The pressure jumped up to 70 and after we let it go it went to 40-35 wouldnt leak down anymore. And the lowest pressure was about 35psi. So I think the regulator went out. Now it runs crazy rich. Will only start when you unplug no.1 injector clear flood and crank then plug back in. But runs so rich and misfires. Starts to burn the eyes lol I am in need of another car so I'm not sure how much longer I'm going to mess with this one.

Im sorry for the typo. It did decrease as temp rose just didnt note that properly haha. Holy smokes thanks for all that info though. I learned all that in school. But definatley a good read if you dont understand how ntc style variable resistors work.

Iknow this thread is kind of dead but i would like to just post a bit of progress ive made since my last post. the car will start and run, but during cold start it does run very poorly. it misfires and runs very rich, and sometimes it dies and wont start for a few. and once it does it will only start in clear flood mode. (throttle wide open while cranking) once it warms up it doesent misfire and idles well. but still stumbles under half to wide open throttle. light throttle it will not cut out untill about 2300 rpm or so. i have tested the CTS with a infrared thermometer and my meter and the resistance values progress with the temp as they should. during no start condition i have checked for spark, wich was good. and put a noid light on injectors, wich was good. and the car wanted to start with no.1 injector unplugged more than with it connected. so im thinking i may have a leaking injector. or am just getting too much fuel. any input?

it kinda sounds like fuel cut, i hit fuel cut in my 88 supra and it would buck cut out and come back. Make sure your not running to much boost. and youre wastegate is functioning properly. these engines have a knock control system for a reason. upgrading your turbo and exhaust will increase the amount of exhaust gas flow, in return will increase the speed the hot side compresser wheel can spin, wich means way more air can be pumped into the engine. all that air without being able to compensate for fuel means that your A/F ratio will lean out at peak boost or higher rpm and the knock sensor will tell the ecu to cut fuel or spark (however this system does) to prevent pre ignition and major engine damage. this is just my basic knowlege of turbocharged engines and control systems. IF its fuel cut id say the next step is fuel, bigger injectors, fuel pump, adjustable FPR, and an vaf (vane air flow) translator or safc, to control fuel and tuning. along with afr and egt gauges so you know you arent running to lean.

Got the battery charged up. Did a few tests. Decided the alt was bad. At the most convenient time at that. Replaced it and shes charging great now. It will start after siting overnight. The issue is only apparent after the car is hot and been turned off to sit for a small bit of time. then restarted. But the stumble is still there. Will update when I make more progress.

I got the car to start. Timed it and it actually ran okay. Didnt ping. Turbo actually kicks in now. Shut it off. Started rough. Charging light came on. Started to miss bit went away. Drove it to school alt drained my battery pretty sure. Batt voltage was 11.5v while idling. Started with a jump box, missed very badly. Died and is now a no start once again. I'm wondering if I have a bad ecu at this point.

I got the car to start. Timed it and it actually ran okay. Didnt ping. Turbo actually kicks in now. Shut it off. Started rough. Charging light came on. Started to miss bit went away. Drove it to school alt drained my battery pretty sure. Batt voltage was 11.5v while idling. Started with a jump box, missed very badly. Died and is now a no start once again. I'm wondering if I have a bad ecu at this point.

I bought a sheet of felpro exhaust gasket material from autozone. Its tan in color and a little difficult to cut. but with some tin snips it can be done. it worked very well for me. and its not that expensive for a pretty big sheet.

So the procedure in alldata says to alighn the timing marks on the flywheel the align the mark on disty. I did 0 deg. I tried that and it still wont start. The timing marks on the torque converter do not line up with the mark on the crank pulley. are they supposed to on an EA81t? I find it hard to believe the timing gears may have jumped.

So it looks like the firing order is correct on the car. I must have forgot how it went when typing that post. I confirmed I was at tdc with the no.1 spark plug out and a flashlight. the timing mark is correct and I am not 180 deg off. where I have the disty and the rotor pointing @ no. 1 with the reluctor wheel lined up on both sides. technically it should start and run. ive had someone turn it while cranking both ways full in each direction and it doesent start still. it just kicks over faster and puff puff out the tail pipe but wont fire up completely. weve been having snow and rain so its kinda difficult to get out there in the open with all the wind and work on it right now lol

Id say start by inspecting the easy stuff do a good visual inspection and make sure nothing is out of place or messed up.. Spark plugs, Dristributor cap and rotor, making sure they are not all worn. Throttle body clean, air filter free of blockage.. basic tune up stuff and if you have the check engine light on check for codes. just some ides for ya. good luck.

If you suspesct something is draining the battery then i would say get a digital multimeter and hook it in series with the battery cable. take off the negative terimal and connect the meter on the AMPS setting in series from the battery negative terminal to the negative cable with some alligator clips and let is sit for a while for the computers and modules to go back to sleep. then see what type of amperage is being pulled from the battery. i think once you get up in the 30 mA or 0.030 Amps Range that means you have a parasitic draw somewhere.. if you do use this method, make sure to not try and start the car or use and electical accsesories to avoid popping the fuse in the meter. Hope that helps. and good luck.

I'm pretty sure it was a typo. Its hard to remember without it right in front of me but I will check again to confirm it. The old disty cap and rotor had to be changed cause no parts were interchangeable between the old the new one and everything was out of whack in the first place I didnt have much of a baseline to go from. Timing marks on ea81t is on the crank pulley. I'll try what you suggested and thanks for the reply.

im pretty sure i have spark because it starts kicking over and almost runs but vibrates and dies. ive tried changing it a tooth or two in either direction and no dice. the firing order i have set up on the cap is at tdc with rotor pointing at no 1. i go from there 1-3-4-2. im using the timing mark on the crank pulley the small scribe mark at 0 deg. something just seems off. i know its not 180 off. because it was initially and it backfired through the intake. it gets so close to starting haha. and i know i have fuel too because i pulled the plugs. but 3&4 had more fuel on the plugs than 1&2 did.

new disty is in and hooked up. firing order is correct im pretty sure. it still will not start. I point the rotor directly at no 1 a tdc it wont start. it wants to but wil not actually fire up. it seems to want to start more when the rotor is pointed further away from no 1. ive been trying different positions forever and it just will not start no matter what I try. any suggestions?.

i did some digging around the forums and found a diagram for the ign/pickup module for the ea81t that matches the wire colors on my harness so I will go with that. im confident it will work. the disty should be here tomorrow. I hate waiting for car parts it kills me! lol I will update on what happens once its in. the car has been sitting for a few weeks now not running.

I think its normal to see a code 11 when the car isnt started, key in on pos., because it wont see a pulse from the ignition to fire the injector unless the engine is running. if youre getting it while running then i think you should be concerned. on mine i get code 11(ignition pulse) and 12*(starter switch open i think) when not running every time. but mines an 84 w/mpfi.

Break out an ohmmeter and test youre pickup coil in the disty., check wiring for hot spots or melting in ignition system. i agree with checking fuel pressure. check for spark, and how strong it is if you have it. and check plugs as well. you need three things to run. fuel, spark and compression. so once you know you have all three, you can diagnose from there. don't overlook the easy stuff. we all tend to do it.

i put a weber on a 76 celica with a water choke and the damn thing would take forever to idle down. just stook a while fore the choke to open once the water warmed up. i thought that was normal for carbd cars to do. although it must be annoying. im not too familiar with suby carbs. i like FI. but maybe youre choke is sticing or something. definatley double check for vac leaks. sorry i couldn't help more.

Ive tried looking around and could not find much for decoders, just some dead links. Try searching this forum alof of stuff comes up. I think Haynes and Chilton manuals can give you some info on you're car's vin. What about youre vin/car exactly are you wanting to know? maybe someone on here can give you a hand.