SoobDood05

You can do what i did, turn the engine to TDC with the rocker cover off and watch the valves/rockers, both intake and exhaust valves should be closed at tdc on compression stroke. also if you have it lined up right and it wont start, make sure you are not 180 degrees off.

I couldnt even find the diagram on all data. At least one specific enough. Could someone please post up a pic of wire orientation for the inside of the ea81t dizzy? I need to know what wiires go to each terminal.

New one is ordered and on the way. i will just need to figure out where each wire goes to plug the new distributor in. on the ignition module inside it. i looked in the manual and couldnt seem to see it in there.I am stumped as to why someone would have put the wrong one in this car in the first place lol

Dude thankyou that helped me tons. i am saving that manual for sure. it looks like this car definatley has the incorrect distributor. explains why it would always ping and never go fast because there was no knock control. looks like i need to look into getting a new one. rockauto has a few. i wondered why the parts store gave me the wrong cap and rotor for this thing.

Really? Thats interesting. I have the nippondenso disty. Has pick up coil 2 wires go to ignition module, then two wires out to harness. Harness has two extra female connectors that have no wires going to them. Could someone maybe give me an picture of there ea81t distributor and wiring?

Pickup coil test out good. 158 ohms. spec is 130-190. air gap is .010" wich spec is .08-.016" wich is the nippondenso disty. looks like its ben replaced before. has part number written on the back of it. and the plastic cover over the ign module and pickup are chipped from someone trying to pry them off.

Okay. just got the compression test done. I have 120-122psi across the board. and they all hold very well. I used a different type of spark tester( Gap jump type) and it seems there is no spark there now. wich there was before so this is weird. if I put the spark tester inline with the coil I can hear it zapping but it wont jump the .040" gap. I don't think I have a good enough connection. but atleast I know spark is coming from the coil. but anything after the disty I cant get anything. wich I did have spark last week when I chacked And yes when the plugs do foul they all foul evenly. now I just have fuel soaked plugs. so I guess its time to find out where my spark went. I will check the other stuff you guys suggested as well. I was curious if the injectors were varnished. but I haven't pulled them yet to see. its cold and raining so once I get the chance I will further diagnose the ignition system.

So it looks like the component I was checking was the auxiliary air control valve. something of an electronic thermo switch to control idle. I found the cts from alldata and its reading about 4.5k ohms at around 41 degrees f. wich is about right. spec is 2-3k ohms @ 68 deg f, and 7-11.5k ohms @ 14 deg F. The battery is starting to die down from so much cranking so I need a charger. im pretty sure the timing is right. the rotor is Pointing just before number one with the TDC mark lined on the crank pulley. the rotor is lined up with the arrow on the back stamped into the distributor wich I feel is correct.I have even rotated it 180 out just to be sure but no dice .Not sure if I am getting fuel/spark at the wrong times, or spark is getting blown out. im wondering if I have a bad ecu but I cannot find another and am low on funds. someone has been all over in the wiring in this car. I have been searching it all to make sure is all okay. any extra help would be great.

There is one identical to this in my town. Sitting in someones driveway. Been there for years. Its in great shape. Owners died and whoever owns the house never replies to my notes on offers for the car. Sweet ride! I want one lol

Used an inline spark tester and I'm getting spark. And the spark plugs have fuel on them so I have fuel. Anyone have specs for the ea81t cts this thing is very strange. Getting like 10 ohms at 50-60 degrees. That seems wrong to me. I took it off and it isnt even submerged in coolant it just uses an air passage? The movable peice doesnt change the resistance values either.

I spoke too soon lol right after I posted it would not start again. just my luck! I had just installed brand new ngk platinums. the coil tests out okay but there is a little bit of oil leakingout where the plug boot fits in. I cleaned it with alcohol and it started but runs like garbage and cuts out bad. still chasing gremlins lol

So I replaced all the old fuel hoses and cleaned out the metal fuel lines. made sure all wiring was correct got everything put back together with a fuel pressure gauge on it. it started right up this time. the fuel pressure is at 28- 30psi at idle. and raises with rpm. so I would say at this point the regulator or return line are not the culprit. it is running a little better. im getting a good burn on the plugs but there is still a miss at idle. and it still stumbles when I am driving after a bit of driving. I tested the tps, it does not have a clean sweep of voltage. from the green/red wire backprobed and black lead on batt neg, it starts out at 4.9v and once it goes to almost half open open the voltage drops right to 0.3v. I cant get to any specs for the tps at the moment. but this is where I am at as of now.

If you are going to run a higher compression ratio with turbo you will need to control timing and fuel so you dont destroy youre engine from running too lean. because the factory ecu wont know that anything has changed. if you get a proper air fuel tuning device and make sure the engine is solid it will last quite a while. just dont cut any corners, an old worn out engine will grenade eventually. depends on how much boost you want to run. you can change the compression ratio of the xt engine if you put different pistons in it. With high compression and boost you raise the risk of spark knock. wich is a scary area. you will have to run higher octane fuel and make sure you dont run too lean or its all over. if you can properly tune it it would be more powerful. lower comp ratio allows for running more boost without worrying about spark knock. More boost or higher compression calls for fuel system/ Engine management upgrades if you want to do it right.

It could be due to the fact that the gear oil is too thick when cold. hince why it works when it is warmed up, maybe try a thinner weight oil? or maybe synthetic. first things first make sure it is gear oil in it, and at the proper level. not too full or low. try shifting into 2nd, 4th. then reverse see if that helps. reverse is usually a spurr cut gear, some have synchros some dont. It could be a number of things, and would ultimatley lead do dissasembly and inspection of linkages/gears etc related to reverse. note any growling noises (bearing faliure) gear clash (clutch or worn synchros etc..) if you are fine with waiting for it to warm up then i guess just roll with it lol someone could have even tried jamming it in reverse and bent the linkage or something. hope that helps lol.

If you have a big enough leak you would leak boost pressure and the car would not boost well if at all. I would think you would run lean. Because introduced air after the afm would cause extra air that it hasnt added fuel for. But you never know it could cause a rich condition if all the aor is escaping before it gets into the intake. Check it out at idle and see where the noise is coming from. Double check all intake clamps. even check youre turbos compressor wheel for excessive play.

The regulator passed the vacuum test but that does not mean it couldnt be stick open/closed I still ordered the adjustable fpr with gauge to hook it up anyway so I always know what I am running. Also replacing old fuel lines as I have the metal fpr/fuel line unit off. Which is a massive pain to remove on this ea81t. Ive been inspecting grounds wiring etc. Thanks for the input all I will check out all the things you have suggested.I will fix this stubborn little subie. Just waiting for the rain to subside. Will update soon.

Going to install an adjustable fpr after the fuel filter with a pressure gauge. I think ny regulator failed and is letting to much fuel pressure to the injectors. Obvoisley there is no replacement other than aftermarket. I will try this and see if I can get it to run. I post what the verdict is. Any more input would help a lot.

With the new fuel pump the car will start but runs badly and dies. eventally will not start at all until you clean the fouled plugs and open up the throttle all the way while cranking. then dies once plugs are fouled again. its running way rich. obviously way to much fuel. I hooked up the pump just like the old one was. so nothing is different besides the pump. any ideas? it ran before would have no starts at times but it didn't run rich like this, it seemed to be running lean before because it would ping and cut out if I tried to accelerate. I tested the coil and I had 1.1 ohms primary and like 10.12 k ohms secondary I think that's right. anyway any help would be great. its getting frustrating.

I agree with whats said above. much more sought after than an open diff, either in the front for fwd, and rear for rwd, where when a wheel loses traction that wheel receives all of the power, whereas in a LSD the wheel that isn't slipping receives power by means of weights, clutch packs or hypoid gears to avoid "one tire fire" which therefore gives you better traction, or better launches.. etc..

I would say it sounds like the symptoms of a bad fuel pump. check that your'e fuel pump is getting the tools it needs to do its job while the issue is happening. pwr and ground without any unwanted resistance with a voltmeter.. you can also check fuel pressure to confirm it is an issue.. not sure what the spec is for tbi.

i dont see why you wouldnt be able to get reverse. id say check over youre linkage/fork for bends. and whatever relates to reverse gear on counter or/cluster gear . and reverse idler gear for chips and wear. make sure nothing is binding, and rotates without having to force it. just going off the top of my head, never had one of these apart but i have done a few others. find out what only relates with reverse gear and go from there. sorry i couldnt be more help!

i had the same issue with my old wagon they were cracked on the very end. i went to the dealership and they have them just a little spendy for hoses. if you find some same inside diameter pcv/oil resistant hose that would fit i dont see why it wouldnt work just would not be pre-molded like stock .just my .02

Thanks for the help everyone. I got a new one ordered today. Decided to go with the airtex. Plugged in the test connectors and after a while I got a code 32 oxygen sensor or circuit. And 34 which is the vaf I believe. Didnt get these codes before. And they went away. I guess I'll get the diagnostic trees from all data and test to confirm they have an issue. Any more input would be great. Thanks all. Love usmb.

Its the mpfi turbo engine. all the replacements dont seem to be the right one. they show lots of universal type pumps.

Hi all just as the title says i have a 1984 ea81 turbo coupe 3at 84k miles been sitting for 6 years. it originally had bad gas, drained put in premium withh new filter. car would start and die immediatley. new cap and rotor and now car runs but has a small miss at idle. plugs are okay, if i step into the gas it sputters and stumbles and i have to either let off or push in harder until it accelerates. today it was pretty warm, the car would not start back up it would just crank and crank. then i kicked the fuel pump bracket and rattled the pump and it started and died. hit it again and now it runs again. Im thinking the fuel pump is causing this. only code i have had is a code 22. Pressure or vacuum switch. but it hasnt came back. any input would be great. also not sure what fuel pump to get. replacements seem to be either 3-4 psi or 70-90. i think i need i need a 40-50psi pump? thanks for any help.