SoobDood05

well i know i have to make sure to route the cable under the heater hoses and steering column right? from what i can tell you feed it through from under the dash, i am not a big guy so i can get under there fairly easy, the clutch peddle is already off. thanks for your input!

I have searched through tons of threads, I found a link for GD's write up several times, But i cant get through to the page, I have an idea on what to do, I have never replaced a clutch cable, So I just need to know what all needs to be removed etc. Things to do and not to do, to replace it and make sure its installed correctly, Its a 87 GL wagon, The Clutch cable snapped. its not my car, once when i drove it i noticed the clutch was extremely hard to push compared to my Loyale. any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance!

Congrats on the subaru sorry cant help ya with parts, but ask around or look in the stuff for sale section, maybe your throttle cable is Sticky, but you should post that in a new thread to get input from the awesome people on the board:banana: welcome to USMB!

Wow Nice XT6 i wish i could get my hands on one, and i like the hatch too, there is only one of those in my town, its metallic light blue and an 80 year old man drives it:lol: like too see more pics, and welcome to the board:banana:

I always had wondered if something would fit there, maybe a small clock with an outside/inside temp would be sweet:lol: cause i pulled mine out too see why the clock didnt work, and found no circuit board no wires, nothing the p/o had gutted it.

hey man nice loyale. it looks clean, id like to lower mine, but i cant bring myself to cut those coils:lol:

Oh man those seats look Shnazzy:slobber: +1 i am also wondering if seats out of an older GL or XT will bolt right in to my 90 loyale? cheers all!

Its the Passenger side front door only, i found where the sensor is, i figured it went haywire when the door got smashed, cause the dent is right where the sensor is located, i had to take off a panel, then remove the seat, i found that while the car had been sitting in a feild for sometime just cause the clutch was bad and the owner didnt want to replace it, mice had begun chewing on the wires,(same situation with the windshield fluid sprayer motor plug wire) i taped it with electrical tape and now it works, but not the way it should, (says colsed all the time now) but hey its a 21 year old door sensor, not looking forward to find what else could be chewed up by mice:rolleyes: Cheers -Matt

Hi all, got a question about My 90 loyale, when the doors open it reads shut on the cluster, and reads open when its closed:lol: i wanna connect the pink plugs that makes the "tink tonk" noise when u open the door, seems the p.o unplugged it cause it was always going off;) the passenger side door also has a dent from the p.o hitting something too if that would affect it, i cant find the location of the sensor. anyone had this problem and fixed it? or knows anythin on this subject Id like to know, Not in any rush, just something id like to resolve:grin: thanks!

I decided to put on a jacket and take a look, i have found that the very bottom gasket of the throttle body, right under where the coolant hose goes in,(not sure what its called) has failed, leaking stuff (coolant?) out from almost all sides onto and under the intake manifold, Maybe mixing with old dirt and oil making it yellowish brown?. However, the intake manifold Gaskets don't look so promising either.. but you cant see marks from it leaking from all sides like the one on the throttle body. any more input would be awesome. thanks guys.

Thanks a ton guys, i will check the coolant lines going to and around there for pinhole leaks, as i cant find where the leak is, i just know its thick and yellowish brown(coolant and oil) its hard to see under there. will check the hoses thoroughly before i do anything major. will update once i can find more information on the problem, as its cold outside and i dont have a garage:lol:

Oh sorry, It's a 1990 Loyale wagon EA82 TBI, i cant find coolant on the dipstick, and it only leaks out under the intake manifold, i noticed the drivers side head has started ticking alot louder since the running hot problem too, i have never tore into an EA82 so im clueless as to why this could happen:confused:, and i have no money, so if i can pinpoint the problem, Ol' red will have to sit and wait for me to save up the cash. And yes i plan on Using OEM gaskets once i can buy them, ive learned my lesson from using crappy aftermarket gaskets:rolleyes:

Hi all, i think i have a problem but its not clear to me right now, i have never overheated this car into the red on the gauge it just got hot, ive flushed the radiator, changed the coolant temperature sensor and sender, and replaced the water pump, the over heating/running hot problem has subsided, the car runs just fine, but now the car just makes coolant dissappear,i replaced the water pump a few days ago, and ever since then it just keeps wanting to take more coolant:confused:, there is no coolant mixed in the oil on the dipstick, no smoke out of the exhaust, no coolant on passenger side carpet, but under the intake manifold on the passenger side by the EGR valve there is oil and coolant in a small puddle (something bad with coolant lines or gasket on the manifold?), thats all i can find its not much but its there:-\, i just want to know if they are bad so i dont do any further damage by driving it, i cant afford HG's right now either:mad: thanks in advance for the insight, and advice.

Wow thanks for the advice! i would not be able to afford a rebuilt engine at the moment, so i think thats a good idea, we have a radiator shop in town, once i can scrape up the cash i will have them Rod the radiator or a channel clean as you said, the previous owner has dented parts the cooling fins with wrenches and such and both radiator hoses get Equally hot but the radiator itself stays cool so i think it does need to have blockages cleared. i appreciate the input. -Matt

Went ahead and replaced that water pump today, (was leaking from weep hole and bearing was going out) also once i dissasembled everything i found out the previous owner did the timing belts, they are still fresh:banana: it was cool outside by the time i got done, the tempurature gauge never reached the half mark, i will update tomorrow when its hot to see if the problem still persists, and if anyone is wondering about the Pinging sound/Spark knock Etc, it seems to have subsided with the EGR fully functioning now, will update to tell if overheating problem is solved or not, Cheers all, have a good night:)

Its a shame isnt it? some people just dont wana take the time to fix em:rolleyes: there is quite a few of ej22s in the pickn pull yard here, newest junked soob there is a 93 impreza i think.. i would like to get an ej,( but i wouldnt know what to do with it or where to begin) maybe one day.

Made a bit of Progress with the ol loyale wagon.. I replaced a broken headlight lense assenbly with one from pick n pull, Bought a new EGR vacuum solenoid and replaced it, also put in a new temperature sending unit and flushed the radiator, Sanded some surface rust and primer-ed it, bought a new water pump today.. that is going on tomorrow:)

I have read through the haynes manual about the water pump, i am thinking it may be going bad, the gasket on the left side of it has a tiny leak, and there is a very small amount of water/coolant coming out by one of the bolts on the top of the pump, it would explain the symptoms right? the pump can sustain the cooling capacity of the engine while at idle coasting in neutral but once it is put on full force(highway speeds/Hard acceleration) it starts to not work as well/properly there fore the engine starts to heat up right? i am new to all of this and i hope someone can agree with me on this so i dont replace it when it doesent need to be:lol:, thanks all feedback needed asap:grin:

They write the cars problems on the windshield it will say (bad eng) Or (Bad Trans) so they could have been easily fixed, but they threw em out there to get picked off of and now they all just sit and wait for some love, or to get crushed! its very sad to see it:-\

Okay guys i was saddened by the amount of soobs in the local pick n pull yard (klamath falls OR) so i figured id show you what these previous owners did to their soobs, and here they are [/img] One out of two XT'S [/img] One out of 4 to 5 GL-10'S lots of older ones too [/img] Right hand drive legacy(mail car) there is tons more probably about 15 to 25 old scoobs mostly sent here with only bad engines or trannys, fixable problems, here i have no shortage of parts for mine when i have the cash! i took a headlight lense of an 86 GL to keep part of it alive cause it was headed to the crusher. cheers everyone! -Matt

Coming along good! and a free cutch? thats a steal:) keep the progress comin!

Pinging can be caused by a number of things(From my Haynes Manual) Incorrect Ignition timing Incorrect grade of fuel Carburetor or fuel injection system faulty Worn or damaged sparks plugs, plug wires, Or distributor components EGR valve not functioning Vacuum leak. Overheating Trouble shoot Water pump drivebelt bad or out of adjustment Radiator core blocked or grille restricted bad thermostat broken cooling fan bad rad cap incorrect ignition timing faulty cooling fan thermoswitch or fan clutch i am currently checking mine for these problems also, hope this helps nwtech

The car runs cool when idle or in neutral at stoplights or coasting, but when at highway speeds, accelerating quickly, or uphill driving the gauge goes up, ive replaced the rad cap, today also the EGR vacuum solenoid came in put it in not sure if it will solve the pinging but it ran great after cleaning out the breather hoses from the intake to the drivers side head (the one ticking badly), they were almost clogged with carbon buildup, i also ordered the temp sending unit (one by thermostat) just to rule it out as a problem. will update after i replace it tomorrow and go for a ride to see how hot it gets, thanks all!

Flushed the radiator yesterday, the car still gets hot but not as fast, and not as hot(but still hot) as it did before, and replaced leakey t-stat housing gasket with an oem replacement and doesent leak, t-stat is faced right position torwards rad, theres some difference, i ordered a new EGR vaccum solenoid, and radiator cap, hopefully this can solve it cause i dont want to replace the radiator with a cheap plastic one as thats all i have money for, i wonder if it would be worth getting a used Aluminum one?(pick n pull) any input is appreciated thanks all.

yeah i drive to the store and pack to buy a part for it and its gets pretty hot, im guna flush the radiator tomorrow put a new t-stat gasket in cause its leaking, buy a new EGR solenoid, maybe seafoam, and see if that will fix it, fingers crossed:slobber: