Red92
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Posts posted by Red92
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I'm somewhat surprised that the machinist would even be willing to do the job... (liability reasons)
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That looks pretty good for 800 bucks!
A little bit of paint work on that front bumper would be a quick way to make it look even better.
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If you've ever thought about installing a passive anti-theft system, like a hidden ignition interlock, now is the time. :-\
It should be cheaper than getting new locks/keys made, and some insurance companies will give you a discount for it.
Was anything taken from inside?
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Where can I get an old sign, legally?
You could try calling the highway department. They have to have tons of them that they replace when they are damaged, vandalized, faded, etc.
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Did you check in front of the radiator?
When the radiator end tank cracked on my Legacy, it took me a little while to track it down. I had coolant inside the engine bay, all the way back to the strut tower, and puddled on top of the suspension.
But the crack itself was on the FRONT of the radiator, it just happened that enough blew around backwards when I was driving that it looked like it was coming from somewhere inside the engine bay.
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This seems like a strange request...
1) Did you consider the fact that the factory airbags and seatbelts are designed to work together as a system, and that there may be safety implications (including additional injury) if they are not matched?
2) Why would you skimp on a safety item, on a car that has already received significant damage in the past? Crumple zones don't always work the same after being repaired - you will need all the extra safety margin you can get if there is another accident.
3) Is it even legal in Canada to replace a primary restraint with a different style that wasn't original to the car? I'm pretty sure it isn't legal in the USA, and it would open you up to tremendous legal liabilities, particularly if you sold the car and the next owner had an accident and was injured.
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Indeed. I argue with them that why is my premium based off my car being in retail condition, but when there's a claim, they dispute the value of my car? If my car isn't worth as much, then shouldn't my premiums be less?
No kidding!
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That's the "Alpine Sport Wagon", a special edition for the USA.
More info here:
http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive.html
Did it still have the engine skidplate, by any chance?
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The jumper wire test will definitely help narrow it down.
If it does come down to it, the switch is pretty easy to change. You don't have to pull any of the mechanical parts (the lock cylinder or housing), just the electrical part on the back. This is also good, because it means you don't have to get anything re-keyed.
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I wonder if there's enough room to the left of the drivers seat to put another lever. Seem to remember Pontiac Fieros having their parking brake there.
The Porsche 914 had it in that spot too.
(http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-cars-sale/325026-fs-porsche-914-1973-2-0l.html)
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always remember left is driver side and right is pass. side. like you were looking from the driver seat.
... except that isn't always true.
That's why they use left and right, instead of driver and passenger.
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Ya, I've been thinking about that, too. The problem is I don't know where I'd put all these brake handles.
On the old VWs, they just piggy-backed the extra handles onto the main e-brake handle:
(http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=454525)
Or if you went hydraulic, they made ones that had a single-handle push/pull design that would sit above your existing e-brake handle:
(http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=453595)
But if there were a simple electronic solution such as this, that would sure make it easier to install and use.It would depend on what you needed. I just did some reading on the 'brake lock diff' that 987687 mentioned, and it looks like those can be some pretty sophisticated hands-off systems. But unless you have the ABS wheel speed sensors, I'm not sure that you could retrofit an automatic system like that without a lot of design work...
Using line-lock solenoids also might not be ideal, as you have no ability to feather or modulate the braking...
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Look up "brake lock diff"
'Cutting Brake' as well.
The cutting brakes were really popular with the old VWs, particularly the dune buggy crowd. They were just an extra set of handles, that would pull the e-brake cables one at a time. This let you lock up one wheel if necessary, to transfer the power to the other.
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Yeah, hopefully we don't sound too discouraging... but over the years, I've been through THREE brake failures in my vehicles, and it's a very scary thing to have happen.
One time, I was in an old VW with the single-circuit hydraulic brake system, and a rubber brake line failed and the pedal just went straight to the floor, right as I was coming up to an intersection. I grabbed the e-brake and gave it a hard yank, and the car didn't stop until we were clear through the intersection.
After that, we gave that car a full brake system rebuild *AND* gave the e-brake the adjustment it needed.Another time I was in a pickup, coming down a steep hill, and a metal line burst and I lost half of my brakes. I used the foot operated parking brake to help slow my descent, limped it onto a side street, and had it towed to the shop to have half of the brake lines replaced. Just a few months after this, I used the same truck to tow a moving trailer over the mountains - so I consider myself extremely lucky that the failure happened when it did.
A third time, I was out driving a project car that had sat for a 6 or so years. I was bringing it home from a storage garage, only about 5-10 minutes of driving. The main hydraulic brake system needed a bleeding, and they were not really working as well as I would have liked, so I was using the e-brake to help if I needed to stop quickly. Well, one of the times I pulled it, one of the two cables snapped.
Since the two cables had a balancer between them, when the one cable snapped it completely loosened the other and I had no e-brake. The joys of 40+ year old cars. I was very lucky that none of these situations ended in an accident, especially since I had passengers on the first. But these experiences have given me a great respect of brake system redundancy and the importance of keeping them maintained. Dual circuit hydraulic brakes and a well-adjusted mechanical brake are absolutely essential in my book.
Good luck with the new setup, and be sure to keep us posted on how it all goes!
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IMO, Do it right (mechanical), or not at all.
Agreed.
Why invest any time at all fabricating something temporary and inferior, when you could have just put that time toward doing it right with a mechanical brake in the first place?
Also worth considering - does anyone else drive your vehicle?
If so, having an emergency brake handle that does NOT provide braking force, and which operates in a very non-standard way, could be a liability. And by liability, I don't mean you getting sued... I mean it as one of your close friends or family getting hurt in an accident because the brakes didn't work, didn't hold, or locked up when they weren't expecting it.
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okay. I'll keep a close eye on it. If I see any uneven wear, I'll have her take it straight to an alignment shop. It's only FWD so it can't be too expensive.
Why risk it? If you drive it long enough that you can see the uneven wear, then you have ruined another set of tires...
If you have some sort of stockpile of cheap tires, this might be acceptable... but generally, an alignment costs a lot less than tires.
yeah, I'll do some pricing. This is an oddball front wheel drive so it should only need a two wheel alignment.What makes you think it only needs a two wheel alignment? A rear end that is out of whack can completely change how a car handles and drives, which can certainly lead to uneven front tire wear.
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and no - the thumb drive does not interfere with the shifter - it did kind of get in the way of the cupholders, but i solved that by moving the stereo down in the bracket & the little cubby up - still have a small gap between the two, but i can live with it.
How big is your thumb drive?
They make some really tiny ones now, perhaps a smaller USB stick would solve your problem?
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You can test the circuit from the ignition switch by using a jumper wire from the battery to the solenoid, where the little wire is on the starter. Just make sure it's not in gear first! Just touch the jumper to it and see if it turns over or just clicks. Do it over and over until your satisfied with the results. It's either going to act just like it does when you turn the key, or it will turn over every time. It if turns over every time, check the circuit from the ignition and the starter relay.
My '92 Legacy had very similar symptoms a year or so ago, and the above test was what I did.
In my case, the problem was the electrical portion of the ignition switch itself. The switch has a two-part construction, and the crimping holding the back portion to the metal shell had loosened up, and the switch contacts didn't make very good connections inside the switch. I could make the car start somewhat reliably just by pushing on the back of the switch.
I replaced the switch with a used one from the junkyard, and never had any other trouble with it.
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Whoa..... nuh uhhh. No way I'd go for that. No Title, No Cash, period. That sounds EXTREMELY SKETCHY to me. Why does he just have a Picture of the title?
Yeah... best of luck with that. :-\
Copies or duplicate titles provide countless opportunities for crooks... the car might not even belong to them, the car could have been wrecked and the photocopy is hiding that the real title is salvage, the title may have been handed over to a loan shop as part of a title loan, etc, etc.
Did you at least get a bill of sale, stating what you paid, the VIN, and with the seller's signature?
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Hi Red92- don't know that we've met.
Where are you at? Milw.? I'm about 20min. N of Tom (in the sticks) -KaraK
Nope, we haven't met. Based on the last few pages, it looks like Wisconsin is slowly taking over the USMB, eh?
I moved to Madison about mid-summer of last year.
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depends which yard you go to. I got a full set of forester struts for $60 at my auto yard. I've heard as mush as $50. a piece for a strut spring combo used.
The yard closest to me is $50/each if you pull them, and $75/each if you have the yard guys remove them from the car. :-\
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toms pickin up a GL10 from Duluth, the same one that waterford jon bought from NC, with the sweet rump roast front bumper. cept now the ej swap is done.
This one.
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BOUGHT!!!...... *i still have all my coin*
I'm sure he appreciates it that you didn't pay him $900 in coins.
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I am thinking about slamming my wagon to the ground, and if I put it on gl10 suspension, hypothetically I could have the bags be defleated, make my car slammed, then when I want to drive, just pump up the bags and it will give me 2" more of clearance... Any thoughts?
I was thinking the exact same thing just the day before your post, when I saw rob915's '86 GL turbo for sale with the suspension deflated. :cool:
Here's his sale thread:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=130319
and my post:
Not gonna lie... that thing looks pretty sweet dropped to the ground like that.
Pick up a set of Enkeis or some other sport wheels with wider lower profile tires, drop it just a touch more in the front, and that's a mean street wagon!
People generally hate their air suspensions, and get rid of them as soon as they can, so you should be able to get the parts really cheap to do it.
My '83 GL: The Ski Wagon
in Members Rides
Posted
I would do the same swap if I were you.