jkinz

Very interesting thread, lots of good info. I have a similar problem to yours with my 87 SPFI and some other threads I've seen but not nearly as severe. Ever since I had the engine out for a head gasket, the thing doesn't like very much throttle at low rpm, and full throttle it will "fall flat on its face" as they say. I can drive around it which I have done, but the car doesn't have that scoot like it used to. Unless I rev n' dump the clutch and then I just get lots of tire spin from my crappy 185R13s... I've certainly not delved as deep as you into it but I did change out the entire exhaust system which was completely smashed and re-welded a million times and no change. basic tuneup fuel filter plugs cap rotor, no change. The plugs looked great and didn't really need to be changed after I think 20k miles or so. when I get the chance I have some extra MAF and TPS to swap (or I'll try to clean it). I swapped a different PCV valve, haven't looked at any of the other stuff and no ECU codes. I swapped in a used radiator at some point, can't remember if it coincided with this problem or if I've tested the CTS, might start with that. I probably need to set aside a whole day and follow these steps but that's never gonna happen... Such a frustrating problem and I feel your pain, this is why I've avoided it for so long "hoping" the engine would blow up at some point and force me to go EJ... but this is a runner got the car for $500 no rust with like 150k on the odo now its at 180k doing great after all the abuse

I too was reading mineral oil imagining running that stuff you buy for lubricating food safe machines or as it says on the bottle as an "intestinal lubricant" if you drink it... figured it was a terminology mixup. certain transmissions definitely run motor oil but I've not tried it in a subaru. My Dodge Getrag 5 speed runs 10w30 motor oil, I had an acura that took 10w30 or ATF per the FSM (thought that was strange), and ford rangers use ATF in their manual gearbox.

Sorry I missed this topic, don't get much free time but to peruse the forum but I have a running spfi and a pile of parts. I can send you pics and possibly parts if you haven't got all you need yet

I followed the post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/?hl=head and had great results. piece of 1/4" glass (would have used thicker but it's all I could find), sandpaper and lots of wd40. I did need to buy a quality straight edge for the job, got one from mcmaster-carr for 20 or 30 bucks. I took it from .005" to a little above .002" and didn't do anything to the block. Someone mentioned that the heads might be "crowned" naturally and will flatten out when torqued down, don't know if that's true. In my case I had a minor combustion gas leak into the coolant system that was possibly not head or block warping related, just a gasket failure.

having never owned a vehicle with a good gearbox, I usually just run the recommended oil (typically 80w90) and learn when and how to shift so its happy... I've tried Lucas additive and found that it may improve operation when warm but it's really hard to get a good shift cold. I'd be curious if there's a US counterpart to N70 and if so, will it really improve my shift feel in the garbage vehicles I drive.

I too like the quad headlight look and have thought about it for my 87 wagon, but subaru parts are pretty rare where I live and the few DLs that I see are usually running and not going to give up their lights. I wonder how hard it would be to buy the bulbs and make a custom bucket, I've never seen a factory one but if I did I'm sure I could copy it to some extent given the chance.

Several people think the solex carburetor is likely junk and after removing it I can say with my very limited knowledge that is probably the case. Unfortunately I traded away all of my ea82 carbs and would be interested in a weber but haven't come up on anything cheap. I believe I have everything for a full SPFI setup but that seems like a bad idea from the get go. fuel injection on my 87 GL has always treated me great but in this application may not be worth the work. I'll read up on Loyale 2.7 Turbo's weber post and in the meantime looking for a used 32/36....

Digging through some old pics, found this

Thanks djellum I was going to use the old harness as a reference, which I still can for individual wires but it was a hacked up mess so I was going to dig in and start from scratch with what materials I have and a service manual. This is going to be very minimal on the creature comforts, just need a running engine and simple wiring. I really like the idea of painless kit since I've never used one before and they seem really nice. depends on the price I guess. It looks like a universal CSI harness might be what I'm looking for? P/n 30830 Or maybe a 50005 10 circuit harness with switch panel since I need those anyway?

cooling system is sorted out, next up is wiring. I ripped out the old stuff and I'll spare you the description but as I said it's the worst I've ever seen. I can figure it out myself but if any y'all have advice or tips would be much appreciated, thanks

Wow! that's a cool looking miata (jeers and bottles fly from the audience) If I find a tall skinny rad in a scrap yard or car that might look cool. for right now I'll fab up a simple bracket in front of the engine for any old radiator just to get it running but I think for rally race it will end up behind the back seat, just seems to make sense. then it can still be a "sleeper" haha.

I really need to start working on this during the day, it's so much easier to see... pretty simple, radiator with two electric fans, side ducting to shroud, hot air out the back. might even have room for a passenger.

Yup that's what I was thinking, I have access to plenty free salvage emt and the local muffler shop can do any bends I need for cheap. I have a tubing roller and a hydraulic jack style bender but I think emt might be too thin for them.

from a short lookup the carb is a Solex Brosol 2 barrel for a 1.6 litre chevrolet chevette. made in Brasil, motor is either isuzu or chevy. makes sense because this engine had a chevy alternator on a piece of square tube welded to a chevy seat belt bracket and bolted on... https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ve/MLV-460293542-carburador-chev-chevette-16-2-bocas-automatico-brosol-solex-_JM

I'm leaning toward rear or side rear radiator(s). I have a couple ea82 electric fans that will work and I'm sure I can scavenge up hoses and pipe. this things already got plenty of holes so a few more for air flow wont hurt. I guess if vanagons had the radiator in the front then a bugaru can have it in the back... I've heard of hoses popping frequently on water cooled vanagons but only in the case of having a rubber hose running the whole length of the vehicle which just sounds like a bad idea. as far as the pan crumpling it's getting an internal cage so that should help. thanks for all the ideas!