tweety

yes, sure have. Similar design from Ramflo. Have previously had many types of filters, usually the square shaped that has a paper element. But this design is far superior I think as the incoming air can come directly above the throats rather than from the sides. Use filter spray on it to trap the fine dust particles. I'd recommend the Ramflo ones. They come with the base plate and the tube for the PCV small hose. What I like about these is their quick release top. And easy access to other things like throttle control, disty etc. Likely more economical to. look for this sort of advertisement on ebay in your country. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161730613103?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Tony

haha, sorry jono, thought you misspelt it. (tail behind legs).

I would. Very close. That Holden colour is Holden Barina not Marina BTW. Just sayin'

This trike has taken all this time to get it to a trike of fun. I'm nearly 60yo now and I look back on my struggles with other troublesome cars like my 2 lotus powered Ford Escort, Datsun 2000 sports and numerous Ford Zephyrs and think to myself....time to enjoy this one. Hence I wont be going down the road to trying out a ea81 manifold, changing jets again, purchasing a redline adapter, mofifying radiator hoses etc all to just find out if the SPFI manifold is better performing. I think most here agree that any real performance benefit in terms of economy and acceleration would be miniscule. The transformation of this trike has been dramatic. I tried towing a mini caravan (trailer) at 600kgms, twice the legal weight here in Oz and needed more power hence the supercharger. Tried SPFI but couldn't justify the never ending costs to replace 30 yo sensors with what for me was a little more complex for my comfort zone. Now I'm happy. Happiness comes in many forms. For me to have a ea81 fully rebuilt in every way with the right cam (thanks Jono for that) even new oil pump and rebuilt dizzy everything is tight and new, no oil leaks (yet), oil usage or irregular idle etc Is happiness. Tweety the trike isn't finished yet. A new larger custom built windscreen from polycarbonate is on the list. Custom fairing around the front radiator as well. Tires are a problem. I really want larger tires to allow me lower revs at 60-70mph. but I need whitewalls. In Oz no tire can be used without Australian standards markings. Very over regulated here yet we can expose boobs whereas in USA Janet Jackson stopped the country with her - "accident" lol. When I started the transition from VW 1916cc to ea81 I was questioned heavily by some that queried the swap (fair enough). EJ was their cry. But with unusual vehicles come unusual answers to a problem. With Tweety it was a case of a weight issue. The frame is unique in Oz with a full alloy monocogue chassis not steel tube. An EJ like all other engines out there weighing more than the VW engine (light weight air cooled) would weigh more. Add to that the roof weighing at 45 kgms and you have an issue. The ea was the answer as it was very compact (more room for exhaust of my design), weighed less than VW and a little more with the radiator and coolant and most importantly for a regional resident- easy to maintain and work on myself. Gee maintenance- it has a module in the dizzy, all I need to do annually is valve clearances, spark plug change, lead inspections and oil/filter fuel filter change biannually. No computers. This engine will largely go untouched for the rest of my days- unless, twin port heads become readily available and reasonably priced...then I'll save my pennies. I've learned so much and my knowledge now will assist others new to the ea engine as I'm not going anywhere. The membership here is quite unique.

Thanks Jono, The only comparison between stock manifolds and large manifolds is the V8 world, where aftermarket manifolds are plentiful and wouldn't be for sale for 4 or more decades without some improvement in performance. It was there that I learned that bigger in manifold size often means better efficiency. ???? I'd love some facts on this.

I see your point Lucas but there is one factor that sways me the other way- that there is a SPFI system on ea82's that has this manifold and with the same restrictive heads. If it was too big for the engine then Subaru would have stuck with the ea81 manifold. That's my line of logic anyway. Don't you think? 4 years ago when I first got this ea81 engine I stuck a weber on it (was sold without a carbie) so I'm aware of what an ea81 is like with a 32/36). Yes, this engine now has higher CR and a torque cam but whatever the reason this engine is now sorted and it really takes off. Was fitting the SPFI manifold worth the effort? likely not. The 6 mounting holes need to be reamed out as the heads are closer together, the crankcase needs to be ground down 2mm so the SPFI manifold has clearance and the angled mount I had made up for the weber was custom made and cost $$$. Better for the average owner to stick with the ea81 manifold. But if you have a SPFI manifold I'd go with it. I'd love to get a automotive engineer to PROVE the advantage though. Thanks for your comment.

Final day for tuning. Thought I'd check the dizzy first. Found that the vacuum advance was seized at the diaphragm. Had a spare and it worked fine. So I haven't had vacuum advance at all for quite some time. In fact it was really apparent when I put a timing light on the crank pulley (my engine doesn't have a flywheel with timing marks as it has an adapter plate) and when I took off the vac tube form the carb the timing moved about 3 degrees. So left it off and timed it to my regular 13 degrees and on with the tube. Definitely noticeable difference when revving. I decide to go back to redline jets and start again. Being Primary main 140 air 170 idle 50 Sec main 140 air 160 idle 55 Then the test as above where by you alter your mixture screw until it is set. I used my colortune for this operation. Then raised the idle to 2000rpm. Then screwed the mixture screw out and revs rose a lot. So according to the method you raise the idle screw one size in this case 55 then repeat the procedure. Nope, still no good so installed a 60 size idle jet. Perfect....almost. There was the slightest rise in revs but so little I'm happy with that. Mixture screw is 1.5 turns out from home Revved the engine 3000-4000 rpm. Not really happy with that. Seems it was light on fuel flow to me. Primary main is 140. Replaced this with a 145. Air is 170 replaced this with the 180. Took it for a run. Wow, am happy with that. Bearing in mind I have vac advance now also. Secondary. With the 140 main I wasn't happy with the WOT. Bit light on with power at the top end noticeable up a long hill. Replaced it with a 150..air went from 165 to 180 and left the idle at 55. Was happy with that. The final thing I wanted to do was adjust the timing until it pinged then back it off 2 degrees. Well I advanced it more and more and each time went uphill to listen for pinging that never came. Then it began to run a bit course. Back to the setting at 13 degrees. It starts easy there, runs hard and I'm happy. So jetting wasn't far off what I had yesterday. I rode home about 12 miles and then took out one platinum spark plug. The white ceramic piece was white and brown. Final jet settings are- mains 145/150, airs 180/180, idles 60/55 The colortune helped a lot as it took away the guesswork of the mixture. The more precise the mixture the more accurate that test is when you up the idle then open the mixture screw. I'm happy with that test. On a private road the trike exceeded 140kph 85mph with more there . Am real happy. With the 38/38 even after dyno tuned there is no way it would get near that speed, nor the roar of the carb at WOT and the kick in the back the 32/36 gives. Lessen learned. 38/38 carbs might be good for highly modified stock engines. As the ea81 and e82 cant be developed that much there seems no positive purpose for the 38/38 carb on these engines. Thankyou to all.

Yeh, thought that also. My main focus tomorrow is the primary side. And I'll get that right and go for a 15 mile ride on primary only and check the bosch plugs color. Should be some indication. Looks like I'm soon to become an artist lol

Well I'm not totally convinced I'm on the right track. I've read up a lot on weber carbs from a book my mate leant me called WEBER CARBEURETTORS BY Pat Braden published by HP books. It goes through all the basics of how these carb work. Of course it doesn't tell me how it would work with a larger than stock manifold and my SPFI manifold is indeed twice as large as the original ea81 manifold. So what are the benefits of a larger manifold compared to an OEM? I spent the day surfing the www mainly V8 aftermarket manifolds as that's where development has been the most focussed with improvements. (Paraphrasing) See, a larger manifold means it can take more volume doesn't (as I thought) mean more air so that means more fuel i.e. bigger jets. A larger manifold means the engine can run with better efficiency. From my reading I've realised that one should use the recommended jets and move up one or maybe two sizes at the most to achieve the best performance. Any further in jet sizes and you run the risk of using more fuel for no gain. Furthermore, my trike at 660 kgms, auto trans, 9.5:1 CR, torque cam etc is like most vehicles- unique. I shouldn't take other vehicles as a base line. Read this from GD "I think with the Delta cam you need to go lower on your idle jet. You have the torque cam I take it? You are getting a lot more draw from the cylinders at idle than before, and you're sucking huge quantities of fuel because of the massive vacuum at idle. The engine breathes better now, and all it's getting is a ton of gas from the big idle jet." GD http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/9440-who-has-weber-bible-need-to-know-the-actual-jetting-im-supposed-to-running/ using the Gudson colortune will be a bonus. But this device wont tell me to go higher or lower on jetting, just the right mixture. Redline kits jet their engines at Primary- idle 50 main 140 air 170 Secondary idle 55 main 140 air 160 One bit of instruction was - from Article "Retrofitting the weber DGAV 32/36 to Subaru manifold" It says- Tuning of the weber can be done with a flat blade screwdriver and your foot. To tune the primary circuit set you A/F mix and then set your speed screw so that its running at about 2000 rpm. Slowly turn the mixture screw out, if the engine runs faster the mixture is weak and you should go up a size in the idle jet. Slowly turn the mixture screw in. If it runs faster the mix is rich. Go down a size in idle jet. If you change a jet, you need to redo the A/F mix setting BEFORE repeating the procedure. Once the idle circuit is set, take your Sube out on the road. Idle along the road with clutch fully engaged. Tromp the pedal and see if it will accept WOT at idle. This gives you an idea on the main jet size. If it stalls then there is a lean condition, if it makes a deep tone it is rich. This is a rough guide...."

Very interesting reading. Think I'll read it twice lol Here is my trike exhaust with that common pipe.

Another good question Jono, We have all done the "bolt the bigger carb on" thing, as I did with my 38/38 and defied advice from those that have done it....to see if it can be done. But really, modifying a stock engine id more a science isn't it? That's just my view. I mean in basic terms allowing an engine to breathe better eg larger exhaust and larger manifold. But even these mods can have traps. Make an exhaust too large with little back pressure and it causes issues. How much back pressure is ideal? How do you measure that pressure? From where the exhaust exits the head or 3 metres away? Manifolds- does bigger mean better? Often it does but does it on a ea81/2 when is really more of a unique design? At 6mm bigger diameter my SPFI is likely double the volume of the stock ea81...does that have negatives? or real proven positives? Who knows? No one has posted not to use that manifold....so again, pioneering stuff and I love it as long as it works lol. To date for example a 65 on the idle primary jet was installed and a 70 is likely ideal. The 65 allows for the mixture screw to be 1.75 turns out....what is the goal. But I haven't seen a weber 32/36 use a 65 jet yet nor 70....mainly 50-60 max. So is that due to the manifold size? The short trike exhaust? The 9.5:1 compression ratio? Will the larger manifold contribute to better ecomony or worse? So with the above, will bigger valves be wonderful or other things should be taken into consideration? Its a science

mmm, I don't know if I'm doing the right thing. See the 65 idle jet made the mixture screw out 1.75 turns. About perfect. Then went down to 60 as I'm trying to get the best economy possible. But what if I went to 70? To go the other way it would mean the mixture screw would wind out say 1.5 turns. Would this give better economy even though its a larger jet? Economy runs aren't desired as its near snowing here. I reckon one of those atmospheric gauges would be handy right now

Absolutely. With the 32/36 on WOT it howls with a definite kick in the back. But also with the primary throat only used it is more than adequate power for normal driving. These are the reasons I'm delighted. And the power is progressive throughout the throttle range. Idle is great. I would never recommend the 38/38 for a ea81/ea82. Highly modified engines maybe, with high performance cam and twin port heads etc. I've gone back from 65 on the idle jet to 60. Secondary idle jet 60 to 55. I'm just seeking economy now knowing I have good power and smooth operation. The move to secondary idle leaves me with a mixture screw a little over 2 turns out rather than 1.75 turns with the 65. If there are not good gains in economy I'll return to the 65 idle. Secondary mains from 145 to 155. Being for better top end power/overtaking ability. The little time I use WOT and its ok for the second throat to be rich, I figure its worth that move. Happy 32/36 owner now. My other concept is to make a larger windscreen allowing for air to pass by the rear side roof area. This is causing a parachute effect. Be like owning a Brat with a vertical windscreen. More tinkering. Love it.

some fine tuning today.(sic) Se my last post. Jets on the far right are the new ones. Went on a short trip and only used the primary throat and got 25mpg (Aust) an improvement over the 38/38 of 19-23mpg (Aust). But am wanting bit better economy than that. The trip involved cruising at 70mph (110 kph. Of course other factors involved with this is gearing...no overdrive. 3100rpm @ 60mph. Minor parachute effect of the trike roof. But I'll plug away. Certainly achieved a lot to date. I'ts revving great and power is way up on the 38/38.

being individual with concepts sounds good but there are drawbacks. I used to build and fly my own radio model airplanes. I was not content to build standard designs so designed my own. After about 40 crashes not long after take off a friend asked me "why are you trying to reinvent the wheel"? Good point. As aerodynamics is an art and I was trying to prove it isn't. Same with the 38/38 carb on my ea81. Others wrote up in these pages how it wasn't suitable. But I'd read in Datsun 1200 and Holden Gemini pages that they used them. I was worried the 32/36 wouldn't be good low down for my automatic transmission. How wrong I was. So the big drawback is cost and time. So the ideal situation here is to take all ideas and proven concepts and come up with the best solution, not the solution that is "different" only. The PCV system has proven itself in likely thousands or tens of thousands of conversions. Anyway, no one is going to applaude someone for coming up with a better PCV system IMO. But they will applaude you if you found a better intake system or easy way to find an extra 20hp at the wheels. Cheers Tony

Thanks Jeszek, I thought so. I'll try some larger jets. Colortune is a handy tool for your toolbox. This is a comparison Stock from Redline for the Subaru is on the left, mine on the right: 3 days later far right Primary Main: 140 .....................140 ...140 Secondary Main: 140 ................... 145 ...155 Primary Air: 170 ..................... 180 ....170 Secondary Air: 160 ....................180 ....180 Primary Idle: 50 .......................65 ....60 Secondary Idle: 55 .................... 60 ....55

Just a few comments. If you try tofit the SPFI manifold you'll need to file down the block halves immediately under the manifold by about 2mm. The manifold will rock otherwise. Be careful only to file just enough so the manifold can bolt down.Once filed own ther e isn't a lot of met left on the block. If you get the heads shaved or the block faces shaved then you'll find the holes at each end of the SPFI manifold wont line up. You'll need to ream all 6 holes. see pic. Finally read my post "ea81 weber 38/38 to 32/36" - you'll get a lot out o that thread. Chees Tony

Today I got in the mail a box of jets from the USA and a colortune unit. Jets in my 32/36 carb were Primary- main 130,idle50,air 165 Secondary-main 140,idle 60, air 160 I attached the colortune to the number 1 spark plug hole and found, after warming the engine, that it was colored light blue at idle. Meaning the mixture screw needed turning out anti clockwise until a Bunsen Burner blue color was achieved. Having done that I turned the engine off and counted the turns the mixture screw was out....3.5 turns..wow!! So this now required for the primary idle jet to be changed to a larger jet to achieve 1.5-2 turns on the mixture screw. I ended up with 65 as my primary idle jet and 1.7 turns out with that mixture screw. This gave me the mid blue color on the colortune device. At this stage the device has paid for itself IMO. Took the trike for a run,much more power and smooth as... Reading the colortune guide it is not unusual to see yellow color from the device when under acceleration particularly fast revving due to the accelerator jet squirting fuel. So rich under those circumstances is ok. What I did, when the engine was idling was place a screwdriver on the secondary jet lever to see what color the device would be when that was revved without the primary throat opening more than idle. It went very yellow. = lean. I needed more air. Next step I made the following changes- primary main from 130 to 140, primary air from 165 to 180, secondary main from 140 to 145, secondary air from 165 to 180. So at the end of the task I ended up with- Primary- Main jet 140, idle 65, air 180. This gave a rich blue color with the colortune from idle right up to 3000 rpm. Very happy with these jet sizes. Secondary- main jet 145, idle 60, air 180. This gave good revving result with rich blue on the device when revved over 3500 rpm after the yellow color went away afer accelerator jet finished operating. Test ride. Wow, never had this performance with the 38/38. No hesitation, not surging etc. Really nice. Then WOT, very good, the engine howls. I'm of the opinion however that the secondary mains could be raised to 155 or 160- even 165 from 140. Would I need a larger air jet as well to do this? It just lacks a little at top end. Not much though. I'm going to leave it now for a few runs to see how it impacts overall. I'm also of the view that the SPFI manifold might well be allowing a performance advantage now. That's how it feels.

Received the colortune today and a box of jets. Please see my post on this on the "38/38 to 32/36" thread

Thanks Turbosuperbrat, Australian design rules have limited trikes here up until 2011. Then they opened them up with little restriction of weights etc. Because of that German trikes and V8's to a lesser degree have been entering the market more. Hence in Oz, most trikes are the VW style. But that is slowly changing.

Really informative guys.

It's been a while since I added a supercharger to my ea81 then took it off and sold it. I believe while running it the engine suffered some internal damage to a ring but I only found that out some time later. The benefits of a supercharger over other boost systems is immediate engine response from idle upwards. It is relatively cheap to do but needs to be installed with attention to detail. The supercharger selected was a SC12. This is a Toyota unit off an MR2 around 1990 vintage. And vintage is correct, too old in many ways. Bulky it has 1200cc and the SC14 is larger at 1400cc, the latter being 2" longer otherwise identical. There are other SC's on the market like the Australian built Sprintex that have less drag and are much more efficient. These are found on Harley's, Honda Jazz and Mini's. If I was to go that way again that's the Sc I'd buy. The build commenced with a Dellorto sidedraft carb. The tricky bits were to fabricate the manifold each side of the SC. The inlet manifold was easy, I bought a aftermarket twin carb LYNX manifold off a Datsun 1600 and cut it in two. The manifold between the SC and the standard ea81 intake was more complex as it was smaller and had to be made from scratch. It also has a blow off valve on it. This is to safeguard the whole unit if there was a backfire (and there were). Once the SC has been mounted on this manifold then the SC mounts need to be made up. Basically it one long bolt that the SC swivels on if it was unbolted to the custom manifold. Then you need to seek out the belt drive pulleys. A supercharger's boost is dependant on its gearing. A 5 tooth pully around 140mm diameter will give you say 4psi boost. Not much eh....its deceiving. This much boost easily achieved 100hp at the fly (more on that later. But 7psi is the max if you want lots of reliability. More boost and you get a larger pulley on the crank. So this pulley needs to be on the crank and you'll need it to be secured well. I use 3 bolts but welding is the way to go. Then the idle adjusting pulley needs to be mounted and all lined up. The pulley on the Sc was fixed. I took off the clutch. The reason for this is that a clutch system can only be used in a blow through system i.e. air, Sc, carbie, engine. but in the suck through system its air,carb,SC, engine. The blow through set up is the factory method and the carb would need to be pressure proof. This might involve different floats that don't collapse under pressure and the carb sealed. The suck through system is harder to tune. My suck through system had 3 dyno tunes. Each time an air leak came about between the manifolds and their paper gasket seals. Eventually in frustration I used nitrile rubber home made gaskets and got a 100hp at the flywheel (82hp ATW)reading just before that leaked also. It was obvious my surfaces were warped. The distributer was recalibrated for the SC. Timing was around 10 degrees. As you can see the before and after dyno readings were impressive. About 33% more power and 30% more torque. Now the problem... The biggest issue was economy. About half the economy of the non SC engine. That was in the end my main reason for taking it off. In one last desperate measure I tried water injection. Nozzles the right size were hard to find. After much testing I found water injection simply made things more complicated with zero benefit. So the verdict. If I was to go down that path again I'd go blow through, make sure all surfaces were milled flat, install a seriously modern SC screw type which is also much more compact and lighter. It would also fit under the hood. Compression doesn't need to be changed unlike a turbo. There is no kick in like a turbo, just sheer power off the line. My trike would lift its front wheel easily at 25mph when the auto changed from 1st to 2nd and at 90kph was tempted to do the same into 3rd. It was enjoyable. Bare in mind there was 35kgms of SC and fittings over the engine which helped with the balance to do this.

What I've done is put the passenger (US) side valve cover hose to a miniature filter sprayed with K&N filter goo. That's that side done although you can place the hose to the air filter. Drivers side. I've run the hose directly to a catch can. Then from the catch can another hose. This hose goes to the "F" plastic fitting where there are two outlets, one 5/8" and one about 3/16". The 5/8" one goes to the PCV. The small one goes to the air filter. My understanding is, that when there is a spike of crankcase pressure when the PCV cannot handle it, the small hose will take that extra pressure to the intake.

Too late. has been purchased and waiting on delivery Jono. One has a choice of size now. I have ordered the 14mm size. same as ea81.

I have written to Gunson in the UK to explain that my reason for purchasing their colortune unit is to assist me in tuning the jets in my weber 32/36 which, has a rare SPFI manifold (rare for a weber conversion) This is the very helpful and full explanation they sent to me today and I'm impressed with their comprehensive answer. My questions to them centered on whether I could utilize the colortune to help with jetting including the secondary main/idle/air jets as well as the primary jets. Dear - The colortune plug allows us to see the combustion flame as it fires. The appearance and color of the flame is an extremely useful indication of fuel mixture. A colortune is therefore a useful tool when making carburettor adjustments on most engines. For your Subaru, a colortune will be helpful. It wont adjust the secondary throat as such because the primary and secondary throats because the primary and secondary throats have to work together as the engine speeds changes. But the colortune will show the change in mixture for the whole carb through the rev rangeso you should be able to see the effect (leaner or richer) that the second throat has as it comes into play over the primary throat. Adjustments to the secondary throat will have some effect on the function on the primary throat. A weber technical manual (or the Haynes weber technical manual) will explain this, and of course a colortune plug will show that actual overall coverage. I hope this is helpful to you. end response So guys, I will be purchasing one of these colortune units shortly and will endeavour to rejet the carb...primary jets first. The plan is to go up 5 or 10 on the 50 on the idle as the turns out of the mixture screw is over 2 turns. Also go from 130 primary mains to 135 then if needed 140. (SPFI manifold remember). If those add up to a good blue mixture on the colortune then I'll continue on to the secondary. Currently got a 140 secondary but 150 or 155 is my guess...around right. So bit of fiddling will pay off and might be able to do without a dyno tune. Tony