richierich

Get the Forester 2.5XT It is a 2.5 and it is Turbo-Charged. The turbo vehicles come from the Factory that way. It would take a aftermarket company to come up with the computer system to change an non-turbo to a turbo. There is no way a dealer would do it for you. And yes, then the warrantee would be void.

Sounds great to me. I will be emailing you about the shirts anyways.

I would like a set. Mine are kind of hard. Would like to keep them inside.

Usually when there is coolant, coming out of the exhaust at the engine, it is usually a cracked head. Also if there is excessive white smoke coming out the exhaust it also might be a sign of a cracked head. They usually crack right at the exhaust ports, and are not too difficult to diagnosis. You can take the 14mm exhaust bolts loose at the heads, put small pieces of carboard between the head and the exhaust, pressure check it, and it antifreeze is on the pieces of cardboard then you have a cracked head. I agree that a small amount of water when cold is normal. But if the water smell sweet, might be a sign of a bigger problem. Like Qman asked, Are you loosing coolant in the radiator? If you plan on doing the job yourself, I can help you get parts including a good head, and advise if you need it.

I guess when I go to sell mine, I won't even waste my time with this board. $1300 is probably the top value with the mileage. Would have to have few oil leaks, and good axles, nice body and decent interior. They only come up for sale about 5-6 times a year in the Portland Area.

I have owned over 7 XT's in the past 8 years. So I feel qualified to speak on the subject. I will give you two opinons one as a person who has worked on the 85-86 Turbo Motor and two has a XT affectionado. I would be very leary of buying a early style Turbo vehicle without being able to check it out of having ti checked out. The early style heads are prone to crack even at low mileage. In addition, the XT does not have a good resell value. Most kids do not want to drive it and it is not big enough to fit stuff in. You can pick up XT for under $1000 any day of the week. Also the automatic tranny is kind of a downer. That being said, I think it is really cool. And if it was located on this side of the US I would definitely be bidding against you. All in all, I do not think I would not go above $1400 on it, unless you have someone that can go take a look at if for you. The vehicle without any problems is probably worth as much as $1900 if you found the right buyer. Unfortuately it is a 17 year old vehicle and it bound to need some maintence and repairs. Good Luck.

Subaru changed the from the ea81 motor because of emissions. They were unable to get a the HP they needed with all the smog devices that they had on them. The only reason they could keep the BRAT and hatch back is that it was such a small part of sales. They ran the ea81 motor in other countries into the late 90's. But they did not have smog restrictions. I would see there would be a problem with a 300hp pushrod motor, I would think that it would bend the push rods pretty easy. Timing chains have their problems as well. Nissan was plagued with timing chain problems (tensioners, pulleys, noises) in the 90's. The new Legacy timing belts are rated out to 105k. And by that time they usually have a front oil leak anyways. The GL/Loyale problems is that there is two of them, and that means twice as many problems.

I got another EA81T Tranny if you want to roll the dice. The motor was bad so the tranny should be good? Richie richslaw@hotmail.com

I would also get the front crank seal replaced. Very unlikely it will last out to 210k miles. Should be relatively inexpensive. Richierich SIR, Inc

I got a hatchback for free, but I had to tow it home. You the man!!

Have you had the voltage system checked under load (ie with the lite, etc) with a independent voltage tester? No just the lite on the dash? The dash system is not always know to be accurate. There also could be a loose connection somewhere. Like everyone else, check the battery.

She went in and told DOL, that she wanted to get a in Lieu of Title and then I would take it to Oregon DMV and get a title. They told her that would not work. So she went and applied for a new title in her name. So I guess it is a mute point. I remember with the RX, I tried to take the in Lieu of Title into Oregon DMV, and they said it was not a reconcized Title and I would have to get a Washington title, and then transfer it. So that is what I did. When I sell the vehicle, I will give them the title, and a Emission slip from Oregon or Washington, depending on where they live. ONE MORE QUESTION. Can you get a trip permit in Washington on a vehicle that you don't own???

I changed my post to make more sense. I had purchased a DIFFERENT CAR and had the title directly transferred to me. They can not do this in this case since I am not in Seattle to sign for this. Thanks Ed, for ALL your help.

I know this is an off topic but I am trying to remember how I go about getting a lost title out of Washington. The story goes like this: I contacted the lady with the 90 Legacy LS with the bad front crank pulley. I went up and bought it. When she went to get the title. She could not find it. She has been looking without success for the title. Tags expired 12/03, so the car is worthless until I get the title. Ok. I know she can get a new title, takes up to 8 weeks. I bought a different vehicle in Washingtion a few weeks ago and I hadt to I go in with the seller, and gotten the title directly transfered over to me at the local Washington motor vehicle station. When I got my RX from Corky, I received a piece of paper (proof of ownership) and a bill of sale. And then took this paper work and got a Washington title. That is the way I got my title for my RX. What is that piece of paper called and where can the seller get it. Does Washington carry a Bill of Sale? Any other ideas?

I offered a OEM quality clutch assembly by Atugi, for $99 bucks and no one took me up on it. Anyone still interested? My email is richslaw@hotmail.com Like someone else said before, the lifetime warrantee is again defects, not stupidity or normal wear.

I am betting it is the long pump. 85-86 Turbos used the short pump, after that most used the long pump. Most if not all XT use the short pump. All in all, not very many use the short pump. But if you ever are in doubt, I would say buy both and take one back.

Sounds like a little much for a car with Rust in the rear quarters and a 1600 engine. I would think that would be a $300 dollar vehicle. Mechanical stuff can be fixed but body work is expensive and time consuming. Just because stuff is cheap, doesn't mean it is always worth buying. Some of the people on this board forget that, and end up putting hundreds into a car that isn't worth taking to the junkyard.

Here are pictures of mine. 83 Convertible There was also a nice black one in North Carolina, but none of us ever kept any pictures of it They were not all GL10. They were whatever the dealership sent down there. There use to be a gold GL Auto in town but I haven't seen it lately.

We are called Superior Import Repair. Located at 5120 NE 42nd Portland OR 97218 (not too far from Vancouver) 503-288-8634

In addition, there is also the quality of the rotor to take into account. The hole for the Subaru rotor fits just find. While the aftermarket ones sometime do not line up as well.

Those are awesome!!!!! I am so jealous. I would love to have a Sanbar truck. It is sad that you had to cut that one in half, but is probably was rusty. I know what you mean about needing more power. We use to tow everything with my dad's Brat. it was really hard to tow EA82 cuz they were a lot more heavy than the Brat so it would push me around. Then we got a 79 Chevy 1500, that was ok, but still not that great for long trips. Now we have a 93 Ford F250 w/ a 460. Now we actually enjoy taking it out and taking trips up to Seattle to get vehicles.

Subaru says that oil consumption of a quart every 500 miles is not excessive. On EA82, I usually tell people that if it uses a quarter every 1000 miles, it is not abnormal. Replacing the PCV would be a good start. Has it had the updated intake repair? The SPI engine was spewing oil out the exhaust on corner because of a hose that went directly into the FI assembly. I don't have pictures of the repair but maybe someone else online does. The repair kit is like $18 from Subaru. A good tune-up would also help. In addition, do you change your oil every 3000 miles. After 3000 miles oil will start breaking down, cause it to burn and needed to be added to. On my turbo I use a quarter every 3000, but it is a Japanese engine. But when I take it skiing, I see that I am always just a little down on the stick. Driving a car hard, like up to the mountain seems to effect mine. Good Luck.

Man, if that was on the West Coast, it would be sitting in my dad's driveway by now.

Just to let you know I have a Atsugi/Paraut clutch assembly in the marketplace for sale. It should be the OEM assembly for your vehicle.

I made my girlfriend get a Subaru before I proposed to her. Actually her Tercel was dying and we looked at many cars, but the Subaru was well maintained, and she like that it has AWD so she could go see her parents who just moved to Idaho. Didn't hurt that my dad helped finance it for 6 months. If this is a car that she will be driving 40% or more of the time, then you should get a new Legacy, and if she doesn't like that then get a new Import (read Japanese) vehicle. But if it is a car for you, Then you need to have the final say. You will be the one driving it, you will be the one who will have to work on it. My wife may roll her eyes when I buy a car that I say I am going to keep, but if she won't be seen in it, then we take her car. My wife also understands that I have an illness like Mick. But she knew that when we were dating. Someone mentioned that you should let her drive your new Subaru and she will see how cool it is. WRONG. I am sorry but a ea81 or ea82 Subaru does not drive that great. I mean I love them and all, but the reason that I put up with them is because they are 4WD. I think here worry is that you will buy a $200 POS, and be always working on it, and eating up the money that you both have. And that is a valid point. You buy anything will rust on it and you are just throwing money into something that is going to be worthless in a couple of years. If she doesn't want you to buy from a board member, that fine. Buy it from a private party, and buy something that looks and runs nice, even if it is older. And if this is important to you, then you should talk about it before you get married.