richierich

If you look the crumple zone, is not crumpled. It just needs a front core support and you should be on your way. If it is rust free and in NY, you would be a fool not to buy it. Jerrys salvage title BRAT sold on ebay for over 2500, with still some dents in the quarter panel. No it will never be a 5000 dollar Brat, but show pictures of the damage, and the repair and get it painted it should be a solid 2000-2500 BRAT.

As far as USMB shirts go, I will start a topic on it with the other moderators. Mick is the king of the T-shirts but I will offer my help to him. Summer is usually a busy time for most people so I would not expect anything right away.......

Well since the shirts have been brought up. I will monopolize on the oportunity to tell everyone about them. Here are the pics. They are really awesome in person. Zapar went out of his way to get us the best quality, at a reasonable price. All proceeds of course go to future Subaru shows, so it is a great way to show your appreciation for everyone hard work. I personally apology for not getting any pre-sold. Personal issues and problems with paypal, but I will be at the show early and try to be set up so people can get them on Friday to wear for Saturday. PS. If you are a plus size or want smaller size shirts might want to come see me earlier rather than later. Also have a few long sleeve shirts from last years show so if you are interested and weren't able to get a WCSS7 shirt come see me, might be able to hook you up. As Zapar said in a previous post, might want to bring some cash to buy small things at the show as well as money needed for dinner and registration.

MAF, bad gas, plugged fuel filter, I would also consider valve sticking in the heads, this would be cause by infrequent oil changes and not a lot of highway driving and vehicle sitting quite a bit. MotorVac, or throttle body cleaning might help your situation.

Very neat, can't wait to see it a WCSS8. One word for you, Restroleum, ok maybe two, CAMO

Horn Relay. $8 from the dealership. It is under the driver side dash close to the firewall. The relay is red in color so it should be easy to find if you have the new one in your hand. You of course jump electricity to the horns and made sure they weren't bad first?

Ditto. Thermostat & Radiator cap. Have seen a rash of bad radiator caps lately. But I would do the thermostat to be on the safe side, also will get rid of an air pocket if there is one. I take off the upper radiator hose at the radiator and fill the engine up that way, so I am 100% sure of no air pocket. Then I reconnect it and fill the radiator.

I have two thoughts on the subject. 1) Would be nice to sell all the shirts and maximize profits for the show early. Any profits from shipping would go towards the show, so if someone wants it shipped then they can have it shipped 1a) sell them off early and would have more time at the show or to help in other areas. 2) Would really like to sell them to people who actually attend the show, and that selling off a large majority to people on the USMB would not be fair to the other groups and people who attend. But I can say that if you are a small, medium or 2X you would benefit from ordering early. On another note, have gotten pay-pal straightened out, still waiting to get it linked to my checking BUT the money should go in the "escrow account". Now need to set up a page like Tex and Noah.

Sorry have been kind of a lurcker lately. As already stated the shirts are already made and our in my possession. So no worries about getting enough money to get them made, etc. As soon as I get my pay-pal working will post a thread to buy them. Not sure if I am going to mail them out or not.

Two sources of oil consumption are valve guide seals in the heads, and oil rings on the pistons. A quart of oil every 3000 miles is very good for a 8+ year old vehicle with over 100000 miles. Have a few customers that use a quart every 1000 miles, and though it is not optimal, it is nothing to tear an engine apart over. Whenever the oil is dirty, it burns. check your oil every 1000 miles (at least) and see when it is dirty (discolored), and that point it might be good to change it, old oil not only burns faster it also sticks to the wall and the valves. You may want to add some mystery marvel oil or seafoam to the vehicle, or have a throttle body cleaning, also check the PCV valve as that will cause oil consumsion and lead to a baffle plate leak if it completely goes bad.

AGX are a replace strut, they will not come with the spring or top. I just through out Legacy because that is how we did our first one, and it did not look too bad. I will ask subiestyles when he comes by today, what would the best Imp be, 2WD or 4WD. There are quite a few of them at the UPullit in Damacus. If we want to go with XT 2WD rears, I have a parts car here, would like to know more about turning over the strut mount from Rob, does that level the car out, or lower the back since the front of yours is already low? (basically what is the distance between the tire and wheel.

Also could be the rear baffle plate, either way the transmission probably will have to come out to work on it. Should be getting oil onto the Y-pipe and smelling when you drive it, if it is bad enough to drip onto the floor.

Extra hour tops for replacing the seperator plate while doing the headgaskets.

As owner of a Subaru Repair shop, I am telling you do not reuse the headgaskets. The bolts should be torqued down to specs but not tighter or you will break more bolts because they are stretch bolts. In addition I have NEVER known any Subaru mechanic to recommend re-torquing on this engine, as it would be a major job. Do it right the first time. period. GD has no experience with these motor and thus should not be posting replies when he knows nothing about the vehicle. He believes he has knowledge beyond his year, and it has gotten him in trouble on this board in the past.

I also agree with ShawnW on this. Best way to tell if it is getting hydrocarbons (not always oil residue in the bottle but sometimes) in the antifreeze is to have it tested. (can be done chemically or with a DEQ type sniffer) After driving it while it is hot, you should see little bubbles in the overflow bottle, this is signs of bad headgasket. I would also recommend replacing the radiator when you do the headgaskets as the are very thin in most models and are over 7 years old and now are contamenated with hydrocarbons and in some cases oil. Here are some other post about similiar problems, all you questions should be able to be answered there. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54250&highlight=headgasket http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51975&highlight=headgasket http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53304&highlight=headgasket http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50010&highlight=headgasket http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53331&highlight=headgasket

Well if the remotes won't work but 2 inches away, then I usually say you need new batteries. But the next step I always try is remotes. I know this doesn't sound helpful but unless there is a major problem with the system new remotes fix the problem. When remotes have not fixed the problem I have either installed new brains or dis activated the system for the customer. The fact that you are telling us the system response to being re-set tell me that the brain is probably good. Good Luck. Richie

My cost is above $80, but they are EMPI axles (EMPI is the company that makes boots for lots of car manufacturers) they might even be OEM on VW and stuff but not sure. Though I have just started using them I am pretty confident in there quality, but time will tell. Might have to call up my supplier though and find out what kind of quantity discount I can get so I can get my price on them down, also see if Napa is $100 or $80.

I had been using ARI axles for years with very few come backs. But started to get vehicle in that other places had installed ARI axles and they were making noise. Finally was told that ARI had expanded and had other places making axles for them, and the quality was going to hell. Then started getting axle that would start leaking at the small clamp within 5k miles cuz they put them on too tight. Now I am using BRAND NEW Empi axles, been selling them to customers for $110, how does that compare to Napa? I figure it is a fair price since they list for $359 Nicest thing is no core charge.

I would also check the charging system and make sure the alternator is putting out enough volt/amperage, they would cause about the same symptoms.

Willing to give a $25 dollar gift certificate to someone who finds me a shop.

Willing to give a $25 gift certicate to someone who gives me a good lead. REALLY would like to help this customer out. Richie

Customer has a car that is supposely leaking oil from the headgaskets, (98 Subaru Forester) car was just in before the trip and no oil leaks. She is in the Palm Springs/ Palm Desert area, and would like to know where there is a good independent shop to take it to. Sorry for double posting.

Customer has a car that is supposely leaking oil from the headgaskets, (98 Subaru Forester) car was just in before the trip and no oil leaks. She is in the Palm Springs/ Palm Desert area, and would like to know where there is a good independent shop to take it to. Sorry for double posting.

As always, help in any way that I can. Richie

1. Can reset the ECM by leaving the battery disconnected overnight 2. Put a little grease on the fuel filter lines so next time it won't be so hard. There is a special tool for removing hose, might want to get it if you continue to do your own filters. 3. Just need to get fuel line at the parts place,, not sure of diameter. 4. I recommend replacing the wires, I do mine every 60k. If it a 2.5DOHC (it has platinum plugs so I doubt it) they are going to be expensive. If it is 2.5SOHC (all after 2000) then they are like $35 bucks from the dealership. No replacement on the coil. 5. Wires run from the spark plugs to the coil. (that black box thingy ) 6. No special tools. On a side note if the spark plug wires have oil on them, they have a spark plug seal leaking and need to replace the valve cover gaskets, grommets and spark plug seals.