richierich

No they shouldn't. Make sure that the connections on the alternator are plugged in right and that the 10mm bolt is tight and not cross threaded. BTW: Subaru sells the cheapest alternator for the 95-99 because of an overstock issue.

I recommend replacing the seals and grommets, the seals do leak especially after 15 years. It can be done from the top, but you may find it easier to take stuff out of the way like battery and washer bottle on the driver side. One the passengers I would just take off the top of the air box and the plastic tube running to the throttle body. Might want to replace the oring on the oil tube as well. Book pays 1 hour, I say you will do it in an 1.5 hours, maybe less..... Good Luck.

One test drive around the block can tell us if it is a clutch or a hydraulic clutch issue. Unfortuately not open on Mondays, I will stop by the shop later and see if you left a message. And a OEM Clutch Assembly, flywheel turn, labor and baffle plate/rear crank seal if neccessary is WAAAY under $800 at our shop.

Very good information, did not know that the 1990 were weaker than the rest. Seems that the 90 and 91 always have the most miles thus more problems. Just to set things straight my shop is located in Portland, OR. But expand to Seattle and than take over the world, Muuuahhh!!!!

Just to let you know, World Pac who owns Redline, says that they are starting making more carbs, I got a price quote on a 32/36 DGEV for $310, they do not have the set up with adapter and filter yet but is going to let me know.

I also live in Portland and don't think we get enough snow to run studded tires all winter long. Studs aren't great for roads and are not good for stopping in the rain. We get a lot of rain. That being said, my ski wagon 98 Outback, I am running studded snow tires. I bought them with wheels for a good price, and I usually only drive it from my house in gresham to mt. hood. Otherwise I try and drive the BRAT. My wife has a 00 GT Sedan, we are going to get some snow tires for it as soon as I get time to find some. We plan on taking it up to Spokane (like Bend) and go skiing in January, and go over to Idaho to see her parents so we need better than rain tires on it. I have WRX wheels to put them on, I am going to go studless on hers because 1) studs are bad for roads 2) she doesn't go to the mountain , 3) long drive to Spokane, don't want to hear studs 4) Great advancement in studless snow tires 4) Don't have to take them on and off when it is not snowing. I am going to go with the Hakka or the Blizzak. Do a search for this topic and snow tires, and I think you will come up with the same conclusion. PM me if you find a good deal in Portland and I will do the same for you. Richie

Got finished with the OB at 8:00, took longer than I estimated. Got new Cam/crank seals, waterpump, t-belt and drive belts. Put the studs on and checked the front brakes. Bought a new remote but couldn't get the keyless entry to work (looks like they cut the wires) :-\ . But the most important thing got installed. THE RADIO, now I don't have to listen to myself think, or hear the snow tires. Forgot to pick up something at the shop, so I am going to stop by there on my way out, and check and see what the Check Engine light says. But should be there by 9:30 if I leave the house at 6:00.

Pretty sure I am going to be coming up as well. Lisa has to work all day, and if I don't come up, I will wind up working at my shop or on the house, . Anyways, I have to put new cam seals in my OB, and since I am in there, crank seal, waterpump, etc, etc. Was going to start on it tonight after I finished the rear struts and rear brake but decided to drive it home instead. But I have Wednesday night and all day Friday. Looks right about 3 hours. So if I leave at 6 am, then I should be there in enough time.

I'll PM you with some prices. Same bearings in the manufacters box instead of Subaru boxes, if you care. Richie

I am interested in knowing what behind the timing belt covers. I have seen EA82 and EJ22 engine with terrible noises that end up being idler bearings or tensioner bears for the timing belts. This is my opinion, but you are free to change your oil when ever you feel like it, but I do it within 3000-5000 depending on driving habits. Usually I find that at 1000, no oil consumption, 2000 miles no oil consumption, 3000, down 1/2 to 1 quart. That tells me the oil is breaking down and burning itself. In addition if you pull the dipstick and it looks dirty, then the oil has already broken down to some point.

Go look at this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22907 Might help you a bit. The valve are sticking in the heads. There is a certain spot on the valve that has more carbon build up, and that is why at a certain speed/RPM it stick rather than at full throttle. But what do I know, just do this for a living. Never had one that couldn't be fixed without a few treatment of Motor Vac. But have also used Mystery Marvel and Injector cleaners.

Looking good. Someday I want one in that color. All I seem to get is Black ones.

I vote for 5 speed conversion!!!!!!

95% of the time a AWD vehicle with traction tires are all that are need the signs usually say "carry chains or traction tire" . If you don't use traction tires, then yes you will have to carry chains with you. Under the other 5% of the time the signs says chains required. Under those conditions they can stop you and make you turn around if you don't have chains. These would be severe blizard type condition they you may not want to drive in anyways. Most Subaru drivers with traction tires risk that they will never be in those situations. If you are in a blizard type situation or 14 inches of snow, there are enough slipage that having chains on only the front will not damage the AWD because all tires are spinning and the car will not be allowed to "bind up" (like using chains on light snow or ice.) Maybe that is why the manual does not say to use them on all 4 because that would cause binding of the tranny? (Just thinking out loud)

Looks like it is gone, went to get the phone number was going to make them an offer since that wanted to sell it, look for it on ebay.

As an independent shop owner can I ask a few questions? 1) when was the 30k service done? 2) Was the 30k done as per owners manual? 3) What kind of driving conditions is this vehicle under? The reason I ask is that you may be over maintaining your vehicle. If you do a lot of highway miles you might be able to extend the time between major services to 40k or every 2 years (which ever comes first) . Most fluids last out that long ( 2 years) under normal driving conditions. Severe driving conditions would be as a courier service, which might be the case considering that you have already replaced your brake pads twice. Another question is quality of pad. You might want to go to a ceramic brake pad that disperses heat better if you do a lot of stop and go driving. I recommend going into your mechanic for an oil change and ask him what he believes the servicing your vehicle needs. In that case I usually pull "A" spark plug, check all the fluids and make a recommendation for the vehicle. The timing belts are lasting long because of the rubber they are using and the mesh that is inside them. Most T-belts are 100k belts because California requires all vehicles to have T-belt or chains last out that long since 1995. But if Oil or Antifreeze gets on the belts than that might effect the overall life of the belt. So with the 96-99 2.5 DOHC, I recommend replacing the t-belt if we do the front crank seal (oil pump seal) even if it is at 50-60k miles.

We took the Outback out there about an hour and a half later, and it was sitting on top of the vehicles waiting its turn...... It has already helped a few cars, we took a fuel line off of it a month ago, Mike sold a few things, and hopefully the front clip will help a wrecked vehicle. There was very few good things left, maybe a couple of doors, but there was not storage room for them.

Rattlewagon wants tranny mounts for his 73. PM me or him about them.

Thats not fair. Who would have guessed a plug air filter on ed's car. I figured everything was in tip-top shape, so regular maintaince items could be ruled out. BAD ED. As punishment, not allowed to drive the New Brat for a week. But on the bright side, I bet you will get better gas mileage.

I think Ed is on the right track. Most inner CV boots break over the axle when the catalytic convert is going bad or is aftermarket. I had a customer running around with a ea82 axle in her 1989 Hatch. When he orders axles, make him order it for a 84 ea81 hatch and the right parts will come in.

Very good advise from Cookie and Commuter, not much more to add. Just to let everyone know, I merge these topics because they were on the VERY same subject. We try to keep new topics down to a minimum because they push all the topics down. We have a pretty good search function, and I recommend that newer users try that before posting new topics. A LOT of knowledge can be found in these pages by using the search function. Though I can see why Tubeamp posted, cuz he was concerned about the new car he had just bought.

You have forgotten some information. Particularily, how many miles on the vehicle? Weather you have done a fulll service to it, or just the items that you mentioned. You might also might want to look at the following post concerning the oil on the plug wire. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24449&page=1&pp=10 I think a fouled wire could cause a decrease in mileage more than any additive. Never had a customer complain of that.

In 1998, I had a 1986 GL10 Turbo Sedan with 50k on it. It was almost BRAND new. The crushed velour interior wasn't even crushed yet! Stole it, I mean bought it from a little old lady. I loved that car. My dad's 83 Turbo BRAT has barely over 100k on it.

What so Subaru is 5 or 8 years late, as usual? Found this though. http://ymmv.coffeehaus.com/archives/001325.html My customer were looking for a 7 seater, I said wait for the Tribeca. Well that was a joke for a 7 seater, most ended up with a Volvo 70 series. That van does not look very big. See 3rd post down. Looks like it was a hoax. If we were getting a Van in 07 we would hear about it by now. http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef8938d

The Legacy L should have a 2.2 liter motor. This is Subarus diehard motor and should last up to 300k if properly taken care of. The 2.5 Liter available in the Outback, GT and 98 Forester is the one known for Headgasket failure. Waterpump failure is not a sign of bad headgasket. Most people replace the waterpump around 120k mark with the timing belt because of age rather than failure, though I have seen them go bad. Waterpumps can go bad in two ways. 1) the bearing can start making noise 2) they can start to leak. Good luck with your purchase.