richierich

Remove Engine is the first step. You really need a good book for you will not be able to do it, my dad showed my the FSM for doing it, I do not know if Chilton or Haynes describe it. A bad waterpump is usually the death of a Justy.

There is a few good write-ups in USRM-Repair & Mods. It is not that different than a wagon or a BRAT, I bought a kit from Bratsrus, in Selah WA. If you are not into metal fabrication than that is what I recommend. I wish it had come with a list of items that you would need. I had a transmission and a driveline and his kit, and did not see how to install it. I had to go look at other vehicle that had it installed before I realized I needed the shift linkage portion of the 5 speed dual range to make it work. But I really enjoy my 5 speed BRAT especially on the freeway. Edrach says he can do 80 doing about 3500-4000 rpms, but at 70 mph I am pushing 3500 rpms so I am not sure about the difference but it may be in the tires that we are using.

1) You got a plug cross threaded. 2) You did not get a plug wire properly snapped to the plug. 3) You did not check to make sure the plug wires that fit on the distributor cap were inserted correctly into the cap (may not have enough of the end showing to make good contact. 4) You installed the spark plug wires on the cap in the wrong order. 5) You messed with the timing 6) You had the problem before you did the tune-up and you need other tune-up related items because wires and spark plug did not fix your problem. I am going with #3, but I have seen them all. Good Luck tell us what you find.

Well it depends on how you do it. If you take the hub assembly out, and press out the bearing on a press, then yes you have to realign it as the bolt that hold the hub to the strut will change alignment. If you take the axle out, and press out the bearing on the vehicle and then press them back in on the vehicle (like a real subaru shop, aka Smart Service, Superior Import Repair) then no you do not have to do an alignment. Our tool is called a HubBuster, but they might have another set up as well. Les Schwab sometime beats my price on wheelbearing installment, but they don't tell people that they are going to need an alignment or add it on to the price. In addition we use OEM bearings from the dealership while Les Schwab uses ????

Lisa plays that game, kind of long for just a weekend. Quote: Originally Posted by MorganM Who all is gonna be too busy oogel'n over Subarus and tear'n up the obsticle course to play stupid console games? I WOULD BE We still oogel'n over them in the dark last year, heck the XT6 didn't even come in till close to Midnight.

No dealer is dumb enough to get rid of their key cutting machine for the 90 vehicles, they are they same from 85-99, and there are a lot of 95-99 Subarus still going to the dealership for work. Does that mean that they can't cut key for any of those customers. BS. The dealership that I work with gets me key made all the time for customers using the 4 digit number. They have even helped with the VIN #, although that is sometimes hit or miss depending on age of vehicle and if the dealership that recieved the vehicle new put it into the data base. If you can't get any satisfaction locally, PM me and I will get you the help you need if you have the 4 digit #.

I'll take a chance on that Corky. I am also looking for the Kamei front spoiler for the convertible. If anyone has one for sale, I am interested, and I promise is going to a good project. Any one know how narrow that Kamei 79 spoiler is compared to the ones for the newer cars?

You expect Jiffy Lube to pay for your headgasket failure, on a vehicle that is KNOWN for headgasket failure, ( look it up in our search engine, about every post on the 2.5 is bubble in the overflow bottle) Just because they were the last to touch it? If you drove away from Jiffy Lube and the temperature guage did not shoot to hot within a couple of blocks then it did not have an air bubble, no air bubble no fault. Did they tell you it needed a coolant service, or did you ask them to do it? If they said it needed a coolant service, was it because the antifreeze was discolored? If it was then chances are that the headgaskets have been bad for a while. Headgaskets usually show signs of Hydrocarbons in the overflow bottle. When I car comes in, for service we visually inspect the overflow bottle and smell the antifreeze. I am not a big Fan of Jiffy Lube but at the same time, it is hard to say it was Jiffy Lubes fault when there is no signs that it was.

I believe in OE equipment, that that doesn't always mean you have to buy from the dealership. Many parts are manufactered by a company for Subaru. So the OE waterpump for most GL/Loyales is a Paraut/Atsugi with the 8mm hole. You can save over $20 by buying it at a parts store rather than the dealership. Most seals are made by NOK, and when in doubt always buy from the dealership. I disagree about the Spark Plugs, buy NGK from a parts store and save yourself money, they are EXACTLY the same, the big box that NGK come in says made in Japan, the 4 spark plug box says made in the US and the small single box spark plug says Made in Japan. They are a multination company, you really don't know where the Subaru ones are made now. Mike, just because you have had one bad experience with the ones bought at the part store, you have bought from the dealership, but my father who is a Subaru mechanic who has work at the dealership for 20 years has had plenty of bad NGK that have came in a Subaru box.

The sedan was sold in the US from 1980-1984. Most of them were 2WD, and as not being as desirable as a Wagon and not a 4WD, they have a higher rate of ending up at the wrecking yard than the Wagon, Coupe or BRAT. The 4WD Sedans only came out in 83-84, and were only available as Automatic non-turbo. These made them very sluggish. ( I know because my grandmother had one, and use to have to take it to the mountain when I was 15-16) Being an automatic, they are not good for 4wheeling, so people have either converted to a 4speed or have converted a 2WD to 4WD (only Hondasucks, I know of) The 2WD came with metal bumpers, usually chrome, but the 4WD came with the plastic bumper like on the 4WD Wagons, so it it interesting that your vehicle has plastic bumpers.

Distributor?

If you are going to be taking the timing belt back off, you need to see about replacing the crank and cam seals, if there is oil in the timing belt area, that is where it is coming from. If you just replaced the belt, it is going to get oil saturated again, and it will severely shorten the life of the timing belt. One of the leading cause of failures on GL/Loyale is oil and antifreeze contamination. Like most people you have figured an easy way to get the front crank bolt off, but very few have told me reasonable solutions for getting the front crank bolt tightened again. Not having the bolt tighten to proper specs can cause crank shaft damage.

It is very hard to make money on older vehicles, my father thinks that just cuz you can buy an 84 Wagon for $100 it is a good deal. But it take new axles, seats, tune-up, radiator, etc, pretty soon you are in it $700, not including your labor, and what do you have? A $1000. Unless you have that stuff laying around it will probably cause you more to fix up than it it going to be worth. Which is fine if you plan on keeping it, but not ok if you main goal is to make money off of it.

To have a reputable shop replace the reciever dryer, all the o-ring in the system and convert a vehicle over to R134 (including sucking out all the R12 Oil) and putting in R134 oil would cost you about $250-$400. You do that and 2 months later the 15 year old A/C compressor goes out. And you are pissed. He probably saw the system was flat and inserted R134. Sound like he charged you a half an hours labor and two bottle of R134. When we have a flat R134 system at our shop, the evacuate, check for leaks, and refill system is 1 hour plus freon, more if we put dye in the system. Basically $78-81. R134 conversions start at $130, and go up depending if customer wants a reciever dryer and orings replaced. You defiantely got what you paid for, but is the car worth putting tons of money into the A/C?, maybe he saw other repair items that he thought you could better use your money on, or better to save your money for future repairs. I can't knock him for a different style, and trying to save you some money on a 15 year old car.

Probably the rear cam plug oring, it is located on the back of the passenger side head. I can give you the part # if you want. Leaks on the back and down onto the engine cradle and then onto the exhaust. But if you have a high mileage vehicle it is possible the heads, how bad are they leaking and how much does it smell were determine how soon it needs to be done. Loyale's can leak at the heads and cam cases for years.

I just spent 30 minutes looking for articles or pictures of the 9.6X, there are a few discussion boards talking about it but no real pictures yet. It has been rumored that the 9.6X won't have 3rd row seating which would be absurd, since that is the whole reason Subaru built the B9. I haven't seen one in person but do not like the grille, but would consider the Saab with the Suby engine if it was pleasing to the eye and I needed a 7-pass vehicle. The seats in the back are ment for kids, you have to be an idiot to not figure that out. But so where the seats in my mom's 80 Ford LTD Station Wagon. I drove one of my customer's 05 Forester the other day, and it did not drive any better than our best friends 01 Forester. The platform is over 8 years old now. Meaning it drove like a small SUV. The new Toyota's and Honda's drive a lot nicer than the Forester. So I am hoping the B9 Tribeca can bring Subaru up to speed. If people will buy them.

I been watching the post, if you will honor $275, I will take the 20th set, not sure if I want black or white. I know it a day late, but there has been some confusion because of WJM. Richie

Had this the other day on a customer's car. It was just the fuse, did you replace the fuse? and or check the fuses w/ a tester?, or just visually inspect it, they can be bad without looking bad.

If your vehicle still has a Duty Solenoid C, and you ruin it because of the tires being mismatched, even putting in the fuse may not help it, it may still bind. Saw this with a 91 Legacy AWD Auto the other day. I probably not as strigent as the 1/4 inch rule, but I have seen mismatch tires cause damage to the AWD system. The ones that get ruined within a 100 miles are usually stories of people driving the donut spare at freeway speeds for a couple of day. These people are DUMB because they should read what is written on the spare as well as the owner's manual. bjwirth: It CAN cause damage. Not it WILL cause damage. You drive with mismatch brand of tires (same manufacter's size ex. 185/70/15) with different tread depth, it CAN cause damage over time. Not a risk I want to take knowing that a rebuilt transmission costs over $1500. You drive for days with your donut spare on, or for month with tires with different manufacter's size ( 185/80/15 vs 185/70/15) and you WILL cause damage.

About a month ago, my father rebuilt 3 carbs in one week, one had zero problems, other came back for minor adjustments,(linkage was dried out) but the third it left and was running perfect, the owner called and said it hadn't ran that well in about a year. About 2 weeks later, he called and it wouldn't idle, my father took it apart and 2 times and couldn't get it to run right, even with a different car top. Finally just rebuilt a different carb for him. Carbs can be tough. If the car was running, I would have hoped he would send you out the other carb first if he has an extra so that you can keep your vehicle on the road. But the fact that it has a blown gasket, makes that point void.

Having owned about 3 Turbo Legacy, I think the VLSD was standard on the 1991 and optional on the 1992 and 1993. I have looked at a few 93 and they did not have them. It was a $900 option.

I disagree with that statement, you make the Outback sound like a Ford Pick-up Truck but it is true at high speeds (over most legal limits) you will find the Outback does not handle as well as the GT. Subaru of America had an evasive driving course set up a few years back and they used the Outback for it and I don't think it handled badly on the course. I find my Legacy GT handling to be excellent in the snow/rain and on regular roads as well. My 98 Outback to be good but with a little more body roll. (not fair though comparing a 98 to a 00) I think you will be happy with what ever vehicle you buy. But since ground clearance is an issue you might want to get the Outback, it is more money but the difference in payments might be like $40 a month. They both have good resale value especially where you are, and the Outback will always be worth more than the Legacy, though not $6000 dollars more (For example when the Legacy is worth $10,000 the Outback will be worth $13000)

Very Cool. Can't wait to see it.

Sounds like a fair deal, I charge a slightly higher price for my axle/labor. The thing to consider is if your axle fails do you have any labor warranty? Customers can bring in their own parts, new or used. But they are not warranteed. Meaning that if you brought in an axle at it was to make noise next week or next month, I do not have to install another one for free. Where as if I install one of my own axles I have to warrantee the parts and labor for year, 363 days later if the axle makes noise, I have to install another axles at no charge to you.

I think it is pretty amazing especially because it gets so cold where you are and I would think that would take a toll on the battery. Shows how long stuff will last if you take care of it, vs. not getting proper maintance.