richierich

There are about 15 threads covering this subject. You can use the search mode to find the answer to your questions. Long story short. Check for Hydrocarbons in radiator/overflow bottle, probably has bad headgaskets.

This from the guy that had all his trim painted Blue on his Gold Subaru wagon? You are never going to live that down Junkie, . It probably would only look good on a black vehicle like yours, and as long as it doesn't make the police take a second look at you, I think it is pretty cool. Make sure the bulbs and contacts are good. Nothing I hate more is the ricers with blacked out taillights and dim bulbs so you can see when they are braking or turning, etc.

Move it for ya. Very Cool. Will have to think about doing that when I do the rear brake set up on mine. I am sure you could whip it around a few corners and tell us how it performs.

The WRX tire/wheel set-ups work well on the Legacy because they are not that much taller just a little wider., but they usually fit unless you have a heavy load in the bakc I am almost willing to bet that the Forester tires will rub. The wheels will be the same but the tires are too big for the wheel wells.

I did not see a difference in the pictures, I don't remember the oil cooler line coming off of the oil pump but haven't had one off in about 6 months. But the part # is different and I believe that have a different oil pressure rating.

97 Outbacks have hydraulic clutches, they have no cable to adjust. Since they system is hydraulic either you have a problem with the hydraulic system or with the clutch assembly itself. For the hydraulic system either the slave cylinder (one that moves the throw-out arm) it sits on top of the transmission is going out, or the clutch master cylinder is going out. We have also seen the throw-out bearing arm crack and not let it go in and out of gear but the pedal usually comes up and goes down, just the clutch does not disengage so it will grind but not go into gear.

Even if it currently is drivable, (and can open and close the doors) we have all heard the saying 'rust never sleeps'. It would be not be a good idea to put a lot of money or time into a vehicle that is not going to be around in a few years because of rust. I am sure us westcoast guys would be more than happy to look out for a nice coupe for you to move all the convertible parts to. In addition the convertibles were done after the were brought to the US so the VIN of the vehicle does not corrospond to it being a convertible or not. As a fellow convertible owner, I hope you can keep one on the road.

PM Mudrat79, he is a off-road speciality shop in Eugene, he does lift and exhaust work, and your vehicle would fall under exhaust work, not sure it he has a OBDII machine but can probably get one if necessary, if nothing else he can get the parts for you and install them at a cost a lot less than the dealer. Like I said would not drive it much until you find out why the check engine and trans light are coming on. Good Luck.

Yeah, I admit I am a Subaru freak, especially ea81T. I think the power is pretty good compared to the non-turbo models, the bodies are lighter than the ea82 bodies so I think they are quicker, if not faster. Sorry about the pop-ups, going to move my site to my other website as soon as I get a chance, haven't updated it in years.

As MSSLGECKO said we have a whole forum dedicated to off-road Subarus. You best bet is to read some of the other posts, particularily the ones under frequently asked questions and then ask question that still need to be answered. I am going to close this thread since pertains to Off-Roading, and I think you will find many post like this already in the off-road forum. And as a non-involved party, let me give ShadyIrishmen a little advice. There once was a company called "SubaruGods", and they became part of the message board. The sold new and used parts. Someone would post a question and immediately that would post that they had the part to fix it, how much it was and offer no advice to the person with the question. This got quite old very fast and finally they were run off by a few regular board members. I guess it is not really advice as much as it is a story. I own a Subaru repair shop and I have to bite my tongue and just offer advise unless someone request parts that I have for sale. I am part of this board because I enjoy owning and fixing up Subarus, not selling parts.

yeah, the email address on the webpage is wrong, too. Superior Import Repair, Inc 4443 NE 82nd Ave Portland OR 97220 503-288-8634 I would say it not safe to drive till the codes are checked and find out what they are. The exaust might be fixible depending on where the damage was done, if you are not in the Portland area, let us know because there are a few other shops around that are decent.

After you replace the thermostat, it works best if you take the upper radiator hose off of the radiator and fill up the engine with antifreeze till it almost comes out the hose, put the hose back on and tighten it. Then fill up the radiator and overflow bottle. Makes it much harder to get an air bubble in the system that way.

Thats right, mine is a 7/8th.

I don't think he is dealing with a con-artist. The mechanic tried to install T-belts, got one off a notch, started it up, ran rough, wouldn't idle or accelerate properly and figured it was a bent valve rather than re-checking his work. Hey I get about 1/20 of the EA82 Belts off a notch, and I have been doing them for 11 years. I always tighten the tensioners and then rotate the belts once and then re-check them. I got a Legacy belt off the other day, and you can't do that unless you are an idiot. :-\ So here is what you do. Take the passenger side fan out (10 mm) . Then remove the outer timing belt covers that go over the cams.(10mm socket) Use a 22mm(?)(I forget, it is the worn one in my tool box) socket to turn the crank bolt, look in the access hole of the motor (have to remove the spare tire to see it,) there will be a notch to line up the crank. Turn the crank until you see 3 thin lines on the flywheel (5speed) or flexplate (automatic), and line up the middle one with the notch. Then take a look at the cam gears. One small ( o ) circle on the faces of the gear should be pointed up, and one should be pointed down. If you have a hard time see if it is correct, turn the motor over 180deg and look again. If one is off, I would put the fan back in, and take it down to the mechanic and have him fix it for free. (if you paid for it the first time). Good Luck and let us know. And I am glad that 85Sub4WD in his infiante wisdom at 19, (and 703 posts) knows more than all the Subaru mechanics at the dealership.

There is a guy in the marketplace that is selling the motor, ecu and wiring harness for a ea81T, I think you may need 10 posts to see the marketplace, but you should be able to post on this a couple of times, in the off-topic and maybe the site help area. I have a website with a few ea81T pics www.angelfire.com/on2/richie/Subaru/subsite.html

Perfectly legal. And I really fault the seller, not anyone who is interested in the vehicle. The guy came out to buy a car, he had money in his pocket. He made an offer on it, after someone else makes an offer. It was the sellers responsiblility to say "No, sorry I have already sold it" The seller should have never told you that he was going to sell it to you.

The overflow tank they are talking about is actually the one located on the engine. It has a radiator cap on it. So when it starts to pour out of there it is pouring on the engine.

I don't see a ea71/ea81 forum happening. For one thing it will end up with a lot of general Subaru questions that are relevant to the ea82 as well. And would gut the the Older Generation of Subaru forum. But I am pretty sure there is going to be a Restoration forum dedicated to the pre-ea81 Subarus. As time goes on and fewer people are using the ea81 for transportation, then it may be time to look at adding those to restoration as well. Truthfully I don't think it is going to be a big seller, there are a very few that still have the pre-e81 around, BUT this site was original two, one was USMB and one was a website owned by Subaru3( about the older ones) And I think it is wrong not to have a portion of the USMB dedicated to the older subaru restorations, we may even get more of the 360 crowd to see what we have. Richie

On the "black box" there the antenna wire for the keyless remote. It may not be extended far enough up the dash for it to get a proper sign. May want to reroute it and try and see if you get a better signal. I believe it is a white wire. Also a new battery can help with the signal from the remote.

I already checked it out, it has blown headgaskets, more beat up than the mileage looks like. Been driven hard and put away wet. Richie

I probably will email the person. After researching it, it was someone in Nevada. Wasn't sure it wasn't mtsmiths, at the time so that was also a reason for hesitation, didn't want to push the price up for the hell of it. But if I wasn't there he would have got it for $2650. Doesn't look like the person is a wheeler/dealer based on his purchases, so I doubt he will put it up for resale, like the guy with the 42k Turbo BRAT is doing.

Well, I wasn't even planning on bidding on it, I told my wife I wanted to get on to see what happened in the last few minutes of it. Then, I wanted to see what they guy who had been the high bid for 4 days max bid was, So I bid it up to 2800. Then I said to my wife I am going to bid it up to 3500, and she said 'ok" thinking any minute it was going to go wild. But the other person just keep inching up $150 at a time. The auction ended at $3550, and about 10 sec later my wife said " What it at?" I said $3550. She said "are you going to outbid it?" and I said no it over. I probably could have got it for under $4000, but we just hadn't even talked about it, and I had not heard back from the seller to see it he could keep it there for 3-4 weeks, while I scheduled to come down. Ow well, still got the one in the garage.

I bid it up to $3500, figured I was going to have to pay shipping to get it up here of about $800 bucks. It went for $3550. A lot less than the guy wanted. So did anyone get it? Richie

I don't "think" it was the thermostat, you had an air bubble in the motor. The thermostat was just a back up guess. Thermostat was not bad when you took it out and unless you dropped it or damaged it, it didn't go bad. If you look in the manual it says you have to take the relief valve out of the passenger top side of the radiator to get it to fill. I just take the hose off to make sure the antifreeze gets in the motor.

You have an air bubble in the motor, and it is not letting the antifreeze circlulate. If it was my car I would get a new thermostat and gasket (if you did not get a gasket last time). Replace the thermostat. Take the upper radiator hose off at the radiator and put antifreeze in it (going into the motor) until it almost came out the hose. Should take 1/2 gallon to maybe 2/3. Fill up the radiator til it stops bubbling. Start the car, and finish filling up the radiator. Fill the over flow bottle about 2 inches about the full line. Good Luck Richie