richierich

Nobody. Does it have a title? The fact of the matter is, since there is nothing of value left on the car a junk yard does not want it, and since it doesn't have too much scrap metal on it, it is not worth the scraper's time to come and pick it up. If you can get it down to N Columbia you can take it to the wrecking yard there and they will give you a couple of bucks ($20) for scrap. An SS Subaru is usually a Sport Sedan. But in this case it means that it is a type of Boat.

The Dude, also forgot to tell you to change your fluids every 30,000. You got off luck this time, might not be so luck next time. I have a customer that used his car in his job as a ski instructor, he has me change his fluid every fall. This may be excessive, but it is his opinion that the service is way cheaper than a transmission, and he knows he drives it hard up to the mountain.

Did you get charged $250 for the harmonic balancer, or $250 for fixing the problem including installing the harmonic balancer? A new harmonic balancer lists for $110 dollars. A good mechanic will take the timing belt off. Repair the crank, install a new woodrift key and hopefully a new crank seal. Sometimes the crank gear is damaged because it has to be chiseled off to get it off the damaged crank. If you paid $250 for a front crank pulley, you got ripped off and should call the better business bureau. If you paid $250 for getting it fixed right, you got a steal, because other less knowledgible mechanics may have told you, needed a new crank. If he just put a new harmonic balancer on, you are in jeopardy of having it happen again. It needs to be fixed correctly. Even if it takes adding metal to the crank and then having it ground back off. Not all crank are fixible, every situation is different.

Remove the battery and the coolant bottle. Take the motor mounts loose and shift the motor. I haven't done it yet, but that is what I had to do to one WRX that I couldn't get to a plug. I am sure it is going to pay close to 2.0 hours. You will also need a socket with 3 bends to it but not 3 wobbly extensions.

I have a least one set-up. But if I know I have another person interested I would buy another parts vehicle. To answer your question Barracuda, maybe. There is one already predrilled that is usually used for the ground cable. There may or may not be two more "tabs". If the tabs are there, then yes it can be drilled and tapped, but be careful because the waterjacket is right behind there. I am currently in the middle of moving to a larger shop, but will get a price quote to you after the first of February. Been working in one form or another till about 9:30 every night.

Attn: RedBrat, I will email you about pricing later, as I am out of the shop but can talk about the conversion itself. We have done this to a couple of vehicles, My dad's old 82 BRAT, a Wagon for a customer. In addition my 85 BRAT has powersteering on it, installed by the previous owner, and I bought it for the same reason, my wife being able to drive my BRAT. In addition, it really does make it nicer to drive. Yes, you install the whole cross member, and all the power steering parts from another vehicle. The 84 and newer motors should have the 3 bolts on the head to mount up the power steering pump. On the 82 we did new headgaskets and switch out the head. It was the easiest conversion since the motor was out.

I can get my hands on my old turbo coupe ea81 . It is pretty nice shape, showing 118k on the odo. I have been hesitant to buy it since I already have one that is nicer and we have the turbo BRAT and a parts car. Here are some pics of it. http://www.angelfire.com/on2/richie/Subaru/ea81Turbo2.html

The answer is NO. 4door and Wagon doors are different than Hatch, Brat and Coupe.

Plug wires are pretty common problem on the Phase 2 engine. Subaru has dropped the price on the wires to retail of $35.00, compare that to the other wires that go for $42-59.00, and you know there might be a problem. Unfortuately, that is not your problem. You have to start with a coil pack. I can not see al the injectors going bad all at once.

The headgasket failure is an external leak on your vehicle, it is usually from the back of the driver's side head. It can be checked out by a mechanic before you leave. Usually there are some seepage, long before it starts to leak so I would not worry about it on your vehicle. Don't wait two days before your trip to take it in like some people (trust me I own a shop) just to find out you do have a major problem and have to borrow/rent a car. I would have my 60k service done if it hasn't already or maybe your 75k service since it might be time. I would replace the spark plug wires as they have been starting to fail on the 2000-2002, because of age and mileage. That will be a good time to check for a internal oil leak at the spark plug seals (located in valve cover) would hate to have a oil fouled plug on your trip. And of course safety items, flares, etc.

58k miles on a 2000 Legacy GT and I haven't had the dealership add the additive, but since I own an independent Subaru repair shop have added it to a few customer vehicles when doing coolant services. I don't add as much as it says. But do have to do it to keep the 100k warrantee in effect. I charged $800 for the last heater core on a 97 Legacy, that was parts and labor. Dealer wanted $1050. I had a antifreeze recyler look at the stuff, he didn't believe it was same as stop leak, but in some ways it must be. Austin that works at Carter Subaru has added it to an older Legacy and if fix an external headgasket leak. On vehicle that have headgasket problems, it seems that antifreeze is seeping from other places as well, almost all the hose clamps have green stains around them.

I can live with everything but the front end. It looks like it has a snout. Not looking for anything right now anyways but eventually would consider a 7 passenger, maybe the Saab will look better. That is spooky Qman.

If they don't come out, put a little silicon over them before putting the valve cover back on.

John (Mudrat79 in Eugene is custom making transmission with center differentials and I think 3.9 Gear ratios, you should contact him. My third gear sychros are worn in my RX, I am using sythetic, might try the reslone. Usually sychros wear because the owner of the vehicle holds on to the shifter.

yes, you should but you should put in new half moons, rather than trying to reseal those in. If you can't get them or don't want to do it, it is better to leave them alone, than take them out and reseal the oil ones. Grey High Temp Permatex will work. Also put a dab of it where the camshaft seal housing and the valve cover gasket touch. (There should be little bit of it dried up there, so clean that off and then add somemore.

From what I have heard, yes you can. But if you do you have to weld in a mount for the carrier bearing mounted in the center of the 85 and newer driveline. My father and I were discussing this, and he thought that the guys using there vehicles for off-road would be interested in doing that since it is more stable and less likely to have vibrations. I said it was not a big deal since it is only a few inches longer and that my vehicle is used for street use.

I thought the ones with black bumpers were the 90 base models. I bet all the ones with black bumpers have roll up windows and no air conditioning. Then in 91 they decide they were ugly and so they added the painted bumpers. In the 89 Subaru line up, they do not show a Legacy. They usually start building in April or May (4/89 or 5/89) for the next year, but maybe they started early.

I an the next in line to get one, already put my order in . My tranny is fubar'd, but I only drive 1.5 miles to work everyday. The only other thing you will need is the driveline lengthened. Any driveline shop can do that for you. There are core parts needed, might be able to help you both out with those, long as I get mine back when your done. The core parts I believe are: shifter rod, and the motor mounts. Both of those have to be adapted to fit the new transmission.

Test Drive it? And let it out in the rain? I don't think so. Lucky I have an alarm at my shop otherwise I would have to sleep in the bed. LOL. It is the nicest BRAT we have ever owned, other than my dad's 78, before it was wrecked.

Shawn is the closest. It is just a plain old BRAT with 73k miles on it. Pics at the top. Would have posted more but have to go meet up with Mike at the shop.

Don't really want to get alloys way with it, if I am going to lower the price. So ea81 steel wheel should work? I guess I will try it tomorrow, and let you know.

I was more talking about the volume of Subaru Mark has. Not a 85-86 RX.

Looking to take the tires and wheels off of the 79 before I get rid of it. Will wheels off of a 84 Subaru work? I remember my sisters 79 GF and something scraping on the back when it had newer style spare tire put on the back.

I only brag about the ones that I think will interest the board. I am just trying to keep up with Mark, I think he has the market cornered on older Subarus. Not a 87 XT Turbo but if someone finds one in bright blue, let me know. I owe my father one. (long story, involving an accident)

Any guesses? It is a Subaru If moderator feels this is off-topic, please move it as you see fit.