Phillip

I also bought a '99 Subaru Outback Wagon becaue I thought it would be a reliable vehicle. I replaced the engine at 91,000 miles (spun rod bearing) and just had the automatic transmission rebuilt at 98,000 miles. I've had an on-going battle with the check engine light (2-knock sensors, vapor canister leaks, wiring harness resistance, etc). Good thing my wife loves the car...I've never had so much vehicle trouble in my 35-years of driving experience. This Subaru is definately my last! Good luck

I just purchased a 1987 Subaru GL 4x4 Wagon for my son. I'm interested the how reliable the turbocharged engine is, and any inherent problems these cars have. The car has 142,000 miles on it, and runs & drives very well. All replies will be greatly appreciated. Phillip

I've got a check engine light on with a knock sensor code set on my '99 Legacy Outback. The service manual calls for 560 kohm, mine measures 545 kohm. Not much off spec, but I suspect far enough trip the code. This is the third knock sensor I've replaced, the first two were OEM. Any ideas about what's causing the sensor to fail so often?

The block was new when I replaced the knock sensor; I'll pull it off and clean the surface. Thanks for the tip!

My Check Engine Light illuminated a few days ago; I scaned the system and got a #325 code (Knock Sensor Input High). I just replaced knock sensor with an new OEM part about 6-months ago - does anyone know what would cause repeated knock sensor failure? Additionally, does anyone know the resistance (in ohms) the sensor should have. The vehicle is a 1999 Outback with a 2.5 engine. Thanks in advance for any help.

Does anyone have any experience with Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires on an Outback Wagon? I'm ready for new tires and looking for a quiet ride and good wet traction. My local tire dealer highly recommended these tires. At $312 with rebate, the price is great, but I sure don't want poor performance. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Why would you want to 'double-clutch' a transmission that has syncronizers? In 35-years as a mechanic, I've never seen the center section of a syncro ring wear out. I have seen them break or tear the teeth off when someone was unsuccessful at double-clutching, but never wear out. Additionally, why put the additional wear & tear on the clutch linkage and clutch hydraulic system? I'd recommend using it like it was designed.

The original post requested information on some $49 tires listed on e-bay. I'd call a $49 tire from China a cheap tire...just one man's opinion.

What's your life worth? After shipping, you really aren't saving much over a quality tire. What happens if you blow one? I'm a firm believer in You Get What You Pay For. My experience with cheap tires has not been good.

My '99 Outback Wagon spun two rods bearings at 91,000 miles. I'm a mechanic and planned to turn the crank and replace the bearings. The crank couldn't be turned. My cost (wholesale) for a new crank and the bearings (only available from Subaru) was about $600. With an oil pump & gaskets it was nearly $900. My cost for a new shortblock from Subaru was $1200 - $1700 with gaskets, oil pump, etc. I bit the bullet an bought the new shortblock. At 96,000 miles, the trans started slipping in 3rd gear. I just got it back from the trans shop for $1950. This is my first, and LAST Subaru. My wife really likes the car, but I can't recall having so many mechanical problems with a car in 35+ years of driving. Additionally, few aftermarket parts are available and the dealer gets an arm and a leg for everything they sell! Just my opinion, but I'll buy another Honda or Toyota next time.

I bought a '99 Legacy Outback Wagon (91,000 miles) with a bad engine knock, planning to regrind the crank or find an inexpensive used engine (I'm a mechanic). Two rods, a reground crank, oil pump and a set of bearings & gaskets were nearly $1200. The cheapest used 2.5 engine I found was $1500 and it had over 100,000 miles on it. I got a 'deal' on a new shortblock (no remans available); with oil pump & gaskets I had about $1700 in parts. Now at 97,000 miles, the trans is slipping in third gear. My trans shop will go through it for about $1400. I bought the car real right, and my wife loves it, but I can't say I'm overly impressed with the reliability. Additionally, I'm not happy about the limited supply of aftermarket parts - the dealer gets an arm & leg for everything! Nice driving car, but I don't see much quality.

Does anyone know if the 1999 Legacy Outback Wagons were available with 16" tires and if WRX and Legacy wheels will interchange? I have an opportunity to purchase a set of 205/55ZR16 tires and wheels off a WRX. I've got 205/65R15's on my Outback. I'd hate to buy them and have a fit problem. I'm also concerned about any issues with the anti-lock brakes, and speedo. Sure appreciate any advice.

Thanks for the replies. I manage a large fleet of vehicles and deal with a very sharp local trans shop (Transmission Solutions in Eugene OR) who put his finger on the problem immediately. It's going in to the shop next Monday for $1400 worth of trans work! I must say that I haven't been all that impressed with the reliablity of Subaru's. At 91,000 miles I replaced the engine (spun two rod bearings) and now at 98,000 it's ready for major transmission work. My wife really loves her '99 Outback; too bad for me. Thanks again for your help.

The transmission in my '99 Outback Legacy Wagon is starting to slip on the 2-3 upshift and I need to replace it. Does anyone know the years/models that will interchange? Thanks in advance!

I've grown to hate the cup holder in my '99 Legacy Outback Wagon; The buttons on my heater/AC controls and stereo are constantly gummed up by spilled drinks. Has anyone found a better cup holder that fits these cars? If so, where did you mount it?

When did this problem show up? Have you done anything to the vehicle recently that might have caused this problem (ie replaced brake pads or a hydraulic line)? Spongy pedal feel and pedal traveling to the floor but being able to be pumped up are classic symptoms of air in the system. Modern vehicles with ABS brakes can be difficult to purge all the air from the brake system. I'd try bleeding the brakes again if it were me.

I would avoid using any type of hard scraping tool. Aluminum is very soft; even minor scratches can result in head gasket leakage. Chemical aerosol gasket removers are available. They do an excellent job cleaning the surface like new without scraping; you can use a soft plastic tool to remove any tough residue that a grease rag won't remove. The chemical is caustic and will burn your skin, so protect yourself with gloves.

Does anyone know where to find an aftermarket spin-on automatic transmission filter for a '99 Legacy Outback? I haven't checked my dealer yet, but will bet it's pricey.

I recently had to purchase a new short block for my '99 Outback (DOHC), and spent a good of time studying camshaft timing (and potential valve interference) before I installed the heads & timing belt. I didn't want to screw anything up! While the cams may turn slightly when the timing belt is removed, the valves will not strike each other if the procedure outlined in the manual is followed exactly (camshafts in correct postion as shown in the manual). The camshaft holding tool is a 'nice-to-have' not 'need-to-have' tool. The valve spring compressor is necessary to adjust the valves (unless the cams are removed). A job of this magnitude requires moderate to good mechanical skills. Assess your skills and available time before proceeding. Let us know how it goes.

1" difference is a bunch! Measure the distance around each of the four tires with a piece of string; I'd be concerned about more than 1/4" variance.

I'm looking for a trailer hitch for my 1999 Legacy Outback and have learned the factory model costs more than twice as much as a Draw-Tite or Reese (aftermarket) model. Has anyone installed an aftermarket unit? If so, was it satisfactory?

Mixing brands of coolants is not a good idea. While I generally prefer OEM components, any name brand coolant suitable for aluminum engines should be fine. I'd flush the engine with clean water (not some caustic cleaner), and refill with a 50-50 mix of water/coolant (assuming the temperature in your part of the country doesn't be below -37 degrees).

My owners manual calls for 75w90, no brand specified. Regardless what anyone tells me, I always go with the manufacturers recommendation.

We commonly use RTV in place of transmission pan gaskets (and many other applications too) in our shop with excellent results. Make sure your surfaces are clean and dry before applying the sealant, and follow the manufacturers directions. I've probably used every 'color' & 'type', all with excellent results.

Painting plastic panels is not something that can be easily done at home. Your bumper facia will likely need to be stripped of all finish, chemically cleaned, primed, and repainted. The paint requires a flex additive so it won't crack, and the paint/clearcoat will need to have an epoxy based hardner added to the paint mixture. If inhaled, the fumes from the epoxy paints & primers can be fatal; you'll need a fresh-air breathing appratus to spray it. Some jobs require a professional; this is definately one!