BlackBoot

Some new Pics, I have recently; steam cleaned again and will need more for the yellow smoke stains, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, timing belts, and have a new axle to put in. have a new harmonic balancer, but it has no hole, key hole so I'll have to drill one, and put the timing belt covers back on. then new muffler and air care, a bit of shine here and there and ready for the collector plates application.

Makes sense that 4wd struts are on a fwd, way more common and probably ended up on there that way. What is the difference if I am measuring?

My coupe has the same issue, back end is sagging, needs new shocks. I was thinking of leaving it like that and lowering the front to match, but the ride is too rough, bottoms out on speed bumps with anything loaded in the back. So I'll be getting new shocks.

I hope to have my 86 GL coupe looking as good as yours by the summer. And then apply for collector plates, 1/3 of the cost of regular insurance, but can't drive it to work or school.

All dried out and fresh interior, no smoke or musty smells anymore. Have to spend some time on my 92 loyale wagon, needs a new block

I got an oil pump from the yard, along with a cargo security divider and locking metal console and shelving for the back of my astro work van. All for $60! The manager must have thought I worked hard to get that all out in an hour. Hooray! For milwaukee M12 cordless power ratchet in 3/8 drive. New timing belts in, and running again. Now looking for new plugs, wires and disty. It's been sitting out in my neighbors yard for a month, until I got time to work on it, dampness problem now, lookingbout for mold. Should dry out now, it's back in the heated parking, it had to stay out of the garage, because I could coast it down into the parkade, but could not get back up and out the ramp, so it would be stuck there and not allowed to do repairs in the parkade.

Finally got time and space to work on the timing belt, and pulled the oil pump to find it all chewed up, NAPA wants $250-$300! $14 at pick a part, off to the yard. Is there A rebuild kit?

I'm wanting to go wheelin' I live in Abbotsford BC just minutes from the WA border. Can I join? I have a 92 loyale, and an 86 GL coupe. The loyale is stock right now, I have been collecting parts. Parts I have; dual range trans and matching diff. 6 lug wheels 28" tires 2" BOSS lift I messed my back up in a car wreck past summer, have a difficult time with heavy objects. My loyale has a bad short block, i did the head gaskets, but the block is bad and can't get proper tourque on the head bolts, still runs on 2 cyl. JB weld held the block together for over a year! Crack that leaked coolant. So knowledge wise, and skills I'm capable, but physically I need a bit of help.

NAPA will have a set of timingbelts(no tensioners) and an oil pump hoising seal for $50 CDN in by closing today, sweet

I'm thinking timing belt? Now I have 2 dead soobes parked, condo comittee won't be liking me.

Today I killed it! Well downshifting quickly while going uphill because I got cut off. Then at the top of the hill, 0 rpm. Just dead. Tried to turn over but, very rough balance, out of phase?

I was exploring an option like this, using racing brake line lockers. Search forums for" solenoid brake lock traction control"

I just called my local yard, they don't allow batteries in the yard. There goes that idea?

Could the radio and tape deck left speaker channel is fried from the previous owner running a dead speaker for years? I swapped my deck from my wagon in, and no problem, my wiring harness fix is solid, and the tape deck still has bad left channel with this deck. But this radio regularly squeals going in and out of stereo, any fix for this?

Does someone have details, or even better pictures of jumping the starter directly? Could it be done with a smaller battery easy to carry into the yard, motorcycle battery? Enough amps? I've seen it done along time ago on a GM, don't remember too well. What would be the required, step by step for and EA82?

I have compiled this list as a start, please add to it and keep it going. Keep in mind that this should be simple, quick and dirty, and using only tools hand carried into the yard. In most yards all fluids have been removed along with batteries and catalytic converters along with the Y-pipe and O2 sensor. Makes for determining a good engine more of a challenge than usual. Obvious signs of a good engine can be low milage, clean and well maintained looking, other major obvious faults like a bad transmission, or most obviously severe body damage. Look for the reason the car went to the yard, use your imagination and investigation skills. Some clues to look for. Coolant:*** If the coolant is clean and bright, it's an indication that the coolant system was good. If there is no antifreeze in the coolant and it is straight water, the engine was***likely overheated. Water pump:*** Make sure it turns freely. Some engines could have a seized water pump which likely resulted in overheating.*** Thermostat:*** Put the thermostat in a cup of boiling water to see if it opens, if not, again the engine has likely overheated.*** Oil: *** You can usually still find some left in the pan after removing the oil drain plug, or a little bit deposited on the dipstick. Make sure the oil appears to be normal and transparent without any milky deposits. Milky means coolant has mixed with the oil most likely from bad head-gasket. A valve cover should also be removed. If things inside appear to be clean or have a slight brown tint, it's a healthy engine. If everything is black and there are thick oil deposits, this indicates the engine had a lot of blowby and oil was not changed on regular intervals, resulting in sludge buildup.****** Testing Compression: *** Crank the engine a few times and check the pressure, on each cylinder.***If the key, battery and starter is intact this is a very easy task.*** However usually this is not the case.*** Cranking the engine by hand will not give accurate readings because the engine has to turn over fast enough to compensate for the leakage through the rings and valves.*** If a compression test gauge is unavailable, or the engine can't be turned over using the starter, the engine can be rotated by hand with a large ratchet to feel the resistance and pressure.*** It should sound like "ffoooK". If the engine turns too easy and no compression is heard, or not evenly spaced and only come from some cylinders, the engine is bad. Please add to the list or correct any faults.

I tried the aux audio input into the 5 pin on the back of the deck today, but got frustrated by the previous stereo hack job. So the radio and speakers have always been messed up since I got this thing, but more important mechanical stuff has been priority. The previous owner had a equalizer amplifier hacked into the wiring harness, and of course all fouled up with the common ground. It was wired really good, hard to take apart, just all wrong. Even had a plastic sub with only one channel hooked up. So I ripped it all out, cut out the crap in the harness and rewired and shrink tubed the whole deal. Nice and clean and back to subaru. Only one out of 4 speakers not working, better than before. never got the audio aux to sound any good though, too much noise. How about the crackle when turning knobs, I tried to clean out the contacts inside, but too hard to get to, I just ended up spilling acetone all over the freshly cleaned knobs and melted them a bit. Fixin old stuff never goes easy or as planned.

Thanks for the info, I dug a little into the threads, decided not to drive until fixed. I swapped the alternator with the one in my wagon. Problem solved! voltage normal, tach not jumping, engine not missing. Runs great, and sounds pretty good with the hole in the muffler:) As for the leaky windshield, I have underground heated parking, so no big deal for now.

Yes, voltage is going way up, just didn't notice it up there in the corner of the panel. I'll double check under the hood with a volt meter, How critical is it that the voltage regulator be replaced right away? Or do I have some time? Or can it damage components?

I was out in the rain today, after parking in the garage I noticed fresh water dripping down from the firewall on the passenger side? Could that be from rust at the base of the windshield? Also was running rough in the humidity, tach jumping all over, is that the disty?

Thanks, thats a sweet offer. But too much hassle getting that across the border, and then also nowhere to store it